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Latest posts by obelixx

Chelsea photos

Posted: 02/06/2014 at 09:30

My pleasure Daisy.  I take the photos to help me remember because sometimes it's like being in an art gallery where visual saturation is reached after about the 10th picture.

This year in particular was striking for the similarity of planting material but also the different ways they were used and I have whole beds to renovate so the photos are a handy reference point.

It was also very different from last year - Photos taken from a wheelchair (foot surgery) so not so many and fewer angles.



Hungry roses?

Posted: 01/06/2014 at 15:35

It's possible the rain has leached the goodies out of the soil and in any case, there's no harm in giving them a tonic of liquid tomato food which should help promote formation of new flowers.  

I would also give them a mulch of well rotted garden compost or manure as this will increase activity in beneficial organisms which will work in the soil around the roots of your roses and help release nutrients.   Regular mulching of all your beds will help break down the clay and release its goodness to all your plants.

geum mrs bradshaw

Posted: 01/06/2014 at 14:11

Yes, but just the flowering stems. 


Posted: 01/06/2014 at 12:25

Chinese leaves such as pak choi are actually best sown in July or later or they bolt so you have plenty of time to get some decent crops from your plot.

Hardy winter vegetables such as leeks, kale, sprouts, spring greens, purple sprouting broccoli are also best sown in June/July and you can also sow chard for an autumn crop.  If the winter's not too cold, they'll stand for months and provide stems and leaves to eat.

Do keep an eye out for a rhubarb plant but be prepared to be patient as they do need to establish for a year so they can grow strong roots before you start harvesting the stems.    Remember that cutting stems removes the leaves which are their food factory.   



geum mrs bradshaw

Posted: 01/06/2014 at 12:15

Cut back the flower stems and feed it.  Liquid tomato fertiliser is good.  This will help the roots grow stronger to produce a better plant next year and should also encourage a second flush of flowers later this summer.   Once the plant is big enough, you can think about lifting and dividing it in spring to make more free plants.

Never Give Up

Posted: 01/06/2014 at 09:51

There's no Gulf Stream effect here so winters are colder and summers can be hotter tho we do get lots of rain.   The local horticultural college sites include one called La Sibérie.  Now I know why as we can get colder than the Ardennes which is fine when there's a blanket of snow to protect the plants but devastating when there isn't.  I'm learning which plants are tough and which not to bother with any more.

OH cut off all the damaged stems of the rhubarb last weekend leaving just the crowns.   It's been warm and sunny for a day or so and there are now new shoots are appearing so the plants will survive but I won't be making rhubarb chutney this year as we need to let the plants recover and OH will nab any stems I do let him pick for his puds.

Never Give Up

Posted: 31/05/2014 at 07:44

Forester - central Belgium about 30 miles South of Brussels in what has turned out to be a site exposed to extremes of weather.

Chelsea wish list

Posted: 30/05/2014 at 23:04

I've sown some achusa this year and the babies survived the hailstorm which wiped out so many other things.  I'll be concentrating on whites and rich reds next year.

Chelsea wish list

Posted: 30/05/2014 at 16:44


These are the white plantings I liked - Hilliers stand above and the topiarist garden below:-



Blue foliage

Posted: 30/05/2014 at 16:39

Another blue carex - and they have another called trifida.

I Wonder if they're as hardy as their bronze cousins cos if so, they'll do for me.

Discussions started by obelixx

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