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Latest posts by quercus_rubur

321 to 329 of 329


Posted: 09/06/2012 at 03:21

I've had years when they didn't flower. I don't know if it depends on the variety. I usually pull mine up about 12 weeks after planting. As I plant them out around Easter I start harvesting around July/August. If you're growing them in a tub you can always put your hand in and test to see if they're big enough. Never grown them in a greenhouse though so I don't know if this would speed up their maturity


Posted: 09/06/2012 at 03:13

I usually divide mine in late August/Sept every 3 or 4 years. The 4 varieties (bearded and sibrica) I have are usually flowering in May/June so I wouldn't move or divide them then

Perennials not growing

Posted: 09/06/2012 at 03:03

This is my third year of trying. I bought an Echinacea Tomato Soup last year. I thought it had died till I came to plant out some purpurea seedlings. It was still there but tiny. They might be hardy in southern areas but they certainly aren't in my area, Plus they're not very long lived

Mystery plant

Posted: 07/06/2012 at 00:05

I bought a sickly Dracaena for 10p from Morrisons about 15 years ago. Still here, 6 foot tall, and most of the family have plants from the cuttings


Posted: 06/06/2012 at 23:59

I've had mixed results with mine this year. One pot of Bishop of Llandaff are growing very well, while another of Waltzing Matilda perished as it was too wet. I looked at the tubers last weekend and they are pretty well rotted I've also grown some from seed - Bishops Children - which flourished until I hardened them off. While half are still flourishing and leafy, the other half got eaten by slugs and are just bare stalks. One can live in hope for a new set of leaves though

mushroom compost

Posted: 06/06/2012 at 23:52

It's good as a soil improver or mulch on most veg, but especially brassicas. Raspberries prefer more acidic soil so no it's not good on those or other fruit. I wouldn't use it in the runner bean trench unless you're mixing it with compost which will provide the nutrients

ideas for a container on a SW facing wall

Posted: 06/06/2012 at 23:42

The planter box will restrict the size of whatever you grow in it. Sounds like you would like to grow a Camelia or Rhodo. I have both growing in planters - the rhodo's been in for over 20 years and still looks magnificent every March/April. The camelia's about 8 years old and this year flowered from late March and has only just stopped. I repot them about every 5 years. They both like shade at some point in the day and need to be kept moist, especially at the roots. I feed them once during flowering and once in the Autumn with an ericaceous feed - oh and they like spent coffee grains. While they are both evergreen, the flowering periods aren't that long. I too would recommend Clematis Freckles, but there are other small clematis you can grow this site gives them by height so could be worth a look


Pot Grown Potatoes

Posted: 22/05/2012 at 23:18

They do take a lot of compost but I think they're worth it. For one thing they will last much longer than shop bought ones - as does most hone-grown veg. I also grow mine in pots so I don't bother with main crop. I usually buy ones that cost more or you can't get in supermarkets like Pink Fir Apple, or Lady Cristl. Given the rain we've had over the past 2 months I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a bumper crop!

That new roundup gel

Posted: 22/05/2012 at 23:06

The main issue I have with it is the size of the spreader. I've been using it on some bindweed which is growing in between plants. It's far more difficult than using the brush that used to come with the old type of Glyphosate Gel. A smaller spreader or an additional smaller size would have been better - not sure what was wrong with the brush anyway. I bought mine in Wilkinson's for £6.50. As Alina says it works by promoting excessive growth but will evenutally kill the plant

321 to 329 of 329

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