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obelixx


Latest posts by obelixx

Recording the weather in your garden

Posted: 27/09/2014 at 17:05

I used to have a wee weather station which recorded temps and rainfall and sent messgaes to my PC.  That was in autumn 2008.   January 6th 2009 we had -32C and the equipment died.    Got a simple min/max thermometer after that and it died the following winter at -25C.  Haven't bothered since.

When OH retires we're planning to move to a more shelterd garden with shorter winteres and then I'd like to start again and maybe even keep garden diary too - sowing, planting, cropping etc..

Peony sprouting - should I cover it up?

Posted: 27/09/2014 at 13:43

Peonies are fussy abut planting depth - too deep or too shallow an dthey won't flower so, as long as you planted it at the same depth t was before, leave well alone.   They are very hardy in my experience although they do take a while to warm up again after -25C.............

Clematis Cuttings

Posted: 26/09/2014 at 16:53

It should be OK for the winter but I would consider keeping it in a bigger pot for another year and protect it for another winter.    Transplant it next spring, planting it deep, covering at least the next leaf node as this will encourage more roots and shoots to form. 

When you do plant it out, plant it deep again for the same reasons.

Clematis Cuttings

Posted: 26/09/2014 at 15:57

Well done.  I would nurture it through the winter.  Pot it up into some decent compost and keep it sheltered for this winter.

Nettle jungle

Posted: 26/09/2014 at 15:56

The organic way is just to keep pulling them with as much root as possible whenever they appear.  They will eventually weaken and be less invasive and easier to deal with.   One consolation is that they indicate your soil is fertile and not too heavy and, if you dry them out first, they will make an excellent addition to you compost heap as they are full of nitrogen which promotes leaf growth.    You can also soak fresh nettles in buckets of water (covered for the smell) for a few weeks and then dilute the resulting brew 1 part to 10 of water and use it as a liquid feed.

The non organic way is to spray with glyphosate as this kills the plants down to the roots.  However with nettles and creeping buttercup and thistles and couch grass you will need repeated applications before they surrender.   Glyphsate is not selective so protect any plant you wish to keep before you spray the nettles.

Marking out a design

Posted: 25/09/2014 at 17:54

Use a hosepipe.  It won't wash away and, if you leave it in place for at least a week once you've viewed your design from all angles and are happy with it, it will leave a mark in the grass for you to work from when digging.

Magnesium sulfate/Epsom Salts

Posted: 25/09/2014 at 17:29

1 tbs/15ml of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon/5 litres of water and poured on the foliage using a watering can with a spray head.

Have you watered the laurel since you planted it?   It will take all winter for its roots to settle in and start spreading so don't go pulling it about.

Wrapping up my gunnera!

Posted: 25/09/2014 at 14:13

They're from Brazil and don't like frost so I would guess that in the Midlands you will need to do more than just wrap the leaves over the crown.   I had one a few years ago that was wiped out by a surprise -8C after surviving -25C the winter before when I had buried it in 3' of garden compost.   

I now have a new one which I am growing in a pot.  Each spring it gets a bigger pot and then spends the winter submerged in the greenhouse with fleece and cardboard over the top when it's set to get really cold.   Once the pot gets too big to move I shall plant it in the border and give it the 3' of compost treatment.   Yu might get away with rather les scompost but it will still appreciate a blanket of some sort.    

Tree surgeons not getting to root of problem!

Posted: 24/09/2014 at 08:04

I think you should certainly write a polite letter explaining your problem and asking about the lack of reply to your calls but I think you may find that root grinding just refers to the central root stump and not every root branch.

If, as I suspect, you do end up dealing with this root yourself, get yourself a pruning saw - Wolf system do a very good one and you can use different length handles.  Clear the soil from the sides and saw it into chunks you can prise out with a fork or spade.   Leave the rest to rot in the ground and provide food for beneficial critters.

expensive???

Posted: 23/09/2014 at 17:05

These products can only be applied a couple of times a year so their frequency of care is OK but you can probably buy the products yourself and sprinkle it on yourself either by hand or with a distributor.

Then you can spend a £100 or so on a scarifier machine which you run over your grass in spring and again in autumn to remove thatch and dead material from your grass.    You'll have an amazing lawn in a short time and tools you can use for years - all for less than the £240 annual service charge.

Discussions started by obelixx

GW 2015

Programme content discussion 
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Chelsea photos

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Hello Jro - and any other old friends

Catch up chat 
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Mare's tail

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Encouraging bats in our gardens

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Beechgrove this weekend

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Last Post: 12/04/2013 at 11:05

Weekend 22 March

Chat about plans for the weekend 
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Last Post: 24/03/2013 at 18:19

Good Morning - 21 March

Replies: 33    Views: 1835
Last Post: 22/03/2013 at 09:57

Choosing chillies

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Last Post: 23/02/2013 at 18:47

Hanging baskets and window boxes

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Last Post: 03/03/2013 at 18:12

New shed - any tips?

Replies: 24    Views: 10415
Last Post: 22/02/2015 at 15:50
11 threads returned