BBC Gardeners World Magazine https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems Wed, 08 Oct 2025 11:42:38 GMT en hourly 1 Dealing with couch grass https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/couch-grass/ Wed, 08 Oct 2025 11:00:49 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/couch-grass/ Find out how to remove couch grass from your garden. Couch grass is a common problem in cultivated garden areas, owing to its vigorous, spreading underground stems. Couch grass is easily spread by cultivation because it regrows from even tiny pieces of root left in the soil, but is straightforward to restrict when identified at an early stage. It's worth bearing in mind that couch grass does have benefits for wildlife: the leaves are a foodplant for the caterpillars of many types of butterflies and moths, and clumps provide shelter for other invertebrates, such as beetles. Couch grass could therefore be allowed to grow in garden lawns or wilder areas, where it can be kept from spreading into beds and borders.

What is couch grass?

Couch grass, also known as twitch or scutch, is a perennial grass species that is native to the UK, and which grows widely in farmland, road verges, and uncultivated land, as well as in gardens. The botanical name of couch grass is Elymus repens.

Identifying couch grass

Above ground, couch grass can be confused with other grasses, with its flat green blades that can reach 40cm long. But digging up the plant will reveal its spreading underground stems (rhizomes). These rhizomes are a pale cream or white colour and have a sharp growing point. Knowing what couch grass looks like, when compared to annual ‘weed’ grasses and lawn grasses, is important, so that you can spot and eradicate it at an early stage. Thin, yellow-green flower spikes appear in mid to late summer and can reach up to 120cm high.

Does couch grass cause problems?

Couch grass is only a problem in cultivated areas like garden borders and vegetable beds. Here, not only does couch grass spread rapidly to form dense mats of underground stems, but the major problem occurs when it grows through the root systems of garden plants, when it becomes very difficult to eradicate. It competes with plants for water and nutrients and reduces crop yields in vegetable beds. Gardeners battling with it often ask can you ever get rid of couch grass. The answer is yes, though it often takes a few goes to eradicate it completely. In a lawn, couch grass is less of a problem, because regular mowing keeps its growth in check. However, be aware that its underground stems are likely to spread into adjacent beds and borders.

Couch grass and the law

There are no laws relating to couch grass. However, if you have couch grass growing where it may spread to neighbouring plots, it is considerate to keep it in check.

How to prevent couch grass

Tackling couch grass at an early stage will save a lot of hard work later. Try and prevent it becoming established as it will be harder to eradicate. Watch out for couch grass spreading into your garden from neighbouring plots or wild land. If this is the case, dig a trench in the ground along your boundary, at least 30cm deep, and line with a tough material such as special root barrier membrane (the sharp tips of couch grass roots can pierce plastic or thin membrane).

Help prevent couch grass spreading from a lawn into an adjacent flower bed by installing a lawn edging strip. While this is unlikely to stop the spread of all growth, couch grass is shallow rooted, so it will certainly work to some extent. The seeds produced by couch grass are relatively few and only a small proportion are likely to germinate, but it’s still a wise precaution to remove and bin any that appear.

How to control couch grass

Dig out all the roots and underground stems of this grass, especially at the edge of infested lawns. It's best to use a garden fork to carefully lift out networks of the rhizomes. A spade will cut them up and make it harder to find all the pieces. Where couch grass is growing in among long-lived plants in borders, it will be necessary to lift plants while dormant and tease out the weed from the rootballs. While systemic weedkiller can be used to control couch grass in areas apart from lawns, this is best considered as a last resort due to potential environmental impact.

How to remove couch grass

Avoid putting couch grass growth in your garden compost bin where it will continue to grow. Instead, dispose of it in your garden waste collection, or take it to your local council waste disposal site.

Frequently asked questions

What is another name for couch grass?
The botanical name of couch grass is Elymus repens. Other common names for couch grass are twitch grass, scutch, wickens, and grandmother grass.

How to prevent couch grass?
Dig up couch grass as soon as growth is seen. Prevent couch grass spreading in from outside by installing underground barriers or frequently digging up invading growth. Where couch grass is growing in lawns, regularly cultivate by cutting a fresh edge to the lawn using an edging iron and then turning over adjacent border soil using a fork to remove any couch grass roots which are spreading into borders. If bringing in topsoil or manure from outside, ensure it is free of perennial weed roots.

