BBC Gardeners World Magazinehttps://www.gardenersworld.com2026-08-05T13:17:07.000Zhourly12000-01-01T12:00+00:00Six scenic rail journeys that put nature front and centrehttps://www.gardenersworld.com/travel/scenic-rail-journeys-that-put-nature-front-and-centre/2026-06-16T13:30:25.000ZTravelling by train opens up a whole world of rewarding and enriching exploration. Here, the journey becomes part of the holiday, with the chance to sit back, relax, eat and drink at leisure, and enjoy ever-changing views of the passing landscape. Train routes offer a feast for nature- and plant lovers, often offering access through areas that cars cannot reach, and a with a wealth of opportunities to hop off and explore.
The immersive nature of rail travel is slower, greener, and infinitely more relaxing than being behind the wheel of a car. From short city hops to mountain railways and routes that span continents, there’s a whole world of opportunities to take.
Here are five of our top rail routes for nature- and garden lovers.
The Tamar Valley line
What: a hidden gem on the boundary of Devon and Cornwall, this 24km branch line is a delight at any time of year but is at its best in February and March, when the Tamar Valley becomes a feast of spring blooms. Over a hundred years ago, this once-bustling market garden region was renowned for its cut flowers. The flower fields were cleared to grow wartime food but the bulbs thrown onto hedge banks continue to thrive today. This means wildflowers are complemented by a feast of daffodils. The National Trust’s garden at Cotehele has wonderful displays of historic varieties and holds an annual Daffodil Festival in March. Why not jump off at Bere Ferrers, Bere Alston, and Calstock (for Cotehele) to explore?
Runs from/to: Plymouth to Gunnislake. Travel to Plymouth on the Great Western Railway main line that runs from London Paddington to Penzance (less than four hours from London)
Best time to go: February to May
Journey time: up to 45 minutes
Cost: £8.30 off-peak day return
Book tickets: gwr.com
The West Highland line
What: discover the sweeping landscapes of the Scottish Highlands on the journey from the city of Glasgow to the coast of western Scotland. There’s a choice of destinations to either of the two ferry ports Oban or Mallaig, both jumping-off points to the many beautiful islands of Skye, the Small Isles, and the Inner and Outer Hebrides. Leaving the city and the industrial landscape of the River Clyde behind, you’re surrounded by mountains, valleys and lochs, fringed by heather moors that become a sea of purple in summer. Beyond the Highland town of Fort William and the jumping-off point for Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest mountain, the route passes over the spectacular Glenfinnan Viaduct, which was made famous in the Harry Potter films, travelled by the Hogwarts Express. Along the route there are many opportunities to disembark and explore – the region is a paradise for hillwalkers and nature-lovers alike. Hop off at Arrochar or Tarbert to enjoy a cruise on Loch Lomond, or wander the beautiful beaches and loch shores around Arisaig, famous as the location for the film ‘Local Hero’.
Runs from/to: Glasgow to Mallaig or Oban
Best time to go: late spring to autumn
Journey time: to Oban, 3 hours 20 minutes. Mallaig 5 hours 30 minutes
Cost: from £33.40 (single)
Book tickets: scotrail.co.uk
New Zealand’s TranzAlpine train
What: the Southern Alps form a rugged spine to the South Island of New Zealand, and this incredible 229km route runs right across the centre of the island, offering breathtaking scenery. Starting from Christchurch, the train runs across the Canterbury Plains to the mountains, along the snow-fed bright blue Waimakariri River that first forms a spectacular gorge and later opens to a wide vista of braided channels with the mountains behind. Crossing bridges and viaducts, and running through the 8km long Otira Tunnel, this route is a wonder of engineering. If weather permits, move to the open-air viewing carriage for a truly immersive travel experience. The mountain station of Arthur’s Pass gives access to splendid hiking and the chance to see New Zealand’s mountain flowers, many of which are endemic – meaning they are found nowhere else on Earth. The last section of the route passes through lush alpine beech forests and descends to terminate at the old mining town of Greymouth on the rugged west coast.
Runs from: Christchurch to Greymouth
Best time to go: late spring to early autumn (December to March)
Journey time: 5 hours
Cost: from £108 (single)
Book tickets: railnewzealand.com/train-services/the-tranz-alpine
Crossing Australia from coast to coast
What: one of the world's great rail journeys, the Indian Pacific travels 4,000km across Australia, linking Sydney and Perth in a four-day transcontinental adventure. The route passes through the Blue Mountains, the rolling vineyards of South Australia and the vast, treeless Nullarbor Plain, revealing an ever-changing tapestry of forests, farmland, desert and outback. Along the way, off-train experiences offer the chance to immerse yourself in some of Australia's most extraordinary natural landscapes, from ancient bushland to wide-open plains beneath vast star-filled skies.
Runs from: Perth to Sydney
Best time to go: March to May or September to November.
Journey time: Four days, three nights.
Book tickets: journeybeyond.com
Slovenian wildflowers by train
What: nestled between Austria, Italy, Croatia, and Hungary, the country of Slovenia is just the size of Wales but packs in a marvellous variety of scenery, from sparkling lakes and emerald rivers to the dramatic mountains of the Julien Alps. The flora is extraordinarily rich and diverse, from traditionally managed hay meadows to abundant mountain wildflowers. Head to the region of Bohinj, famous for its botanical abundance and diversity, celebrated in the annual International Wildflower Festival which offers a programme of tours, flower-based events, and culinary experiences, over two weeks in late May and early June. Travel by train from the charming pocket-sized capital city of Ljubljana. International trains to Slovenia offer several options, with lines running from Zurich, Stuttgart, Vienna, Venice, and Trieste. For a flight-free trip that takes less than 24 hours from the UK, take the Eurostar from London to Paris, change for Stuttgart and take the sleeper train to Ljubljana.
