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obelixx


Latest posts by obelixx

Bulbs, bulbs and more bulbs!

Posted: 30/09/2014 at 08:54

I would keep it simple and do no more than 3 layers of bulbs that succeed each other in flowering times eg tall tulips in the bottom as they require the deepest planting depth and will flower in April/May, then daffs for March and crocuses for February.

Bluebells are best naturalised in a woodland corner under trees or shrubs.   Snowdrops don't like to dry out so are also best in the ground where they will also spread themselves.   I find hyacinths have such a strong perfume they are best in a pot by themselves so they can be brought into prominence when in flower and moved out of the way when they go over.

I like alliums best coming up through perennials such as hardy geraniums and they are good plants to put near roses as they help deter greenfly.

anyone here ever coppiced a starndard tree successfully?

Posted: 30/09/2014 at 08:25

I had a beautiful parrotia persica (Persian Ironwood) which was 12 years old and whose crown I had lifted so I could see the form and bark of its stems.  It was cut down last summer by a lightening strike so I had to cut it right at the base.    It has resprouted and will make a good multi stemmed shrub.

I should have thought an amelanchier would do the same but be sure to cut it when there are no frosts forecast so the wound can heal well and before the sap starts rising in late Jan/early Feb.  

Reviving a Camelia

Posted: 30/09/2014 at 08:16

It's the calcium content in tap water that is bad for ericaceous plants, not the other chemcals so leaving it to stand will not help.  However you can buy sequestered iron in good garden centres and add that to water to help plants take up the iron they need.

Camellias, rhodos and azaleas need plentiful water in late summer and autumn to ripen their flower buds for spring.   Soak the root ball in water to make it easier to pull out all those weeds then pot up in a bigger pot, if possible, and use good ericaceous compost.   Put out a container to collect rain water for it if you can.

Yellow leaves (chlorosis) on green plants can be caused by lack of nutrients, lack of iron and also lack of magnesium.   If they persist after all the TLC, use a solution of 1 tbs of Epsom salts dissolved in a gallon of water and spray it over the foliage next spring.   Repeat as necessary with this and any other plant with similar problems.

Fuchsia

Posted: 30/09/2014 at 08:08

That's what I do for hardy fuchsias too as leaving the tops on helps protect the crown from frosts and then you prune back to healthy buds in spring after the worst of the frosts.    I would also mulch the crown with some well rotted garden compost or spent potting compost as further protection and take a few cuttings as insurance.

For tender fuchsias, they need lifting soon and taking into shelter.   I would also take cuttings as insurance.

Talkback: How to lift and divide hostas

Posted: 29/09/2014 at 19:21

They are best divided in spring as indicated in previous posts but if you must do them now, you need to keep the pots well sheltered so they don't freeze over winter or the roots may fail.

Gardeners' Logic???

Posted: 28/09/2014 at 16:15

My OH doesn't understand that logic either but, since I told him how expensive our compost heaps are after he'd done yet another blitz weeding of a border instead of just selecting the weeds, he does at least see the point of investing in decent compost and keeping the greenhouse in order.

My other recent trick is to make him come to plant fairs and pay for the plants so he'll think twice about the compost heap and I can buy more plants with the house-keeping thus saved when he isn't looking.   That means my shopping bag always has a bag of bulbs at the mo as I stock up on alliums and nectorascordums on display at the supermarket.

Late perennials for the white garden

Posted: 28/09/2014 at 10:10

White physostegia, white chelone, white clematis flammula (scented), white agapanthus (needs winter protection), white flowered hostas, white Michaelmas daisies, white phlox, white roses, white shrubby potentilla, still some flowers left on lysimachia clethroides alba..

Abbreviations

Posted: 28/09/2014 at 10:04

OP - original poster

OAP - old age person aka silver surfer and grey pounds as we seem to have more disposable income than belaguered youf.

OH - other half - male

BH - better half - female

HRT - horticultural retail therapy

LOL - laugh out loud unless you're a PM who thinks it means lots of love.

IMO - in my opinion

IMHO - in my humble opinion.   Generally used by the least humble.

TTFN

Recording the weather in your garden

Posted: 27/09/2014 at 17:05

I used to have a wee weather station which recorded temps and rainfall and sent messgaes to my PC.  That was in autumn 2008.   January 6th 2009 we had -32C and the equipment died.    Got a simple min/max thermometer after that and it died the following winter at -25C.  Haven't bothered since.

When OH retires we're planning to move to a more shelterd garden with shorter winteres and then I'd like to start again and maybe even keep garden diary too - sowing, planting, cropping etc..

Peony sprouting - should I cover it up?

Posted: 27/09/2014 at 13:43

Peonies are fussy abut planting depth - too deep or too shallow an dthey won't flower so, as long as you planted it at the same depth t was before, leave well alone.   They are very hardy in my experience although they do take a while to warm up again after -25C.............

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10 threads returned