BBC Gardeners World Magazine https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants Wed, 07 Jan 2026 11:26:42 GMT en hourly 1 12 house plants for shade https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/house-plants-for-shady-spots/ Wed, 07 Jan 2026 11:22:06 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/house-plants-for-shady-spots/ Every home has a shady spot or two – we pick some of the best house plants to grow there. Many house plants are native to jungle or forest conditions, growing on the ground or as epiphytes beneath the tree canopy. They're therefore used to low light levels and will thrive in a shady spot in the house. Other plants will tolerate shade as long as they receive some indirect light.

Direct sunlight can do more harm than good for these plants, which may suffer from leaf scorch or wilting if in the wrong position. Interested to find out more? We've put together helpful guides on winter care for house plants and how to raise humidity for house plants.

Worried about watering? We answer all your questions about how to water houseplants, and have put together a roundup of the best watering cans, featuring stylish designs for the home. In a hurry? Here are our favourite picks:

• Buy Elho Brussels Watering Can at Amazon
• Buy Mini Yellow Earthenware Watering Can at Oliver Bonas
• Buy Eva Solo Globe Watering Can at John Lewis

We've chosen 12 of the best house plants to grow in a shady spot, below, and if you're looking for more inspiration, check out 11 of the best house plants to grow.

Boston fern

Nephrolepis exalata, or the Boston fern, is an easy to grow house plant performing best in a bright spot out of direct sunlight. It thrives in a humid environment, so a steamy bathroom is ideal.

• Buy Boston ferns from Crocus

Heart-leaf philodendron

Philodendron scandens is a climbing evergreen plant, native to the Caribbean and Central America, where it clambers up trees in order to reach the light. Its deep green, heart-shaped leaves are the perfect accent in a shady area indoors. Grow in a pot and allow it to tumble over the edges, or add a moss pole to provide a vertical support.

• Buy philodendron from Crocus
• Buy philodendron from Van Meuwen

Calatheas and marantas

Grown for their colourfully patterned leaves, calatheas and marantas have a tendency to shrivel in sunny conditions, so shady spot suits them. They do best if given a regular misting.

• Buy calathea from Crocus

Spider plants

If grown in too bright a spot, the colourful foliage of spider plants can bleach out, so they lose their vibrancy. A shady spot will produce the best colour and help to ensure they don't dry out too quickly.

• Buy spider plants from Crocus

Swiss cheese plant

Grown up a moss pole or other vertical support Monstera deliciosa doesn't need to be grown in full or direct sun. Its large leaves do a terrific job of catching the smaller levels of light available to it when growing in a shady spot.

• Buy Monstera deliciosa from Crocus

Areca palm

Sited here on the wooden pot stand, the areca palm is a lovely choice if you need a bushy house plant to fill a large gap. The split leaves lend a tropical feel. Grow it in a shady but bright spot indoors, and mist regularly. For a similar look, consider Howea fosteriana (the Kentia palm) and Chamaedorea elegans (the parlour palm).

• Buy areca palms from Crocus

Hoyas

Most hoyas are epiphytic plants that non-parasitically attach themselves to other plants, using them as a growth support or anchor. They'll thrive in a bright but shady area indoors, and most produce umbels of deliciously scented flowers to perfume the home.

• Buy hoyas from Crocus
• Buy hoyas carnosa from Van Meuwen

Cast iron plant

In warmer climates, aspidistras can often be spotted thriving in great pots sited in the darkest courtyards, surrounded on all sides by tall buildings. Indoors, they're ideal for your darkest spots.

• Buy aspidistras from Crocus

Mother-in-law's-tongue

Also known as snake plant, Mother-in-law’s tongue has sword-like leaves with yellow edges. It does best in bright light, out of direct sun, but will tolerate shade. Wait for the compost to dry out before watering and water sparingly in winter.

• Buy snake plants from Crocus

Peace lily

Peace lily, Spathiphyllum wallisii, is a low maintenance house plant with glossy green leaves and occasional white flowers, which are called spathes. It does best in a bright spot out of direct sunshine but will also tolerate shade.

• Buy peace lilies from Crocus

Parlour palm

The parlour palm, Chamaedorea elegans, is a popular houseplant grown for its attractive light green fronds. For best results, grow in a bright spot, shaded from full sun. It can also cope with shade.

• Buy parlour palms from Crocus

Silver inch plant

Silver inch plant, Tradescantia zebrina, has unusual, variegated leaves in green, purple and silver. It has a trailing habit so looks great in a hanging planter or on a shelf. It does best in a warm spot out of direct sunshine. It does well in shade but may lose its leaf variegation.

• Buy silver inch plants from Crocus

]]> 25 of the best house plants to grow https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/25-of-the-best-house-plants-to-grow/ Wed, 07 Jan 2026 11:01:08 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/25-of-the-best-house-plants-to-grow/ Love house plants? We've picked 25 of our favourites to grow. House plants, or indoor plants, provide interest, beauty and clean air in the home. They come in a huge variety of forms, from large-leaved jungle plants to tiny succulents that look like stones. There are house plants for sun and shade, dry conditions and humid bathrooms – almost a house plant for every situation and every home gardener.

Indoor plants have been proven to improve mental health and air quality in the home. Some house plants even absorb pollutants from household items such as fire-retardant furniture. Whatever your experience of growing house plants, there are plenty to suit you. Some indoor plants barely need watering or repotting at all!

How to grow house plants

Most house plants are tropical or desert plants used to warmer, more humid or drier conditions than we can offer them in our gardens. However, with a little care and attention, they will thrive in our homes. Some indoor plants have evolved to cope with very little rainfall, while others need regular watering to survive.

Before you buy your house plant, check which conditions it needs to grow well and whether you can provide those conditions in your home. Most indoor plants thrive in bright but indirect light – a few feet from a window is ideal. No house plant will be happy next to a radiator, open fire or air conditioning unit.

Brush up on how to care for your house plant, as all have slightly different needs. For example, indoor plants are often killed by overwatering. As a rule of thumb, water only when the top 1-2cm of compost is dry. Many plants also need humid conditions so mist plants regularly, spritzing them with a misting spray to raise the humidity levels in warm, dry rooms. Feed regularly (around once a month) with a specialist house plant feed during the growing season, from spring to autumn. Many house plants cease growing in the winter months, so need less feeding and watering at this time.

Choosing house plants

When choosing indoor plants to grow in your home, take time to work out which conditions you can provide for them. There's no point in buying sun-loving cactus plants if you have only dark rooms and north-facing windows to offer. Similarly, humidity-loving jungle plants are best grown in a bathroom and don't thrive in other, drier areas of the home. Do a bit of research – if you fall in love with a plant, find out how to grow it before taking it home, so you can give it the best chance of survival possible.

For help choosing pots for your house plants see our guide to 15 of the best indoor plant pots

Buy misting spray bottles on Amazon

Buy houseplant food on Amazon

More on growing indoor plants:

• Eight house plants to grow on a windowsill
• How to propagate clump-forming house plants
• 10 exotic house plants to grow

We've picked 25 of our favourite indoor plants below, listed below.

Spider plants

Spider plants (Chlorophytum) are easy to grow and will reward you with frequent offsets that can be grown on and given to friends. As well as the variegated varieties 'Vittatum' and 'Variegatum', you could also grow 'Lemon', which has fresh green foliage. They look fabulous in hanging containers. Grow out of direct sunlight, and water and feed regularly while in active growth.

Height x Spread: 0.5m x 0.3m

Buy spider plants from Primrose

Aspidistras

As a testament to their toughness, aspidistras are commonly known as cast iron plants. They're hardier than one might think, too, capable of surviving temperatures as low as -5ºC. Lush, broad leaves make them great foliage plants. Grow out of direct sunlight and feed and water regularly from spring to autumn.

H x S: 0.5m x 0.3m

Buy Aspidistras from Waitrose Garden

Monstera

One of the best-loved and most popular house plants, monsteras are exotic beauties that will reward the grower with broad leaves with little effort. Grow in a bright spot out of direct sunlight and water regularly while in active growth. Best grown with a moss pole so they can climb. Monstera adansonii is a smaller though no less attractive alternative.

H x S: 2m x 2.5m

Buy monstera from Waitrose Garden

Hoyas

These twining evergreen climbers bear clusters of richly scented flowers, and enjoy growing in bright shade in a free-draining soil. Hoya carnosa and Hoya kerrii are perhaps the most commonly grown hoyas, but there are many more exciting and easily grown types to branch out into, too.

H x S: 0.45m x 0.45m

Buy hoya from Waitrose Garden

Philodendron xanadu

One of many gorgeous philodendrons to grow as house plants, Philodendron xanadu is a clump-forming species with lobed leaves that enjoys growing in a shady location. Provide it with the humidity it enjoys by misting regularly. Other attractive philodendrons to grow include Philodendron scandens, Philodendron erubescens and Philodendron 'Imperial Red'.

H x S: depends on variety

Buy Philodendron xanadu from Waitrose Garden

Rubber plants

Rubber plants, Ficus elastica, are easy evergreens to grow with glossy leaves and a stunning architectural growth habit. There are several cultivars to choose from, such as the variegated 'Tineke', or 'Bali', which has deep green-purple leaves. It's far from the only ficus to grow, though. Others include the fiddle leaf fig, Ficus benghalensis and Ficus benjamina. Grow them in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

H x S: 2.5m x 2m

Buy rubber plants from Primrose

Areca palm

With masses of upright, divided leaves, Areca palm (Chrysalidocarpus lutescens) is bound to make a statement. For a similar look, you could also try growing Howea fosteriana or Chamaedorea elegans, which have slightly larger leaflets. Grow in bright light out of direct sunlight, water well when in active growth and give it a good mist regularly.

H x S: 2m x 1m

Buy chamaedorea elegans from Waitrose Garden

String of hearts

String of hearts, (Ceropegia woodii) is a trailing house plant, which makes a fabulous vertical accent for growing indoors. The stems can quickly reach over two metres in length and look lovely draping over the edge of a bookcase or mantelpiece. Very easy to grow, as long as it's not overwatered, it enjoys a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

H x S: 1.5m x 0.1m

Buy Ceropegia linearis subsp. woodii from Waitrose Garden

Pilea peperomioides

Pilea peperomioides is an easy-to-grow plant with distinctive round, succulent leaves. They're constantly producing offsets so you'll never be short of baby plants to give away as presents. Give it a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

H x S: 0.3m x 0.3m

Buy Pilea peperomioides from Primrose

Snake plant

The upright, sword-shaped leaves of snake plants (Sansevieria) are instantly recognisable. Sansevieria trifasciata var. laurentii has creamy margins, while Sansevieria zeylandica has lovely striated leaves. Sansevieria masoniana 'Victoria' has much broader leaves. Great for a bright location out of direct sunlight.

