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Latest posts by obelixx


Posted: 18/04/2015 at 17:42

I have used both as a windbreak to protect newly planted shrubs till they established.  Both types rotted far too easily and broke in strong winds and got tatty very quickly.   I would not advise them as a permanent screen.

I would suggest instead that you attach 2' wide trellis panels horizontally to the top of the existing fence or else erect 6' high panels on the inside of the fence, using new posts if necessary.  trellis can be painted to make a feature of it or else you can train climbing plants up it for further privacy and added interest.

Local DIY stores and maybe timber yards will stock it so shop around for best prices and quality.


Latin for Mint

Posted: 18/04/2015 at 17:37

Mentha spicata is the common mint but there are loads of others - basil mint, Moroccan mint, ginger mint, apple mint, chocolate mint and so on.   I once had about 8 different types in tubs but they proved not to be hardy enough for my winters so I just have basil, Moroccan and ginger mint left and take the tubs into shelter for winter.

Topiary Tips

Posted: 18/04/2015 at 17:33

I just do plain hedges but I fancy having a go at a pair of simple spirals one day.  Here's what the RHS advises on how and when to prune and shape - 

This might help too - 

Inspiration needed - small trees for large half cider barrels

Posted: 18/04/2015 at 17:29

Watch the Beechgrove repeat on Sunday morning BBC2 to see what Chris Beardshaw does with some fruit trees kept small by regular root pruning and t'other chappy planting fruit trees on dwarf rootstocks.

You could plant your cider barrels with fruit trees such as apples, pears, cherries selected to cross pollinate each other and have blossom and foliage and fruit over 3 seasons.   Under plant with hardy cyclamen to extend the interest through winter and early spring.




Posted: 18/04/2015 at 12:57

An alternative would be to take out a third to a half of the stems now so you keep the shape and the new leaves can feed the plant but you'll provoke the plant into making new shoots which will give you stem colour next winter till you can do a full prune.

Whichever you do, give it some blood, fish and bone lightly forked in around its roots to encourage it.


Posted: 18/04/2015 at 12:56

An alternative would be to take out a third to a half of the stems now so you keep the shape and the new leaves can feed the plant but you'll provoke the plant into making new shoots which will give you stem colour next winter till you can do a full prune.

Sowing Grass Seed

Posted: 17/04/2015 at 14:34

I think those things are very useful for spreading lawn treatments in spring and autumn but for seed spreading all you need is your hand.  Prepare your lawn by first doing any weed, moss and feed treatment and leave it to work according to the instructions.  Cut then scarify and remove loose thatch.

Rake any bare patches to loosen the soil so seeds can send down roots more easily.  Fill your fist with seed and broadcast whilst walking up and down the lawn in even rows to get a good spread.

Here's advice from the RHS on reseeding lawns including a tip on using pre-germinated seed -


How to prune a climbing rose that's one year old

Posted: 17/04/2015 at 12:57

If you can tie in the two long shoots ti lie as horizontally, or at least diagionally, as possible, you will encourage sap and nutrients to flow to them to increase production of new stems and flowering buds.

Removing the twiggiest growth at the centre should also encourage stronger growth in the remaining stems and increase future flower power.  Give it a feed of special rose fertiliser too.


Posted: 16/04/2015 at 22:00

I would dig them out and plant them in deep pots so their roots can run.  If they're big enough, plant them a couple of inches deeper than they were as this encourages the formation of extra shoots which will bear more flowers.   Grow them on till they're big enough to cope in the hurly burly of life in the border with competition, wind, rain and so on.

Use the best quality compost and add some proprietary clematis feed as these plants are very hungry and need lots of building up to get the best flowering display.   Keep them watered but not drowning and give them occasional liquid feeds of tomato or rose food.  

When you do finally plant them in the border, bury them a few inches deeper than they were in the pot to encourage more new shoots - also helps protect against clematis wilt .  They can take a year or two to get going once planted out and will need annual spring top ups of clematis food but are worth the wait and the bother.   Use organic slug pellets to protect the juicy new shoots in spring as slugs love them.

Discussions started by obelixx


Horticultural Retail Therapy 
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Horticultural Retail Therapy 
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Phuopsis stylosa aka Crosswort

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Lawn care after moles

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Plant id for Obxx

Who knows what this is please? 
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GW 2015

Programme content discussion 
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Last Post: 16/03/2015 at 18:44

Chelsea photos

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Last Post: 02/06/2014 at 09:30

Hello Jro - and any other old friends

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Last Post: 27/05/2013 at 09:18

Mare's tail

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Encouraging bats in our gardens

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Last Post: 26/04/2013 at 21:35

Beechgrove this weekend

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Last Post: 12/04/2013 at 11:05

Weekend 22 March

Chat about plans for the weekend 
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Last Post: 24/03/2013 at 18:19

Good Morning - 21 March

Replies: 33    Views: 2144
Last Post: 22/03/2013 at 09:57

Choosing chillies

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Hanging baskets and window boxes

Replies: 32    Views: 3181
Last Post: 03/03/2013 at 18:12
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