Obelixx


Latest posts by Obelixx

transplanting small Ceanothus

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 15:18

I have moved many shrubs in my time and don't know of any problems moving ceanothus as long as you do it well.


Water the plant liberally an hour or two before you want to move it and let it soak.  This will reduce root disturbance.  Dig it out with as much root ball as possible and plant it again immediately in a wel prepared hole.  This means making a new hole a bit deeper and wider than its root ball and with plenty of well-rotted garden compost and/or manure to improve nutrient levels and moisture retention.   


Scatter some bonemeal in the soil to encourage root growth and microrhizal fungae on the roots themselves to help set up symbiosis with soil organisms. Firm it gently and make sure it's at the same depth as before and not in a sump and then water thoroughly.


Autumns is the best time while theh soil is still warm enough for root growth and will allow the plant to re-establish before the big spring push to make new leaves and flowers.  If it's the evergreen form, water in dry spells after moving and until temps dip below 10C.   

Im Gay

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 14:48

We'll be happy to welcome you and advise on what to plant to cheer you up and bring you joy but the only orientation that makes a difference to us is the best aspect for your plants to do well.

Lovely neighbours

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 12:04

When we bought this place there was a delay between signing the contracts and moving in.   I sent our new neighbours - gendarme and family with 3 horses and cattle farmers with 500 head - a letter telling them who we were and when we thought we'd be moving in and saying we'd be there in between for a week of painting and strimming and assuring them we were used to country life and not about to throw city dweller wobblies about livestock and farm noises.


They were delighted and in the painting week the farmers invited us for "apéro" - home made Pineau!! so no cutting in edges afterwards - and we've invited both sides to dinner and been back since we arrived.   Lots of friendly chat and info when we pass too.    Everybody happy.

Last edited: 03 October 2017 12:04:38

Grit for Mediterranean Garden

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 11:57

Builders' grit and gravel tends to be full of sandy bits so maybe give it a rinse before spreading it or else just give it a good wash once spread.    Check it hasn't got lime too if the plants you've used won't like it.  There will be various grades available to give the effect you desire.


Have you tried the beach for driftwood?   Or maybe ask a local tree surgeon if they can help.

Dog proofing a new beech hedge

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 11:53

Chicken wire and posts along the length.   Various widths available so easy to find one for the height you need.  Depending on how sturdy you make the posts it can stay there and the beech will send stems thru it or you can remove it once the beech hedge has thickened.

Saffron

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 11:49

Interesting about the heat treatment.   Muddyfork doesn't say he uses special techniques.  Maybe if you grow it in a trough or raised bed where the soil is warmer and well drained that would answer your needs.  I can't honestly see a whole, ancient industry digging up and heating the bulbs each year for agricultural purposes pre-industrial age.

What is the best Clematis to grow up a Yew

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 11:39

Most perennial plants are best planted in autumn while the soil is still warm and theer's moisture.  Add a bit of bonemeal to the soil and maybe sprinkle some microrhizal fungae directly on the roots to help it off to a good start.


I grew this one in my last garden and loved it

What is the best Clematis to grow up a Yew

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 11:07

If you want twice a year it needs pruning in between.


If you go for a viticella or other group 3 you'll get flowers most of the summer and can just prune it all to the base every March or even late autumn if you want to remove the dead and dormant stems once the leaves drop.


i suggest Huldine which, tho it may take a year or two to get its feet down and establish, will be vigorous enough to grow thru or over tall yews and the flowers - white with a vein of purple on teh back - will be perfect for your colour scheme.


http://www.clematis.hull.ac.uk/new-clemdetail.cfm?dbkey=20 


You'll need to make it a decent, deep planting hole and enrich te soil with plenty r moisture retentive well-rotted manure and garden compost and then water and feed it well to establish it.   Bury it a few inches lower than it was in its pot and tease out its roots gently to encourage them to seek nutrients and extra flwoering stems to grow.   Feed generously with clematis food every spring and give occasional liquid feeds of rose or tomato food through till mid summer. 


Clematis are hungry, thirsty plants so make sure there is some space between them and the yews to reduce competition form the yew.

What's the difference?

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 10:39

I think mulching implies a thick layer of well-rotted compost or manure which is worked into the soil over winter by natural activity from worms and other soil organisms.   This would be the no-dig type and brilliant for improving fertility in veg plots and soil structure on clay or sand.


The other kind of mulch is the weed suppressing layers of chipped bark, gravel or pebbles or slate chippings.


I think that means your comfrey is surface composting.

I have become that person...

Posted: 03/10/2017 at 10:35

If it does turn out to be allowable, you need to be canny with plants.  A Kiftsgate rose or Rambling Ractor or Wedding Day would have the vigour to cover it fairly quickly and you could train a viticella clematis or 3 up them to extend cover and colour.  Alternatvely, 2 or 3 of the newer repeat rambler roses and clamtis alpinas for early flowers.

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