H x S: 1m x 0.3m

Buy Snake plants from Waitrose Garden

Phlebodium aureum

The rabbit's foot fern, Phlebodium aureum, has gorgeous, glaucous leaves. These are produced from creeping rhizomes covered in lots of small hairs, giving them a furry appearance. Very easy to grow if grown in bright, indirect sunlight. Keep well watered and mist the leaves regularly.

H x S: 1m x 0.5m

Buy Phlebodium aureum from Waitrose Garden

Maidenhair fern

The maidenhair fern, Adiantum raddianum, makes a gorgeous, leafy house plant. Each frond bears small, delicate leaves held on contrasting dark stems. Thriving in a humid environment, it's perfect for a steamy bathroom.

H x S: 0.4m x 0.4m

Buy Maidenhair Ferns from Primrose

Streptocarpus

Cape primrose (Streptocarpus) makes a fantastic houseplant in the British Isles. They come in a huge range of flower colours, and bloom from spring to autumn. They’re easy to grow grow them on a bright window sill away from direct sunlight, and avoid over-watering.

H x S: 1.5m x 0.1m

Buy Streptocarpus from Dobies

Crassula ovata 'Gollum'

Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’, also known as the jade plant, is an unusual succulent with tubular, trumpet shaped leaves. It looks like a small tree, and the branching trunk becomes thick with age. It may produce clusters of small, star-like, white or pinkish-white flowers with pink stamens in winter.

H x S: 0.8m x 0.4m

Buy Crassula from Waitrose Garden

Deuterocohnia

Deuterocohnia are bromeliads, native to Argentina and Bolivia. They bear small, sharply pointed, toothed leaves in blue-green, with reddish tips. Grow in bright light and water regularly, reducing watering in winter.

H x S: 0.4m x 0.3m

Buy Deuterocohnia from Crafty Plants

Staghorn fern

Staghorn fern, Platycerium wandae, is an unusual house plant, native to lowland rainforests of New Guinea. An epiphyte, it has large, antler-like, lobed, leathery fronds.

H x S: 2m x 2m

Buy Staghorn fern from Waitrose Garden

Rhipsalis

There are several varieties of Rhipsalis, which are technically a cactus, but with a beautiful trailing habit, perfect for making indoor hanging displays. Grow in bright light and water sparingly.

H x S: 0.2m x 0.6m

Buy Rhipsalis from Waitrose Garden

Caladium Bicolor

Angel's wings. Caladium Bicolor, has beautiful heart-shaped green leaves in a variety of different colours. Grow caladium in bright light and water freely in summer, keeping the compost completely dry in winter.

H x S: 0.5m x 0.5m

Buy Caladium from Primrose

Alocasia cuprea

Alocasia cuprea bears large, leathery heart-shaped leaves in a variety of colours. Grow in bright light to partial shade, with a good degree of humidity - a bright bathroom is ideal.

H x S: 0.25m x 0.25m

Buy Alocasia from Primrose

Hippeastrum

Usually grown for Christmas, Hippeastrum (amaryllis) is a bulbous plant, bearing large, velvety flowers in a variety of colours. Plant in peat-free, multi-purpose compost around eight weeks before you want it to flower, and keep in a cool room with plenty of light to ensure it develops slowly, maintaining a strong flower shoot and leaves.

H x S: 0.75m x 0.2m

Buy Hippeastrum from Dobies

Fiddle-leaf fig

Fiddle leaf fig, Ficus lyrata, is a pricey plant that can be a little fickle – it has a habit of dropping its leaves if it’s not happy. This could be due to dry air, under- or overwatering, under- or over feeding, or sudden changes in temperature. Once you have found the right place for it – a bright spot, out of direct sun, in a warm room – leave it there, as it doesn’t like being moved. Wipe the leaves to keep them free of dust.

H x S: 2m x 0.5m

Buy Fiddle-leaf fig from Primrose

Purple shamrock

Purple shamrock, Oxalis triangularis, has purple leaves and pale pink, nodding flowers. It is a bulb and dies back in winter. It likes some humidity so is a good choice for a bathroom.

H x S: 0.5m x 2m

Buy Oxalis triangularis from Crocus

Succulents and cacti

Succulents and cacti are extremely popular and it’s easy to see why – they come in range of shapes, sizes and colours, such as the bunny-eared prickly pear cactus. Most will grow on a sunny windowsill and are low maintenance. Let the compost dry out between watering in summer. Find out how to make a succulent and cacti terrarium.

H x S: 0.2m x 0.3m

Buy cacti and succulents from Primrose

Air plants

Air plants don’t need compost – in nature, they take moisture from the air. They do need watering, however – either by regular misting, or by plunging in a bowl of water for around 30 minutes, allowing to drain well. A humid room, such as kitchen or bathroom, is ideal.

H x S: 0.2m x 0.2m

Buy air plants from Waitrose Garden

Crown of thorns

Crown of thorns, Euphorbia milii, is a pretty plant with fleshy leaves that seems to flower almost non-stop, given plenty of bright light. The flowers are actually coloured bracts that last for several weeks. It has fleshy leaves and stems, so doesn’t need too much watering. Wear gloves when handling – the plant has sharp thorns and also an irritant sap.

H x S: 0.5m x 0.5m

Buy Crown of thorns from Gardening Express

Clusia rosea

Clusia rosea, also known as the autograph tree, is a fast-growing house plant with evergreen leaves, but it can be kept at around 1.5m in height by pruning in spring. It grows well in warm, humid conditions, making it an ideal choice for a steamy bathroom or kitchen.

H x S: 1.5m x 0.5m

Buy Clusia rosea from Crocus

]]> Poinsettia care: how to keep a poinsettia alive https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/how-to-grow-poinsettias/ Fri, 12 Dec 2025 15:56:51 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/how-to-grow-poinsettias/ Find out how to grow and care for poinsettias for Christmas and beyond, in our Grow Guide. Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is an attractive house plant with dark green leaves and leafy red 'bracts' that surround the green-yellow flowers in December and January. They're commonly used to decorate the home at Christmas. Native to Mexico, poinsettias can be tricky to keep alive after Christmas and most are thrown away after the red bracts have faded and the festivities have ended. However, with a little care and attention it's possible to keep your poinsettia alive throughout the year and even encourage red bracts and flowers to form in time for the following Christmas.

How to grow poinsettia

Grow poinsettia in a draught-free spot with bright, indirect light and a temperature of around 13-15°C. Water sparingly, typically when the surface of the compost has started to dry out. Mist the leaves and bracts regularly to increase humidity and keep the colourful bracts looking their best for longer. After Christmas, feed your poinsettia monthly with a high potash liquid feed, such as a tomato feed.

Buying poinsettias

If buying your poinsettia from a garden centre or supermarket, make sure it's in good condition and that no leaves are wilting, as wilting leaves can be a sign that they've been stored in too-cold conditions. Avoid buying poinsettias that have been displayed near a door or even on a petrol station forecourt – they simply won't last.

Take care to ensure it's well protected on the journey home, making sure its delicate leaves aren't exposed to freezing temperatures – ask the shop assistant to wrap it up or cover it in a plastic bag if you need to. Don't leave your poinsettia in the car for longer than is absolutely necessary as temperatures can quickly tumble and your poinsettia will suffer.

How to care for a poinsettia

Watering

Water only if the surface of the compost is dry, and continue to water sparingly. Increase humidity by spraying gently with water every few days. This will help keep the leaves and bracts in tip-top condition. Dust the leaves as and when you need to, to keep your poinsettia looking its best but also ensuring its leaves can photosynthesise properly, so it remains as healthy as possible.

Light

The best place for a poinsettia is in a bright, draught-free spot out of direct sunlight.

Soil

Keep your poinsettia in the same pot you bought it in, as the compost will be just right for it. If you want to repot it after Christmas in order to encourage it to flower the following year, use a free-draining, peat-free loam-based compost, and feed fortnightly with a high potash fertiliser such as a tomato feed.

Temperature/humidity

The ideal average temperature for poinsettias is 13-15ºC. Keep away from windows, where temperatures can drop significantly at night, and from doorways and open fireplaces, which can be draughty.

Pruning

There's no need to prune poinsettias before Christmas, but if you would like to encourage it to flower again the following year, prune back to 10cm in April.

Staking

There's no need to stake poinsettia

How to encourage poinsettias to flower again

It's not easy to get your poinsettia to flower again, but if you're up for a challenge, follow these instructions carefully:

After Christmas, start feeding your poinsettia with a liquid plant food that's high in potassium, such as tomato food.

In April, prune your poinsettia back to about 10cm, and keep at a temperature of 13°C. In early May, repot your poinsettia into a slightly larger pot with fresh, peat-free, loam-based compost, and then keep it in a draught-free spot out of direct sunlight, ensuring the temperature doesn't exceed 18ºC.

Poinsettias develop flowers and colourful bracts when day length decreases. This occurs naturally in December, but to encourage flowering by Christmas, you'll need to mimic short day length by moving your poinsettia into a dark cupboard for 12 hours each day, from November. Keep an even temperature of around 18ºC and make sure it's not exposed to artificial light during this time.

Once your poinsettia has started flowering, mist leaves daily to keep them looking their best for as long as possible.

How to propagate poinsettias

Propagate your poinsettia from softwood cuttings in May. Make sure you wear gloves when doing this – like all members of the euphorbiacea family, poinsettias have milky sap that can irritate the skin.

For help finding the right gloves see our our round up of 10 of the best gardening gloves and our individual glove reviews for inspiration.

Common issues

Leaves

The most common problem when growing poinsettias is that the leaves wilt and drop off. This is a sign of cold conditions. Remember poinsettias are from Mexico and need to be kept at a minimum temperature of 13ºC, away from draughts (including near doors, fireplaces or single-glazed windows). Unfortunately, some poinsettias are kept in poor conditions in the shop or garden centre, and the leaves start to wilt when you get them home. Sadly there's not much you can do for your poinsettia at this stage. Always buy your poinsettia from a reputable supplier and remember to protect it from cold conditions on the journey home.

