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The John Innes Horticultural Institute was founded in 1904, 'for the improvement of horticulture by experiment and research'. It was set up with money bequeathed by a London businessman of Scottish descent.John Innes composts were developed

soils in sun or part shade.  If you improve your clay with plenty of garden compost or leaf mould they should do fine.    I've recently planted some in fertile loam on a clay sub soil in full sun and it's doing OK.  They spread best via their roots

) What else can I add to the existing soil to improve it? thanks Kel

to improve the shape of the tree by creating hoops of branches. This can be done by Check this out ? Thanks Brumbull I've seen it done in orchards - if I remember correctly they were plum trees - branches weighted down to promote development of fruiting

of gravel to improve drainage,hopefully this will work but time will tell. Thanks very much, I'll give it a go..

to remove the smaller stones?, then what else to do please. builders rubble is the worse, it will burn the roots of plants including grass make sure all rubble is removed I would leave the small stones as it will improve drainage as long as no cement

this link might help; http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Fertiliser/Fertiliser.htm Liquid growmore from memory is a balanced fertiliser 7:7:7, whereas 6X is a high nitrogen fertiliser (6:4:3) and horse manure is a soil improver. OK it will contain

improves drainage, when in fact it impedes drainage. Have they never heard of a perched water table? The best explanation of this I have seen is in this article by Paul Cumbleton at RHS Wisley http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/pbs/2007-February/016272.html

as it helps to retain water as well as stopping weeds. I used it there in a friend's garden putting down a thick layer under her poor soil. It worked very well as a soil improver as well as water retainer and weed preventer Thanks Oak, I'll do that if it ever

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