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trillium2cv


Latest posts by trillium2cv

Bulb compost

Posted: 19/09/2013 at 21:01

Do you mean "bulb compost" or "bulb fibre"? The latter has little or nothing to feed a bulb for future growth. Bulb compost may just be repackaged ordinary compost with or without higher phosphorus to promote bulb growth.

Finish the pond now or in the spring?

Posted: 19/09/2013 at 20:44

I needed several cubic yards of soil to shape a new drive bank entrance, so I now have a ~12' diameter by 2' deep hole in the garden. Over winter and maybe by next spring I will have a pond. I bought a small glass fibre pond on ebay for a header tank into which I will run the rain-water from a downpipe, this will "appear" to run down a stream and into the new hole. At least that's the plan. Always had a pond in another garden but never this large. Main problems are the slope in the garden, and the flints in the soil and protecting the liner. Lots of old carpet and sand I think.

If you buy plants now Sara get a good deal. Nuseries can't get rid of them quick enough this time of the year, but don't expect them to grow. I am going to wait until early spring or just sit plants bought now in tubs etc. Don't pull plants apart now, the roots won't like it. Tub- trugs are great for storing wet pots in with the minimum protection over winter. They won't need any light if no leaves. Or for marginals just drop them in the edge of the pond as you buy them, and lift and pot properly in spring.

Snowdrops

Posted: 19/09/2013 at 20:16

Bulbs are best, BUT only if you get them in early summer soon after they have gone dormant. "In the green" you always damage some roots and they take a year or so to recover, unless they are a clump from a neighbour and you just transplant intact, or you take very great care separating and water in as you plant. Bulbs that have dried in the garden centre are very hit and miss. Just buy as soon as they appear and hope for the best, or buy from a snowdrop freak, who hopefully will do the right thing. Pots are OK for a start but get them in the garden as soon as you can for the next season. They rot very easily in poorly drained pots.

Silver birch groups

Posted: 19/09/2013 at 18:32

blairs is correct in his first sentence. Just look at the google images in http://tinyurl.com/pgrgdf8 and decide what effect you want. Planting close together, i.e. less than a metre, will give a multistemmed effect, quicker than buying that type of tree which can be very expensive. Close planting limits the growth of each tree unless you have very rich soil and moisture, and very good light, but if you want to walk between them then 1 metre is the minimum, and 2 is better. Note they are surface rooting and very little grows between them well.

Talkback: Autumn crocus pot display

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 17:58
Looks a funny autumn crocus to me. More like Pickwick.

low-hedging

Posted: 15/08/2013 at 19:33

This website is as good as any for advice http://www.ashridgetrees.co.uk/ but I have never bought from them. I guess your problem is the height limitation. Box and Lonicera are the usual dwarf/small leaved varieties used for short hedges, it depends on what type of hedge you want. Even step-over apples will produce one, if you like this sort of thing, and you can make one from just a few trees if you have the patience.

runner-bean-help

Posted: 15/08/2013 at 19:08

It is my worst year too for setting. Only in the last week have I been picking beans. I pinch mine out to make them branch and initially keep the height down but am not aware this has any effect on flowers setting which is the problem. Plenty of bees around and I have not seen any using the "back door", which is often mentioned. I have not seen any beetles but will check again more closely. The variety can effect this problem too, as a neighbours beans have been producing for several weeks.

I want to hide the houses at the end of the garden

Posted: 02/05/2013 at 20:45

The thing to remember is not to try and build a barrier at your boundary. A small tree/screen 1/3 way down one side and another tree/screen 2/3 way down the other side will work fine and maybe make your garden more interesting. From ground level a 10' screen half way down will cover 20' at the end etc. If you are trying not to see these houses from your 1st floor viewpoint or your house is much higher then you do have a problem, but the more you "confuse" the view the less you will notice them.  Good luck.

burnt paper

Posted: 07/02/2013 at 23:37

Why would you want to put ash in pots? Most papers these days have all sorts of chemical fillers that may or may not harm your plants in such a closed space, so why chance it. If you can see the individual fibres in the paper when you look at it closely then it may be mostly cellulose, i.e. plant fibres, but if it is glossy and shiny like plastic sheet then it is heavily coated or treated with  fillers or resins. You can always shred it manually or mechanically, and put it on your compost heap or your green waste bin, where the dilution will minimise any chemical effects.

Plants between concrete path and wall

Posted: 07/02/2013 at 23:18

It depends what you mean by very shallow soil. What is under that soil? Solid concrete that won't drain properly, or just sand stones and gravel etc.? If the last then Leggi has the best approach; use easy alpines or bulbs. If you know nothing about alpines just look in the garden centre. Anything you get a lot of for your money is an easy alpine in general. Sempervivum, Sedum, Erinus, Dianthus, Campanula, Armeria (Thrift) etc. Several small bulbs should be OK, such as Grape hyacinths, crocus, snowdrops, the smaller alliums (onions) eg. chives or ornamental speacies. Maybe liriope or some of the coloured leaf sedges. Just look for the smaller grass like plants in plant sales.

Discussions started by trillium2cv

Blippar for Tablets and Phones

Replies: 12    Views: 1026
Last Post: 01/03/2014 at 10:31

Talkback: Autumn crocus pot display

Looks a funny autumn crocus to me. More like Pickwick. 
Replies: 6    Views: 488
Last Post: 07/09/2013 at 12:39

Talkback: How to plant gladioli corms

I don't know who prepares these articles but if the corms are 6" deep in the picture then they are truly massive corms and the hand is sever... 
Replies: 3    Views: 657
Last Post: 28/08/2014 at 13:37
3 threads returned