Grey mould on the leaves can result from over-watering. Make sure you water your poinsettia only when the surface of the compost is dry, and mist the leaves regularly to maintain humidity around the plant.

Advice on buying poinsettias

• Make sure your poinsettia is in good condition and that no leaves are wilting, as wilting leaves can be a sign that they've been stored in too-cold conditions
• Avoid buying poinsettias that have been displayed near a door – they simply won't last
• Ask the shop assistant to wrap your poinsettia up or cover it in a plastic bag to protect it on the way home

Where to buy poinsettias

• Gardens4You
• Gardening Express
• Plants 4 Presents

Poinsettia varieties to grow

• Euphorbia pulcherrima ‘Silver Star’ - dusky pink bracts and variegated leaves
• Euphorbia pulcherrima ‘Lemon Snow’ - pale yellow bracts
• Euphorbia pulcherrima ‘Cortez Burgundy’ - deep plum bracts

Choose from a range of poinsettias from Gardening Express

Frequently asked questions

What is the lifespan of a poinsettia?

Given the right conditions, a poinsettia can live for up to 20 years, but most sadly die within a few weeks. This is because they are not cared for properly, and may have been exposed to draughts and cold temperatures, either in the shop or your home. Follow our detailed care guide above on how to look after a poinsettia, and you could have yours for many years to come.

]]> How to care for orchids https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/how-to-care-for-orchids/ Sat, 31 May 2025 05:28:47 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/how-to-care-for-orchids/ Find out how to care for your orchid in our detailed Grow Guide. Orchids are popular house plants and make a beautiful addition to house plant displays. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common type of orchid grown in the UK. Flowering over a long period, they're available in an increasingly wide range of flower colours.

The popularity of moth orchids has led to other types of orchids becoming more available to grow as house plants. These include Dendrobium orchids, Paphiopedilum orchids, Oncidium orchids, Vanda orchids and Cambria hybrid orchids. These are all easy to grow in most homes, producing dramatic displays of exotic blooms.

• How to get an orchid to flower

How to care for orchids

Watering

The roots of moth orchids change colour, depending on the plant's moisture levels – when they're green they're fully hydrated so don't need watering, but when they're silver they're dry and can be watered. Always check the roots before watering and use lukewarm water so as to not to shock the plant.

For other orchids, such as Cambria/Odontoglossum, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Miltonia and Oncidium, the best way to know when to water is by feeling the weight of the pot. If the leaves and stems are heavier than the growing medium, this is a perfect time to water.

For specialist orchids like Paphiopedilum or Phragmipedium, use either rainwater or filtered water, as they can be sensitive to tap water.

There are two ways to water orchids: submersion and watering from the top.

Submersion involves placing the bottom quarter of the plant's pot in lukewarm water for around an hour. You can add orchid fertiliser to the water, too, which the roots will absorb. After an hour, lift the pot out of the water and allow it to drain before placing it back in its usual spot.

Watering from the top is quicker than submersion and is less likely to lead to root rot. But you will need to water your orchid more often than if you submerse the pot. Always allow the pot to drain and never leave the orchid sitting in water.

Vanda orchids don't grow in compost but grow with their roots loose in the air. To water them, simply submerge the rootball in lukewarm water for a couple of hours.

Light

Most orchids need bright but indirect light, as too much sunlight can scorch the leaves. Keep them on an east- or west-facing windowsill from spring to autumn, but move your orchid to a south-facing windowsill for the winter months, when light levels are lower.

Compost

Phalaenopsis (moth orchids), Cambria/Odontoglossum, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Vanilla and Zygopetalum orchids need air to circulate around their roots, so are best grown in orchid compost, which is essentially pine bark. Use a larger grade (8-15mm) for moth orchids and cymbidiums, and a finer grade (5-8mm) for other types. Finer grade orchid bark is usually available only from specialist suppliers.

For other orchids, like Phragmipedium and Paphiopedilum, professional growers recommend a handmade mix of coconut coir, bark, perlite and sphagnum moss (at a ratio of 1:1:0.5:0.5).

Vanda orchids are epiphytes, and are grown without compost.

Fertilisers

Orchids don't rely on fertilisation as much as other house plants. Feed using a specific orchid fertiliser only – you can buy orchid foliar sprays that give orchids all the nutrients they need, which they absorb through their leaves. 

Temperature and humidity

Normal household temperatures of around 15℃ – 30℃ are fine for orchids. Humidity is rarely an issue but keep them away from operating radiators. Mist the leaves every few days to increase humidity, if necessary. According to experts, Brassia (spider orchids) don't like being misted often, so their moist bark will provide enough humidity for them.

Pruning

Remove any spent flowers as they yellow, using a clean pair of scissors. Don't prune off any yellowing leaves that are still plump as the orchid will be transferring the nutrients into other areas of the plant. Once the final flower has dropped from the stalk, cut the stalk back by half to encourage a new branch of flowers to emerge.

For orchids that have small pseudobulbs at their base, such as Cymbidium, Cambria, Miltonia, Miltoniopsis, Oncidium and Zygopetalum, avoid cutting off any yellowed or browned bulbs, which provide nutrients and moisture for the plant.

Staking

Orchids always come with vertically upright canes to support the flowers. Although they'll continue to flower upright, they don't need staking, as the flowers naturally hang freely in the wild. With this in mind, it's entirely up to you if you'd like to have vertically-upright flower stalks, or ones that hang pendulously.

How to repot orchids

Most orchids need repotting every three to four years, into the next sized transparent plastic pot, using orchid compost. For specialist orchids, such as Paphiopedilum and Phragmipedium, make your own mix of coconut coir, bark, perlite and sphagnum moss, at a ratio of 1:1:0.5:0.5. For jewel orchids, use either sphagnum moss or a hand-made mixture of coconut coir, perlite and bark, at a ratio of 1:1:1.

1. While still in its original pot, give the plant a good soak 12 hours before repotting, to reduce transplant shock.
2. Remove the orchid from its pot and gently shake the root system to drop any loose bark. Roots that are healthy and still fused to bark pieces should be left on the plant, as removing them could damage the root. Remove any brown or softened roots using clean scissors.
3. Fill the bottom fifth of the new pot with orchid compost and then place the rootball on top, ensuring the leaves will sit proud of the top. Fill around the roots with more bark and tap the pot to remove air pockets. Water and allow to drain.

How to propagate orchids

Phalaenopsis (moth orchids)

Moth orchids can be propagated from small offshoots that grow from the flower stalk. These need to have at least three leaves and a root that's more than 5cm in length. Moth orchids can take three years to produce offshoots, so you'll need to be patient. If yours has one, cut the flower stalk that's connecting the orchid 3cm above and below the offshoot. Then fill the bottom quarter of a 7cm clear orchid pot with fresh orchid compost, before placing the offshoot's roots on top. Add more bark around the roots before tapping the sides of the pot to remove air pockets. Keep the offshoot on a bright, sunless windowsill and water once a week.

Dendrobium

Dendrobiums can be split at the base where multiple stems are fused together, or via offshoots that develop along the stems themselves. Use a clean knife to split the chosen stem from the base, which should have at least three healthy leaves attached. Tease the cutting's roots from the rest of the rootball and repot it in a 7cm pot of orchid compost. Keep the cutting on a bright, sunless windowsill and water regularly.

Bulbophyllum, Cambria/Odontoglossum, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Epidendrum, Oncidium, Zygopetalum

Propagate these orchids by dividing mature pseudobulbs at their base. Use a clean knife to make the split, and pot into a 10cm transparent pot filled with orchid bark. keep on a bright, sunless windowsill and water regularly while the cutting develops roots.

Vanilla orchids

Take 10cm cuttings from the very tip of any stem and pot it into a 7cm pot filled with orchid bark. Keep on a warm, sunless windowsill and water regularly while the cutting develops roots.

How to encourage moth orchids to flower again

With moth orchids, once all the flowers have fallen, cut off the stem just above a visible joint (node). This may stimulate the production of another flower stem, which you can clip to a support if you would like to. If no shoot appears and the original stem turns straw-coloured, then remove it at the base. Most other orchids won't flower twice on the same stem, so cut off spent stems immediately.

Common issues

Leaves

Yellowing leaves are normal but if lots of the leaves turn yellow over a short space of time, it could be that the orchid is not getting enough light. Move it to a lighter spot, such as on a north- or north-east facing window, and see if the situation improves.

Sun scorch will appear as light-brown leaves that feel floppy when touched. Relocate the orchid to another spot with less direct sunlight.

Roots

Root rot is common with over-watered orchids. Take the plant out of its pot and remove any brown or rotten roots. Then remove as much bark as possible, leaving any bark fused fragments attached to the root. If less than half of the rootball has rotten, use the original pot with fresh orchid bark. For orchids with more than half of the roots rotten, use the next size pot down. 

Flowers

Sudden flower loss is common with newly purchased orchids, thanks to the shock of a new environment. There’s nothing you can do for now except to wait for a new stem to emerge and mature before seeing another show of flowers. 

No flowers could be caused by too little light or nutrient deficiency. Feed your orchid once every third watering, using an orchid fertiliser. 

Pests

Mealybugs are small white insects that make white cotton-like 'fluff' across the leaves and stem joints of the plant. This includes its flowers, leaves, and under the leaves. Use a cotton bud to remove these as and when you see them.

Fungus gnats lay eggs in damp compost, so reduce watering to dry it out and cut their lifecycle.

Spider mites may attach to Cambria/Odontoglossum, Cymbidium, Oncidium or Zygopetalum orchids. Use a damp soapy cloth to wipe both sides of the leaves to remove them.

Advice on buying orchids

• Always read the growing advice before buying – most orchids need a warm, humid environment, but some do best in cooler and drier conditions
• Choose the right orchid for the growing conditions you have
• Always check orchids for signs of disease or damage before purchasing

Where to buy orchids

• Sarah Raven
• Gardens 4 You
• Crocus

Orchid varieties to grow

Miltonia orchid

Miltonia are also known as 'pansy orchids' as their flowers have 'faces', just like pansies do. They do best in cooler temperatures from 12-15°C (55-60°F) but are forgiving of temperature fluctuations. Keep them somewhere bright, but not in full sunshine.