]]> Complete guide to identifying and removing tree of heaven https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/complete-guide-to-identifying-and-removing-tree-of-heaven/ Fri, 29 Aug 2025 10:22:22 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/complete-guide-to-identifying-and-removing-tree-of-heaven/ Advice on identifying and dealing with the invasive tree of heaven. Tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima) is a fast-growing tree that is banned from sale in the UK. Originally introduced from China in the 18th century, tree of heaven proved to be extremely tolerant of atmospheric pollution and was widely planted, but its speedy growth, fast reproduction, suckering habit and toxicity to nearby plants, has resulted in its classification as an invasive non-native species in accordance with EU Regulation 1143/2014 on invasive alien species and Schedule 9 of the Wildlife & Countryside Act.

What is tree of heaven?

Tree of heaven is a deciduous, large, and fast-growing tree. It forms a spreading crown of branches and readily produces suckers from the roots. Tree of heaven tolerates drought, full sun and poor soils, and sometimes even grows in paving cracks. Contact with tree of heaven growth can cause skin irritation to people and pets.

Identifying tree of heaven

Tree of heaven grows to an eventual height of 20-30m. It has large, pinnate leaves around 60cm long, although on young trees the leaves can grow up to 1m long. Young leaves are reddish green, maturing to green, and give off an unpleasant odour when crushed. Tree of heaven is dioecious, meaning the trees are either male or female. Female tree of heaven flower clusters are small and green in colour, and are followed by reddish, winged or key-like fruit, known as samaras. Male flowers are similar in appearance to female flowers but appear in greater numbers, and then wither away rather than develop fruit. The flowers of male trees have an unpleasant smell, said to be reminiscent of skunks.

Tree of heaven identification can be tricky – it can easily be confused with staghorn sumac, which has similar leaves but reddish rather than green flowers, and ash trees, which also have large pinnate green leaves but which don't release a bad smell when crushed.

Does tree of heaven cause problems?

The fast growth and suckering habit of tree of heaven means it is a problem tree, as it can quickly spread and out-compete native plants. Other problems include the dangers of skin irritation to people and pets, and its pollen, which can cause allergic reactions in some people.

Tree of heaven and the law

Tree of heaven is classed as an invasive, non-native species under EU Regulation 1143/2014 on invasive alien species and Schedule 9 of the UK Wildlife & Countryside Act. This means it's banned from sale, and it's an offence to plant or allow tree of heaven to spread into the wild. By law, any tree of heaven tree growing in a garden should be controlled and prevented from spreading into wild areas.

How to prevent tree of heaven

Pull up tree of heaven seedlings when young, before the deep tap root develops.

How to control tree of heaven

Regular cutting back restricts the growth of tree of heaven. If done annually, tree of heaven can be kept as a non-flowering shrub with large, attractive leaves. Cutting back, even to ground level, does not kill tree of heaven alone, unless herbicide is applied to the freshly cut stems. This is best done by professional contractors.

How to remove tree of heaven

After a mature tree of heaven has been cut down, the roots need to be removed or regrowth quickly occurs. Excavating the roots usually requires a mechanical digger. Using a powered stump grinder to remove the stump may not be sufficient to get rid of tree of heaven, because suckers are often produced from the roots and can appear many metres away.

Frequently asked questions

Is tree of heaven invasive in the UK?

Yes, tree of heaven is classed as an invasive non-native species under EU Regulation 1143/2014 on invasive alien species and Schedule 9 of the UK Wildlife & Countryside Act.

Is tree of heaven poisonous to other plants?

Tree of heaven is allelopathic, which means it gives off a chemical that inhibits the growth of other plants, but does not necessarily kill them.

]]> How to get rid of woodlice https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/how-to-get-rid-of-woodlice/ Tue, 12 Aug 2025 12:55:00 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/how-to-get-rid-of-woodlice/ Woodlice are harmless and a vital part of the garden ecosystem. Learn all about them in our guide. Woodlice are usually found in damp areas such as under containers, in compost heaps or beneath piles of plant debris. Also known as pill bugs and slaters, woodlice are around 15mm long with an outer shell or exoskeleton. There are around 30 species of woodlice in the UK. Related to crabs and lobsters, woodlice are land-based crustaceans.

Signs of woodlice

It's easy to find out if you have woodlice in your garden by lifting containers or large rocks and stones, and looking underneath them. You may also notice their excrement on rotten wood, which is small black and brown pellets known as frass. Sometimes you might notice their moulted exoskeletons, which woodlice shed as they grow.

Are woodlice good for the garden?

