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Latest posts by Palaisglide

My tree is dying

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 15:21

Cannot see your photo's Stephanie my antivirus kicked in.
Red Spider mite do not like damp conditions although if there is good foliage cover they could be warm and snug inside. I washed them out of mine by hosing the foliage everyday for a while.
It does sound more like die back once that happens it takes a while to green up if ever it does. I would cut off a piece see if the main branch is dried out or still growing, check the brown foliage to see if there is anything on it, spider mite are very small.
Is it waterlogged at the root, has it shaken loose at the root with the wind. Scrape a bit of soil away from the root carefully and see if new root is growing or has it shrivelled. I would be in there prodding and poking trying to find the answer.
Your post is now back at the top, we could yet snare an expert with this one.


This Forum

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 13:28

"Oh dear" what a hooha, In my old persona I would ask for thirty push ups from you all then forget it.
Easter on its way, we will get back to gardening sometime, a good spade fork and Dutch hoe can get rid of a lot of frustration, a sit in the sun soaking up the vitamin C listening to the birds sing and the bees hum is what we all need, meanwhile I am making a cuppa the panacea for all ills.


My tree is dying

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 13:02

Stephanie2, you do not say whether it had roots or not, an old Christmas tree perhaps, also Pines normally grow on high or sloping ground good drainage.
Did you give a thought to how large it will be if it does manage to grow and have you the room in your garden.
All this is guesswork, I am not a lover of pines but it does look as if it had dried out too much to take up water again. It could even have red spider mite which leaves the brown area's you speak of. I put this post on to lift it back to the top as it is interesting to see what comes up.



Posted: 21/03/2013 at 12:52

Brycey, I live in County Durham and only grow tomato's outside in a very sheltered south facing spot, normally cherry types and not always successful, last year was a wash out even the greenhouse tomato's gave a very poor showing with tough skins and a bit watery.
Saying that we gardeners never give up, I sow seed in one third compost one third washed sand and one third fine grit then pot on to half compost half grit and sand.
My main pots twelve inch plastic with large holes in the base and no crocking will be set on the gravel bed in the greenhouse ready and the small pots then potted into the large pots and watered in. My out door pots will be lined up along the walking area (don't ask, they do get the odd knock as I scramble about) and when or if we get sunshine they go out into my sheltered area. Cool nights a fleece over them works, a snap frost it is back into the greenhouse.
You could cover them on cold days with fleece even newspaper but the main thing is to keep them out of the cold winds, that will turn the leaves blue as well as your fingers.


Grow lights

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 12:36

No point in asking me an old and craggy gardener Steph, I never used lights or saw the need for them, we garden by our weather patterns and experience.
Plants need light as much as they need heat and the Nursery up the road from me with fields of greenhouse do use them plus regulated heat to produce plants for early sale and the cost of the plants reflects that.
I would ask in this day of climate changes which even I notice do we need to be spending more on heat, light, and systems to produce food that given time nature will produce just as well. Potato's from Egypt, Salad stuff from Spain, Vegetables from France and from Belgium "err" apart from chocolate nothing, "oh well Steph" no use for your survey then.


Anyone oop North started planting yet ?

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 12:25

Steph, us Northerner's are one up from Yorkshire where pockets are tightly closed from birth to death, sorry Tykes.
We also watch the pennies and being half Yorkshire the Half pennies too so lights are out. I have electricity in my greenhouse for a heated sand bed and a frost guard fan heater but a green house is never big enough so growing stuff under lights to then sit in a cramped cool greenhouse would be economical madness.
Years of experience tell us when to sow and when to put stuff out clearing space for the tomato's etc, adding up all the costs of sowing early I think the £1 carrot or the £2 leek would choke me.


Plant direct or seed tray

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 12:13

My Grandchildren did set carrot seed in trays which I transferred later thinning them out once set, they came OK.
I plant mine straight into some old large pots and have not been bothered by carrot fly.
Your beds are high enough but if you are worried put some sticks in the ground round them and a very fine net or fleece just to raise the height a bit, the fly keeps near the soil I am told, could be an old wives tale of course. You can but try, if I am in doubt I will try just to see what happens.


Unrotted compost

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 12:04

Good question Nightgarden, we did spread rotted manure or part rotted compost in the potato trenches, apart from feeding the roots it also added some warmth to the soil as it worked.
The potato's grow on the Haum well up from what is in the bottom of the trench which is why we earth up and keep earthing up, saying that I cannot see a problem with doing the same in a bag.
You could try one as an experiment and let us know the result after all we gardeners spend our lives learning new tricks, the person who knows it all does not exist.


By hand or machine?

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 11:54

Yvonne, first I will tell you there is no easy fix either with chemical or by hand.
The moss needs to be got out as the grass under it will be strangled.
You can hire a scarifier if you do not have one and go over the lawn at high then keep lowering the blades this will remove a lot of the top growth, it will also scatter it about and regrow so it has to be swept off and bagged up, some will go in the compost well mixed.
You will be left with a really patchy lawn if there is any grass left under the moss, now is the time to Aerate, you can hire a machine to do this or using a garden fork start one end and methodically push it into the lawn every six inches or so, good exercise and I put my brain out of gear and listen to the bird song whilst doing that.
You now need to make up a mix of compost washed sand and lawn seed to spread on the area's where the grass has gone and gently rake it in. or sweep it in with a hard brush.
Let that grow which means not cutting the grass for a while then after a cut redo any bare patches with more of the mix.
Come the Autumn you will have a sort of lawn spread a winter feed and weed and leave after the last cut, make sure you water it in if it does not rain at the time.
Spring start to feed and weed about every six weeks or so and use the seed mix if there are still bare patches, two years from now you will have a good green lawn.
You could take off the old grass, (it makes good loam after standing in a stack for a year) and replace with rolls after preparing the soil to lay rolls. Modern grass rolls can come in fine medium and hard wearing so you take your pick.
I used to help look after our bowling green, there is nothing easy about caring for grass and it was very labour intensive and yes even with all the work we put in you would get some moss. I do not want to put you off Yvonne just wish you to know it is hard work.
Moss killer will knock most of it back, I hate chemicals although at times needed, then you will have the black patches to deal with and re-seed probably easier in time and effort it is up to you.
We are always here to help so ask if in doubt.


What's the weather like in your area?

Posted: 21/03/2013 at 11:24

Stockton cloudy although dry, could get brighter later although Gardening at the moment in this part od the country none existent, there will be an almighty rush in the next week or so.


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