• Buy Miltonia orchids from Crocus

Cymbidium orchid

Cymbidium orchids need cool conditions – a minimum 10°C (50°F). To flower they need a distinct drop in temperature between day and night from mid- to late summer – you achieve this by putting the plants outside from June to September. In the house, they need bright but indirect light. Watch our video guide to caring for cymbidiums.

• Buy Cymbidium orchids from Crocus

Odontoglossum orchid

Unlike most orchids, Odontoglossum orchids do well in low light levels - a north-facing windowsill is ideal. They hail from the Andes, so need cool, fresh, airy conditions and a minimum temperature of 10°C (50°F). High levels of humidity are required so place on a tray of damp pebbles.

• Buy Odontoglossum orchids from Bakker

Dendrobium orchid

Dendrobium orchids do best with a temperature of at least 16-18°C (61-65°F) and a less humid environment than many other orchids. Reduce watering in autumn, and move plants to a bright windowsill or porch, where they can remain cool and dry until spring. Then, when temperatures start to increase again, increase watering and bring indoors.

• Buy Dendrobium orchids from Crocus

Phalaeonopsis orchid

Moth orchids, or Phalaenopsis, are widely available and easy to grow. They do well in centrally heated homes (they need a minimum temperature of 16°C (61°F), in a spot with bright, filtered light, such as close to an east-facing window. They need humidity, so do well in kitchens and bathrooms.

• Buy Phalaenopsis orchids from Crocus

Paphiopedilum orchid

Paphiopedilum, or slipper orchids, like humidity and moderate temperatures – at least 13°C (56°F). Types with spotted leaves like it warmer. They grow on the floor of rainforests so are adapted to low light but need high humidity. Move to a cool, bright spot in winter.

• Buy Paphiopedilum orchids from Crocus

Oncidium orchid

Oncidium orchids, or dancing ladies usually flower in summer and may go dormant for a while. They will appreciate a spell outside in summer. They like bright light – close to an east-facing window is ideal and a moderate temperature of around 12-15°C (55-60°F).

• Buy Oncidium orchids from Crocus

Frequently asked questions

What do I do with my orchid after the flowers fall off?

Orchids are perennial, meaning they can produce flowers reliably each year. For moth orchids, cut the stalk back by half and it should produce a new branch of flowers within three months. For all other orchids, cut the flower stalk back to the base.

]]> How to grow anthurium https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/how-to-grow-anthurium/ Thu, 15 May 2025 08:03:13 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/how-to-grow-anthurium/ All you need to know about growing anthurium in your home, in our Grow Guide. Anthurium, also known as the flamingo flower, flamingo lily, boy flower, oilcloth flower or laceleaf, is an exotic-looking indoor plant with a red flower and large, glossy leaves. Its name is derived from two Greek words, anthos (flower) and oura (tail), hence another of its common names, tail flower.

Anthurium flowers are actually 'spathes' – brightly coloured leaves that attract insects in the wild. The flower is actually the central 'spadix', made up of lots of tiny blooms. The blooms appear intermittently throughout the year and last for between six to eight weeks, with a 'rest period' of up to three months in between.

There are over 1,000 varieties of anthurium available, but the most commonly found type is Anthurium andreanum, which has heart-shaped leaves and shiny flowers in a range of colours. These are most commonly red, pink or white, although you may also find shades of green, yellow, burgundy, lilac and even bi-coloured and spotted flowers. Anthurium scherzianum is similar, but has a curly centre and less glossy flowers, and is sometimes known as the pigtail plant. Some varieties, such as Anthurium clarinervium and Anthurium ellipticum 'Jungle King' are grown for their eye-catching and distinctive foliage. 

In the wild, anthuriums grow in rainforests in South America and the Caribbean, where they are epiphytes, growing in the crevices of trees. You need to try and replicate this environment in your home by providing your plant with warmth, bright filtered light and plenty of humidity. This should keep it blooming regularly throughout the year.

Anthuriums are toxic and therefore harmful to humans and pets if ingested. Wear gloves when handling.

In the right care, anthurium can grow for up to 10 years, producing flowers each spring or summer. This article has useful information on achieving yearly blooms, along with tips on the correct way to water, fertilise and repot your anthurium.

How to care for an anthurium

Watering

The correct watering routine is essential to maintaining a healthy anthurium, as root rot is common if the soil is too moist. Always allow the top third of the soil to dry out between waterings, and water less in autumn and winter. Water with lukewarm water to prevent shock to the plant.

Light and location

Anthurium need plenty of indirect light, so do best on north-, north-east, or north-west facing windowsills. Never place an anthurium more than 1.5m from a window as this will be too shady for them. Wipe dust from the leaves regularly to ensure they receive as much light as possible.

Compost and fertilisers

Make a free-draining potting mix using peat-free, house plant compost mixed 50:50 with orchid bark. Then, apply a liquid house plant feed every third watering, all year round. If your anthurium hasn't grown much in the last year (either flowers or new leaves), use a foliar feed as well, alongside your usual feeding regime.

Temperature and humidity

Anthuriums require a warm room with plenty of humidity. Choose the warmest room of the house, ideally with temperatures higher than 18℃. Average household humidity levels (around 50 per cent) are just enough for anthuriums, but you may find they do better in a bathroom, which is naturally more humid. Alternatively, mist the leaves regularly or stand the pot on a tray of pebbles with water, to boost ambient humidity.

Pruning

Anthuriums are slow growing compared to others like the spider plant or monstera. With this in mind, pruning is rarely necessary and minimal – simply remove dying flowers and leaves. Always allow the yellowing leaf to become brown before pruning it off, as the anthurium may still be recycling nutrients from the leaf to promote growth elsewhere. Using a clean pair of scissors, prune the dying leaf around 2cm from the stem so you don't run the risk of damaging any new leaf nodes on the stem.

Staking

Anthurium rarely need staking unless they are becoming old and weak at the stem. In cases like this, a small cane will do the job, which you can tie the stem to loosely with string.

How to repot an anthurium

Anthuriums typically grow better in slightly potbound conditions. Repot every three years, in spring or summer, into a pot the next size up. For best results, repot when not in flower as the transplant shock may result in sudden flower loss.

The best potting mix to use for anthurium is a 50:50 mix of peat-free house plant compost and orchid bark.

1. Water your anthurium around 12 hours before repotting to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. Gently remove the plant from its pot and scan the rootball for brown, deflated roots that can easily be pulled away with your fingers. This is a sign of root rot – remove these and surrounding compost before repotting.
3. Pour around 3cm of your hand blended compost mix into the pot, and sit the rootball on top.
4. Once you're happy with the position of the rootball, fill around it with more compost and tap the side of the pot to remove air pockets.
5. Wait 24 hours before you water your anthurium again, before relocating it back to its usual spot in your home.

How to propagate an anthurium

Propagating anthuriums is easy as they naturally develop small aerial roots along the stem as they grow.

The best time to take a cutting is in spring or early summer, while the plant is not producing flowers.

1. Use a sharp knife to cut the stem around 10cm from the tip, ensuring the cutting has at least two leaves.
2. Fill a 7cm pot with house plant compost, and push the cuttings into the compost, towards the edge of the pot.
3. Water the compost every three days to maintain good soil moisture, and place the potted cutting on a sunless windowsill to grow. Once the cutting produces its third new leaf after being propagated (in around three months time), you can treat the plant like a mature specimen.

Common issues

Brown spots or patches on the leaves or leaf tips could have a number of causes – the air isn’t humid enough, or the leaves have been burnt by sunlight. It could also mean the plant is getting too much or too little water.

No flowers? It's normal for your plant to have a 'rest period' of a few months before flowering again. To keep your plant blooming, make sure it's getting plenty of bright light, warmth and humidity. Feed it regularly with a weak high potash feed.

Flowers changing colour? This is natural as they age, and some varieties are naturally bi-coloured. If the flowers emerge green, this could be due to lack of light. If they turn green, this could be due to lack of water or low temperatures.

Yellowing leaves is normal – this is just old foliage dying off. If the problem is widespread, it could be due to too much watering or feeding, or too much sunlight.

Fluffy white insects are mealybugs. Wipe them off with a damp cloth.

Fine webbing on stems and leaves could be spider mites. The upper surface of the leaf may be mottled, while mites and eggs can be seen with a magnifying glass on the undersides of leaves. Improve air circulation around the plant and boost humidity by misting or standing on a tray of moist pebbles. 

Raised brown spots on the leaves could be scale insect. Wipe them off with a damp cloth or cotton bud that has been soaked in an insecticide that contains fatty acids or plant oils.

Roots growing upwards out of the pot are aerial roots, which the plant would use in the wild to cling to its host plant. You can cut these off if you find them unsightly (use them as root cuttings) or push them back into the compost.

Toxicity

Unfortunately, this plant is poisonous when ingested by humans and pets.

Advice on buying anthurium

• Make sure you have the right conditions for an anthurium – they do best in bright, indirect light, warm temperatures and high humidity
• Ensure your plant has green, shiny leaves, a colourful flower (spathe) and a fresh-looking centre (spadix) and no signs of pests and diseases
• You can buy anthuriums in flower at the garden centre – they may just be labelled by colour. The 'Champion' and 'Love' series are the most widely available, in a range of colours – but for the best choice of varieties, buy at a specialist house plant retailer or online

• Where to buy anthuriums online

• Primrose
• Crocus
• Thompson & Morgan
• Bakker
• Bloom Box Club

Varieties of anthurium to grow

Anthurium andraeanum 'Pink Champion' – china pink blooms. Part of the 'Champion' series, which is also available in red, white, coral and vanilla. Height x Spread: 50cm x 50cm

• Buy Anthurium andraeanum 'Pink Champion' from B&Q

Anthurium andraeanum 'Champion Zizou' - very unusual, ribbon-shaped lilac flowers. H x S: 40cm x 40cm

• Buy Anthurium andraeanum 'Champion Zizou' from Bloombox Club

Anthurium andraeanum 'Black Love' – unusual, dark burgundy flowers. H x S: 40cm x 40cm

• Buy Anthurium andraeanum 'Black Love' from Thompson & Morgan

Anthurium andraeanum 'Million Flowers' – a particularly free flowering variety, with red blooms. H x S: 40cm x 40cm

• Buy Anthurium andraeanum 'Million Flowers' from Crocus

Anthurium clarinervium – grown for its spectacular dark green leaves with prominent white veins and unusual pink flowers. H x S: 50cm x 50cm

• Buy Anthurium clarinervium from Happy Houseplants

Anthurium ellipticum 'Jungle King' – grown for its unusual, lush, paddle-shaped leaves. H x S: 90cm x 70cm

• Buy Anthurium ellipticum 'Jungle King' from Happy Houseplants

Frequently asked questions

How do you keep anthuriums blooming?

