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trillium2cv


Latest posts by trillium2cv

low-hedging

Posted: 15/08/2013 at 19:33

This website is as good as any for advice http://www.ashridgetrees.co.uk/ but I have never bought from them. I guess your problem is the height limitation. Box and Lonicera are the usual dwarf/small leaved varieties used for short hedges, it depends on what type of hedge you want. Even step-over apples will produce one, if you like this sort of thing, and you can make one from just a few trees if you have the patience.

runner-bean-help

Posted: 15/08/2013 at 19:08

It is my worst year too for setting. Only in the last week have I been picking beans. I pinch mine out to make them branch and initially keep the height down but am not aware this has any effect on flowers setting which is the problem. Plenty of bees around and I have not seen any using the "back door", which is often mentioned. I have not seen any beetles but will check again more closely. The variety can effect this problem too, as a neighbours beans have been producing for several weeks.

I want to hide the houses at the end of the garden

Posted: 02/05/2013 at 20:45

The thing to remember is not to try and build a barrier at your boundary. A small tree/screen 1/3 way down one side and another tree/screen 2/3 way down the other side will work fine and maybe make your garden more interesting. From ground level a 10' screen half way down will cover 20' at the end etc. If you are trying not to see these houses from your 1st floor viewpoint or your house is much higher then you do have a problem, but the more you "confuse" the view the less you will notice them.  Good luck.

burnt paper

Posted: 07/02/2013 at 23:37

Why would you want to put ash in pots? Most papers these days have all sorts of chemical fillers that may or may not harm your plants in such a closed space, so why chance it. If you can see the individual fibres in the paper when you look at it closely then it may be mostly cellulose, i.e. plant fibres, but if it is glossy and shiny like plastic sheet then it is heavily coated or treated with  fillers or resins. You can always shred it manually or mechanically, and put it on your compost heap or your green waste bin, where the dilution will minimise any chemical effects.

Plants between concrete path and wall

Posted: 07/02/2013 at 23:18

It depends what you mean by very shallow soil. What is under that soil? Solid concrete that won't drain properly, or just sand stones and gravel etc.? If the last then Leggi has the best approach; use easy alpines or bulbs. If you know nothing about alpines just look in the garden centre. Anything you get a lot of for your money is an easy alpine in general. Sempervivum, Sedum, Erinus, Dianthus, Campanula, Armeria (Thrift) etc. Several small bulbs should be OK, such as Grape hyacinths, crocus, snowdrops, the smaller alliums (onions) eg. chives or ornamental speacies. Maybe liriope or some of the coloured leaf sedges. Just look for the smaller grass like plants in plant sales.

Talkback: Evicting a rat

Posted: 18/01/2013 at 18:20

The best rat deterrent is a rat catching dog; Jack Russells are good. I have had to reduce my bird feeding too, and put trays under all the feeders. Suitably modified pot dishes work well and are cheaper than purpose made types, but they encourage pigeons so a cylinder of clematis netting is also added. Blackbirds still get at the seed ok; and a squirrel sometimes unfortunately. A finer metal mesh would help but stop the blackbirds too.

Talkback: Making a stumpery

Posted: 18/01/2013 at 17:46
I would like to do something like this in a new garden but am worried that it will encourage honey fungus, which I seem to have in one area. I read online that the best way to discourage honey fungus is to make sure the stumps are infected with another fungus first, as the first one there generally wins. Is there an easy way to do this other than drilling holes and buying prepared fungus plugs. Is painting the logs with mashed up/liquified fungus another option? My local greengrocer has quite a range.

Design of my wood greenhouse

Posted: 17/01/2013 at 21:00

And not a single piece of aluminum (aluminium), in the Saguenay? Been there several times.

Echino Cactus Grusonii

Posted: 17/01/2013 at 20:34

Almost indestructable. Mine is 30 years plus. Hardly ever watered.

Best Base for Greenhouse?

Posted: 17/01/2013 at 20:04

I would use the paving slabs for the path for you. A dwarf wall of on edge concrete walling blocks, or bricks if you prefer, would increase the head height and volume (growing space) of your greenhouse. You could use pressure treated timber, or sleepers, instead if you accept a shorter life. A completely solid floor inside has something to recommend it giving freedom from slugs, snails, worms etc. and can keep the humidity down in winter, but I would use very coarse sand. It drains well, it will wick away excess water from pots by proper contact with the compost in the pots, something gravel does very poorly. If you want to grow plants in the ground then you treat it like the garden, accepting it may need refreshing from time to time, or treating for bugs or diseases. Grow bags or large pots or raised beds, on a concrete base sort of give you the best (or worst?) of both systems.

Discussions started by trillium2cv

Blippar for Tablets and Phones

Replies: 12    Views: 768
Last Post: 01/03/2014 at 10:31

Talkback: Autumn crocus pot display

Looks a funny autumn crocus to me. More like Pickwick. 
Replies: 6    Views: 431
Last Post: 07/09/2013 at 12:39

Talkback: How to plant gladioli corms

I don't know who prepares these articles but if the corms are 6" deep in the picture then they are truly massive corms and the hand is sever... 
Replies: 3    Views: 615
Last Post: 28/08/2014 at 13:37
3 threads returned