London (change)
Today 14°C / 11°C
Tomorrow 11°C / 2°C

ross2


Latest posts by ross2

1 to 10 of 11

Lawn Maintenance

Posted: 10/09/2013 at 19:21

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}

There are soil compaction test meters on the market;(penetrometer) you can get them for a few hundred pounds.  In all my years in the industry I must admit to never using one!  If soil conditions are damp and you have any difficulty in pushing a garden fork or a golf tee peg into the ground, then compaction may be a problem.   http://www.erento.co.uk/hire/tools-equipment/gardening-landscape-equipment/lawn-scarifier/?gclid=CPG6jcy2wbkCFWXKtAod5HUA3Q

Is a link for a hire company.  Dependent on hire and delivery-collection costs, it may be cheaper to get someone in to do it. http://www.uklawncare.net/ will give you an independent lawn care business close to you.   It should cost about 50p per m2 ish

Hope this helps. Any more info needed ,on any aspect of lawn care, just yell!

Regards

Ross

Lawn Maintenance

Posted: 09/09/2013 at 09:46

Hi Meomye,

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}

There are two primary methods of aerating, spiking and coring.  Spiking uses solid tines, slit tines or chisel tines, these only a have a very short term effect, particularly on lighter soils.  In all lawns that I aerate I use the hollow coring method.

Before carrying out any coring one must understand what it archives, it will be a pointless exercise if your lawn doesn’t benefit from it.

Hollow tining opens up soil to create entry points for air, water, oxygen and fertiliser.  It also help loosen surface compaction, break up any thatch layer, improve water and nutrient infiltration, increase oxygen in the root zone, encourage new, deeper root growth and  reduces water runoff or puddling

 When I core, the extracted core plugs of grass and soil are deposited on the surface of the lawn.  I leave these to dry and degrade for a few days, even a week, before mowing over the top of them (with a rotary mower, not a cylinder one).  I do this in dry conditions without a grass collection box.  The mower blades chop and pulverise the cores, the soil element of the cores is distributed over the lawn and the core holes.  The resulting light dusting of soil covering the lawn settles on any thatch layer and the beneficial micro organisms contained in the soil can further aid in thatch reduction.  To complete the process is simple, attach your grass box and mow as normal.  This will pick up all the debris left on the surface and visually return your lawn to normal.

 I prefer to do this in the depths of winter as the frost helps to degrade the cores and also gets down into the core holes causing fissures in the root zone that further aids drainage and root development.  The grass height is normally slightly higher in the winter months so visually the process isn’t so apparent.  Lastly (good I hear you say!!) because photosynthesis is at a minimum, leaving the cores on the surface, covering other leaves doesn’t cause yellowing to the lawn.

The rate for iron is approximately 0.5kg - 1.5kg to a 16 litre knapsack.  As I don’t know what your sprayer is calibrated to, I would start at the lower rate.  As I said use warm water to dissolve the iron, best done in a plastic bucket, after its fully dissolved it is best to sieved it before adding to your knapsack.  Don’t get any of the spray on natural stone work, it will stain!!

Hope this is of help

Regards

Ross

Lawn Maintenance

Posted: 07/09/2013 at 19:38

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}

Hi Meomye,

It would be my personal preference to carry out scarification in the spring, after selective weed control has weakened or dispatched any broadleaf weeds.  My reasoning behind this is, the fact that you raise. the point about recovery  Carrying out heavy scarification in the autumn, may well leave small or even large areas devoid of grass, if the autumn then takes an unexpected cold snap, good seed germination could be hampered, thus going through the winter with a patchy lawn.  Conversely, if carried out in the spring, the weather will at some stage be conducive to good germination and therefore good all round recovery. 

Hollow core aeration however, again in my opinion, should be done in the winter months, (if any one wishes me to expand this view point I would be happy to do so, just ask).

The iron application that I use is a simple application of sulphate of iron, more expensive irons are available, but why spend money that is not needed.  Sulphate of iron can be applied at a rate between 8 to 20kg/ha in 300 to 600 litres of water per ha.  (if you want me to put this into a knapsack application rate just let me know) When putting into a solution use very hot water, it will dissolve much better, if you add a little liquid nitrogen fertiliser to the solution it will be taken up much faster by the plant.  If this all sounds a little to daunting you could always get a lawn care company to do it for you, if so you can find one on http://www.uklawncare.net

If I can be of any more help, please let me know.

Regards

Ross

Lawn Maintenance

Posted: 07/09/2013 at 08:57

Hi Meomye,

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

Can you tell me why you want to overseed, have you bare areas or is the sward particularly weak?  If not, i feel that overseeding to be a waste of money.  I have over a hundred lawn care customers and i don’t overseed any of them  as a matter of course.  An autumn selective weed application, followed about a fortnight later  by a good scarify to remove surface debris and an iron application around Christmas will keep good colour and help slow down any moss invasion.  If i can be of more help mail me thecoursemanager@hotmail.com

Regards

Ross

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}

lawn

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 20:06
Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

Sorry you have had this experience.  The company should have used a total weed killer on the existing vegetation, and then removed the top layer.  The remaining surface should have then been rotavated and the whole site levelled.  The surface should then have been consolidated by heal and toeing the area then lightly raked for the finish levels.  A pre seed / turf fertiliser application should then be applied before finally laying the turf,  I would be interested in how much they charged you per M2, we charge from £5 m2 on a level area ready to turf to £9 m2 dependent on how much work is required.  If i can be of any more help in terms of advice, please feel free to mail me on info@lawnsure.co.uk

Regards

Ross

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}

Good quality Lawn Top Dressing ready mixed

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 19:01

Are you sorted yet?

lawn

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 18:57
Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

 

It depends on how you wish yo apply it, in a watering can or in a calibrated knap sack sprayer.  If in the later i would recommend a rate of 2 to 8 kg per hec in 300 to 600 ltrs of water per hec.  Sulphate of iron will not completely  kill moss, it is not translocated to the roots, it will desiccate the plant and knock it back and will slow its invasion.  If i can be of any more help please mail me info@lawnsure.co.uk

 

regards

 

Ross

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}

Talkback: Autumn lawn care

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 18:42

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

In my years of experience of golf course management and as an independent lawn care operator i would like to say,

September, going into late October is a good time to overseed a lawn.  If you are now cutting a new lawn, keep cutting on a weekly basis, while good growth is with us, reduce your cutting to say monthly when the growth slows right down.  You can slowly reduce the height as well, but remember never cut off more than a third in height.  There is no need to scarify or aerate a newly seeded lawn, please dont!. you will rip up all your hard work.  It is my opinion that the best time to scarify a lawn, if needed, is early spring.  If i can be of any more help please email me at info@lawnsure.co.uk

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}

Lawn Care

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 18:29
Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

You might want help from the experts; you may even find it cheaper than doing it yourself.  To find an independent lawn care expert near you, go to http://www.uklawncare.net/  pop in your post code and it will list a company close to you.  As far as the brown patches in your lawn, try buying tomato juice and adding about a table spoon to her (i presume it’s a her) food each meal.  I have had good results in the past.  Good luck

/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}

Autumn lawn care

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 18:21

ops sorry should also have said, you should of course apply an autumn / winter fertiliser, dependent on any weed invasion a selective weed application may be worth while

Ross

1 to 10 of 11

Discussions started by ross2

ross2 has not started any discussions