A bright, sunless windowsill will be the best way in which an anthurium can flower for long periods of time. Other tips to mention are only rehydrating the soil once the top third dries out, and using a foliar spray fertiliser to provide nutrients in the leaves.

Why are the leaves on my anthurium plant turning brown?

The most common reason for browning leaf tips is root rot, where the plant cannot sustain enough moisture from the damaged roots to keep the foliage looking healthy. Check the rootball for signs of rot and prune the dead roots with a clean pair of scissors before repotting back into the same container with fresh potting mix.

]]> How to care for philodendron https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/philodendron-types-to-grow-indoors/ Thu, 01 May 2025 07:02:28 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/philodendron-types-to-grow-indoors/ Discover the many varieties in the philodendron genus, and how to grow them. Philodendron is a huge genus of several hundred species native to tropical America, including the Caribbean, Colombia and Venezuela. Many of them are popular house plants in the UK.

Easy to grow and usually fast-growing, philodendrons typically have large, green and glossy leaves, which may be heart-shaped or lobed. Vining varieties can be grown in a hanging pot or positioned on a shelf where their foliage can cascade over the edge, or trained to climb up a moss pole or other support, such as an obelisk, as they would in their natural habitat. Upright philodendron types make excellent foliage plants.

Some philodendrons require a humid environment and are therefore better suited to growing in bathrooms and kitchens, while others are prone to root rot and should be watered sparingly. Overall, however, most philodendrons are easy to grow and tolerate a range of different growing conditions. They make excellent house plants.

Bear in mind that all philodendrons are toxic to humans and pets, so keep them out of reach of inquisitive cats, dogs or children. Philodendron plant sap can cause skin irritation, so wear gloves when handling if you have sensitive skin.

How to care for philodendrons

Watering

Although philodendrons are tropical plants, they do best in compost that's allowed to dry out between watering. With this in mind, water only once the top third of the compost has dried out, using your finger to check for dryness. Remember that light levels will govern the frequency in which you'll need to water your philodendron – those grown on a windowsill may need to be watered once a week, while those placed in darker areas (more than 1m from a window) will need only a fortnightly watering. Likewise, low temperatures will mean the compost takes longer to dry out, so you will need to water less often.

Light

Philodendrons grow best in indirect light, such as on or near a north-, north-east or north-west facing windowsill. Darker locations will lead to slower growth rates. If your windows face south or west, place your philodendron around 1m from the windowsill, so it doesn't receive direct sunlight.

Compost

Transparent orchid pots are best for philodendrons as they help to promote better air circulation around the roots than traditional terracotta or brown plastic pots. The ideal potting mix to use is one designed specifically for monsteras and philodendrons, which can be bought from garden centres and online. They typically contain a higher count of perlite and bark than regular house plant composts, which helps with nutrient retention and drainage. Alternatively, use a peat-free house plant compost, to which you can mix in some orchid compost to aid drainage.

Fertilisers

Although philodendron rarely produce flowers indoors, regular feeding is important to encourage healthy looking foliage. Feed once every third watering, throughout the year, even during autumn and winter. 

Temperature and humidity

Typical household humidity and temperature levels of 15ºC- 30℃ will be perfect for philodendrons.

Pruning

Allow the yellowing leaves to become brown before pruning them off as the plant can recycle the nutrients from the dying leaves to aid growth elsewhere.

Staking

Philodendrons need staking for the first two years. Push a plank of wood or coconut coir moss pole into the soil to provide a surface for the stem to lean on. Don't remove any roots that may grow and fuse onto this surface as this can lead to a check in growth.

How to repot a philodendron

Repot philodendrons every three to four years, ideally using compost designed for monsteras and philodendrons, or a peat-free house plant compost with added orchid compost, to aid drainage. Choose a pot the next size up from the original.

1. Water your philodendron around 12 hours before repotting, to help reduce any risk of transplant shock.
2. Remove the philodendron from its pot and have a quick scan around the outer edge of the rootball for signs of root rot (brown, deflated/flat roots that can easily be pulled from the soil/plant with little resistance). Healthy roots will be plump and cream-coloured. Prune off any brown or softened roots using clean scissors and remove the compost that surrounds the dead roots.
3. Add a few centimetres of compost to the base of the new pot before resting the philodendron rootball on top. Then, fill the remaining gaps between the roots and inner side of the pot with more compost, before then tapping the pot at its side to consolidate the compost around the roots. Add more compost if necessary.

How to propagate a philodendron

Many philodendrons develop offshoots around the base of the main plant, which can be removed and transplanted into individual pots. Water the plant thoroughly the day before division, to make the separation easier. When you remove the offset, make sure it comes with a good supply of roots, as this will help it to establish more easily. Replant it immediately into fresh compost and water thoroughly, allowing excess water to drain from the pot. Keep the division moist for a couple of weeks until you see signs of new growth – after this, resume your usual care routine.

Vining philodendrons are best propagated by taking stem cuttings. This is relatively straight forward to do, with cuttings developing roots within around two months. The best time of year to do this is in spring or summer, when the philodendron is in active growth.

1. Choose a healthy green stem with at least two leaves and prune the stem around 10cm down from the top.
2. Fill the bottom quarter of a 7cm pot with potting compost.
3. Sit the cutting's base vertically on top of the compost, before pouring the rest of the compost into the pot to fill it by around three-quarters. Gently pat the side of the pot to consolidate the compost into place.
4. Water the cutting thoroughly and allow to drain, then place in a bright spot with plenty of indirect light. Keep the compost moist while its roots are developing.
5. Start feeding your philodendron cutting after around four weeks, once the roots have developed. You can start treating it as a mature specimen once it has started growing new leaves.

Common issues

Browning or yellowing leaves are normal. If, however, leaves are yellowing rapidly, check the foliage for spider mites or thrips and remove accordingly.

Spindly, leggy growth could be a sign of nutrient deficiency or low light. Feed your philodendron every third watering, using a feed specially designed for house plants, and move it closer to a window if possible.

A wobbly philodendron that's not secure in the compost is a sign of root rot. Take the plant out of its pot and scan the roots for any signs of rot, which will be brown and come away easily from the rootball. Remove all the affected roots and nearby compost before repotting into fresh compost. You can also take stem cuttings from a root-rotted philodendron.

Small yellow marks on the leaves could be mosaic virus. Remove affected leaves and apply a dilute dose of liquid fertiliser. You may want to isolate it from other house plants, to prevent the virus spreading.

Brown leaves suggest the plant is too cold. Move it to a warmer spot to solve this problem.

Brown leaf tips with yellow margins suggest more humidity is needed. If you can't move your philodendron to a more humid environment such as a bathroom, mist regularly or place the pot on a tray of pebbles half-filled with water, to raise the humidity around the plant.

Toxicity

Philodendrons are mildly toxic to people when ingested, but can cause stomach upset, drooling and vomiting in cats and dogs. Bear in mind, also, that philodendron sap is a skin irritant, so wear gloves when handling if you have sensitive skin.

Frequently asked questions

Where should I put my philodendron in my house?
Most spots in the home are good areas for a philodendron to grow, for best results, place it near a north- or east-facing window.

Is philodendron a good indoor plant?
Philodendrons are fantastic for beginner growers who want to make their homes more green. As long as you allow the top third of the soil to dry in between waters, this will be an easy plant to grow.

Varieties of philodendron

Philodendron erubescens

With large, waxy leaves, this vigorous climber has reddish stems and leaves, although the pink philodendron 'Pink Princess' has heart-shaped leaves with pink variegated sections, while the leaves of Philodendron 'White Princess' has beautiful white variegation. It needs more warmth and humidity than other philodendrons, but is well worth the extra effort. Grow in a warm bathroom for best results. Height x Spread: 2m x 1.5m

• Buy Philodendron erubescens from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus and Suttons
• Buy Philodendron erubescens 'Pink Princess' from Thompson & Morgan
• Buy Philodendron erubescens 'White Princess' from Patch Plants

Philodendron melanochrysum

This striking philodendron has large, heart-shaped, velvety leaves with prominent cream-white veining. A vining plant, it works well in a hanging pot or positioned on a shelf, or it can be trained to climb up a moss pole. It's perfect for growing in a shady corner although can tolerate some indirect light. Philodendron melanochrysum thrives in humidity, so mist regularly if conditions are dry. H x S: 4m x 1m

• Buy Philodendron melanochrysum from Crocus

Philodendron 'Birkin'

Also known as Philodendron 'White Measure', this sought-after variety has small, green leaves with white stripes. Thriving in a warm and humid environment, it's ideal for growing in a bathroom or kitchen. Be careful not to overwater as it's prone to root rot. H x S: 50cm x 50cm

• Buy Philodendron 'White Measure' from Thompson & Morgan, Dobies and Suttons

Philodendron gloriosum

One of the trickier species to grow, Philodendron gloriosum has dramatic large green leaves with white veins, and is perfect for using as a statement piece in a living room. It thrives in bright but indirect light and more humidity than other philodendrons. Be careful not to over-water it as it's prone to root rot. H x S: 90cm x 90cm

• Buy Philodendron gloriosum from House of Kojo

Philodendron selloum

Also known as horsehead philodendron, due to its leaf shape, Philodendron selloum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum) has an upright habit and large, glossy, split leaves. It  can be mistaken for the Swiss cheese plant, Monstera deliciosa, with which it is closely related. Relatively easy to grow, Philodendron selloum thrives in bright but indirect light and needs moderate amounts of moisture. H x S: 1.5m x 1.5m

The variety 'Little Hope' has a more compact growth habit. H x S: 60cm x 60cm.