Woodlice benefit gardens by feeding on decaying plant matter and helping with decomposition. They are also a source of food for wildlife such as toads, shrews and ground beetles.

How to control woodlice in the garden

There's no need to control woodlice in the garden as they are not a pest. But if you want to reduce populations of woodlice in your garden, the best option would be to remove the types of habitat they look for, such as large rocks, containers, decaying matter such as compost heaps and log and leaf piles. Bear in mind that removing these types of habitat will also reduce numbers of other beneficial wildlife in your garden, such as ladybirds and ground beetles.

How to control woodlice indoors

It's possible for woodlice to come into the house from the garden but it's unlikely unless there are damp areas for them to thrive in. Common causes of woodlice coming indoors include blocked gutters, which provide decaying matter for them to feed on, and damp areas from condensation or leaks. If you find woodlice inside it's likely that you have a damp problem so the best thing to do is address the damp or condensation. Woodlice will not be attracted to live in a house that is dry and warm.

Check for any gaps or cracks in the wall or under doors.

Collect up any woodlice found indoors and move them back outdoors to a damp area away from the house.

Are woodlice under my pots causing damage

Woodlice shelter underneath pots because it's damp and dark. They don't cause damage because woodlice feed on dead plant material such as rotten wood, grass cuttings, fallen leaves and compost. Finding a large group of woodlice underneath your containers isn't a sign of a pest infestation – woodlice gather in groups to prevent themselves drying out. They require cool, damp places to shelter during the day.

Should I be concerned about woodlice?

There's no need to be concerned about woodlice. They are harmless to humans and plants, and beneficial to have in the garden. It's normal to have lots of woodlice in the garden.

Frequently asked questions

Do woodlice eat plants? 

Woodlice eat decaying plants. They rarely eat healthy plants but may occasionally feed on soft growth such as seedlings or fruit like strawberries. They are, however, far more likely to feed on rotting fruit, such as windfall apples.

Is a woodlouse an insect? 

A woodlouse is not classified as an insect. It is a terrestrial crustacean and therefore more closely related to crabs than insects.

]]> What is Himalayan balsam? https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/himalayan-balsam/ Wed, 28 May 2025 14:28:39 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/himalayan-balsam/ All you need to know about identifying and controlling Himalayan balsam, in our guide. What is Himalayan balsam?

Himalayan balsam (Impatiens glandulifera) is a tall annual weed that grows so vigorously it's classed as an invasive non-native plant species. Native to the Himalayas, it was originally introduced to the UK as a garden plant, but quickly spread into the countryside and is common along watercourses. Himalayan balsam is a major concern because it outcompetes native plants, thanks to its exploding seedpods, which disperse seeds over a wide area and into water.

The distinctive hooded shape of Himalayan balsam flowers has given rise to the popular common name of policeman’s helmet. Other common names include bobby tops, copper tops and Indian balsam.

How to identify Himalayan balsam

Himalayan balsam thrives in damp soil and is found alongside waterways, in marshes, and damp woodland edges. Plants can grow to a height of up to 2.5m. Leaves are lance-shaped, mid- to dark green, with red veins and serrated edges. The stems are hollow and hairless, and are usually yellow-green tinged with red. Flowers are borne in summer and can be pink, purple or occasionally white, and have an unusual, hooded shape. These are followed by green, kite-shaped seed pods, which are red-tinged. When ripe, the seed pods ‘explode’ and spread the seed as far as seven metres from the parent plant. Himalayan balsam completes its life cycle within one year and dies in autumn.

Is Himalayan balsam a problem?

Himalayan balsam is a problem plant and very invasive in the UK. In many areas the whole ecological balance of the landscape has been altered by Himalayan balsam and it's regarded as a huge problem by ecologists. Its height, ease of spread and density of growth, along with its ability to grow in low light levels, means it rapidly outcompetes native plants. Also, because Himalayan balsam is so popular with bees, it's thought that other plants may receive less pollination as a result. Himalayan balsam also contributes to erosion problems on river banks because growth disappears in winter, leaving bare soil vulnerable to high rainfall events.

Himalayan balsam is not dangerous to people or animals, and indeed, the flowers, foliage and seeds are edible. Use the young leaves and flowers in salads and the older leaves in soups and stews. Seeds are also edible and have a nutty flavour – collect these by carefully putting a paper bag over the ripe pods and gently shaking it so they explode. Wear eye protection when collecting seeds to avoid injury.