Route: Ljubljana to Bohinjska Bistrica
Best time to go: May-July
Journey time: approx. 2 hours
Cost: from £8.35 single
Book tickets: potniski.sz.si
The bulb fields of the Netherlands
What: Each spring millions of visitors from around the world are drawn to the Netherlands to marvel at the fields of tulips and other spring bulbs that cover vast expanses of land, along with numerous floral displays in cities, towns, and gardens. Bulbs have been grown in the Netherlands since the 17th century and continue to be produced on a grand scale today. The epicentre of these few blazingly colourful spring weeks is Keukenhof near Amsterdam, a magnificent showcase for the bulb industry that is replanted each autumn with an incredible seven million bulbs. The Netherlands has an efficient network of public transport, so you can enjoy the shimmering colours of the bulb fields from the comfort of your seat, then alight to explore beautiful bloom-packed gardens in picturesque towns and cities. Travel by Eurostar from London St Pancras to Amsterdam in under four hours.
Route: from Amsterdam Central Station, take train 52 to Europaplein then change to the KeukenhofBuzz bus. Other nearby towns with easy access to Keukenhof are Haarlem and Leiden.
Journey time: Under 1 hour
Best time to go: April-May
Cost: from around £35
Book tickets: keukenhof.nl
]]>How to grow and care for nasturtiumshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-nasturtiums/2026-05-27T14:34:28.000ZNasturtiums (Tropaeolum) are one of the quickest and easiest annuals to grow. They produce masses of vividly coloured blooms from midsummer right through to the first autumn frosts in a surprisingly wide range of colours – not just orange, yellow and red but also cream, salmon pink, burgundy and crimson (and often a mix of several of these). Some have attractively marbled or mottled leaves, too.
Nasturtiums are either bushy or dwarf (Tropaeolum minus) or climbers (Tropaeolum majus). Bushy varieties look great in containers and hanging baskets or at the front of a border, while climbing varieties can be trained up wigwams or obelisks and will twine through other plants. These can also be used as ground cover, spreading across gravel or cascading down a slope or bank. Both types grow very well in pots.
Nasturtiums not only look spectacular but the flowers, leaves and seeds are edible, too. They also make good companion plants on the veg patch – the caterpillars of large and small white butterflies feed on the leaves, luring them away from brassicas. Bees love the flowers. Nasturtiums are incredibly easy to grow from seed, making them ideal for beginner gardeners and children. They also make good cut flowers.
Where to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums need sunshine for at least half the day in order to grow well. A free-draining soil is essential; nasturtiums flower best on poor soils. Fertile soil results in lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers and flowers that are buried beneath the foliage.
Grow nasturtiums at the front of a border, up an obelisk, as companion planting on the veg patch or spilling over the edge of raised beds and pots.
Where to buy nasturtium seeds online
When to sow nasturtium
Sow nasturtium seeds under cover from March and outside when the soil has warmed up, from March to May – a late sowing will ensure flowers until the first frosts.
How to sow nasturtium seeds
Sowing nasturtiums in the ground
You can sow nasturtium seeds directly where they are to flower.
- Rake the soil to a fine tilth and make sure it is free of weeds. Water the area before you sow – this will ensure that you don't wash away the seeds once sown
- Sow the seeds 1.5cm deep, around 10cm apart – either push them in with your finger, or use a bamboo cane to make a shallow drill
- Cover the seeds with soil
- Once the seedlings emerge (after about two weeks) thin them to around 30cm apart
You can also simply pop seeds around the garden, where you'd like them to appear – around the edge of raised beds or large pots of bedding, for example.
Sowing nasturtiums in pots
You can also sow nasturtium seeds in pots – this is a good way to get earlier flowers and is a good option if you want to plant up a beautiful container display later in the season. Simply sow one seed per 9cm pot in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill, harden off and plant outside in late spring.
Read our detailed advice on how to sow annual climbers.
How to plant out nasturtiums
If you haven't grown your own plants from seed, you might find small pots of nasturtiums at the garden centre in late spring or early summer that are ready for planting out.
Planting nasturtiums in the ground
Dig a hole that is the same size as the pot your plant was growing in, and plant so that the crown of leaves is at soil level. Water in well.
Planting nasturtiums in containers
Mix two-thirds peat-free multipurpose compost with one third fine gravel or grit, to reduce fertility and ensure good drainage. Again, plant so that the crown of leaves is at soil level and water in well.
In this clip from Gardeners' World, Monty Don arranges plants for a late summer display, with a dramatic purple-leaved Phormium cookianum 'Black Adder' in the centre, lots of magenta-flowered Cosmos bipinnatus 'Dazzler', and four Bidens 'Hawaiian Flare Orange Drop' cascading over the rim, alongside trailing nasturtiums, Tropaeolum majus 'Cherry Rose Jewel'. He also advises on aftercare to keep the display at peak flowering through to late autumn:
View Green Video on the source website
How to care for nasturtium
Nasturtiums are easy to care for and need little maintenance. Plants growing in the ground rarely need watering. Plants growing in containers should be watered to keep the compost evenly moist, but don't feed them. Deadheading will encourage more blooms over a longer period.