• Buy Philodendron 'Little Hope' from Thompson & Morgan and Suttons

Philodendron scandens

Formerly Philodendron hederaceum and commonly known as heartleaf philodendron, this trailing variety can be trained to climb up a trellis, obelisk or moss pole, but is equally beautiful when allowed to trail from a hanging pot or shelf. It has glossy heart-shaped leaves and is fast growing. Popular varieties include Philodendron 'Brasil', which has variegated leaves in different shades of green, and Philodendron 'Micans' which has dark green, velvety leaves with a pink hue. H x S: 4m x 1m

• Buy Philodendron 'Brasil' from Crocus
• Buy Philodendron 'Micans' from Crocus

Philodendron verrucosum

The heart-shaped leaves of this climbing philodendron are deep green with attractive red undersides. A trickier philodendron to grow, Philodendron verrucosum requires cooler temperatures of 16-21ºC but high humidity, of around 70 per cent. It's therefore ideal for a cool bathroom, where it will receive bright but indirect light. H x S: 4m x 1m

• Buy Philodendron verrucosum from Crocus

Philodendron rugosum

A climber, Philodendron rugosum has unusually textured leaves that are said to resemble stretched pigskin. It's relatively easy to grow, given the right conditions of bright but indirect light, regular watering and higher than average humidity. H x S: 1m x 3m

• Buy Philodendron rugosum from House of Kojo

Philodendron 'Prince of Orange'

This unusual variety bears bright orange leaves that mature to a deep green. Easy to care for, grow in bright but indirect light and water regularly. It's ideal for making a statement in a bathroom. H x S: 60cm x 60cm

• Buy Philodendron 'Prince of Orange' from Crocus

Philodendron billietiae

This rare philodendron plant has a climbing habit and large, waxy leaves with prominent cream-white veining. Like all philodendrons it benefits from warmth, humidity and bright but indirect light. H x S: 1.2m x 60cm

• Buy Philodendron billietiae from Happy Houseplants

Philodendron brandtianum

Often referred to as silver leaf philodendron or just Philodendron brandi, Philodendron brandtianum bears beautiful silver and green variegated leaves. It's the perfect philodendron plant for a shelf or hanging pot, where it thrives in bright but indirect light and around 60 per cent humidity. H x S: 40m x 30cm

• Buy Philodendron brandtianum from Thompson & Morgan, Suttons

Philodendron mamei

A very rare species with large, heart-shaped leaves with unusual silvery markings. This species can tolerate lower humidity than some other philodendron plants, although still thrives in a humid environment. H x S: 1.2m x 1.2m

• Buy Philodendron mamei from House of Kojo

Philodendron 'Ring of Fire'

Also known as 'tiger tooth' due to the ragged edges of its leaves, Philodendron 'Ring of Fire' is a striking variety that has deep green, glossy leaves with orange and yellow blotches, which are said to resemble flickering flames. A compact philodendron, 'Ring of Fire' is easy to care for. H x S: 1.2m x 60cm

• Buy Philodendron 'Ring of Fire' from Crocus

Philodendron 'Imperial Red'

With an upright habit, Philodendron 'Imperial Red' has gorgeous red stems from which large, leathery leaves emerge a dark red and mature to burgundy. Easy to care for, it thrives in a variety of habitats although does best in a humid environment, such as a bathroom. H x S: 1.2m x 1.2m

• Buy Philodendron 'Imperial Red' from Dobies, Crocus and Suttons

Philodendron 'Xanadu'

This upright, shrubby philodendron is easy to grow and thrives in a variety of situations, making it the perfect choice for making a statement for very little effort. Philodendron 'Xanadu' has dark green, 'horsehead' leaves with reddish undersides and stems. H x S: 1m x 1m

• Buy Philodendron 'Xanadu' from Crocus, Suttons, Thompson & Morgan

]]> How to grow and care for a ponytail palm https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/ponytail-palm-beaucarnea-recurvata/ Thu, 03 Apr 2025 10:07:46 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/ponytail-palm-beaucarnea-recurvata/ Advice on growing and caring for the ponytail palm, with tips on watering, feeding and repotting. The ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is an eye-catching and low-maintenance house plant. Despite its name, it's not a true palm but belongs to the Asparagaceae family. Native to Mexico, it's also known as Nolina (its former genus name), the elephant's foot tree or bottle palm due to its swollen trunk base. Its unique appearance, resilience and ease of care make it an excellent choice for beginner and experienced gardeners.

The ponytail palm is easily recognisable by long, slender and arching leaves that resemble a ponytail, hence its name. It can reach a height of 4.5m in the wild, but more realistically 2.5m when grown indoors.

As a slow-growing perennial plant, the ponytail palm can live for several decades when properly cared for, with some specimens known to last for over 100 years.

How to care for a ponytail palm

The ponytail palm is naturally a desert-dweller, so is tolerant of drought and sunlight. This makes it one of the easiest house plants to grow, as you won't need to water it very often.

Watering

Your watering regime will make or break a ponytail palm. Hydrate the soil too often and it will develop root rot within weeks. We recommend watering every four to six weeks, all year round, with the compost allowed to completely dry out between waterings. This means that for the majority of the time, your plant will be sitting in dry compost, which is ideal.

Light and location

Sunlight is critical for success with ponytail palm. With this in mind, position your ponytail palm on a sunny windowsill or in a conservatory. Never place it more than 50cm from a window as it will show signs of light stress (elongated leggy growth and stem collapse).

Soil and fertilisers

Choose a peat-free 'cactus and succulent' compost. Avoid using a generic house plant compost as this is designed more for tropical, moisture-loving house plants.

Feed your ponytail palm with a house plant or cactus and succulent liquid feed, only every three months.

Temperature and humidity

Being a desert plant, ponytail palm is used to temperature extremes. It can withstand temperatures down to 8ºC and up to 35ºC. Average house humidity is also well suited to ponytail palm, however if the leaf tips start turning brown you may want to mist it to increase humidity.

Pruning

The only pruning that's needed for a ponytail palm is snipping off any yellowed/browned leaf tips off to maintain a good appearance. Never cut the plant back to the base by removing the leaves and stems, as this may kill it.

Staking

Staking isn't necessary for the ponytail palm. If it feels wobbly in the soil, this is most likely root rot, so act quickly to rectify this.

How to repot a ponytail palm

Ponytail palms need repotting only once every five years, as being in the same pot for several seasons mimics their natural rocky habitat, where roots may be constricted.

1. Water the compost around twelve hours before you repot it to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. Choose a pot that’s only a few centimetres wider than the original, and part fill it with 4cm of fresh, peat-free 'cactus and succulent’ compost.
4. Place the ponytail palm's rootball on top of the compost, making sure it's sitting at the correct depth, before filling the gaps around it with further compost. Tap the side of the pot several times with your fingers to remove any air pockets. Never push the potting mix down to compact it as this can affect aeration and drainage.
5. Water thoroughly and allow the water to drain fully before positioning your palm in its original position. Once the repotting is complete, wait two weeks before watering again.

How to propagate a ponytail palm

The most successful way to propagate a ponytail palm is to take stem cuttings, but, as ponytail palm is so slow-growing, it will take several years for the cutting to grow to a sizeable plant. This is best done when repotting your palm or if it has root rot and you need to take drastic action to save it.

1. Choose a stem that is at least 20cm in height and prune it away from the main root using a clean pair of secateurs.
2. Apply rooting hormone gel to the wound's surface area if you want to. This isn't strictly necessary but may improve chances of a successful cutting.
3. Part fill a 12cm pot with peat-free, cactus and succulent compost. With your finger, push a hole three-quarters deep into the potting mix, around halfway between the centre and the edge of the pot – cuttings planted towards the edge tend to generate a better root system than cuttings placed in the centre. Place the cutting into the hole and cover any gaps with the surrounding soil.
4. Water the soil with lukewarm water. Keep the potted cutting in a warm room (ideally above 20ºC) with bright, indirect light. Avoid placing it in direct sun as this may increase the likelihood of dehydration, resulting in a stressed cutting that won't root sufficiently.
5. When new fresh new leaves begin to develop at the tip, this means the plantlet has successfully rooted. You can now treat it as an adult ponytail palm – keep it in the same pot for two years, watering the soil only once every six weeks.

Common issues

Yellowing older leaves is natural and nothing to worry about. If, however, the stem feels soft and the plant feels loose in the soil, this could be root rot, which will need addressing immediately.

A lack of new growth can be down to the location not being warm or sunny enough, but equally could just be a case of the plant's usual slow growing nature.

Brown or yellow leaf tips can be a sign of root rot, but if the plant feels secure in the soil, try not to worry. Ponytail palms will never look perfect as they age, so accept the imperfections or prune the brown/yellow tips off to improve appearance.

Leggy, lop-sided growth is most likely due to low light. Ensure your ponytail palm receives a good amount of sunlight per day, either on a windowsill or in a conservatory.

Root rot causes rapidly yellowing leaves and a stem that's loose in the soil (meaning it's wobbly when touched). Take the plant out of its pot and look for signs of rot, such as dark, flat roots that can be pulled away easily. If you do find dead roots, remove them and the surrounding compost, while keeping healthy roots with compost intact. If more than 50 per cent of the roots have rotted, repot the plant into a smaller pot that will keep the rootball tight. For those with less than half of the roots being rotten, repot back into the same pot and fill the remaining gaps with fresh cactus and succulent compost.

Pests and diseases

Common pests include red spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs. The first two of these thrive in dry environments, so mist the leaves regularly with a plant mister or stand the pot on a tray of moist pebbles to increase humidity.

Mealybugs can be picked off by hand. Large infestations can be treated with insecticidal soap.

Toxicity

The ponytail palm is not classified poisonous to humans or pets, but its sharp edges may cut through the skin when handled.

Varieties to grow

Beaucarnea recurvata – the most common ponytail palm you can find in a garden centre or shop. Height x Spread: 2m x 1m
Beaucarnea recurvata f. variegata' – slightly harder to find in physical stores, but offers bright striped foliage to brighten any window. H x S: 1.8m x 90cm

Advice on buying a ponytail palm

• When purchasing a ponytail palm, choose a healthy plant with vibrant-green leaves and a well-formed base. Inspect the foliage for any signs of pests or diseases

Where to buy ponytail palm

• Gardening Express
• Hortology
• The Palm Centre
• Plant World London

Frequently asked questions

Where should I put my ponytail palm in my house?

Place your ponytail palm in the sunniest position possible, such as on a sunny windowsill or in a conservatory. 

What are the disadvantages of ponytail palms?

Two disadvantages of owning a ponytail palm are that it will grow very slowly and the leaves are sharp and could cut through skin when handled.

How long do ponytail palms last?

Ponytail palms live for at least 20 years in the right care, but most likely longer if the plant is kept on a warm, sunny windowsill.

What does an overwatered ponytail palm look like?

