Latest posts by Verdun


Posted: 20/05/2016 at 17:07

Luke, just let your wallflower be is getting warmer, hopefully drier.  I would not take cuttings from it but it might well recover.

if it does recover look to take cuttings then...maybe 4 weeks or so.  Also look out for replacement plant...they can be cheap...and take cuttings from that

just why your Bowles Mauve now when it has been wet for some time is prob due to it expending energy on flowering

Glyphosate alternative

Posted: 20/05/2016 at 16:55 said it.  glyphosate works.  There is nothing else.  Salt and vinegar very hit and miss and useless on deep rooted weeds.

hands and knees then. Not always easy or practical though and usually leaves an area of bare soil ...even then the weed may grow back again if you haven't got all the root ! 

A flame burner for paths can be effective but needs to be very hot and concentrated.

for me glyphosate is a barely used weedkiller....I use it now and then for dandelions and fhe like...but heavy mulching on borders is very effective

nothing is proven about glyphosate.  It's about being sensible and making choices 

Lupins i a south facing circle in the middle of my garden.

Posted: 20/05/2016 at 16:36

A circle of lavendar would look great Treza.  

Lupins easily get battered esp when in full flower.  You would need to stake them well.  They are martyrs to aphids and then to snails....they look awful after flowering with mostly tatty leaves so bear this in mind.  Currently one of my lupins is over 3' tall and will be staked before any strong winds arrive.

colour is good but don't throw masses of different colours at it.  

Dwarf evergreen grasses would look good too.....festucas with their evergreen blue leaves and movement.  

dwarf hebes, euonymous emerald and gold, pittosporum Tom Thumb are all sun loving wind resistant and colourful evergreens.  A phormium like Sundowner or Cream Delight would add a focal point of colour too.  

I would also look at hardy blues and whites, veronicas in blues, whites and reds.  Mounds of silver foliage from artemisia powys colour, or convolvulous  cneorum or santolinas would love the sun and wind.  

If you want to ring the changes consider marguerites and cosmos....pinched back to make them sturdy cosmos will flower their socks off until late autumn


Posted: 20/05/2016 at 16:21

Pinkpenny, photinia is a fickle plant.  A lot of people have had lots of problems with it including me. Eleagnus can be a bit thuggish.  It would be an expensive mistake if you planted photinia for it then to deteriorate and it often does.  I had 3 and they are all gone...ditto a friend of mine.  Similarly with many on the forum. 

yew is the best...not so slow either. gold or green. . Golden privet is lovely...despite being a privet...and lonicera Baggesons Gold is superb.   This is a low maintenance olive coloured turning yellow in summer shrub, easily kept to any size or shape.  

Good luck Pinkpenny 

My Perfumed Bristol Garden in 2016.

Posted: 20/05/2016 at 16:12

Excellent Marion.  

I know what you mean about the scents right now too 

What is wrong

Posted: 20/05/2016 at 16:08

Alfiethomas hi

when you repot use a john innes soil based ericaceous compost not the ericaceous multi purpose compost. It makes a big difference.   Ask at the garden centre if you are unsure.  

Is talking aloud madness?

Posted: 20/05/2016 at 13:19


Plants (In Pots)

Posted: 20/05/2016 at 13:17

Sorry sneaked in there whilst I wasn't looking 

Plants (In Pots)

Posted: 20/05/2016 at 13:15


I will make a start then......phormiums, although not tropical, look tropical and grow well in pots.  Red, green and yellow varieties.

cannas...superb from mid summer onwards.  Again check out foliage colours in Tropicanna Black, Pretoria, Durban etc.  Flowers 7' or more. Aeoniums, agaves, echeverrias, diosmas all thrive in dry conditions.  

colocasia black black as a plant can be.  Needs a deep saucer under your pot.  Check out a classy grass, hackonechloa.   In a pot it is superb.  Forms a mound that then cascades making a shimmering, moving in the slightest breeze, effect.  Yellow leaves suffused with orange and red tints but again place a saucer under the pot.  Many grasses will grow well in pots...miscamthus, deschampsias, festucas, and stipas all add movement and class.    houttynia chameleon....NEVER PUT THIS IN THE GROUND....looks psychadelic in a pot.  Red, pink,,yellow, orange and green leaves topped with orange scented flowers in summer.  Another for a saucer. 

tree ferns, if you can locate a reasonably sheltered spot there.  Hedychiums...gingers....will grow in large pots and look very tropical. 

can I offer a word of caution re membrane?  It is difficult to move plants later and there are other problems with using it.  If you forget the membrane and mulch thickly your plants will thrive.  They will still, eventually, spread beyond their area under membrane.  I have a phlox planted in an area of my garden that I "membraned" a few years ago.  It has now grown a metre or so away from initial plant...the membrane does break up eventually.  My view is membrane looks ugly, is ugly and restrictive.

Weeds will still grow over membrane.  Roots will spread under and over it and with great vigour to get to the light.  

Hostas and ferns will grow well in the ground as well as in pots.  Foliage colour from acteas if in the ground or convolvulous cneorum in pots (silver velvety foliage with pure white glistening flowers and need very little attention)  sedums like Posties Pride or Purple Emporor will give you almost evergreen purple succulent looking foliage 

burying pots in the ground doesn't kill the plants.  They just don't grow as well and need more maintenance, watering and care. 

Choose your plants with care....research which of them will be invasive if planting in the ground.  

A thick mulch creates a healthy soil too and looks so good

anyway hope some of this helps 

Is talking aloud madness?

Posted: 20/05/2016 at 12:43

Ha ha PP ...thats great 

stevo.......don't beat yourself up over it.  

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