Is growing Himalayan balsam illegal?

Himalayan balsam is listed on Schedule 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act in England and Wales and it's on the Government's list of Invasive Non-Native Plant Species of special concern. While it's not an offence to have Himalayan balsam already growing in your garden, it is an offence to plant or otherwise cause it to grow in the wild. It's also banned from sale in the UK.

How to prevent Himalayan balsam

Prevent Himalayan balsam returning by removing the plants before the seed ripens. With regular checking and removal of new seedlings, it's possible to completely eradicate Himalayan balsam within a few years.

How to control Himalayan balsam

Himalayan balsam is a shallow-rooted annual and as such is relatively easy and effective to control by hand weeding. However, its abundant and vigorous growth means that controlling it can be a major task. Dispose of cut plant material by burning, or contact your local council if you need to dispose of it. Do not compost Himalayan balsam or put it in your garden or household waste bin, as it's classed as ‘controlled waste’.

How to remove Himalayan balsam

Simply pull up plants before they set seed and check back every few weeks to ensure no more plants have germinated. Larger areas can be strimmed regularly, again, provided this is done before any plants have set seed.

Frequently asked questions

Is Himalayan balsam as bad as Japanese knotweed?

While Japanese knotweed and Himalayan balsam are both invasive non-native plant species, Japanese knotweed is much worse because it's perennial, and the roots are extremely vigorous and wide-spreading.

What to do if you see Himalayan balsam?

On your own land, control Himalayan balsam as soon as you see it. If you see it growing in the wild, inform the landowner, as they may not be aware of its presence. You can help tackle Himalayan balsam by getting involved in local conservation working groups, with special working party days dedicated to Himalayan balsam removal.

]]> Dealing with horseweed (Erigeron canadensis) https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/erigeron-canadensis/ Thu, 28 Nov 2024 11:11:11 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/erigeron-canadensis/ Find out how to tackle horseweed, in our problem-solving guide What is horseweed?

Erigeron canadensis, also known as horseweed or Canadian fleabane, is an annual to biennial wildflower native to North and Central America, that is now considered a weed. It naturalises in waste ground and colonises uncultivated soil. It can grow up to between 50cm and 1.5m tall and produces tiny white flowers with yellow centres between June and September.

How to identify horseweed

Horseweed has tiny white flowers, bristly stems and narrow, hairy leaves. It has a carrot-like scent. Seeds can germinate in the autumn or spring. Autumn seedlings develop a rosette of leaves, which overwinters and resumes growing in spring.

How it causes problems

Each horseweed plant can produce up to 60,000 seeds, which are dispersed by the wind and germinate in the autumn. If left to self seed, it will quickly multiply and compete with ornamental and native wild plants for water and nutrients.

Horseweed and the law

Horseweed is not listed among those plants regulated under UK law, but it is noted by the RHS as having the potential to become a nuisance. Potentially invasive plants are usually plants that are either very vigorous or have the ability to spread easily.

How to control horseweed

Dig over the soil and remove any rosettes in the autumn. As the Erigeron canadensis life cycle is an annual one, the best method is to dig or pull it out before it has a chance to set seed.

Frequently asked questions

Should I pull horseweed?

Yes, pull or dig it out before it finishes flowering. This will prevent it from dispersing its seeds and creating new plants.

Is Erigeron canadensis good for anything? 

It was used by Native American in animal bedding to prevent fleas – hence the name 'fleabane'. Other uses of Erigeron canadensis have in the past included medicine and food. Native Americans have used it as a herbal medicine for illness such as dysentery, and to treat wounds. Horseweed has also been used in cooking – the leaves were used dried to add flavour to dishes such as soups and stews.

]]> How to deter grey squirrels https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/how-to-deter-grey-squirrels/ Thu, 14 Nov 2024 12:30:36 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/how-to-deter-grey-squirrels/ Use our tips on deterring grey squirrels from your plants, bird feeders and more. For some gardeners, the antics of grey squirrels are a source of entertainment, but for others squirrels are a nuisance, due to their habit of digging up bulbs and raiding bird feeders.

Introduced to the UK from the United States in the 1870s, the grey squirrel is legally classed as an invasive, non-native species and has since expanded its range, displacing our native red squirrel. The adaptability of the non-native squirrel means it's highly successful at surviving and reproducing in urban environments, which is why we encounter them so frequently.

