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The problem looks worse than it is. Miniscule mites secrete chemicals that cause blistering or blotches on the new leaves, which gradually turn blackish-brown. Although the mites breed prolifically, producing several generations over summer

the problem long-term but deals with the aphids in the short-term.Spray the tree with thiacloprid the moment you spot any aphids. Small numbers are far more easily tackled than large, rapidly multiplying infestations.apples, crab apples, cotoneaster, hawthorn

on infected stems and branches. The most serious consequence of scab is reduced vigour of the trees caused by early leaf fall. This may limit the crop of fruit. The disease also causes scabs on the skins of fruit, although they are still edible. A preventative

by the maggot-like caterpillar will be seen, lined with its droppings or frass.Remove infected fruit as soon as any damage is evident to limit overwintering caterpillars. Control is available in the form of pheromone traps that catch male moths in April and May

the emerging aphids. Don't wait for the symptoms to appear, as there's no point in spraying once the leaves have become puckered.blackcurrants, redcurrants, whitecurrants early to mid-winter, springCommon garden pests affecting fruit treesWolly aphids on apple

green beetles and their and fat, black grubs.Mint is a prolific plant, so there's no need to control the beetles. If you're worried, you could try growing pennyroyal, Mentha pulegium as a sacrificial crop, or simply remove beetles and larvae by hand

, sugary substance (called honeydew) which encourages the growth of a fungus called sooty mould. Early summer is the best time to tackle the problem, when the newly hatched insects are crawling around looking for a place to feed and settle

persimilis on to your plants. Alternatively, use sprays containing, fatty acids or plant oils.houseplants, greenhouse plants, also outdoors on fuchsias, runner beans, busy lizzies, grape vinesall year roundMore common garden pestsMealybugsScale insectsWhiteflyThrips