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Latest posts by trillium2cv

Echino Cactus Grusonii

Posted: 17/01/2013 at 20:34

Almost indestructable. Mine is 30 years plus. Hardly ever watered.

Best Base for Greenhouse?

Posted: 17/01/2013 at 20:04

I would use the paving slabs for the path for you. A dwarf wall of on edge concrete walling blocks, or bricks if you prefer, would increase the head height and volume (growing space) of your greenhouse. You could use pressure treated timber, or sleepers, instead if you accept a shorter life. A completely solid floor inside has something to recommend it giving freedom from slugs, snails, worms etc. and can keep the humidity down in winter, but I would use very coarse sand. It drains well, it will wick away excess water from pots by proper contact with the compost in the pots, something gravel does very poorly. If you want to grow plants in the ground then you treat it like the garden, accepting it may need refreshing from time to time, or treating for bugs or diseases. Grow bags or large pots or raised beds, on a concrete base sort of give you the best (or worst?) of both systems.


Posted: 20/12/2012 at 20:18

A properly potted Christmas tree

Greenhouse size?

Posted: 29/11/2012 at 21:00

Shape, and construction, and position is very important. YOU will need the same space in it however wide it is. Assuming square or rectagonal, A 2 foot path for you, will leave more room for plants in an 8' wide than 6' wide. Similarly 4'6" high at the sides gives room for a bench and shaded room under for resting plants, and maybe a narrow shelf round near the eaves. Put the greenhouse on a 9" concrete block base wall and suddenly you have extra space and light at the sides. If the bench is supported by the greenhouse walls and not on separate legs, as on the old BACo professional range, then the floor underneath is all available. This assumes the greenhouse is in a position with light all round, placed near a fence and down goes your growing space again.

Get the biggest you can afford. 12' x 8' can be less than £100 on Ebay.

Apple trees

Posted: 15/11/2012 at 18:27

We get a lot of swirling winds and bent plants in a very sheltered garden. Unless you are certain you don't, stake it. A stake and strap is cheaper than your tree.

Talkback: How to fit guttering on a greenhouse

Posted: 26/04/2012 at 23:48

Copper and Aluminium are electrochemically not compatible. I.e. the aluminium will corrode quickly in contact with copper. Not a good idea. Otherwise I agree with you. Just use aluminium alloy for the brackets where possible, or insulate the metals from each other with plastic, or possibly paint the copper to minimise metallic contact between the two.


Posted: 12/02/2012 at 15:27

Amaryllis/Hippeastrum are very variable when bought "new". I bought 2 before Christmas and 1 has had 3 flower stems (1 with 11 flowers) 1 after the other, but no leaves yet, and the other no flowers but now has 6 leaves. Basically keep it warm and just moist in a good light until you are sure it is well rooted, and it will either produce more flower stems or long leaves. Then water and feed occassionally with a high potash (e.g. tomato) fertiliser building up a bigger and fatter bulb for next season. Normally they go dormant in the summer and the old leaves are cut off to tidy the plant, but this is not strictly necessary. Like florists cyclamen you can keep them green all year round if you want.


Posted: 12/02/2012 at 15:12

I buy GW magazine too, but equally I good read it for nothing at my local library, where there are numerous gardening books; all free to read or borrow. Buy a copy if you find them helpfull and want a permanent reference.

AND join your local gardening clubs, and talk to people.

Dahlia Tubers

Posted: 09/02/2012 at 23:28

They won't take much frost if they are just bare tubers. I hope your shed is reasonably frost free. In this weather it is better to put them in a box, cardboard will do, and cover them in dry soiless compost as insulation. A cool but airy place indoors might be better, but they may start shooting which could be a problem for you if you have no greenhouse or cold frame to protect them and give them some light when in growth.

Rose Bed

Posted: 09/02/2012 at 23:00

A couple of questions for you. Do you really want a bed in such a prominent position to be bare earth (or mulch) for about half the year? How important is scent, as dwarf rose plants are difficult to smell? Roses as a rule are not so scented that they fiill the air in an open situation. Flower scents are different things to different noses. I and my wife have been round the garden centre at RHS Wisley twice over the last 2 years checking the scent of their plants for our garden and very few modern roses have a strong scent, even when the labelling recommends them for scent, with 1 great exception, "Gertrude Jekyll". This has a super strong scent, is deep pink, a repeat flowerer, but is quite a vigorous grower. Even in full sun you may have a problem keeping in below 4' or so, and 6' is more likely in my experience. Hard pruning each year will help keep it shorter, and don't feed too much. Personally I would grow it amongst herbaceous plants, maybe clove scented pinks round the edges for more scent, and taller herbaceous plants or sping, summer or autumn bulbs amongst the roses. Hope this helps a bit.

Discussions started by trillium2cv

Blippar for Tablets and Phones

Replies: 12    Views: 707
Last Post: 01/03/2014 at 10:31

Talkback: Autumn crocus pot display

Looks a funny autumn crocus to me. More like Pickwick. 
Replies: 6    Views: 411
Last Post: 07/09/2013 at 12:39

Talkback: How to plant gladioli corms

I don't know who prepares these articles but if the corms are 6" deep in the picture then they are truly massive corms and the hand is sever... 
Replies: 3    Views: 597
Last Post: 28/08/2014 at 13:37
3 threads returned