Latest posts by Zoomer44

Sweet corn problems...

Posted: 11/06/2014 at 23:58

I had 15 healthy seedlings, doing well in the GH and potted them up because it was to early to plant out and their roots were growing through the bottom of the modules.

After a week, due to the recent warm weather, I started to moved them in and out of the GH to harden off. Within 24 hours one seedling turned brown from the centre of it's leaves...it has withered and died. A 2nd one has followed. I've planted the others out on the allotment, they still look healthy but smaller than other's planted out by allotmenteers. 

Q is...I'm hoping the two seedlings withered and died due to hardening off...or are the other plants going to wither and die too...due to a virus or other nastie...    

Sowing parsnips....

Posted: 11/06/2014 at 23:06

Parsnips were sown on the allotment several weeks ago, I made a hole filled it with compost then planted two seeds in each station. It's difficult now, to know if they've germinated because of all the tiny weeds growing in the compost.

Was thinking of digging the area over and trying again but this time putting a jam jar over the seeds so at least the spot where they were planted is marked or is it too late to sow parsnips....  

The difficulty is parsnip seedlings look like annual weed seedlings...

1st & 2nd Earlies

Posted: 11/06/2014 at 22:15

As KEF says spuds do store better in paper bags or hessian sacks. I tend not to grow enough for them to last till April, ate the last of mine in January and the last bag was emptied in October.

I still have some 2nd earlies chitting from January this year as there wasn't enough room to plant them out.

1st & 2nd Earlies

Posted: 10/06/2014 at 23:27

I grew spuds in bags for several years and would by now be delving into the bags to see if they were big enough for eating but grew them on an allotment for the first time this year.

It's ever so tempting to start digging up, my first earlies are at the same stage as yours although some haven't flowered yet. The second earlies are also beginning to flower......

Start digging one plant up at a time at the beginning of a row, that's my plan this weekend and if happy with the size I was going to dig up a full row, they store well in the ground and in bags after harvesting...that's if kept in the dark and don't start sprouting for a couple of months, 1st and 2nd earlies won't store like main crop though... 

Nasturtium leaves yellowing

Posted: 10/06/2014 at 21:50

To add....pick off the yellowing leaves, I've had the same problem. It's nothing to worry about.  

Help Red Beetles

Posted: 10/06/2014 at 21:28

...the vacum cleaner sounds a good solution...quick and effective 

new allottment

Posted: 09/06/2014 at 20:35

phillipa - I'm on my second dig in parts of the growing area...it was quite hard the first time but I look upon it as a 'green gym'... the annual subscription is alot cheaper than a normal gym and I've carried on going... 

I speak with spade in my hand...

new allottment

Posted: 09/06/2014 at 16:22

Sounds like you've made a good start. The second time you dig the area it should  be alot easier than the first time.

Drainage issues

Posted: 08/06/2014 at 00:04

 This maybe helpful - can't do the link but a guy called Rickvanman has problems with drainage on his allotment site.

If you can find - Rick's allotment - A look back at 2013. One year in 30 mins - shows what he did to address a water logged pitch.   



new allottment

Posted: 07/06/2014 at 23:06

I'm in the by hand group too, the reality is you will need to dig the plot over anyway so pull the weeds out whilst digging over. Use a spade it's easier than a fork.  

I recently got a plot in February, the brambles were visible but the weeds didn't start growing until April, so got ahead start .

The plot was partially covered in black plastic which I was advised had acted as a giant propogator for weeds, the advise was good and I soon discover a labarith of roots so be mindful about laying plastic for too long a period, on a positive note roots will grow close to the surface and come out easy if the area covered has been roughly dug and heaps of muck put on top and unless you have something to plant covering stops the weeds from growing.      

Know your weed roots. I mainly had brambles, bindweed, couch grass and horsetail.

If you dig out the crown of a bramble you've killed it, the roots are none productive and will rot in the ground. Bindweed has white roots, the deeper roots are tinged orange. Couch grass are white, tough and stringy. Horsetail are black and the hardest to see.

I try to be organic but painted Roundup on tree trunk stumps and bindweed under a fruit tree. Bindweed growing up the rabbit proof fence is also destined for a treatment of Roundup . Roundup takes at least six weeks to be effective, you need to wait for it to reach the roots.  At this time using this method wouldn't be a solution if you want to start growing stuff this side of August.

Burning surface weeds/grass will also kill the roots in some cases. If you have a lot of stuff to burn build a bonfire over a patch of weeds.     

Discussions started by Zoomer44

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I planted about 18 crowns in March..  
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Can they be used as a mulch round blueberry bushes. 
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Weed wands...

Do any posters use them... 
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Poorly dwarf apple tree

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1 to 15 of 89 threads