The soil will feel moist all the time and will smell 'earthy'. The stem will be loose in the potting mix, meaning it will feel wobbly when handled. The leaves may also turn yellow or brown after a few weeks.

Should I cut the brown tips off of my ponytail palms?

Pruning the browned leaf tips will improve the appearance of your ponytail palm, but make sure it's done with a clean pair of scissors.

How do you make a ponytail palm happy?

Keep your ponytail palm in a sunny. location and water only every four to six weeks.

What happens to a ponytail palm after it blooms?

The chances of your palm flowering indoors is extremely unlikely, but for those that do bloom, nothing bad will happen afterwards. The plant will continue to grow normally once the final flower elapses.

Are ponytail palms easy to keep alive?

Absolutely. Ensure the soil dries out for at least four weeks before watering again and provide it with as sunny a location as possible.

]]> How to care for succulents https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/succulent-care/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 14:30:51 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/succulent-care/ Advice on caring for an indoor succulent, including watering, feeding and repotting. Succulents are a great choice for those who have windowsills that receive plenty of sunlight.

Succulents come from many parts of the world, in many different shapes and sizes. What unites them is their ability to withstand long periods without water. Many are native to dry, arid regions, including deserts, where rainfall is scarce – as such they need very little watering.

How to look after a succulent plant?

Caring for succulents is easy, as long as you meet their light and watering needs. It's important to allow all of the compost to dry out in between watering, as they're prone to root/basal rot in moist conditions. Remember to also keep them in the sunniest location in your home, which is usually on an east-, south- or west- facing windowsill. Conservatories and heated greenhouses are also acceptable locations for succulents, but just ensure the temperature always remains above 8ºC.

Watering

Water your succulent every four weeks between April and October, and every six weeks for the rest of the year, and reduce watering further, to once every two months, if the temperature falls below 12ºC. Remember that the colder the location, the less frequently you'll need to rehydrate your succulents. Only rehydrate your succulent once its compost becomes fully dry for at least a week. Generally speaking, this will be once every four weeks.

As mentioned above, you must let the compost become fully dry between waterings. Use the phrase 'drenches between droughts' to guide your watering regime, as your succulents will do best when fully drenched before being left for at least a month for the compost to dry out. When watering, pour the water through the soil until the compost is completely saturated and the water drips from the pot's drainage holes below – if the water drains through the pot immediately that means the compost is too dry to absorb the water and you may need to sit it in the water for a few minutes to hydrate fully, before allowing it to drain. Once the compost is completely saturated, place the pot on a drying rack to drain for 10 minutes before moving it back to its usual spot.

Light and location

Grow succulents in the sunniest parts of your home, such as a south-facing windowsill. Succulents need at least three hours of sunshine per day – anything darker than an east- or west-facing windowsill is not appropriate for a succulent.

The only succulent you can grow away from the windowsill are mistletoe cacti (Rhipsalis) and Christmas cacti.

Compost and fertilisers

Use only use a peat-free cactus and succulent compost, which is free draining and has the right balance of nutrients for succulent plants.

Feed succulents every three months, ideally using a liquid cactus fertiliser. Make sure the compost is moist at the time of application.

Temperature and humidity

You may be surprised to learn that succulents do well in low temperatures, down to 8ºC. In winter, if you have single glazing and temperatures on your windowsill are likely to dip below 8ºC, move your succulents away from the window to protect them. Use a thermometer to guide you if necessary.

Average room humidity is perfect for succulents, but avoid more humid environments such as bathrooms.

Pruning

You'll notice the oldest leaves (those closest to the soil) may yellow or crisp over from time to time. This is entirely normal and is typical as succulents mature. It's a good idea to keep any yellowing leaves on the plant until they naturally drop off, as the plant may be taking some of the nutrients from that leaf and using them to promote new growth.

Some succulents can be pruned. Those with branching stems can be pruned down to your desired size, to promote branching at the lower end of the stem, creating a bushier habit. You can use either a clean pair of scissors or secateurs for this job.

Staking

When an upright-growing succulent has become old and lopsided, simply use a thin chopstick-sized cane to prop the succulent up. For those growing trailing succulents like sedum or Christmas cacti, allow them to freely hang over the pot to create a beautiful pendulous display.

How to repot a succulent

Succulents thrive when potbound for several years, so repot yours only every four to five years. Only use a cactus and succulent compost, as other house plant composts will retain too much moisture that could cause root rot in the future.

1. Water your succulent 12 hours before you repot it to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. Choose a pot that’s only slightly wider than the original, then add around 3cm of fresh, peat-free cactus and succulent compost into the newer, empty pot.
3. Remove the plant from its original pot and sit its rootball on top of the compost in the new container. Check you're happy with the level it sits at in the pot and then fill any remaining gaps with further compost and tap the side of the pot several times to remove any air pockets. Never compact the compost down with your fingers as it may stop the compost draining efficiently.
4. Finally, give the plant a thorough soak until the water drains out of the drainage holes. Leave it to drain for 10 minutes before moving it back to its original location to minimise shock.

How to propagate a succulent

There are three ways to propagate a succulent: leaf cuttings, stem cuttings and basal ('pup') division. They are all relatively easy, with the exception of the latter that could disturb the plant as you'll be handling its rootball.

Leaf cuttings 

This is a fun, easy way to propagate succulents like sedum, crassula (jade plants), and more.

1. Choose the largest leaf from the plant and bend the leaf downwards until you hear the snap. You must ensure the leaf doesn't tear or have a damaged node as this will stop any chance of it rooting.
2. Place the leaf on a dry tissue for two days in a sunless windowsill to callous over its wound. Avoid direct sunlight during this two-day period as this may cause stress.
3. Fill a 7cm pot three-quarters with peat-free, cactus and succulent compost.
4. Vertically place the bottom quarter of the leaf into the soil, at a slight angle of 45º.
5. Water the soil and place it in a bright, sunless window to root. Only rehydrate the soil once it becomes fully dry, which unusually will be every three weeks. Roots will emerge first within a few weeks, followed by new leaf production soon after.

Stem cuttings

This method of propagation is great for old leggy specimens that need to be pruned back, or for succulents that have a serious case of root rot and the base of the plant cannot be saved. What's more, if a branch has been accidentally snapped off, you can easily reroot it and grown on as a separate plant. However, in some cases, the branch may be a little too large, so you should consider dividing the stem up to make smaller cuttings.

1. Prune the top quarter of the stem using a clean pair of scissors. Ensure the stem is mature enough though, so avoid doing this propagation for now if the stem will be shorter than 5cm.
2. Sit the stem cutting on a dry tissue for around two days to callous its wound. A sunless windowsill would be the perfect location to keep it for this period.
3. Fill a 10cm pot with 'cactus and succulent' labelled potting mix and use your finger to push a hole three-quarters deep. Place the cutting's bottom into the hole and push the soil fill the remaining gaps.
4. Only water the soil once it fully dries out and ensure your cutting is kept in a windowsill. Roots will form within around six to eight weeks, with new leaf production taking a few weeks further.

Basal offset division

Often referred to as 'pups', many succulents including Haworthia, Gasteria and Aloe will produce offsets from the base of the stem, slightly beneath the soil. Consider this method of propagation only once the offset is around half the size of the mother plant.

1. Water your succulent around 12 hours before separation to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. Take the plant out of its pot and begin to locate the pups using your fingers – you may have to scrape off the top layer of compost to locate them.
3. Once you have found an offset, pull it downwards until you hear a 'snap'. Gently loosen the soil if you can't gently pull the offset's root system out on the first time, or use a sharp knife if this is proving difficult.
4. Then, gently tease the offset's roots from the main rootball and pot it individually into a 7-10cm pot, filled with peat-free cactus and succulent compost. Avoid using a terracotta pot while the cutting is young, as terracotta can dry out the soil too much.
5. Keep the parent plant in its original pot for another year, filling any gaps created by the division with fresh compost, and continue to care for it in the same way as you did before. The offsets can be cared for in the same way as the parent and placed in a similar location, too.

Common issues

Yellowing or crispy older leaves is normal for succulents and usually is a sign of good health. If, however, the succulents stem has become soft and the soil is moist all of the time, take it out of the pot and scan the rootball's outer edge for signs of rot (brown, deflated roots that can easily be pulled off from the soil with no resistance).

Red or purple leaves is also normal behaviour and indicates that the plant is blocking the sunlight's intense rays. Unless the foliage remains wilted/wrinkled all of the time (even a few days after being watered), don't relocate the plant. Keep it in the same location and it will slowly get used to this location.

Mealybugs are a common pest that can attack all succulents. Although plants can take two years to show signs of ill health from mealybugs, it's best to remove them as soon as you notice them. Remove them by hand and wipe the foliage down regularly to ensure they have been completely eradicated. For large infestations, consider using a predatory wasp such as Anagyrus vladimiri, which works best at temperatures around 25ºC.

Toxicity

Most succulents are non-toxic when eaten, but some plants to avoid are Kalanchoe (flaming Katie) and Euphorbia (African milk tree) which can cause an upset stomach if ingested.

Advice on buying succulents

• Make sure you have the right growing conditions before buying succulents – most need a sunny, sheltered spot, so on or near a windowsill is ideal
• Many garden centres have a good range of succulents on sale, but there is even more choice online, especially from specialist suppliers
• Always check for signs of damage or pests and diseases before potting up

Where to buy succulents

• Suttons
• Crocus
• Thompson & Morgan

Succulent varieties to grow

Ledebouria socialis – a unique succulent with leaves that have a purple underside and spotted green top. Height x Spread: 35cm x 35cm

• Buy Ledebouria socialis from Piccolo Plants Nursery

Haworthia fasciata – an excellent, low maintenance rosette-shaped succulent with zebra-patterned stripes on its leaves. Varieties include 'Big Band'. H x S: 15cm x 15cm

• Buy Haworthia 'Big Band' from Crocus

Sedum morganianum – a slow-growing trailing succulent that can be propagated via stem and leaf cuttings. Boasts a glaucous appearance that'll contrast well with other trailing plants nearby. H x S: 80cm x the width of its pot

• Buy Sedum morganianum from Crocus

Sedum × rubrotinctum – the jelly bean succulent is a fun, easy-care plant that will produce small pearl shaped leaves that often sport a red, yellow or green tone. H x S: 30cm x 20cm

• Buy Sedum × rubrotinctum from houseplant.co.uk

Frequently asked questions

Can succulent plants live outside?