More garden problems solved:

• Dealing with rats in the garden
• Spring bulb problems solved
• Plants resistant to honey fungus

Find out how to deal with grey squirrels in the garden, below.

Protect your plants

One of the most important things you can do if squirrels are an issue is to protect your plants. Seeds and young plants are particularly vulnerable, as squirrels will nip off soft shoots and dig up and eat seeds. Get around this by protecting young plants by sowing and growing in a greenhouse, propagator or cloche so the squirrels can't get to them.

Protect spring bulbs growing in pots by covering them with a layer of chicken wire or metal mesh. You can remove this after the bulbs start producing shoots. Tulips and crocus are particularly vulnerable. Watch the video above to discover several clever tricks for protecting your bulbs from squirrels.

In this video, Alan Titchmarsh offers his advice on how to stop squirrels digging in your pots.

View Green Video on the source website

Squirrel-proof your feeders

Nutritious bird seed mixes and peanuts are a magnet for grey squirrels. There are a number of ways to deter them, such as buying squirrel-proof bird feeders. These are usually surrounded by a metal cage that birds can get through but prevents squirrel entry, though there are many other designs, too.

Bird feeders on top of metal poles can be greased to prevent squirrels ascending them. Try smearing oil or vaseline on the metal pole to prevent them from gripping it – they'll soon give up. Remember, squirrels can leap surprising distances, so site feeders and tables away from fences and other high points that make it possible for them to reach their goal. Hanging bird feeders from washing lines or string is often not enough to stop squirrels from reaching feeders – their agility means they have little trouble walking these tightropes.

• What to feed garden birds all year round

Use fruit cages

Larger areas, particularly those used for growing tasty fruits and veg can be protected with the help of a fruit cage. Use a metal mesh to form the cage, as squirrels can nibble through plastic meshes, and non-metal meshes can act as nets that birds and other wildlife get tangled in. Fruit cages can be as big as you need them – some are waist height and others tall enough for you to stand in. You can also buy smaller cloches and tunnels to protect your crops from squirrels.

Grow food plants

Squirrels have a number of favourite food plants that, if grown, may distract their attention from your plants. Cobnuts and hazelnuts (Corylus) are a particular favourite and will provide a bounty of nuts for them to feast on. Keep in mind that they may be looking to bury or 'cache' these nuts, so they may dig up bulbs or other plants growing nearby in the process. If you do plant a hazel or other food plant for squirrels, it's best sited away from the most cultivated areas of your garden.

You could even go a step further and avoid buying bird seeds and feeds altogether, or at least in smaller amounts, by growing plants that provide seeds and berries for birds – hawthorn, holly, ivy and crab apples are some of the best.

Frighten them off

You can use a number of visual deterrents to scare off squirrels. Some gardeners have turned to artificial decoy birds of prey such as owls and falcons placed in a tree or other spot to fool squirrels. They can eventually become used to the presence of the decoy figure, so you may have to move it to a different area of the garden every so often.

• How to make a scarecrow

Watch out for breakable containers

In their quest for food, squirrels can knock over containers, which is particularly annoying if the containers are breakable and placed off the ground. Avoid any breakages by siting only the heaviest, unshakeable containers off the ground, as smaller ones are more likely to be pushed aside and broken.

]]> Skunk cabbage https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/skunk-cabbage/ Wed, 13 Nov 2024 10:44:01 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/skunk-cabbage/ Advice on identifying and dealing with skunk cabbage, in our guide. Skunk cabbage or American skunk cabbage (Lysichiton americanus) is a plant in the arum family, and looks similar to our native lords-and-ladies. Native to western North America, it bears a large yellow flower spathe up to 45cm in spring, followed by large leathery leaves up to 1.5m in length. It's typically found on pond margins, stream sides, bogs and wet woodlands. It gives off a powerful smell of rotting meat when in flower, which is to lure pollinating flesh flies.

In the UK skunk cabbage was added to the invasive plants list and banned from sale in 2016. This means it is banned from being planted in the wild, or otherwise caused to grow in the wild, which means gardeners must prevent any skunk cabbage growing in their garden escaping into the wild. Gardeners are also encouraged to dig up any skunk cabbage growing in their garden and dispose of it responsibly.

Why is skunk cabbage a problem?

American skunk cabbage was introduced to the UK as an ornamental plant for growing in bog gardens and pond margins in 1901, but quickly spread, and was first recorded growing in the wild in Surrey in 1947. A versatile and robust plant, it can grow in shade or full sun in a range of different soil conditions, and has become a problem in and around British waterways, where it out-competes native plants and mosses, and can block waterways.

