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and removing algae from between the panes, using a combination of strong water jets and a slim piece of plastic cut from a margarine tub. Then, having finally cleared the last of the tomatoes from the bed, I removed any lurking traces of grey mould from

Home-grown fruit is something I find difficult to resist; fruit trees make great ornamental, as well as edible, plants. I’ve notice that some of my espalier and cordon fruit trees are passed their best, so I’ll have to remove them. This always makes

woody I’ll check the wires more regularly and make sure I remember how quickly plants grow in warm and wet conditions.It’s definitely worth checking the wires on any staked fruit trees, as if left too long they can kill or seriously deform the tree

, shears at the ready! The shears moment I see the first signs of blight, I'll be out there like a woman crazed, chopping off the haulms. I'll just remove those that show the tell-tale grey brown blotches at first, but unfortunately the neighbouring

to deteriorate. If the rot has already started then I remove the flower as soon as possible. Caught before the brown rotting spreads to the fruit-end of the flower, you can invariably stop the problem ruining the fruit itself. It doesn't take long and makes all

pots and flower beds, keep an eye out for slug and snail eggs, plus leatherjackets (the larvae of crane flies, pictured, left), chafer grubs and vine weevil larvae. Removing these pests now will save you time (and your crops) later, and the birds

fruits go mouldy very quickly if it rains.Whether you eat affected fruits or not is up to you. But it’s important to remove infested fruits immediately, to reduce the likelihood of infestation next year. Being an organic gardener, I don’t use pesticides

 I've never been able to grow a halfway decent crop of either of the two brassicas I do like: broccoli and cauliflower. But now I have managed it, and I'm so impressed with the results I feel inclined to boast!This year, I grew 'Ironman', an F1 variety