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Palaisglide


Latest posts by Palaisglide

finding it hard to level out soil for grass seed.

Posted: 30/06/2014 at 16:01

On the bowling green we used a long plank on edge. Set it on one corner and swing the plank across a stretch of soil, you will see the dips and humps. Keep changing the position corner to corner until you get an even tilth.

Frank.

Can't send messages

Posted: 30/06/2014 at 15:56

Thanks Dove, it cannot have been important as I do not remember what I wanted to send.

Frank.

Can't send messages

Posted: 30/06/2014 at 15:03

Could not get on the forum to send messages Saturday Sunday, tried to change password after logging out no joy.

Today Monday changed password and they have now logged me in on the old password, what on earth is going on.

Frank or as you can see above the old password Palaisglide?????

Soil free fertilizers?

Posted: 27/06/2014 at 16:31

A reply to the above mail would be this forum is for learners to ask questions, the answers they do not know hence the question. Some of the more experienced or not gardeners to answer such questions and also learn from the experience of other gardeners who have made their mistakes and pass them on and who among us never made a mistake, I certainly have.

Many of the young  people today did not have the type of education we old lags had including science physics experimentation and how to research, not their fault just a broken system. My point being we should give a straight answer to the question or request more information even not answer rather than cause people to not ask. It took me a while to work out what Chris was doing and would probably work in a different way but who is to say he is wrong, I think we all wonder what goes into compost and after some of the debacles with chemicals over my life time who is to say he is wrong to worry.

Frank.

Soil free fertilizers?

Posted: 26/06/2014 at 17:48

Chris, Any good mix of soil manure and grit, I buy small bags of small grit and mix it in everything especially seed sowing. The birds will only eat the nearly ripe fruit that is when to net them, a flock of Starlings stripped my bushes after getting under the net. Do not fill the trough to the top leave plenty of room to top up with a mulch as containers will dry out quite quickly in full sun. Currants will be happy in partial shade and you may need to use some kind of support for them and the nets later.

In the Autumn ask again about pruning it is essential for the next years growth.

Frank.

Soil free fertilizers?

Posted: 26/06/2014 at 15:09

Right Chris, I have the idea, never be afraid of asking as many times as needed, some one will know and it is what this forum is for.

Currants of any colour are shallow rooted, the best planting time between October and March although container grown ones can go in anytime. They hate bad drainage though if the soil is too thin they will have a short life. Enhance the soil with plenty of compost mixed with manure and because of the shallow rooting mulch often. A dusting of organic fertiliser in spring with some Potash added, keep well watered especially black currants.

I personally would not grow them in a container they could need staking, birds love them so netting may be needed, after a frost it pays to heel them in as they can lift.

Pruning, cut down to a few inches after planting so the roots can establish, there after cut out about one third of the last years wood in Autumn, red and white currants cut back around half of the old wood in winter. Cut back all the shoots to about one third after fruiting.

They can be high maintenance to get the best from them, who said gardening was easy?

Frank.

Soil free fertilizers?

Posted: 26/06/2014 at 11:52

Chris, This must be impossible as all soil will contain some matter which could be classed as fertiliser. You would need to prove where the soil came from, a lot comes from new build fields that are stripped down to clay and the soil sold, it could contain anything.. A very deep dig would probably get you some virgin soil which would contain practically no nutrients and would be virtually useless as a growing media. Why must it be your own fertiliser and where does that fertiliser come from that makes it special, I fail to see the point and having never heard of any one supplying this type of soil cannot help, just very curious?

Frank.

Rubbish compost

Posted: 19/06/2014 at 23:10

It sounds daft but most people using grow bags for tomato's cut the hole then put a bottomless six or eight inch planter on top with good compost in it. The plant goes in the top planter, the water roots go down into the grow bag and the feed roots stay in the planter which can be topped up from time to time. I do away with the grow bag and plant straight into 12 inch pots only half filling the pot, as the plant grows I top up the pot until when in full fruit the pot is almost full. That feeds the plant but using a small measure of Tomorite in each can of water gives added feed when the fruit is set. The reason for never using grow bags was a total disaster many years ago and the loss of the full crop, so this is not a new problem, I said never again.

Frank.

Tips and advice needed for new lawn.

Posted: 19/06/2014 at 22:58

Again this depends on the usage, children and animals you need a tough lawn, a Bowling green is a totally different matter, I used to help maintain one of those and it was hard work.

The lawn seed will be marked as general purpose tough or soft and the people selling it will be happy to explain, you will know the use it will get so be careful in your choice.

Once it is ready and seeded come back as the first few months of a new lawn needs some special treatment.

Frank.

Tips and advice needed for new lawn.

Posted: 19/06/2014 at 19:27

Are you cutting the old lawn off, machines can be hired to take off the top layer which can be stacked upside down in a corner and will turn into lovely loam in a year.

The top soil you are getting should be put through a riddle to remove any weed or stones in it. The old lawn once the grass is removed should be dug over and if needed some drainage mixed in. ( for a top class lawn the soil should be dug out, drainage put in then the soil returned) time and money allowing. If not mix some washed sand in the top soil you bought and spread it evenly, rake it level using a plank on edge to make sure there are no dips or humps. The important bit is the gardeners shuffle as you work your way up and down pressing the soil firm then another gentle rake.

Now is it seed of which there are many kinds depending on what kind of lawn you want, or rolls which come in varying qualities, the best money allows.

Seed will show quite quickly and let it grow on before trying to cut it treating any bare patches with more seed raked in. If rolls then make sure all the edges are tight, trim of the spare and then water on a daily basis for at least two weeks.

It is hard work, no easy way and not a quick fix, money is often the deciding factor seed being cheaper than good rolls, that is up to you.

This is a very brief summary of the work ahead, then we are gardeners and know nothing comes easy we have to work at it.

Frank.

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