Latest posts by Palaisglide

Lawn is a mess please help

Posted: 23/03/2017 at 16:31

Tom, depends on the size of the lawn. You can use it as if scattering seed by hand remember with those treatments less is better, to much you can burn the lawn, also watering in well essential or burning occurs. If you have a big lawn then a small push along spreader will do the job providing  you do not go over the same bit twice, just take care when spreading.

Any good garden shop or centre will sell good feed and weed under various names, it is all basically the same formula probably packed by one large packer in named boxes, when I worked for ICI you would see the same mix go in different name bags, people would swear by a brand we knew they were the same.

You will have a better lawn by summer as the work pays off, the garden is up to you. I tell people to buy some larger pots fill them with plants or bedding and group them where the garden looks bare, it cheers you and the garden up, one good flowering plant can make a difference, plus pots can be moved around.


Lawn is a mess please help

Posted: 23/03/2017 at 15:13

Tom, we would normally scarify in Autumn, as yours needs some TLC give the first dusting of feed and weed a chance to do its job on the weeds then scarify. Getting the lawn back into trim will take time it is not a short term fix. The grass like us needs some Spring sunshine to boost it, let the roots get a firm grip again. Your first cut would be with the blades well up, the more leaf the more goodness it will get. Be patient, nothing happens fast in gardening, after years of gardening you get a steady but sure way of working, we do work today for next year or the year after so donot expect instant miracles.


Lawn is a mess please help

Posted: 23/03/2017 at 15:01

Hogweed is right leave it alone until the grass starts to grow again then put down feed and weed as per instructions on the box. WATER it in well, I use it when rain is expected. Leave for six eight weeks, scarify and then put down a second dusting of weed and feed. Keep cutting the grass never shorter than one inch, wait a few days after cutting before dusting with the weed and feed. In Autumn Aerate the grass either with a garden fork pushed into the grass, or hire an aerator for a day. Mix some washed sand and compost and throw shovel fulls across the lawn, casting we called it. With a stiff brush sweep the compost mix into the aerating holes, this opens the sward for better drainage. Leave a week and then put down winter feed and weed, slow release, leave it until spring, I never walk on the lawns when they are wet.


Help me fix my lawn

Posted: 21/03/2017 at 15:40

Obelixx, now duck. I gave exactly the same advice on another post and got jumped on we apparently are wrong, I suppose our combined gardening years experience is now old hat and ready to be binned. Lawns are hard work and high maintenance, people have the impression they can put a lawn down sit back and let it get on with it. I have only to walk out of my door onto the field down to the beck to see what happens when the Parks department stop maintaining land, the best weed garden in the area. Where possible I do not use chemical but some times it is a must, if it gives me a nice lawn then I will use it with care and not more than it needs.

I shiver when I see some of the pictures but the one here is easily saved and improved if they follow your advice.


How do I rejuvenate a lawn?

Posted: 21/03/2017 at 12:34

Paul you work as you find, over many years of gardening always with at least one patch of lawn, I now have two, I had to resort to chemical in that I use Feed and Weed. Living on the edge of farmland and with surrounding lawns wick with Dandelion Daisy and such which some people like, the only way to keep it clear was that and it does year on year. I remember coming home from work once and my Wife asking what the nice yellow plants were right at the back of the garden, "what yellow flowers" so went to look, it was Rape, the birds dropped the seed and I had missed it. I never use chemical on the borders or elsewhere but if my lawns were riddled with weed they would come up and as some have done gravel it and park the cars on it. The lush sward I see at some garden visits, never a weed in site tell me the story, I once asked the Gardener at a house we were at well known in the NE what he used, got the full lecture on feed and weed and how to use it, I must have looked like a learner. As I said we find out what works for us and that is my way of gardening, sorry to any greens although I do my bit by taking my holidays in the Uk and not flying, others may fly yet not use feed and weed well we are all different.



Posted: 21/03/2017 at 10:12

Logan that is the problem with you young whippersnappers, all go. I expect you want a bouncy castle and a Big Mac? well you are getting Salad and Carrot cake so there.

Many Happy returns.


How do I rejuvenate a lawn?

Posted: 21/03/2017 at 10:01

Edd I would agree to everything you say above only years of working my lawns and bowling green lawns taught me sometimes chemical is the only way. The Lawn over the road from me is chemical free and a riot of Dandelion and Daisy every year plus other nasties they seed and cross the road to me on the easterly winds. I see the odd weed start at the edge of my lawn and if I did not knock them back they would spread like wildfire. We always had a patch of lawn at the bowling green for repair, if we had a weed on the green we cut it out with a small cutter then replaced with a piece cut from the spare but come Autumn when we did the main repair and maintenance chemical had to be used.

