Latest posts by Obelixx

Yew bare root planting, autumn of spring?

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 17:38

No, the roots grow thru winter which means they can get themselves well established before they have to meet the demands of a waking tree in spring when spa starts to rise and all that new growth happens.

simple Questions

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 17:32

Ashley's herb question has been answered on another thread.  He - or she - should read it and then organise the info in a way easily accessible to him or her.

As for hydrangea paniculata - not all have yellow flowers.  Most have white flowers, possibly with a green tinge, and then fade to pink as they age.  The important thing about the paniculata hydrangeas is that they are better for exposed gardens as they flower on new wood so it doesn't matter if they get frosted and stems die back.  If that happens to the mopheads and lace caps you get now flowers.

The important thing to know about bellis perennis is that, if happy, it will self sow with gay abandon and become a thug.

Time for Ashley to start reading all this stuff with greater concentration and to start memorising.

I'm with Philippa.  No more for me.


Last edited: 20 September 2017 17:33:07

Prehistoric Weed

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 17:26

Dove - I had alkaline loam soil and a bit of neutral clay at the fornt and that's where I had all the mares' tail stuff.   My gardening guru friend swore by cardboard for soil conditioning and weed weakening tho I never tried it on this weed as it was in the ornamental beds which were full of plants.   

However, one of the two beds worst affected did have weed membrane on it through which I planted a range of ornamental grasses, hostas, herbaceous clems and a mix or perennials.  They loved it so much I had to remove the membrane to dig them up and divide and re-plant.   Only after I'd done all that and planted roses and clems and hardy geraniums did the mares' tail start appearing.  I think it was in the clay soil which was imported from the next village.

Dividing geraniums

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 13:38

I cut it back.  Less stress on the plants as they try and re-establish their roots.

Prehistoric Weed

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 13:37

The roots of this thing go metres deep and are brittle so break easily and each bit can become a plant.

Digging over once, and thoroughly, will certainly help you remove major weed roots but, if you plan to be chemical free, the best course of action is simply to keep pulling it up or hoeing it off as you see it.   Do not compost it as it will propagate in the heap but you can make a fertiliser from it by soaking in a covered bucket of water for a few weeks and then diluting the resulting pongy liquid to feed plants.

In future, you should be able to do it without digging as it's better for soil structure and the friendly micro-organisms.  In autumn, cover bare spoil with sheets of cardboard or even thick layers of newspaper and hold this down with layers of well rotted manure and compost.   Where you have permanent plants such as fruiting shrubs, mulch generously.   The worms will work all this into the soil over winter and you will end up with a good texture for working, weeding and planting and happy plants feeding on fertile soil and able to get their roots down for moisture.

Raspberries come in two group - early and late fruiting.  The former fruits on new stems produced the previous year and it sounds like you have those.  Remove all the old, fruited stems at the base and then tie in the new ones to supports.  Remove any excess or unruly plants.   The late fruiting varieties can be cut back hard to about 9" in spring and will then grow new stems which fruit later in summer and early autumn.

The RHS offers this advice - https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/fruit/raspberries 

Allotment diary.

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 12:22

Scrogging's right.  If you have clay, just fork up great lumps of it to expose more surface area to frosts but do also chuck on some manure.  The worms will work it in over winter and you can add more in spring and every autumn thereafter.  Let the worms do the digging.

If it's cold enough, some pests will be killed but, in my experience, slugs just burrow deeper to get down below frozen layers.  We had severe frosts of -15C and worse nearly every winter in our Belgian garden and it never affected slug populations.  They were dealt with by scatterings of wildlife friendly pellets around susceptible plants form Valentine's Day onwards - or the Ides of March in cold years.  Easy dates to remember.

Camera Talk - part 2

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 11:19

Beautiful ceilings Busy and great photos of the ruins too.

I don't pay for my Photobucket use but I do have space limits so have deleted a lot of the older albums of my Belgian garden and also friends' gardens in Belgium to make way for new ones..  I do have the originals stored on an external disk but use photobucket for sharing.   Internet slow here too but they are gradually unrolling fibre optics in the Vendée.  Being rural and private we'll be very low down on the list.  I expect the Dordogne will be upgraded too but that, like me, you'll be low priority unless you have some businesses nearby.

simple Questions

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 11:05

Definitely lining up to be a candidate for the Ignore corner.

Garden visits - Asphodèle group, Vendée

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 11:04

What did you think of the jungle art?

Passiflora caerulea yellowing leaves and dropping?

Posted: 20/09/2017 at 11:03

This plant is generally deciduous tho sometimes partly evergreen in mild areas so leaf fall is normal and evergreens lose a few leaves all year round anyway as they age but are replaced by new ones.

Make sure you plant is sheltered from cold winds and heavy frosts.  Keep the compost moist but well-drained and, next spring, either give it a bigger pot or freshen up the top couple of inches of compost in its existing pot and give it a generous handful of slow release tomato food and then weekly feeds of liquid rose or tomato feed. 

Discussions started by Obelixx

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1 to 15 of 36 threads