Latest posts by Rekusu

1 to 10 of 33

Garden gate

Posted: 17/03/2017 at 20:08

I understand; thank you.

Garden gate

Posted: 17/03/2017 at 15:05

Good point; don't know about forever, but I can hopefully see the next 10+ years.

Think I will soak with used engine oil and postcrete them in.  Anything I do should cause them to last longer than the current ones.

Thanks all

Garden gate

Posted: 17/03/2017 at 13:04

I can't use metal as the gate has to be hinged to the posts.  Also, the chain link fencing has to be reattached to the posts.

As drainage is probably the main reason for rotting, I am just running this idea past you all.

Dig out the existing concrete with the intention of replacing the posts in a similar manner.  But at the base of the hole, drop in some gravel or general rubble.  Paint the posts with plenty of oil and allow it to soak in and postcrete the posts back into the hole.  Hopefully, the oil will reduce water absorption and the rubble will allow water to drain away.

Anyone tried it?  Cannot be any worse than doing nothing.

Garden gate

Posted: 16/03/2017 at 20:07

Wow; thanks for the fast response.

I guess you are right about rotting at the top of the concrete.  Am I likely to be able to get another post into the hole in the concrete?  Personally, I think that may either not fit or will be too loose.

I know whatever I do will not last forever, but I will certainly paint the bottom of the posts with copious amounts of used engine oil in an attempt to keep the water out.  I believe the current posts where treated but one has no idea as to how good the treatment was.

Garden gate

Posted: 16/03/2017 at 19:43

What ho one and all,

X years ago, when we bought the property, I had a gate installed at the back, into the neighbouring woodland.

Recently, I have noticed that the 4 x 4 vertical posts have rotted and it is only the chain link fence that is holding everything up.

I intend to replace the verticals, but...............  They are probably set in  concrete so is it possible to dig out the rotten wood and put the new posts into the concrete holes? 

If not, the alternatives are to break out the concrete and start over with new concrete .Or, dig out the concrete and replace use those metal ground spikes which clamp the base of the vertical pole so it is not actually in the wet ground.

Which is the best way forward?

Thanks and toodle pip


Soft Verge

Posted: 16/11/2016 at 13:32

Thanks for the replies.  Will see if the road association will fork out for some paving grids (matgrids)

As for soft verges, having done a Google translate, that gave me a giggle!

Soft Verge

Posted: 15/11/2016 at 10:45

Thanks for the suggestions. 

The road committee have considered posts, but some of the large trucks are so large that if/when they hit a post, they will only knock it to the side, dislodge a large section of soil (or lever up the concrete road) and not even know they have hit anything.

We have considered large stones (expensive) and currently have a lot of large logs that dissuade cars from cutting the corner, but again, when a truck hits the logs, the driver does not even know.

The turning circle is large enough for most trucks, but very big ones do give it a try.  And then then cut the internal corners because the roundabout is not a constant diameter.  If the hard internal edges are enlarged, then that will only encourage large trucks to turn even tighter and they will still run over the verge.

Hence, i would like to inexpensively, reinforce the verge so that if/when a truck does run over it, the ground is more solid grass rather than incredibly squidgey grass.

Soft Verge

Posted: 15/11/2016 at 08:15

What ho one and all,

I live in a private road and there is a small roundabout in front of my house.  As such, a group of houses have ownership but I am the only one who actually does any work, mainly mowing the grass, leaf clearing, etc.

The immediate verge is very, very soft and frequently, large trucks that think they can get around, don't and squidge into the verge, causing damage that they don't even know they caused.

What is the best way to increase the  firmness of this verge without going as far as paying for ground stabilization mesh?

Thanks and toodle pip


Planting a holly bush

Posted: 01/10/2016 at 12:18

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Did what I planned, cutting off the base, turned on side and cut the pot, then eased upright and it slid into the hole perfectly.  In fact, it could not have worked better.

Hardest part was digging the hole, not only because of the patches of clay about two feet down, but mainly because when the original house was built around 1960, the builders use the front garden as a rubble depository.  About one foot under the top soil, bricks, tiles, lumps of concrete.  It all make the digging a regular PIA!

Now have a few sacks of 'builders' rubble that the local dump will charge £5 per bag to dispose.

Planting a holly bush

Posted: 30/09/2016 at 10:21

Thanks; I just assume that the gardener knows what she is doing?

She does have very green fingers, so hopefully, all will be OK.  The hole will be larger than necessary, pre-watered overnight to allow it to soak in, and once in place, there will be lots of good compost, leaf-mould, etc mixed with the soil before filling in.  Will also install a couple of pipes for deep root watering.

The bush looks in good condition so see no reason to be concerned.

1 to 10 of 33

Discussions started by Rekusu

Garden gate

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Last Post: 17/03/2017 at 21:42

Soft Verge

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Last Post: 16/11/2016 at 13:32

Planting a holly bush

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Trimming tree

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Fighting Bramble

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