Harvesting and storage
Nasturtium leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible. The flowers and young leaves have a peppery taste (nasturtiums are closely related to watercress) and are a great addition to salads. The seed pods can be used as a substitute for capers (they are known as 'poor man's capers'). Pick them when mature but still green, and pickle them in vinegar.
You can collect nasturtium seeds when they're ripe and save them somewhere cool and dry to sow next year. In mild areas, nasturtiums are also likely to self-sow, so you may get seedlings springing up in future years. These can be easily pulled up if not wanted.
Our friends at olive magazine have a range of recipes that incorporate nasturtiums, including pickled vegetables with salted yogurt and pressed tomatoes with whipped goat’s cheese and lovage oil.
Growing nasturtiums: problem solving
Nasturtiums are likely to attract large and small white butterflies (known as cabbage white butterflies) which lay their large greenish eggs on the leaf undersides, which hatch into caterpillars that eat the leaves. This can be useful to deter caterpillars from eating brassica crops but not desirable if you’re growing nasturtiums for flowers. The best method of control is to inspect plants regularly and squash the eggs or young caterpillars, or move them on to plants you don't mind being eaten.
Nasturtiums are also attractive to aphids, particularly blackfly. Again, by planting nasturtiums alongside bean crops you can lure aphids away from your crop, but you may not appreciate aphids on nasturtiums you're growing for leaves and flowers. Spray them off with a jet of water or let ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings remove them for you – all three lay their eggs on aphid colonies and their young quickly eat them up.
Advice on buying nasturtiums
-
Nasturtium seeds are widely available at garden centres and online; for the best selection, look online
-
Choose from bushy or climbing types
-
Young plants are available at garden centres in late spring
Where to buy nasturtium seeds online
Frequently asked questions
Do nasturtiums grow back every year?
Nasturtiums are annual and don't survive winter frosts. However they self seed readily so should grow next year if allowed to develop seed.
What should you not plant next to nasturtiums?
Some gardeners suggest avoiding planting nasturtiums next to brassicas, but this can be useful as you can transfer small and large white caterpillars from the brassicas to the nasturtiums.
Nasturtium varieties to grow
Nasturtium 'Black Velvet'
Tropaeolum minus 'Black Velvet' is a compact nasturtium with velvety dark red flowers. H x S: 30cm x 45cm
Nasturtium 'Phoenix'
Tropaeolum minus 'Phoenix' has flowers with unusual split petals, in shades red, orange and yellow. A bushy variety. Height x Spread: 30cm x 30cm
Nasturtium 'Empress of India'
Nasturtium minus ‘Empress of India’ is a bushy nasturtium with crimson-red flowers and dark leaves. H x S: 25cm x 45cm. 'Princess of India' is a dwarf version.
Nasturtium 'Orange Troika'
Tropaeolum majus 'Orange Troika' is a climbing or trailing variety with vivid orange flowers and marbled foliage. H x S: 30cm x 1.5m
Nasturtium 'Alaska Series'
Nasturtium minus ‘Alaska Series’ produces flowers in yellow, cream, orange and red, shown off against cream and green marbled leaves. Bushy. H x S: 25cm x 45cm.
Nasturtium 'Ladybird'
Tropaeolum minus 'Ladybird' has pretty cream/yellow flowers with deep red spots at the throat. H x S: 30cm x 40cm
Nasturtium 'Baby Deep Rose'
Tropaeolum minus 'Baby Deep Rose' is a compact, bushy variety with deep crimson blooms. H x S: 20cm x 20cm
Nasturtium 'Bloody Mary'
Tropaeolum minus 'Bloody Mary' has splotched and striped flowers in shades deep red, yellow and cream. H x S: 30cm x 60cm
]]>Five budget-friendly hacks to keep rats out of your gardenhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/five-budget-friendly-hacks-to-keep-rats-out-of-your-garden/2026-05-22T08:23:41.000ZRats live almost anywhere in towns, cities, and in the country. While intelligent, they are generally unwelcome in gardens due to the physical damage they cause by gnawing, and because they can carry serious diseases, particularly Weil’s disease, that can transmit to humans.
Because rats are attracted to our gardens by food and cosy places to set up home, just a few simple, cost-free or budget-friendly measures can help to keep them at bay. It's important to be vigilant and deal with rats before they increase in number. Try to avoid putting down rat poison, as the resulting dead rats may be eaten by pets or by carrion-eating wildlife such as hedgehogs, causing sickness or even death.
Remember that good hygiene is hugely important as Weil’s disease transmits from rat urine to humans through broken skin or by being ingested. Wear gloves, wash hands thoroughly after gardening and always protect cuts or abrasions with a suitable dressing.
1. Compost food waste securely
All food waste transforms into wonderful rich garden compost but putting it in an open heap or accessible compost bin can attract rats. Instead, use a rat-proof design specifically designed to take food waste. This could be a solid plastic composter placed on paving slabs or a wormery – those on legs are difficult for rats to get in. Ensure any hatches or lids are tightly closed so rats can’t get their teeth into gaps and gnaw their way in.
