- specialist in all types of carnivorous plants, especially UK hardy ones.
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2 days ago at 09:02
give the surface a light rake to remove the moss,
then add a layer of compost (about 1 inch) this will give everything a feed in the bed and then top with a layer of mulch (2-3 inches) this should stop the moss returning.
3 days ago at 11:07
you can sink most trampolines, just make sure they have something solid for the feet to sit on that aren't going to sink or twist, my friend used small square paving slabs on top of a layer of tamped gravel, if you soil is liable to collapse (sandy soil in particular) then you have to put some boards in to stop it filling the hole.
you can also make the edges of the hole not vertical, think about what shape the trampoline bed is when in full down 'bounce', it looks like a cone and you dig the hole accordingly, just make sure you leave enough room or someone might hit the floor when using it.
Last edited: 18 January 2017 11:10:01
3 days ago at 11:38
either JI mix should be fine, you might want to add some multi purpose compost into the mix and chicken manure pellets mixed into the bottom couple of inches of fill to give the tree a bit of a kick start next year.
remember to remove all fruit in the first year so the tree focuses on growing rather than fruiting.
Last edited: 17 January 2017 11:41:30
3 days ago at 11:29
some of the fake grass available now looks quite good, bizarrely you have to weed it if real grass starts to grow, it useful in areas of high traffic, or high child usage and once the kids grow up a bit, its easy to remove and put a real lawn down.
Also think about sinking the trampoline into the ground. A friend of mine has just done that and its remarkable how much better her garden looks for it. Just remember drainage, otherwise you get a trampoline/paddling pool combination!
3 days ago at 08:55
it isn't about how hot it gets during the day, its about how cold it gets on a night, once the night time temperatures drop below 10 degrees indoors it limits what you can grow.
so the question is, how cold does it get on a frosty night outdoors?
16 Jan 2017 08:58
coral spot infects dead or dying wood, it doesn't kill the wood to infect it, if you prune back into living wood (at a bud so more die back doesn't occur) you should be ok,
don't compost the stuff you chop off, i'd burn it and dust it around plants in the garden in the spring.
13 Jan 2017 11:12
You could take cuttings? take plenty and hopefully one with strike, that way you don't loose the rose (technically) and you don't have buy a new one!
13 Jan 2017 11:06
any of the crab apples, rowans, birches, small maples would all do fine and give good colour at various times of the year.
13 Jan 2017 11:05
the easiest way I have found to stop the neighbours cats using my garden as a latrine is to get a cat with an attitude,
we've just rehomed a cat that is 1/4 Scottish wildcat (she a tame cat, not a feral one- though her mother was feral and I think she taught her bad habits) anyway, cat poo in the garden disappeared within a week of letting her out.
and cats don't poo in their own gardens!
11 Jan 2017 15:15
It would be nice to have another RHS site in northern England, we have Harlow Carr and then you have to head to Hyde Hall in Essex for the next closest.
Wonder why are they mostly located in southern England? are they scared of the slightly colder conditions north of the Watford gap?
11 Jan 2017 15:08
I would pot them up in a decent sized pot (8 inches should do) put them outside in a sunny corner, make sure you bring them inside if the temps drop below -5 (which is unlikely in Cornwall)
11 Jan 2017 14:31
if you can get hold of leaf mould then mix 50-50 with a good loam based compost, then top dress every year with 100% leaf mould - it replicates where they live in woodland
11 Jan 2017 14:29
any gravel will do, as will sharp sand (not builder sand, that causes more trouble than its worth!)
11 Jan 2017 14:27
I believe the technical term for that damage is 'terminal failure of main structural parts', otherwise known as buggered
10 Jan 2017 14:32
I would only force a rhubarb every four to five years,
they need to recover their strength after the stress of forcing,
you might find it won't harvest very well this year anyway, but if you try and force it you might kill it.
10 Jan 2017 14:30
I have a giant pitcher plant in a plastic hanging basket and a spider plant kokedama in my bathroom and I have Mexican butterworts in a glazed pot in my front window
09 Jan 2017 11:34
I've found a pot of bulbs in the greenhouse and I thought I would pot them up as roots were coming out the bottom, the seed label has washed clean and I have no idea what they are, they are a decent sized bulb (larger than a daffodil) but they have large fleshy roots, as they were in the greenhouse i'm assuming they aren't frost hardy.
09 Jan 2017 10:55
New Zealand yam, lemon eucalyptus, ginger, lemon grass, sweet potato, pineapple, this year im growing turmeric and taro, if I can get a tuber sorted.
09 Jan 2017 10:50
I prefer Beechgrove over gardeners world as they do more trials and should you how to basic stuff where as gardeners world has become more looking at established gardens or gardens which people have a lot of money to throw at them.
big dreams small spaces is good, as was the one Charlie Dimmock did last summer, as they show you how far money goes in a garden.
23 Dec 2016 11:10
I would first take out the D's - dead, diseased, damaged (rubbing/crossing/broken etc.) and dying.
then go have a cup of tea - cutting stuff off is easy - sticking it back on is hard. Plus you only want to remove about 1/4 of the growth this year.
when you return from your cuppa you want to remove any branches in the 'inside of the tree' that is it should look like a cup/goblet sort of shape - branches on the outside and very little around the trunk apart from main branches - my Grandfather said you should be able to chuck a golf ball thru a fruit tree and have it hit no more than one branch.
remember that you winter prune for growth, so the more you cut in winter the more it'll grow.
I would do summer pruning in about august to try and get some good fruiting branches and then thin again in winter next year