The choice is ours you can have a lawn or a meadow and most around me are the latter, they boast they do not use chemical then ask me how I keep my lawns so nice, I tell them, you pay's your money you take your choice. I grew up in a time when everything by todays standards was organic, yes well my Dad a gardener supreme used bordeaux mixture, soap sprays, slaked lime and other methods used by most people who had to feed the Family from the garden. If you did not you could go hungry as many did, no supermarkets then with berries from Mexico Potato's from Egypt and Cyprus or Salad from Spain. We need to have some sense about what we do as against what our ideals are.

I use feed and weed after the first cut now done, then six weeks later, then after scarifying and aerating a winter feed and weed then leave it never walking on it when wet that compacts the lawn if I need to go on it then I use a board to stand on, spread the load. We all have our own way of doing things Edd.


Renovating old, soggy lawn

Posted: 20/03/2017 at 15:10

Rosy, it depends on how much old grass to remove, if you can manage it cut the grass with the spade into square sods around a foot square to eighteen inches, easy to handle, lift one edge with the spade then lowering the spade down push through under the sod, this will cut through the sod just below root level that should give you a sod about an inch and a half thick, doing it that way makes it easy to stack in a corner for a lovely loam is a year os so. Time and Patience is much needed in gardening. If there is a lot then hire a cutter for a day, this will cut the grass sod at the correct level and the better ones roll it up, normally though they cut the lawn into strips and you chop it into lengths with a spade to stack them away.

Looking again at the pictures if that is a ditch the water runs away from then I would laid some large Gravel in the base for drainage, you could use any hardcore broken brick or what ever you have, it definitely needs raising a bit and take the opportunity to mix in plenty of grit and washed sand to the layer you use to raise the area this will give better drainage. The top layer will be compost or topsoil again mix in some washed sand. I never walk on my lawn in winter if it is a must I use a board to stand on, compaction is something you do not need.

Hope this helps, I can breathe again now you know the danger of ponds.


Renovating old, soggy lawn

Posted: 20/03/2017 at 13:59

WHOA UP Rosy, A five year old child and ponds do not go together. A child died a couple of years back in three inches of water, they had fallen face forward into it after mother took a phone call. You need to heavy net the pond or fence it securely my way as I did with the Grandchildren was fill it in and bedding plant it, better safe than sorry. Children and water do not mix.

A medium wear grass is what you need, the whole class will not be around every day. You can make the lawn around the pond or ponds I can see, one of them looks very dangerous for children, if they fell in you would not see them.

Why not make over the whole as a lawn then at some future date replace the pond. You could get rid of the existing ponds and Put a half barrel pond in with water plants and a wire mesh fitted to the rim of the barrel the frogs would came back to that. That area needs raising in any case.

I would say to all new gardeners, gardens can be dangerous places for children, the tools we use the chemicals we use I try to be none chemical although some is a must, lawns need feed and weed all my years gardening taught me that, a rethink is needed Rosy this time with a five year old or at times several, inquisitive adventurous little mites and you cannot keep an eye on them every minute of the time.


Renovating old, soggy lawn

Posted: 20/03/2017 at 11:53

Rosy, if it were me I would move, Joking aside it is a big job, you need to treat it as a long term project and do the work in sections you can manage in the spare time you may have remembering the good old British weather. Make sketches and a plan (a guide, plans can and do alter). Decide which small section you want to work on first, say a place to sit and contemplate the next move and where you can put down some nice pots of flowers to give you heart for the work ahead. The pond needs to be left as you will get Tadpoles then small frogs, one day you will look in the pond they will be gone, they always come back to the same pond the next year and very interesting to watch as well. So the pond renovation after wild life vanishes.

The lawn the biggest job and depends on funds available. You need remove all the grass, stack it upside down in a dark corner and leave for a couple of years you will have the best potting compost ever. It now needs to be dug over, this I would  double dig adding in a good compost grit and washed sand as you go. Quite often there are local gardeners who would do this bit for you. For the lawn the best lawn would need around twelve to fifteen inches of topsoil added, once the pan has been broken up and drainage added six to eight inches would be OK, the lawn does need to be raised from what I see in the pictures. Now it is up to you seed or rolls, Garden Centres have reasonable grass rolls with a medium grass or order on line the type you want a soft does not take heavy wear Medium for Children and heavy duty for a football field in the garden dogs cats, keeping wild boar is not good for any grass.

To sow seed the top needs to be well raked all stone lumps of clay and any other bits taken off My last Lawn we riddled the soil added first. Rake it flat then do the gardeners shuffle, wear big flat boots and shuffle up and down the patch compacting it very slightly. Rake again with the back of the rake after checking levels, a long flat lath or plank moved along the patch will show high or low levels. Buy your seed from a good Garden centre read the packets it will tell you what it is best used for, light medium heavy use. then sow as the packet tells you adding a few extra hand fulls for the birds, WATER in and leave, I cut by hand for the first cut then the blades on the mower up for the next couple of cuts, my way is never cut below one inch long, scalping kills a lawn and you are not after a bowling green. Decide what you wish to do first and do it, trying to jump from job to job never works you end up with a complete building site, a bit at a time gives you something to look at and show you are getting there. Good Luck.


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