2. Stop feeding the birds
Bird food spills from hanging feeders on to the ground, which attracts rats. You can fix a tray to the feeders to catch the spills but bear in mind that rats are agile and can climb into trees, so hang feeders away from stout branches or on free-standing metal supports. However, switching to natural methods of bird feeding, such as growing native plants for caterpillars, leaving seedheads intact and planting berrying shrubs, is better for the birds in the long term, and also doesn't attract rats.
3. Clear away clutter
Rats seem to love undisturbed places to set up home or take shelter, particularly on the ground that’s easy for them to access. Get in the habit of having a regular tidy-up of things like compost bags, pieces of wood and pots. Keeping items off the ground, on racks or shelves, is also a good deterrent.
4. Fortify sheds, decking, and drains
The spaces beneath sheds and decking tend to be dry, snug and enticing to rats, so fix wire mesh or solid planks of wood around the bases to deter entry. Thin wooden shed doors can be nibbled at the corners, so fix metal plates to the bottom door edges. Pay particular attention to drains and ensure covers are tightly fitting, as rats travel along drains and may even be able to access your home.
5. Protect your harvests
Protect growing crops by clearing nearby hiding places, and train fruits like squash, courgette and pumpkin off the ground to make them less accessible. Store harvested fruit in a rat-proof outbuilding.
]]>RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2026: Best in Show and medal winners announcedhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/rhs-chelsea-flower-show-2026-best-in-show-and-medal-winners-announced/2026-05-19T11:19:21.000ZThe medal winners at the 2026 RHS Chelsea Flower Show have been announced. This year's RHS Chelsea Flower Show includes a garden designed to shed light on gynocological cancers, ideas for tranquil spaces and a campaign to protect our countryside. Discover which medals the Show Gardens and designers have been awarded.
Main Avenue gardens and medal results
BEST IN SHOW WINNER: The Campaign to Protect Rural England Garden: ‘On the Edge’
Designed by: Sarah Eberle
Medal: Gold and Best in show
Celebrating the ‘edge lands’ – the rural fringes around towns and cities – the CPRE encourages people to act together to protect and enhance these fragments of countryside that are vital for biodiversity and give access to nature to so many who live in an urban setting. Rich and diverse planting of UK and Ireland natives is framed by drystone walls and surrounds the key feature of a fallen tree sculpted into a guardian figure, representing Gaia or Mother Nature.
Forever home: the garden will be relocated to a regenerated housing development in urban Sheffield.
The Asthma and Lung UK Breathing Space Garden
Designed by: Angus Thompson
Medal: Silver
Designed as a restorative space to breathe to benefit people suffering from lung conditions, the serene woodland-edge themed garden is accessible and therapeutic, to foster recovery along with re-connection with nature. The design incorporates a sheltered platform for breath-focused practices, a still pond for calm reflection, and running water to encourage tranquillity, enhanced by low-allergen planting. Reclaimed and sustainable materials include recycled aluminium oxygen cylinders used as water spouts and channels.
Forever home: the Breathing Space lung rehabilitation centre in Rotherham, as a permanent therapeutic space for people living with lung conditions.
The Children’s Society Garden
Designed by: Patrick Clarke
Medal: Gold
Designed as a peaceful urban sanctuary aimed at supporting the emotional wellbeing of teenagers by creating a feeling of safety and calm, the garden gives a place to connect with each other and to talk to counsellors. Much of the garden’s structure is made from ‘waste’ materials, including a canopy structure with a steel frame, water rills, boundary walls of corrugated iron, paths of reclaimed gravel, and a mosaic feature wall. Plants are chosen for their performance in challenging conditions, in three zones: sun, transitional, and shade.
Forever home: a youth support centre in Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire
The Eden Project: Bring Me Sunshine Garden
Designed by: Harry Holding and Alex Michaelis
Medal: Silver Gilt
Inspired by the landscapes of Morecambe Bay in Lancashire, where the next Eden Project is set to open in 2028, the garden’s design is aimed at encouraging young adults to explore creativity, practical skills, and pathways into the green industries. A solar-powered outdoor classroom structure and rainwater-recycling pool is surrounded by coastal-themed salt tolerant planting as well as ‘useful’ plants such as perennial vegetables and plants for natural dyes. The sustainable design uses reclaimed materials and cement-free shell by-products.
Forever home: Part of a community space at Eden Project Morecambe.
The Killik & Co ‘A Seed in Time’ Garden
Designed by: Baz Grainger
Medal: Gold
The crafts of Britain’s natural wetland heritage and the challenges faced by a changing climate are the inspiration for the theme of this tranquil family retreat. Structures built of traditional materials – straw bales, earth render, and reeds - channel rainwater into a central wetland habitat, surrounded by fruiting trees and naturalistic planting. Boosting biodiversity is a key aim, by introducing different zones to improve species abundance and habitat health.
Forever home: a Centre Point project site in Kennington, London
Lady Garden Foundation ‘Silent No More’ Garden
Designed by: Darren Hawkes
Medal: Gold
With a life-saving aim of breaking down stigma and encouraging discussion about gynaecological cancers, the garden’s design is both intimate and open, providing nooks along with open spaces to foster connection and conversation. The central eye-catching structures echo the ceramic sculptures of Basque artist Eduardo Chillida and five sculptures, surrounding by abundant planting, represent the five cancers: womb, vulval, cervical, vaginal, and ovarian – which claim the lives of 21 women every day in the UK. Shattering the silence will encourage screening, early diagnosis, and treatment.
