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Topbird


Latest posts by Topbird

plant identification+

Posted: 07/06/2013 at 21:16

Looks like Vibernum Tinus to me as well. I would have thought this was one of the better shrubs for hayfever sufferers because it flowers very early in the season (often in winter if it's mild enough) but .... I don't know for sure. You might have some luck Googling to find out what you need to know now you know the name of the plant.

If it is likely to cause a problem for you - then this is a shrub which doesn't mind regular pruning & you could just shear it when the flower heads have formed but not opened. I often have very few flowers on mine because I like to keep it trimmed to a tidy shape (I trim it twice a year much like cutting a hedge) & just use the large dark green shrub as a good background foil for other plants.

Coldframes

Posted: 07/06/2013 at 08:54

Hi Chicky

I'd be interested to see the photos too as I am thinking of going down the same route. Bought my OH a Workmate last year. It would be nice to give him something to do with it 

Rambling Rose

Posted: 06/06/2013 at 13:41

Hi Alko

Just another thought after looking at your photos again...

Is that a fence you are planting against? and what are the plants surrounding the rose? When you re-plant try to give the rose as much clear space as possible - they don't like a lot of competition from other shrubs and plants and you want to give this one every chance. Ramblers cope with competion better than other types of roses (which is why people grow them through trees) so, once it's growing happily, you can start to introduce some pretty bulbs / perennials etc around the base - but for now I'd give it it's own space with no competition.

Also make sure you plant away from the base of the fence and away from fence posts. The fence will create a 'rain shadow' so that soil at the base of it stays much drier (and roses don't like that). Minimum of 18" away from the fence with the rose tipped slightly toward the fence should see you about right. Try to plant away from any posts simply because the roots need room to grow as quickly as possible and the concrete or concrete sand mix used at the base of posts isn't conducive.

 

Rambling Rose

Posted: 06/06/2013 at 00:24

Roses are actually rather tough plants. I have had to severely reduce a couple of climbers in past seasons almost to the ground & (with a little TLC) they have come back stronger than ever.

All the above advice is very sound. My contribution is to also use some mycchorizal fungi (aka "Rootgrow" - from your local GC). Sprinkle a little directly onto the base of the rootball + some in the bottom of the hole (it has to be in direct contact with the roots). It helps the plant enormously by developing a feeding / drinking root system really quickly. Strongly recommended by Monty Don on GW & the RHS (and me !!).

Good luck

What To Train Up Obelisk ?

Posted: 03/06/2013 at 09:05

There are several red D.A. New English roses

(see this link   http://www.davidaustinroses.com/english/searchlist.asp ).

The 2 recommended for training as small climbers are Falstaff (6') and Tess of the d'Urbervilles (7').

I have seen Falstaff growing & it is very pretty & has a good scent. 

What To Train Up Obelisk ?

Posted: 25/05/2013 at 19:24

You could look at the David Austen New English Roses. Some of those make very good short climbers (up to about 6 - 8 ft) (I like Gertrude Jekyll). They are known for their attractive form, repeat flowering and many have very good scent.

I agree with Mahwah that trying to prune 2 clematis on the same support could be difficult unless they flower / need pruning at the same time (which kind of defeats the object...)

veg trug

Posted: 24/05/2013 at 16:52

Just a thought BBE. The similar size container I referred to in my post above was actually built of scavenged old bricks. It was about 3 bricks high and the bricks were laid in the traditional way but not mortared into place so the whole thing was easy to both build and dismantle (no mortar also meant lots of drainage gaps). The 'container' can be any size depending on space / number of bricks available. Filled with contents of 3 or 4 cheap grow bags. It was dead cheap, looked nice and rustic, was very stable because quite low and required no real skill to build. Plants grew very well in it for several years.

veg trug

Posted: 24/05/2013 at 15:40

I don't have a vegtrug but I have seen them planted up at GCs etc - they look nice if you only have a small space. I have grown things in a similar size container but concentrated on small stuff which is expensive in the supermarkets - mainly cut & come again salad leaves & herbs, (esp coriander, basil, tarragon and flat leaf parsley) - only need a couple of plants of each to feed one or two. 

Celeriac info

Posted: 21/05/2013 at 19:29

Can I come & do the wine tasting please...? hic 

Help

Posted: 21/05/2013 at 08:50

I had this plant too. It is very pretty but very invasive. I managed to find a spot where it could do it's thing but then waged war on the rest in the borders. Continue digging whatever you can but then dab the tiny new plants with glyphosphate as they emerge. I couldn't spray mine because it was growing through desirable plants but I found glyphosphate mixed with wallpaper paste & applied with rubber gloves and paintbrush worked well. I guess the new(ish) Roundup Gel that you can just dab on leaves would do the job just as well (wasn't available when I was waging war).

Important thing is to be vigilant & zap the new plants as soon as they have enough leaf to apply the Roundup or your potion of choice.

Good luck - I won the battle - you can too 

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