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. It is time to bounce into 2010 with a light step and the feeling that valleys can be crossed in a single bound.Many people will have decided that the time has come to start growing their own vegetables. All those excellent Gardeners World projects and blogs

and that sour smell that haunts institutional kitchens. But I leap to defend purple sprouting broccoli (very classy), red cabbage (with cloves and bacon) and the white curds of cauliflowers.The beetroot used to be considered rather dodgy when it was only