Forever home: the garden will be relocated to a community outdoor space in Jersey.
Parkinsons UK – A Garden for Every Parkinson’s Journey
Designed by: Arit Anderson
Medal: Silver
Designed as a sanctuary for those who are dealing with the complex and incurable brain condition Parkinson’s, the garden is divided into three zones: calming and restful, uplifting and energising, and nighttime. Each zone reflects the changing symptoms of the condition, with the wooden arch-like shelter is lit at night with low-impact lighting for those suffering from insomnia. Wide, curving paths create an accessible layout with support from a raised rill that does double duty as a handrail. Two-thirds of the plants are chosen to attract pollinators, providing extra interest and boosting biodiversity.
Forever home: the John Radcliffe Hospital in Oxford, a UK Parkinson’s Centre of Excellence.
The Tate Britain Garden
Designed by: Tom Stuart-Smith
Medal: Gold
A new vision of museum gardens that bring together art, nature, and community, along with sustainable landscaping and resilient planting, is offered in this advance peek of the Tate Britain new Clore Garden, which is also being designed by Tom Stuart-Smith. At the heart of the garden is a Barbara Hepworth sculpture Bicentric Form 1949 - the first time a work of art from the national collection has been installed at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. The planting is inspired by East Asian woodlands and uses long-lived, drought-tolerant species that increase biodiversity.
Forever home: incorporated into the new green space on London’s Millbank, which is set to open in 2027.
Tokonoma Garden – Sanumaya no Niwa
Designed by: Kazuyuki Ishihara and Paul Noritaka Tange
Medal: Silver Gilt
Celebrating harmony, family, and community, the garden is designed to evoke the view from a traditional tokonoma, or raised alcove recess, once central to Japanese family life. The garden’s design reimagines the concept for today’s gardens, with a tranquil layout that combines water, stone, moss, ferns, along with restrained planting, to promote calm and contemplation. The larger plants are chosen for their durability and longevity and while relatively few in number, the depth and atmosphere of the design are created by space, height, and foliage tones.
Forever home: venue to be confirmed.
]]>Chelsea Flower Show 2026: get the full rundown so you're in the knowhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/chelsea-flower-show-2026/2026-05-15T08:48:08.000ZThe RHS Chelsea Flower Show is the highlight of the gardening year and a showcase of the best in garden design and horticulture. The show takes place in central London, over five glorious days in May, with a wealth of beautiful plants and gardening trends and inspiration. There are Show Gardens of all sizes, right down to the tiny Balcony and Container gardens. The giant marquee or ‘Great Pavilion’, covering nearly three acres, is horticultural heaven, packed with the world’s best growers and nurseries, floristry and floral art displays, and GreenSTEM, which highlights the latest in horticultural science. Whatever your interest, Chelsea is packed with gardens to admire and ideas to take home.
- Chelsea Flower Show 2026 medal winners
When is the Chelsea Flower Show 2026?
The Chelsea Flower Show takes place from Tuesday 19 to Saturday 23 May 2026. On Tuesday and Wednesday entry is for RHS members only.
Where is the Chelsea Flower Show being held?
The Chelsea Flower Show takes place in the grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea, on the banks of the River Thames. The address is London Gate, Royal Hospital Road, Royal Hospital Chelsea, London SW3 4SR. The What3words reference for the main gate is parent.arena.spider.
Plan your journey using the Transport for London website. The show is 10 minutes walk from Sloane Square tube station. The nearest mainline railway station is London Victoria and car parking (price £49, which must be booked with ticket) is at Battersea, with a shuttle bus running to the showground.
When does the Chelsea Flower Show start?
The Chelsea Flower Show opens at 8am on Tuesday 19 May and starts at the same time every day. Getting to the show as soon as the gates open is well worth the effort, as the first couple of hours tend to be less crowded.
What to expect from the Chelsea Flower Show 2026?
- Chelsea has plenty of take-home inspiration so make sure your phone or camera is fully charged. Take photos of labels as well as actual plants or take a notebook.
- Plants are only available to buy at the grand sell-off which starts at 4pm on the Saturday. Many products and sundries are on sale, though ordering for home delivery will save you carting a heavy load around.
- Chelsea is packed with visitors, which makes comfort the key to enjoying your day to the full. You’ll be on your feet for hours, so comfortable footwear and an easy to carry small rucksack are essential. Check the weather forecast and dress accordingly as the show gardens and many stalls are outdoors.
- Take a water bottle (refill stations are available), energy-rich snacks, plus a picnic if you don’t want to queue for catering – or treat yourself to one of the pre-booked food options.
- If you suffer from hay fever, take suitable medication as the trees around the show ground are loaded with pollen.
How much are Chelsea Flower Show tickets?
Tickets are only available booked in advance via the RHS website.
A full price day ticket for non-RHS members is £137 per person. Cheaper part-day ticket options give entry from either 3.30pm or 5.30pm but do sell out months in advance.
A Saturday ticket, with the show closing at 5.30 pm, is £114. RHS members benefit from significant discounts on ticket prices, plus the first two days are for members only. The Chelsea Flower Show guide (price £18) can be pre-ordered with your ticket and is well worth doing so you can plan your day in advance – there’s so much to see.
