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Latest posts by sterelitza

Seed pods on New Zealand Flax

Posted: 03/08/2012 at 08:46

Thanks for your reply Gary.  I have not replied earlier because I have been waiting to see what would happen with my New Zealand Flax this year.  Two more have produced huge flower heads on high poles but as the plant that did this last year suffered as a result I decided to remove them this year before they started running to seed.  I have several different varieties of flax and only the spiky variety have produced these flowers.  The red variety do not seem to do so.  I have had them in my garden for approx 4 years, they were purchased in pots from various nurseries and garden centres and I think they would have been approx 5 years old as they were in fairly large pots.  I have noticed that some of them are prone to mealy bug and worry about this.  Another thing I tried from the seeds gathered last year was to plant them to see if they would grow, some of them germinated and grew about an inch but sadly died.  I am going to keep trying though as there are hundreds of seeds.

Seed pods on New Zealand Flax

Posted: 30/06/2012 at 00:04

Hi, can anyone please advise whether I should cut off the long seed pods growing on my New Zealand Flax plants.  Thanks.

What do you think of this combination?

Posted: 21/06/2012 at 23:40
Mrs MacGregor wrote (see)

Sarcococca, scented evergreen for winter rather than Mahonia perhaps.

Hi Mrs MacGregor, what an interesting recommendation.  I wonder which variety you can suggest for all year round interest and whether either can be propogated as easily as the common buxus.


Posted: 20/06/2012 at 11:30

Hi BobTheGardner  and Alina W,  thanks for that tip.  I shall try growing them in pots as I really like these plants.

Talkback: How to plant a grapevine

Posted: 19/06/2012 at 22:15

Hi Bob, thanks for all that great advice.  I am going to print it out and follow the pruning carefully.  I shall let you know how things go this year with the grapes. Thanks again.

Problems with newly planted topiary box hedge.

Posted: 19/06/2012 at 11:52

Thanks for explaining David K.  When you realize the patience gardners need to grow species plants like yours you can understand why the garden centres and florists charge so much for their fully grown topiary box plants. 


Posted: 19/06/2012 at 11:33

Thanks Alina W.  I shall try everything you suggest as I want to keep these flowers in my garden as the bees love them and they are really pretty when in bloom.  Really striking blossoms which last for ages.  Slugs like them as well unfortunately!!


Posted: 19/06/2012 at 10:47

Thanks sotongeoff, it seems a pity to dispose of a plant that has been increasing in size and producing great blooms, but as you say if the spores remain in the soil the problem will persist.  I don't suppose there is any way of destroying the spores that remain in the soil.

Problems with newly planted topiary box hedge.

Posted: 19/06/2012 at 09:53
David K wrote (see)

Paul - no need to ever buy box plants again, once you have a few. When you trim them, you can use the trimmings for cuttings....they take root really well.

Congratulations on growing such a magnificent box ball from a cutting.  Can you please indicate whether this is from one box cutting or did you plant a few small ones together in the pot and then shaped the ball as they grew and how long did it take for it to grow to the size of the one in your picture.  I too have grown some box plants from cuttings but they take quite a long time, a few years in fact to become large enough to shape into topiary.  Thanks.


Posted: 19/06/2012 at 09:40

Help... I have some lovely Hollyhocks in the border which are growing really well, but the large leaves are being infested with rust on the underside.  As a result the leaves curl up and die.  This happens every year, the flower spike develops and flowers well but the plants look odd without their leaves.  What can I do to prevent this happening.  Thanks

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