Most succulents can tolerate temperatures down to around 8ºC, but some, such as sempervivums and agaves, can easily tolerate freezing conditions.

What to do when succulent leaves fall off?

The gradual loss of its older leaves is normal and should cause worry. If, however, the leaves are dropping off much quicker than usual, we recommend having a look at the root system for signs of root rot.

]]> How to grow and care for an African milk tree https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/african-milk-tree-euphorbia-trigona/ Tue, 01 Apr 2025 10:53:17 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/african-milk-tree-euphorbia-trigona/ All you need to know about growing and caring for an African milk tree, in our Grow Guide. African milk tree (Euphorbia trigona) is a cactus-like succulent with an upright ridged stem that develops reddish spines. It originates from Central Africa and is also known as cathedral cactus, marble column and Abyssinian euphorbia. This slow-growing, architectural house plant can grow to around 2m in height. Euphorbia trigona is poisonous to humans and pets, and its sap is an eye and skin irritant.

How to grow African milk tree

Grow African milk tree in a warm room in bright indirect light. Water only when the soil has dried out to avoid overwatering.

Where to grow Euphorbia trigona

Euphorbia trigona grows best in temperatures of 15-27°C and is likely to suffer in cold draughts. Put it in bright indirect light in a room with dry air. It can take direct sunlight, but make sure it doesn’t scorch in the midday sun.

How to plant African milk tree

You should be able to leave your plant in its pot when it arrives and simply place it in a decorative outer pot. When your African milk tree needs repotting, choose a container that is heavy enough to support the plant (they can get top-heavy) and use peat-free compost – a free-draining mix for succulents or cacti is ideal.

How to care for African milk tree

Euphorbia trigona is easy to grow and fairly drought-tolerant, though it does require regular watering. The frequency of watering depends factors such as plant size and room temperature. In general, water your African milk tree as soon as the compost has dried out.

The leaves are short-lived, but if many leaves drop – especially in summer – check that your plant isn’t suffering from a lack of water. Over time, new leaves will replace old ones. Prune in early spring, if necessary, to reduce your plant’s size. Apply a half-strength liquid fertiliser or specialist feed once a month in the growing season (spring and summer).

How to propagate Euphorbia trigona

Propagate in late spring or early summer by taking cuttings. Use offshoot arms as cuttings and treat cut areas with charcoal or rinse with water to stop the sap bleeding. Leave cuttings for a few days to callus over, then place in compost and keep barely moist. They should root in around two months. Remember to use skin and eye protection when working with Euphorbia trigona to avoid contact with its toxic, irritant sap.

Pests and diseases

Euphorbia trigona is generally problem-free, but can attract mealybugs.

Buying advice

• Check that you have the right spot in your home for an African milk tree. It does best in bright indirect light with dry air
• Ensure your African milk tree is healthy, with an undamaged stem and foliage, and no signs of pests

Where to buy Euphorbia trigona

• Oxy-plants
• Houseplant
• Beards & Daisies

Varieties of African milk tree to grow

Euphorbia trigona: This is the green form, sometimes listed as African milk tree 'Green'.

• Buy Euphorbia trigona from Beards & Daisies

Euphorbia trigona f. rubra: The commonly-sold variety is the red-leaved African milk tree, which has a magenta red flush to its stem and leaves. It is sometimes referred to as 'Royal Red'.

• Buy Euphorbia trigona f. rubra from Gardening Express

]]> How to care for peace lily https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/how-to-grow-peace-lily/ Thu, 13 Mar 2025 12:54:32 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/how-to-grow-peace-lily/ All you need to know about caring for a peace lily, Spathiphyllum wallisii, in our house plant care guide. Peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) is a popular, low-maintenance house plant with glossy, green leaves and white flowers called spathes. Native to Central America, it thrives in a warm, humid environment and is perfect for growing in a bright bathroom. Peace lilies are easy to grow and relatively trouble-free.

The name 'peace lily' relates to its white flowers, which are thought to look like white flags (a symbol of peace). The peace lily isn't actually a lily but an arum, and belongs to the same family as Zantedeschia and lords-and-ladies (Arum maculatum), as well as less obvious plants such as the Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) and dumb cane (Dieffenbachia).

Watering (how to and how much)

Watering is arguably the most important aspect in a peace lily's care regime. Only rehydrate the soil once the top third has dried out – check if the soil is dry by feeling the compost on top, and if small soil flakes stick to your finger there's no need to water just yet. The frequency of watering shouldn't change throughout the year as they generally don't go into a state of dormancy.

Light and location

Peace lilies thrive in bright but indirect sunlight, so near a north, north–east or north–west facing window is ideal – small plants work well on a window sill. They don't do well on shelves unless the light source is directly above them (for example beneath a skylight).

Over time, dust will accumulate on the leaves so wipe these as needed to ensure the leaves photosynthesise properly. This will also improve the look of your peace lily.

Soil and fertilisers

Soil: the best soil for repotting a peace lily is either a generic, peat-free 'house plant' labelled potting mix, or a more expensive (but generally better) 'peace lily' labelled compost.

Fertiliser: peace lilies respond well to regular feeds. Use a 'house plant' labelled fertiliser every third watering, all year round. Foliar spray feeds can help increase the likelihood of repeat flowering by applying them fortnightly.

Temperature and humidity

Typical temperatures in our homes (15–25℃) are perfect for peace lilies. Never expose them to temperatures lower than this as the risk of leaf damage and root rot is high. In a dry room you can increase humidity by sitting your peace lily on a tray of pebbles and water, ensuring the water sits just below the pebbles so it doesn't wick up into the compost and cause root rot.

Pruning

With a clean pair of scissors, prune away any brown leaves or spent flowers to improve its appearance. If leaves are yellow, it's best to keep them until they turn brown as the plant will be able to draw nutrients from them.

Staking

It's not necessary to stake a peace lily. If the leaves are constantly drooping or leaning outwards (as if someone has sat in the middle of it), this could be caused by root rot. If all of its leaves are leaning towards the light of a window, simply rotate the plant 180 degrees to ‘straighten’ it up again.

How to repot a peace lily

Your peace lily will do best when pot bound, so don’t be tempted to disturb it too often. When you do come around to repotting it, make sure you treat the root system with the utmost care as it’s easy to cause transplant shock. Symptoms of this include wilting or yellowed leaves within a few days of repotting.

1. Water the soil around twelve hours before you repot it to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. Choose a pot that’s only a few centimetres wider than the original, and add 4cm of fresh, peat-free 'house plant’ or 'peace lily' labelled potting mix.
4. Place the rootball on top of the compost, before filling the gaps around it with further compost. Tap the side of the pot several times to remove any air pockets.
5. Finally, give the plant a thorough soak until the water drains out of the drainage holes. Move back to its original location to minimise shock.

How to propagate a peace lily

The main way to propagate your peace lily is through dividing the offsets in spring. You must be extremely careful with the root system, as any disturbance could cause transplant shock, which will result in the plant wilting, even after watering. Division is best done with lilies older than two years.

1. Water the soil around 12 hours before dividing the rootball.
2. Take the plant out of its pot and find the offsets – they look like smaller versions of the parent plant.
3. With a clean sharp knife, cut the offsets away from the parent plant until you hear a 'snap'.
4. Then gently tease the offsets' roots from the main rootball and pot them up individually into 10cm pots filled with peat-free, house plant compost.
5. Keep the parent plant in its original pot for another year. Fill any gaps created by the division with fresh compost and continue to care for the plant in the same way as you did before. The offsets can be cared for in the same way as the parent.

Common issues (how to diagnose problems)

Yellowing older leaves are a common sight with peace lilies, but this doesn't mean the plant is unwell if there's only the odd leaf (at a rate of one per month, or slower). For lilies that have more than a third of the leaves turning yellow, try having a look at the root system for any signs of rot. A dying root system will be brown or mushy, and a root strand can be easily pulled from the soil with no difficulty.

A lack of flowers can be down to the location not being right (a lack of natural dappled light or incorrect temperatures) and can easily be fixed. An application of fertiliser every third water will also increase its chances of flowering.

Brown leaf tips can occur as the leaf naturally matures. In some cases, prolonged dehydration (in the soil or atmosphere via low humidity) can speed the process of leaf tips browning over.

Curling or drooping leaves may be caused by too much heat or sunlight exposure, transplant shock or root rot. Make sure your peace lily is growing in a spot with average room temperatures, not too close to a south-facing window and is not sitting in water. If you suspect your peace lily has transplant shock, continue watering only when the top third of the compost has dried out, and it should perk back up eventually.

Toxicity

Unfortunately, peace lily is classified poisonous when ingested by humans and pets.

Peace lily varieties to grow

Spathiphyllum 'Chopin' – the traditional, most common peace lily you can find in a garden centre. H x S: 50cm x 50m
Spathiphyllum 'Pearl Cupido' – a medium sized variety that boasts bold, dark green leaves. H x S: 1m x 80cm
Spathiphyllum 'Diamond' – the new kid on the block, sporting white variegations as if someone has flicked paint on the leaves. H x S: 80cm x 0.5m
Spathiphyllum 'Sensation' – the largest variety of peace lily currently grown in nurseries. This plant is best suited for large rooms with big windows. H x S: 1.3m x 1m

Frequently asked questions

Where should I put my peace lily in my house?

Peace lilies do best within 1m of a north, north–east or north–west facing window, preferably on a windowsill. Make sure this area doesn't receive more than two hours of direct sunlight as sun scorch is common. 

What are the disadvantages of peace lilies?

Two downsides of owning a peace lily is that it can develop root rot quite easily, especially when grown in locations more than 1m from a window. The other disadvantage is that a peace lily is poisonous when ingested.

How long do peace lilies last?

In terms of flowers, a typical show of blooms can last at least two months. After this period, your peace lily will still grow new leaves and potentially more flowers next spring.

What does an overwatered peace lily look like?

You'll know if your lily is overwatered as the soil smells earthy or has mould growing on the surface. Its leaves will be yellowed and curled/wilted, even when the soil is kept moist.

Should I cut the brown tips off of my peace lily?

Pruning the browned leaf tips will improve the appearance of your peace lily.

How can I get my peace lily to flower again?

For the best chance of your peace lily flowering again, keep it in a bright spot out of direct sunshine. You can also buy foliar feeds to promote flowers, which you mist over the leaves once every two weeks.

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