philippa smith2

Latest posts by philippa smith2


Posted: 19/10/2017 at 18:03

I'd think that would be a good idea Lorraine.  Much as it may go against the grain, I'd also consider removing the new flower buds unless they are on really robust plants when you may get them to open and enjoy them.  Otherwise, the less the plant has to do at this time of year ( ie being forced to flower ), the better and stronger it will be for Spring.

I'll be quick to point out that I am not an authority on Auriculas but I did grow them for sale in the dim and distant past.

Other forum members may have differing advice/comments so always worth hanging on to see if someone else can help before you take the plunge.

I agree - they are beautiful little plants so worth taking a bit of trouble with.


Posted: 19/10/2017 at 17:33

Auriculas are at their best in the Spring months.  Perhaps you have them too densely planted ?  They are likely to lose their leaves at this time of the year if you are growing them under natural conditions.

Unless there is an obvious sign of disease, the yellowing leaves  may be due to over watering or simply that your plants wish to retire for the winter. 


Posted: 19/10/2017 at 17:01

Which wildlife sanctuary was that patstacey ?  Do they have a website ?  I for one would certainly be interested to look at their findings on this subject


Posted: 19/10/2017 at 16:51

Just the 2 at the moment Mark but at least they have now returned to every night rather than every other.  Same thing each time - wander down the lawn, stop at the bird feeders to check out what's there, into the feeding station, out to have a drink, back in for another scoff and then either carefully down the step into the side yard or off round the side of the pond.  Never fail 

Didn't see the article re stopping feeding - I'll do mine until it's obvious they are no longer feeding.   


Posted: 19/10/2017 at 16:05

Depends whereabouts you are and how sheltered your Cold frames are. 

If you gradually acclimatise your hardy perennial plantlets to the cold frame, they should see the winter through and then be ready to plant out in Spring.

I think you are probably right about your geranium cuttings ( unless you are talking about Geraniums rather than Pelargoniums )

I tend to use mine for perennials which have been sown late summer/autumn and also for sowing other seeds which like a cool/cold spell before they germinate in the spring. Cuttings of hardy/half hardy plants which have rooted but too small to plant out also go in the frame.

Again, think about your particular climate and the aspect.  You can of course add further protection to plants you are a bit "iffy" about - newspaper or fleece - just in case.  Remember tho that whatever you put in there will still require some ventillation at some point through the winter months.


Posted: 18/10/2017 at 18:41

In the absence of proven scientific stats, I'd agree with Singing Gardener.

There are far too many scare stories doing the rounds - the majority are simply that - when you look into them, they just don't stand up to scrutiny.

Doesn't mean we shouldn't take care - of course we should but we also need to be reasonable.

Is Vermiculite dangerous

Posted: 18/10/2017 at 18:29

Probably gone the same way as the correct use of language, history, geography, etc. perhaps ?

It is a changing world - especially for us "oldies"


Posted: 18/10/2017 at 17:11

I'd be more than interested to know the %age of Hhog deaths which can be attributed to the use of Slug pellets ?  Is there / has there been anything published on this subject at all ?

As a loyal Hhog feeder/follower I have found that the various Hhog authorities often give conflicting advice with regard to suitable foodstuff - if they are unable to agree comprehensively on a suitable diet. then I am just a tad wary of some of the info that is offered re the inherent dangers of some gardening practices. 

Don't misunderstand me - the use of toxins of any sort is to be avoided whenever possible - not just for the sake of our Hhogs but for our other wildlife as well.

Mark - I'm still enjoying my Hhogs at the moment 

what size hydrangea petiolaris to buy?

Posted: 18/10/2017 at 16:53

Some places are known to pop 2 litre plants into a 5 litre pot just to charge more - same size rootball but more compost

If you have the opportunity to compare the 2, poke about in the pot, check the bottom to see if you can see roots, etc.

Other than that, the strongest looking plant is the better bet whatever the pot size and will establish more quickly.

Cherry Laurel

Posted: 18/10/2017 at 16:45

If your ground is already prepared then bare root should be ok. An ideal time to plant bare root stuff and I would think it would usually be cheaper

You don't say whether you are intending to plant a hedge or whether just a single.  The laurels tend to be pretty fast growing so bear that in mind.  The more you restrict their height, the more side growth will be produced.  They will form a fairly solid barrier within 2 or 3 years.

Depends how "instant" you want to be but 5 to  a metre is pushing it I think. Others may have differing opinions so wait for a bit more advice before you decide

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