]]>Early flowering shrubs to prune now, and how to do ithttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/early-flowering-shrubs-to-prune-now-and-how-to-do-it/2026-05-08T14:09:39.000ZAs soon as the flowers have faded on certain winter and spring-flowering deciduous shrubs, it’s time to break out the pruning tools. Don’t delay, because these shrubs bloom on growth that will be produced during the coming growing season, so leaving this job for longer will compromise the amount and quality of next year’s flowers.
Flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum)
Flowering currant flowers best on wood that's no more than five years old. Cut the bush back by about a quarter, pruning to a bud or near to the ground.
Flowering quince (Chaenomeles)
On shrubs that are trained to grow up walls and fences, cut back all outward-facing shoots to within two to three buds of the previous year’s growth, then tie in new shoots to the support.
Forsythia
Forsythia varieties that grow large, such as ‘Lynwood’, tend to need regular annual pruning. Compact varieties may only need a light prune. Cut flowered shoots back by at least half, and thin growth that has become dense and congested.
Winter heathers (Erica spp.)
Winter heathers tend to become leggy with age. Keep growth bushy and fresh by lightly trimming over the plant, using shears.
Winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima)
Winter honeysuckle is a large deciduous shrub. Remove the oldest stems near to the base of the shrub, to encourage regular production of new and productive growth. If large branches have arched over, prune them back to where younger, vigorous shoots have developed, usually where the stems bend.
Winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum)
Winter jasmine produces lots of thin-stemmed new growth which, if not trimmed, smothers older growth and results in a large, untidy, dead-centred shrub. Prune side shoots back close to the main branches, to where new growth is starting to emerge.
Witch hazel (Hamamelis)
Witch hazel can become straggly. To prevent this, shorten any leggy shoots by cutting back to just above a strong pair of buds. Take care to retain a natural-looking overall shape by varying the length of the pruning cuts.
Tips for success
- Always cut out dead, diseased or damaged material. Once this is out of the way, it’ll be easier to see what formative pruning needs doing.
- Having the right tools, with the blades kept clean and sharp, makes the job so much easier and gives better results, too. A small pruning saw with a curved blade is great for cutting thick stems and is especially good where growth is crowded.
- Loppers are good for medium thick stems, and secateurs for thinner growth. Shears are handy if you have a lot of thin growth to tackle.
]]>Garden job for the weekend: spruce up your garden furniture nowhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/garden-job-for-the-weekend-spruce-up-your-garden-furniture-now/2026-05-08T13:32:37.000ZTake advantage of any spare time in the spring sunshine over the Easter Bank Holiday weekend to give your garden furniture a thorough clean and refresh. Not only will you get your furniture summer ready but you’ll have plenty of time to repair or replace anything if you need to. None of these jobs is difficult and it's worth taking the time now to help your furniture last longer.
Give furniture a spring clean
Start by washing down any furniture that's been outside for winter. Dirt and algae always build up but this year it’s likely to be worse after so many weeks of rain. Either use a proprietary furniture cleaner or mild soapy water and a soft brush. But don’t use a pressure washer as the strong water jet is likely to cause damage.
Rejuvenate wooden furniture
Treat or repaint wooden tables and chairs. Once furniture is clean and thoroughly dry, certain materials benefit from treatment. Softwood furniture should be treated every two to three years using a suitable stain or wood preservative – there’s a wide range of colours to choose from. Good quality teak is unlikely to need treating unless you want a different finish from its natural silvery grey, in which case use teak oil or a wood stain designed for teak.
At the risk of stating the obvious, make sure any stained or painted furniture is completely dry before using. Lower air temperatures in spring means that drying times can take longer than stated on the product description.
Do a safety check
Inspect all your furniture thoroughly for stability, paying particular attention to chair and table legs, which means turning over your furniture to have a good look at where the legs join the seat or top. Check all joints on wooden furniture and tighten any loose screws.
Check plastic furniture for breakages. Be aware that plastic furniture gets brittle with age, especially when exposed to sun. If chairs have discoloured badly, they may be in danger of breaking. Replacing them rather than risking an injury is the safest bet.
Remove rust
Check metal furniture for rust and take special care to check the joints and structure are sound. If rust is only superficial, remove using a wire brush or sandpaper, and then paint if needed with a suitable paint.
Refresh your cushions
Bring cushions and parasols out of storage for a thorough airing. Do this job on a sunny day. Wash the cushions if necessary. Covers that are designed to zip or slip off can usually go in the washing machine on a gentle cycle with a short spin. Similarly, parasols may be able to be taken off their frames for washing. Old, stained, or faded fabric can be given a new lease of life by dyeing it a fresh colour.
Where cushion covers aren’t removable, use a sponge or microfibre cloth to clean with warm water and a detergent designed for hand washing. Take care to avoid saturating the cushions which could be difficult to dry.
]]>Beyond No Mow May: six wildlife wins that last all yearhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/beyond-no-mow-may-six-wildlife-wins-that-last-all-year/2026-05-01T13:18:18.000ZA quiet revolution has been taking place in our gardens since the charity Plantlife started its ‘No Mow May’ campaign back in 2018. The simple aim of getting us to put away our mowers for the month and allowing neatly cut lawns to burgeon into relaxed nature-friendly spaces, has seized the public imagination on a grand scale. Inspired by reconnecting with nature, improving both our own mental health and benefitting all kinds of threatened creatures, No Mow May has been the first step into wildlife friendly gardening for many people.
