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Latest posts by obelixx

Chlorotic skimmia and peris

Posted: 07/09/2014 at 15:14

Foranyone wondering, mix 15ml of Epsom salts in 5 litres of water and sprinkle generously over the foliage using a fine rose on your watering can.

Chlorotic skimmia and peris

Posted: 07/09/2014 at 14:16

Epsom salts only treat magnesium deficiency which is one of the causes of chlorotic leaves.    Sequestered or chelated iron products will rectify the anaemia that also causes chlorotic leaves but, as stated above by others, you need rain wtare as well as the correct soil in bordres or the correct compost and a large enough contaniner if you must grow in pots as well as the right aspect and exposure to sun or drying winds or these plants will suffer.

Spindle Tree

Posted: 04/09/2014 at 16:29

Is anyone spraying pesticides near you?   That may be having an unforeseen effect on your insect population.

Spindle Tree

Posted: 04/09/2014 at 14:27

I like the fruits but for me the foliage is more important as it is visble at a  distance and contrasts well with other autumn foliage with more golden tints.

As MM says you need to attract more pollinator insects to your garden so spring bulbs such as daffs and crocuses and flowers such as hellebores, wood anemones, forget-me-nots, pulmonarias and early flowering geraniums such as phaeum and macrorhizum are the way to go.

Shabby Chic Anyone?

Posted: 04/09/2014 at 10:53

HI BM.  There's a glitch somewhere.  I haven't been able to see page 21 all week until this morning and now I can't see the first 20 so I can't see the photo.  If you Google the common name you should find something on the web that will help.

With any luck I'll get to a brocante being held in a neigbouring village on Sunday but, as I've said before, I really should be getting on with what I already have - chairs to paint and stencil and seats to re-cover, occasional tables to spruce up, other bits of furniture to revive not to mention my cast iron garden chairs that need a coat of Hammerite before next spring and their backs and seats repaired and painted and the kitchen to decorate.............

Shabby Chic Anyone?

Posted: 04/09/2014 at 09:03

The black one is ophiopogon planescapus nigrescens and is also called black lily turf.  It isn't a grass but looks like one till it flowers.

The Japanese grass is imperata cylindrica Red Baron.  

Good combination - and I like that privacy screen colour too..

I've recently got back from hols in France where we went to just one "vide greniers" market and found nothing at all of interest.   Bit disappointing.  Hols were good though.


Can I propagate wisteria and vines by layering?

Posted: 04/09/2014 at 08:55

Yes.  The RHS says layering is the best method for amateur gardeners.  Scroll down this info to propagation -

II'm planning to have a go with mine and  expect it would work with vines too but you could also check the RHS site.

Hydrangea help!

Posted: 03/09/2014 at 15:35

I have severe winters so can only grow the paniculata forms as the mophead stems get frozen to death every winter so I get new green stems but no flowers.   Ttey are recent acquisitions but so good I now have 5 of them doing well.   Might get some more once I've cleared the next bed of weeds - been out of action a while for foot surgery and the weeds have been taking advantage.  

Hydrangea help!

Posted: 03/09/2014 at 15:17

It dépends on what kind of hydrangea they are.  If they are the usual mophead/lace cap types they will produce next year's flowers on old wood so you need to remove the dead flower heads once spent but taking care not to spoil any bud forming behind them.   Flower colour will depend a lot on teh type of soil you have - blue for acid soil and pink for alkaline.  There are feeds you can buy in garden centres to enourage the blue flowers.  Follow the instructions on the pack.

If they are the paniculata forms, they flower on new wood so can be left now as they are and then pruned back to a pair of buds on each stem next spring.   How high or low these buds are will depend on teh severity of the winter which may kill off the ends of stems and also your choice as to teh eventual size you want the shrub to attain each year.

There is also a quercifolia form but you'll have to Google those or wait for someone else to reply.

Either type may appreciate a feed of bonemeal forked in around their roots in autumn as this helps root formation over winter when the rest of the plant is dormant.   Both types wil appreciate a generous mulch in autumn and again in spring with a dollop of either pelleted chicken manure or blod, fish and bone.   For extra flower power you can also give them a liquid feed of rose or tomato food.

When is the best time to plant out the varying bulbs?

Posted: 02/09/2014 at 17:29

Small bulbs need to be planted straight away to avoid them dehydrating and then failing to grow.  It's often a good idea to soak them in cold water for at least an hour before planting, especially snowdrops and snake's head fritillaries.   

Daffodils start putting out new roots as early as August so need to be planted as soon as you but them to get the best results.    I would also get alliums in as soon as possible as they will produce more and better roots in warmer soil.

The advice is always to plant tulips in November in order to avoid fire blight but a lot depends on what kind of tulip you've bought and when the first heavy frosts start to come in your garden.  I reckon it's OK to start in mid October but have also planted in December.

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12 threads returned