How to control skunk cabbage

The best way to remove skunk cabbage is to dig it out by hand, as using chemicals on or near waterways could have devastating consequences far beyond the plants you are removing. Depending on where the skunk cabbage is growing, you may need to wear wellies or a full waterproof suit and stand in the pond to access the plants. Ensure you remove all of the plant, both above and below the soil, as skunk cabbage can regenerate from tiny pieces of rhizome.

Skunk cabbage seeds can remain viable for several years, so it can take a long time to fully eradicate the plant once it has escaped into the wild. However, it doesn't bear flowers or seeds until its third year, so can be relatively straightforward to remove young plants once the initial hard work of removing mature plants is complete.

If you need to wait to remove the whole plant, for example to avoid disturbing tadpoles, you can cut the flower spike down before it sets seed. However, bear in mind that it can still spread via rhizomes so will need digging out eventually.

Disposing of skunk cabbage roots

All skunk cabbage plant material must be burned or disposed of in a secure composting system. If you want to take it to your local waste facility, it must have a licence issued by Natural England or Natural Resources Wales, or a permit issued by the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA).

Frequently asked questions

Is skunk cabbage useful for anything?

In its native land, skunk cabbage is useful for wildlife. Traditionally, native Americans used skunk cabbage as a treatment for epilepsy, rheumatism, intestinal worms and gynecological problems. Some used it occasionally for eating as long as it was cooked thoroughly first.

Why do they call it skunk cabbage?

Skunk cabbage is pollinated by flesh flies so, to attract them, skunk cabbage emits a smell when in flower that resembles rotting meat.

]]> Why are there mushrooms in my lawn? https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/mushrooms-in-my-lawn/ Fri, 25 Oct 2024 11:51:33 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/mushrooms-in-my-lawn/ Advice on identifying and dealing with lawn mushrooms, in our guide. Mushrooms or toadstools are the fruiting bodies of fungi. Fungi live below ground in the soil but every so often (usually in late summer and autumn) they throw up their fruiting bodies in order to increase their populations. Mushrooms and toadstools produce spores, which act like seeds and are blown around on the wind or transported by animals – if they land in a suitable place they can germinate and grow into new fungal networks.

Mushrooms are a sign of a healthy soil environment, and indeed fungal networks are responsible for helping plants absorb nutrients and can even help plants relay information to each other, such as pest attacks or drought. Fungi is therefore an important part of the garden ecosystem and – where possible – should be left alone. However, if you want a perfect lawn, mushrooms that form ‘fairy rings’ may be an annoyance. Elsewhere in the garden, mushrooms may be an indication of the presence of honey fungus, which often has wider implications for garden plants.

While most mushrooms are harmless, some are toxic, so it's important not to touch, harvest or eat any mushrooms before getting a clear identification from an expert.

Why are mushrooms growing in my garden?

Fungi, including mushrooms, thrive on decaying organic matter. An abundance of mushrooms may therefore be a sign of rotting woody material buried in the ground, such as the roots of a dead shrub or tree, or an indicator of a buildup of dead grass and moss – known as ‘thatch’ - in the lawn itself. It's important to remember that dead wood and other rotting material are a good thing in gardens and fungi is nature's way of breaking it down.

Is it good or bad for mushrooms to grow on my lawn?

The presence of mushrooms usually indicates a diverse and healthy soil environment, so overall fungi in lawns is a good thing. However, if the mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of honey fungus then this may lead to the death of some of your garden plants. In the first instance, getting a positive identification on your mushrooms can help you determine whether you have a problem or not.

Another type of fungi that can appear on a lawn are those that form fairy rings. These produce circles of fungi that can develop up to several metres across, accentuated by dark green, lush grass outside the mushroom or toadstool ring, where the grass is feeding on the nutrients released by the fungi.

Can you eat mushrooms that grow in your lawn?

While the term ‘mushroom’ is widely used to describe fungi that are edible, this is a generally used term rather than a definition of something that can be eaten. Never eat fungi unless it has been clearly identified as safe by a recognised expert. To find out more about mushrooms, look for foraging sessions in your area, to learn about edible plants that can be harvested from the wild.

How to get rid of mushrooms in your lawn

In the first instance where unwanted mushrooms have developed, remove them physically by hand soon after the mushrooms appear, before they mature and spread their spores. With gloves on, pull up larger mushrooms. Use a stiff-bristled garden broom to scatter clusters of smaller ones, ideally on a dry, sunny day when the fungi quickly shrivel to a fraction of their size.