While letting our lawns grow long for one month helps create habitats, these are then removed when lawns are cut in June. Leaving long grass remain through to autumn is one way to continue helping wildlife after No Mow May is over. But what else can we do for wildlife? Browse our list below.
Mow less, for longer
Changing mowing patterns lets flowers flourish and turns your lawn into an insect magnet. ‘No Mow May’ is now not only an established and beloved feature of the gardening year but has burgeoned further into ‘Let It Bloom June’ and ‘Mow-saic’, which involves keeping some areas long and some short. Over the last 100 years the UK has lost 97 per cent of its flower-rich meadows. With approximately 30 million gardens in the UK, containing around 125,000 hectares of lawn, gardeners have the potential to make huge wins for wildlife.
Grow more wildflowers
You don't need a lawn to grow wildflowers, why not squeeze some into your borders? Consider ox-eye daisy, self-heal, red and white clover, viper's bugloss, meadow buttercup and birds-foot trefoil. You can also grow these flowers in pots.
Dig a pond
Everything needs water to live, so providing even a small source of fresh water is good, though bigger is better. A wildlife pond helps support many different species, including frogs, toads and newts, dragonflies and other aquatic invertebrates, birds which need water to drink and to bathe in order to keep feathers in good condition, and mammals like hedgehogs, voles and foxes that use ponds to drink from. Easy access is vital, so at least one side should be gently sloping, and ideally with a ‘green corridor’ of plants for protection from sun and predators. Avoid adding fish to your pond, which would eat frog and newt tadpoles, and other aquatic larvae.
Grow plants for pollinators
Provide a feast of nectar and pollen for insects by sowing their favourite annual flowers, including poppies, sunflowers, poached-egg flowers, cornflowers, nasturtiums, into border gaps. You can buy insect-friendly seed mixes, just look for the Plants for Pollinators logo on the seed packet. Sow between March and June, into bare, well-prepared moist ground, and sprinkle over a thin covering of soil. These flowers attract bees, butterflies, hoverflies and pollinating beetles.
Grow more native plants
Native shrubs, trees, climbers and hedges have considerable impact in gardens, providing leaves which a multitude of insects can lay eggs on. These, in turn, provide birds, hedgehogs and amphibians with grubs to eat. Choose from hawthorn, hazel, holly, guelder rose and spindle – all can be grown as a small tree, hedge or large shrub. If you don't have space for shrubs, hedges and trees, choose native herbaceous plants such as nettles, dandelions and other plants formerly considered 'weeds', plus foxgloves, primroses and campion. All of these not only provide pollen and nectar for pollinators, but egg-laying opportunities for other insects, including butterflies and moths.
Make homes for wildlife
Shelter is just as important as food and water. As wild habitats are increasingly diminished, our gardens become important havens. Make habitat piles from twigs and leaves, open up your compost heap so wildlife such as bumblebees and slow worms can use them, and leave some areas wild where plant debris can accumulate, among long grass and shrubs. Not cutting back plants in autumn is also extremely beneficial to hibernating insects.
As well as natural habitats, you can erect a variety of bird boxes to suit different types of bird, and bee hotels for solitary bees.
]]>How to grow and care for Osmanthushttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-and-care-for-osmanthus/2026-04-30T07:39:41.000ZOsmanthus (sometimes referred to as sweet olive or sweet osmanthus) are hardy, small to medium-sized shrubs grown for their handsome evergreen foliage and, with some species, spring flowers. Most species are easy to grow and thrive in sun or shade. However, don’t expect quick results – Osmanthus are slow growing and can also take a year or two to establish, but given time they make excellent feature plants for borders, screening or hedging.
The key attribute varies according to the species – foliage is the main attraction of Osmanthus heterophyllus, which has prickly, holly-like leaves that come in a range of colour variegations as well as dark green. Other species such as Osmanthus x burkwoodii and Osmanthus delavayi are grown more for their clusters of white, sweetly scented spring flowers. Many species also bear purplish or black berries, in autumn. Some species of Osmanthus work well as alternatives to box.
Where to grow Osmanthus
Plant Osmanthus at the middle to back of a border, in a woodland garden, or as a hedge planted in a single row, spacing three plants per metre. Variegated varieties are most compact in shape and are suited to growing in large pots. Although Osmanthus grows either in sun or shade, more flowers will be produced in a sunny site. Avoid windy and exposed sites, and water that's prone to waterlogging.
How to plant Osmanthus
In colder regions, plant Osmanthus in spring so it has plenty of time to become established before winter. In milder areas, plant in autumn or spring.
When to plant Osmanthus
The best time to plant Osmanthus in spring or autumn, when the soil is moist but conditions are warm. You can plant Osmanthus in summer but dry, hot conditions will mean you have to water more regularly to help it become established.
How to care for Osmanthus
Water during dry spells for the first couple of years, taking care to water thoroughly so the moisture penetrates deep into the soil, to encourage development of deep roots.
Annually, in early spring, mulch the soil around the base of the plant with well-rotted organic matter such as home-made garden compost or leaf mould, or chipped bark, avoiding contact with the stems. Apply a general fertilizer at the same time.
In winter, prune Osmanthus back to your desired shape.
How to prune Osmanthus
Trim only if needed to restrict or re-shape growth, immediately after flowering for spring-flowering Osmanthus, or in late spring for species grown predominantly for foliage.
