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Latest posts by Zoomer44


Posted: 02/09/2013 at 21:09

I've only eaten my Winston, Pentland Javelin and Red Duke of York, I've three more varieties left in their bags yet to be dug up - Estima, Wilja and Desire. 

For grow bags the first three have done well for size and produced a reasonable crop, Red Duke York's my favourite, makes nice chips and mashes well. I had some huge Winston spuds and Pentland Javelin were nice and tasty. Have no complaints with any of the varieties.     

What's best to grow know

Posted: 02/09/2013 at 20:50

No reason why you can't grow flowers in raised beds over winter. I grew on biennials in one of mine, them after transplanting them into flower beds in the Spring gave the bed a good mulch of home grown compost before planting veg. I followed flowers with courgettes and am having a bumper crop


Posted: 02/09/2013 at 00:52

fg...biggest CROC I've seen was in a GC, a couple of inches across, orange and made from clay 


Posted: 01/09/2013 at 22:37

Good luck and happy growing. The small wooden one's are reasonably priced and a good starter. Let us know how you get on, if you like it I may replace my 4 tired plastic grow house with one or two


Posted: 01/09/2013 at 21:24

I was thinking of something witty to say too fb 

Growing organically from seed & container gardening

Posted: 01/09/2013 at 21:11

You can probably grow most veg in pots but, in terms of crop size and harvest, some veg does do better in the ground.

Spuds in bags, salad leaves and herbs do well in pots, radish, spring onions, spinach and chad do well in troughs. Dwarf varieties of pea's and beans do well in pots , the taller varieties although they can be grown in pots, grow well in the veg plot and take up little ground space.

Brassicas like broccoli, brussels, cabbage and cauli like to deep root and if you only have one veg bed, take up alot of space and need a long growing season, so are not really suitable for pots or small spaces. Calabrese matures early though. I've always grown it in a veg bed, and, just one or two plants, but it's a good cropper, once the head has been taken off it will produce lots of tiny off shoots, maybe worth a try in a pot.   

Roots like beetroot and carrots do well in pots,they mature relatively quickly and can be picked small.    

Outdoor bush toms do well in hanging baskets or pots raised off the ground but need to be kept somewhere warm before planting out time.    

Stuff in pots needs to be watered regularly and the compost shouldn't be allowed to dry out but kept moist otherwise the veg/herb will bolt or simply dies. Where you are only growing one plant in the pot like toms, a layer of gravel or stones helps to stop the compost from drying out, when it's hot and sunny. I've also put in a layer of gravel for beans and pea's grown in pots.     

Blueberries do well in pots too but need the right compost. 

Happy gardening     

Today I feel so happy....

Posted: 30/08/2013 at 21:21

I'm pleased, there's been blooming flowers in the garden since crocus came up in February...that doesn't sound quite right  

I've over planted mega style this year in a new flower bed, without realising how much room some plants would need or the height they would reach, you live and learn...nothing ventured nothing gained...Zoomer makes a mental note to read all the information on seed packets next year...and not just buy seeds because she likes the picture on the's all good happy gardener  .

Wood lice

Posted: 29/08/2013 at 22:51

Maud. Woodlice do only eat plant debris and stick to stuff on the ground. Have you seen woodlice in your GH.

I'm happy to be wrong but would have thought it a tad bit hot for them in there at this time of year and they are not known to be climbing insects so it's unlikely they would climb up the tom plants onto fruit.  

It could be caterpillars.

Replace conifers with fruit trees?

Posted: 29/08/2013 at 22:33

I'ts hard work.

I cut down two conifers as tall as the house some years ago. You'll need to cut the tree down first but leave enough of the stump for leverage to loosen the roots when pulling it up, at least 3ft of stump.

I cut all the branches off a few at a time into managable sizes. The roots go deep and are spread out so expect to dig a hole around the bottom of the tree at least two foot from the stump all the way round. It seems alot but makes it easy when you try to get the stump and roots out. If you can dig a bigger hole do so.  

Then dig down to uncover as much of the roots as you can. A fork will help loosen the soil and a spade to get the soil out of the hole but I took to using a hand trowel to get at the roots lower down. You'll still find some thick roots, use the stump as a level to rock the remaining plant which will help to loosen the roots further. Any thick roots can be cut with a saw close to the rim of the hole.

The more of the roots you can dig out the better the ground will be for,planting anything new.    

The ground is likely to be very dry where the conifers grew and so digging in a lot of well rotted manure will give new plants a good start. I'm sure another poster can help with advise about planting fruit tree's.     

Good luck


Moving Black currant bush

Posted: 29/08/2013 at 21:36

Agree with BTG and will second how incredibly easy they are to grow from hard wood cuttings. I took some cuttings last year, six to a 6' pot aftet dipping in rooting powder, half have rooted. They are still quite small but have leaves and look heathly. They don't need any TLC just regular watering to stop the pots drying out. I brought the pots into the GH when the weather started to get cold and put them back out in Spring.  

Why not take some cuttings before moving as a back up, you've nothing to lose and could end up with several plants.   

Discussions started by Zoomer44

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Something has been eating my chillies and toms...

Something has been nibbling at my chillies and toms...  
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