Discourage mushrooms from developing in future by making the lawn environment cleaner, drier, and airier, all of which are less welcoming to fungi. Rake up fallen twigs and leaves in autumn and cut the lawn regularly as short grass dries much faster than if left long. Scarify (rake) to remove the layer of dead grass and moss that builds up on the surface of a lawn.

To remove fairy rings from your lawn, scarify and aerate the area and then oversow with grass seed to fill in bare patches. However, this won't remove the fungi living below the soil surface and you will almost certainly find the fairy rings keep coming back year after year. This is to be expected and ultimately you should learn to live with them.

Are lawn mushrooms poisonous to dogs in the UK?

While many mushrooms are harmless, some are toxic and so the safest approach is the precautionary one – assume that mushrooms are poisonous unless identified otherwise. If you suspect your dog has eaten something poisonous, contact a vet immediately. Symptoms of poisoning include excessive salivation, vomiting, diarrhoea, loss of balance, and seizures.

]]> How to get rid of leatherjackets https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/leatherjackets/ Sun, 29 Sep 2024 14:00:49 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/leatherjackets/ How to identify and deal with leatherjackets, in our problem-solving guide. What are leatherjackets?

Leatherjackets are the grey, legless larvae of crane flies, or daddy-longlegs (Tipula spp.) There are several species that eat the roots of grasses and other plants but many feed on organic matter and algae, and help to return nutrients to the soil. In gardens, some species can occur in large numbers and can damage lawns, causing them to develop yellow and brown patches. Lawns can usually recover from this in time.

How to identify leatherjackets

Found in the soil of lawns, leatherjackets are grey, tubular grubs up to 3cm long, with tough, leathery skin (hence the name 'leatherjacket'). However the first sign of them is not likely to be the grubs themselves but the yellow and brown patches that develop on your lawn as a result of them eating the roots beneath the surface. If leatherjackets are the culprit, when you lift the affected turf you will find leatherjackets in the soil below.

The leatherjacket lifeycle

The leatherjacket lifecycle is annual: after mating in late-summer, female crane flies lay up to 300 eggs directly into the soil or turf. These hatch after a couple of weeks into grubs, which feed on grass and plant roots from autumn through to summer. In a cold winter they tend to hibernate and lawn patches don't appear until summer. However in a mild winter the leatherjackets continue eating and yellow and brown lawn patches can be seen from late winter. After feeding sufficiently, the grubs pupate in the soil and emerge as adult crane flies in late-summer, to mate and start the whole process again. When the adults emerge, the pupal case is often visible, sticking up above the lawn surface.

Why are leatherjackets a problem?

Leatherjackets aren't always a problem in gardens – they are a natural part of the garden ecosystem and many complete their lifecycles without us noticing. However, because some feed on the roots of grasses, they can cause noticeable damage in lawns, especially if present in large numbers. In flower beds or plots, seedlings and small plants can be killed if the stems are damaged, however lawn grass usually recovers.

On top of the damage caused by leatherjackets, crows, magpies, rooks and starlings all feed on them and will look for them by inserting their their beaks into the turf. This leads to unsightly holes in the lawn.

Controlling leatherjackets

Leatherjackets are part of the garden ecosystem and are an important source of food for birds, particularly starlings, so its best to tolerate them if possible. However, if you want to remove them, the easiest thing to do is to soak the lawn and cover it with black plastic (such as old compost bags) or other light-suppressing material. The following morning, when you lift the plastic you should find the grubs on the surface of the lawn. You can then leave these for the birds to find.

Biological control is available in the form of nematodes, which you water onto the turf or soil. The nematodes infect leatherjackets and other soil-dwelling invertebrates with a bacterial disease, which could affect other organisms as well as your target species. Also, nematodes need to be applied when the soil temperature is no lower than 12°C, so are not usually appropriate to use in winter, when the damage often starts to be noticeable.

Frequently asked questions

Once I have got rid of leatherjackets, will they come back?

Yes, it's perfectly possible that female craneflies will lay eggs in your lawn the following year, so you may find you want to control them every year.

Can't I just leave leatherjacket control to nature?

Yes, this is by far the best way to deal with leatherjackets, as many birds, such as starlings, rely on them for a source of food.

Can a lawn recover from leatherjackets?