How to propagate Osmanthus
Cuttings or layering are the most reliable ways to propagate Osmanthus. Take cuttings of young, healthy, vigorous, non-flowering shoots in mid to late summer, then insert them in to pots of moist seed compost and place in a heated propagator until new growth begins to appear.
Layering takes longer but is done in situ and doesn’t need any special equipment. Again, select healthy young shoots growing near to the ground and bend down to touch the soil. Then, using a sharp knife, remove a sliver of bark at the contact point. Peg firmly in place and leave for up to 12 months until roots have formed, at which time detach the rooted piece from the parent plant, pot up, and grow on until the root system is sufficiently well established to plant it in the ground.
Pests and problem-solving
Once established, Osmanthus is a trouble-free plant to grow, but it may be suceptible to honey fungus.
Advice on buying Osmanthus
- A limited range of Osmanthus is available from nurseries and garden centres
- Variegated forms of Osmanthus heterophyllus are widely sold as young plants in autumn, for planting in pots for winter interest
- A wider range of Osmanthus species is likely to be offered by specialist shrub nurseries. Osmanthus burkwoodii is often available from hedging specialists.
Where to buy Osmanthus
Osmanthus varieties to grow
Osmanthus delavayi – white, jasmine-like flowers appear with glossy, dark grey-green serrated leaves. Height x Spread: 3m x 4m
Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Variegatus' – rounded, evergreen shrub with glossy, cream edged, dark green leaves and fragrant, jasmine like, white flowers. H x S: 1.5m x 1.5m
Osmanthus × burkwoodii – rounded, evergreen shrub with glossy, finely toothed, dark green leaves and fragrant white flowers. H x S: 3m x 3m
Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Ogon' – pyramid-shaped shrub with waxy, golden-yellow leaves. H x S: 1.2m x 1.2m
Frequently asked questions
What does osmanthus smell like?
Osmanthus flowers have a lovely fragrance, sometimes described as like apricot jam, with citrussy, leathery notes.
What are the benefits of osmanthus?
As well as looking good, Osmanthus flowers can be made into a tea, which is said to have several benefits including reducing bloating and gas, lowering blood pressure and relieving menstrul cramps.
]]>Bulbs to plant now for a glorious summer displayhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/bulbs-to-plant-now-for-a-glorious-summer-display/2026-04-24T10:54:07.000ZBeautiful blooming bulbs are not just for spring. Summer flowering bulbs make a fabulously colourful display, and the time to plant them is now. Grow summer bulbs to brighten your borders and containers, or grow for your own cut flower displays.
Dormant bulbs and roots are widely available in garden centres, either loose or pre-packed, or to buy online. They offer great value and even tender ones can be kept from year to year, with a bit of winter care.
Here’s our top choice of summer bulbs to grow:
Gladioli
Gladioli are favourites for flamboyant frilly blooms in many vivid colours. They are great for border displays and make excellent cut flowers. Less common – and more subtle – is Gladiolius murieliae (formerly Acideranthera), which has elegant white, purple-centred, fragrant blooms. The bulbs are small but it's still necessary to plant them around 10cm deep.
Height x Spread: 1m x 50cm
Begonias
Begonias do especially well in pots. Choose from upright bushy begonias or trailing ones that are brilliant in window boxes and hanging baskets. Plant begonia tubers with the concave-side upwards, with the top side just 1-2cm below the soil surface.
H x S: 50cm x 50cm
Dahlias
Dahlias bear masses of large, colourful blooms over a long period, and come in an extensive choice of colours and sizes. While you can plant dahlia tubers directly in the ground outside, it's worth getting a head start by planting them in pots under cover – not only does this result in an earlier batch of flowers but you can prevent slug and snail damage, too. Pot up the tubers with the crown around 6-8cm deep, using peat-free multi-purpose compost, then plant out into rich, fertile soil after all risk of frost has passed. Bear in mind that only single-flowered dahlias are attractive to pollinators.
H x S: 1.5m x 50cm
Lilies
Lilies are hardy summer-flowering bulbs that come back year after year, offering great value along with low maintenance. The huge flowers of lilies, borne atop tall stems and often richly scented, are real showstoppers in tubs. Plant lily bulbs 10-15cm deep. Bear in mind that Asiatic lilies need alkaline soil and Oriental lilies do best in acidic (ericaceous) soil. Hybrid lilies such as oriental trumpets, Lilium longiflorum asiatics or Lilium longiflorum orientals have less fussy soil requirements.
H x S: up to 2m x 50cm
Eucomis
Also known as pineapple flower, Eucomis has unusually shaped pineapple-looking flowers and lush strap-shaped leaves. It appears exotic and tender but tolerates a reasonable amount of frost if planted in free-draining soil. Plant the bulbs in pots with the pointed end facing upwards, around 15cm deep and spaced around 15cm apart.
Tips for success
- You can plant tender bulbs outdoors in most areas from mid-April, but wait until May if you live in a colder region. Alternatively, get bulbs started in pots under cover to plant out once all danger of frost is past.
Grow summer bulbs in a sunny and sheltered spot so they're not blown over by wind. - Stake tall-growing plants like dahlias and gladioli, ideally putting supports in place before planting, to avoid spearing the roots.
- When flowers start appearing, feed pot-grown bulbs with a high-potash liquid feed (tomato fertilizer is fine) once a fortnight.
- Overwinter the tender bulbs in pots by simply by moving to a frost-free place in autumn.
]]>