Latest posts by trillium2cv

Pruning/cutting a 50yr apple tree

Posted: 06/02/2014 at 18:24

Might reporting the bats affect how you handle your apple tree?

Paper shreddings

Posted: 06/02/2014 at 18:14

Good at the bottom of runner bean trenches too.

Paper shreddings

Posted: 06/02/2014 at 18:13

Good at the bottom of runner nean trenches too.


Posted: 21/11/2013 at 23:00

Should have said the photo was through a double glazed window, so not as sharp as it could be. I have some videos too but at a minute or so plus they may be too long for this forum, and don't know how to remove the background noise from indoors.


Posted: 21/11/2013 at 22:57

Red Sentinel is a stunner. In a mild year the fruit may hang around until the next blossom and you have to pull them off, and they are still almost ascherry red as in the autumn, and on long stems too. In a cold year the "thrushes" hopefully move in and you will get a wildlife spectacular. It took a flock of 30 or so 4 days to strip mine in January 2010, Gorgeous is supposed to be similar but mine is too young at present.

Tree roots with reference to drains

Posted: 14/11/2013 at 21:15

What has happened to the drains. Old ones were rigid clay pipes with many joints. A bit of heave from a passing root and "crack", the joint opens and Luvly the plant says, with a steady feed supply. If you now have modern replacement long PVC runs with few and flexible joints, much of your problem may have gone. Most trees that grow near water such as willow and poplar have searching roots, so avoid water-side trees. Surface rooters like silver birch may be OK. Cherries grow far and wide like all suckering shrubs and trees, amd want to take over the world, but may not go deep enough to bother the drains much, so don't assume spread is the same as deep rooting unless your drains are very shallow because of the rock.

Bulb compost

Posted: 19/09/2013 at 21:01

Do you mean "bulb compost" or "bulb fibre"? The latter has little or nothing to feed a bulb for future growth. Bulb compost may just be repackaged ordinary compost with or without higher phosphorus to promote bulb growth.

Finish the pond now or in the spring?

Posted: 19/09/2013 at 20:44

I needed several cubic yards of soil to shape a new drive bank entrance, so I now have a ~12' diameter by 2' deep hole in the garden. Over winter and maybe by next spring I will have a pond. I bought a small glass fibre pond on ebay for a header tank into which I will run the rain-water from a downpipe, this will "appear" to run down a stream and into the new hole. At least that's the plan. Always had a pond in another garden but never this large. Main problems are the slope in the garden, and the flints in the soil and protecting the liner. Lots of old carpet and sand I think.

If you buy plants now Sara get a good deal. Nuseries can't get rid of them quick enough this time of the year, but don't expect them to grow. I am going to wait until early spring or just sit plants bought now in tubs etc. Don't pull plants apart now, the roots won't like it. Tub- trugs are great for storing wet pots in with the minimum protection over winter. They won't need any light if no leaves. Or for marginals just drop them in the edge of the pond as you buy them, and lift and pot properly in spring.


Posted: 19/09/2013 at 20:16

Bulbs are best, BUT only if you get them in early summer soon after they have gone dormant. "In the green" you always damage some roots and they take a year or so to recover, unless they are a clump from a neighbour and you just transplant intact, or you take very great care separating and water in as you plant. Bulbs that have dried in the garden centre are very hit and miss. Just buy as soon as they appear and hope for the best, or buy from a snowdrop freak, who hopefully will do the right thing. Pots are OK for a start but get them in the garden as soon as you can for the next season. They rot very easily in poorly drained pots.

Silver birch groups

Posted: 19/09/2013 at 18:32

blairs is correct in his first sentence. Just look at the google images in and decide what effect you want. Planting close together, i.e. less than a metre, will give a multistemmed effect, quicker than buying that type of tree which can be very expensive. Close planting limits the growth of each tree unless you have very rich soil and moisture, and very good light, but if you want to walk between them then 1 metre is the minimum, and 2 is better. Note they are surface rooting and very little grows between them well.

Discussions started by trillium2cv

Blippar for Tablets and Phones

Replies: 12    Views: 2219
Last Post: 01/03/2014 at 10:31

Talkback: Autumn crocus pot display

Looks a funny autumn crocus to me. More like Pickwick. 
Replies: 6    Views: 1146
Last Post: 07/09/2013 at 12:39

Talkback: How to plant gladioli corms

I don't know who prepares these articles but if the corms are 6" deep in the picture then they are truly massive corms and the hand is sever... 
Replies: 4    Views: 1540
Last Post: 29/01/2016 at 18:16
3 threads returned