Yes, in time a lawn will recover from leatherjackets. If a large area is affected you may consider laying new turf, however if the brown and yellow patches are small these should recover quickly without intervention.

]]> What is giant hogweed? https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/giant-hogweed/ Thu, 22 Aug 2024 07:47:51 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/giant-hogweed/ All you need to know about identifying and controlling giant hogweed. What is giant hogweed?

Giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum) is a non-native, invasive weed. Native to southern Russia, it's a member of the Apiaceae family and is closely related to cow parsley, carrots and parsnips. Originally introduced to the UK in the 19th century as an ornamental plant, it has large, umbrella-shaped flower heads and can grow to over 3m in height. However, its sap can cause severe burns if it comes into contact with skin.

Giant hogweed can now be found throughout much of the UK, especially waste ground, roadside verges and river banks, where its seeds are transported by water. It grows in dense clumps and can outcompete native plants.

It's listed on Schedule 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act in England and Wales, and the Government's list of Invasive Non-Native Plant Species of special concern. While it's not an offence to have giant hogweed already growing in your garden, it is an offence to plant or otherwise cause it to grow in the wild. It is also banned from sale in the UK. You should stop giant hogweed from spreading from your garden and avoid accepting gifts of this species.

Is giant hogweed dangerous?

Yes. Giant hogweed has phototoxic sap, which makes skin extremely sensitive to sunlight. If giant hogweed sap gets onto your skin and the skin is then exposed to sunlight, it can burn and blister. These blisters may last for several weeks and may even recur over months or even years.

If you touch giant hogweed and get its sap on your skin, wash your skin immediately, taking care to ensure all sap has been rinsed off. Then, keep the area covered for the next few days to avoid it being exposed to sunlight. You may want to seek medical advice.

It's also important to keep dogs away from giant hogweed, as they are also affected by its sap.

What does giant hogweed look like?

Giant hogweed looks like a much larger version of cow parsley. Biennial, it forms a rosette of lobed leaves in its first year before sending up a flower spike in its second year, and then setting seed and dying.

• Stems are hollow and ridged, green with purple blotches and stiff, white hairs
• Leaves are up to 1.5m wide and 3m long, and are deeply divided, with many fine hairs on the underside. They slightly resemble rhubarb leaves, but have more jagged edges
• Flowers are small, white or tinged with pink, and are borne in upward-facing clusters, known as umbels, in early summer. Umbels can reach a diameter of 60cm
• Seeds are 1cm long, striped, flattened and oval

How to tell giant hogweed apart from similar plants

Giant hogweed looks similar to, and therefore may be confused with, the following plants:

Common hogweed (Heracleum sphondylium) – growing to just 2m, this British native hogweed is much smaller than giant hogweed, and has more rounded, and less jagged leaves. It's not toxic and is a fantastic wildlife plant.

Cow parsley (Anthriscus sylvestris) – cow parsley has a more delicate appearance than giant hogweed, with feathery, almost lacy leaves, and smaller flower heads. It grows to a maximum height of 170cm.

How to get rid of giant hogweed

Chemical – weedkillers such as glyphosate may be used to get rid of giant hogweed, but bear in mind that they could harm other plants growing nearby and could leach into the soil and waterways. What's more, you will still need to wear full protective clothing, dispose of the plants and then continue making applications as any seeds germinate.

Natural – this is the best way to remove giant hogweed. Giant hogweed is biennial, so it forms a basal clump of leaves in its first year and then flowers and sets seed in its second year. Removing it by hand requires full protective clothing to stop any sap from being in contact with the skin. To remove it successfully, dig out the whole plant, ideally in its first year, before it flowers and sets seed. Bear in mind that seeds can survive for several years, so you may need to remove seedlings in future years.

How to dispose of giant hogweed

Giant hogweed can be disposed of in landfill sites, but only those with licences to deal with 'controlled waste'. Instead, burn or compost giant hogweed in your garden. If composting, keep the seeds to one side and burn them anyway, as they may survive the composting process.

Frequently asked questions

Should I report giant hogweed in the UK?

Yes, if you find giant hogweed growing on council-owned land, report it to the council – their website will often have a page dedicated to reporting invasive, non-native species. If you find giant hogweed growing on a railway line, embankment, or station, report it to Network Rail.

Is giant hogweed poisonous to dogs?

Yes, giant hogweed is very poisonous to dogs, and can cause severe skin burns and abrasions, mouth ulcers, vomiting and diarrhoea.

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