BBC Gardeners World Magazinehttps://www.gardenersworld.com2025-11-18T16:52:26.000Zhourly12000-01-01T12:00+00:00How to grow mahoniashttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-mahonia/2025-11-18T16:52:35.000ZMahonias are evergreen shrubs that typically thrive in shade. Their winter blooms provide an invaluable source of pollen and nectar for winter-active bees and other pollinators, when there's little else in flower. These are followed by small blueish fruits, which attract birds. With their evergreen spiny foliage, mahonias look fantastic underplanted with contrasting foliage plants that also thrive in shade, for example, elephant ears (Bergenia), fringe cups (Tellima grandiflora) and epimediums.
Mahonia plants are toxic. Mahonia berries and seeds can also be toxic, especially unripe berries. They should not be eaten, particularly by pregnant women, as they can cause uterine contractions.
Where to grow mahonia
The best place to plant mahonia is in moist but well-drained soil in partial or full shade. They can be grown in full sun provided the soil remains moist. Mahonias are ideal for planting under deciduous trees or in a shady mixed border. They’re also a valuable winter plant for wildlife gardens.
Smaller varieties, such as Mahonia eurybracteata subsp. ganpinensis ‘Soft Caress’, can be grown in large containers, though they may eventually need to be planted out in the garden. Mahonias (especially larger varieties) grow best in sheltered locations where cold winds won’t scorch the foliage.
When to plant mahonia
The best time to plant mahonia is in spring or autumn when the soil is moist and the weather is mild, but not too warm. Avoid planting mahonia when the ground is waterlogged or frozen.
How to plant mahonia
Dig a generous hole, adding well-rotted compost and a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi. Plant the mahonia, making sure the rootball sits just below the surface of the soil, and firm in well. Water thoroughly.
When planting mahonia in containers, use a loam-based compost, such as peat-free John Innes No.3. Place the container in a sheltered spot in full or partial shade.
How to care for mahonia
Mahonias shouldn’t need watering once they are well established, provided the ground remains moist. Water established plants only if the soil dries out in prolonged hot periods. Apply a mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring and autumn, leaving a space around the stem, to help conserve moisture. Plants in the ground shouldn’t need regular feeding. But if plants look like they’re struggling, add a balanced fertiliser in spring. Water plants in containers regularly. Feed with a slow-release fertiliser and apply a balanced liquid feed during the growing season.
Mahonias are hardy and almost all varieties should tolerate winter temperatures in the UK. In very cold winters, plants in containers would benefit from wrapping the pot with hessian or fleece to protect both the roots and the container.
How to prune mahonia
Prune ground-cover mahonias every other year in spring after flowering to encourage bushy growth and remove unwanted suckers. Taller mahonias require little pruning, but should have unwanted suckers removed. Mahonias can be renovation pruned if necessary by cutting back old stems (no more than half of the plant) to strong growth low down. They may take a while to regrow, but should develop healthy, thicker growth in time. Prune the rest of the stems back by a third.
How to propagate mahonia
Mahonia can be successfully propagated by layering or stem cuttings in June and July.
Here, Carol Klein shows you how to take stem cuttings from an evergreen mahonia, using a special technique to cope with its large leaves:
View Green Video on the source website
Pests and diseases
Mahonia is generally pest-free, but look out for rusts and powdery mildew in dry weather.
Advice on buying mahonia
- Check that the mahonia variety you've chosen will grow to the right size for your space
- Make sure your soil retains enough moisture to keep a mahonia healthy
- Always check plants for pests and disease before you buy or as soon as you unpack your plants for online orders
Where to buy mahonia online
Mahonia varieties to grow
Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’ has typical bright yellow, fragrant flowers from late autumn to late winter. It looks particularly good at the back of a shady border. Height x Spread: 4m x 4m
Mahonia aquifolium is also known as the Oregon grape, indicating its North American origins. 'Apollo' is a compact cultivar that grows in a neat, spreading dome. The glossy, dark green leaves flush purple in winter with the characteristic yellow flowers appearing in early spring, followed by blue-black berries. H x S: 1m x 1.5m
Mahonia repens is a creeping variety with a low-growing habit, and makes great groundcover in shady areas. The attractive foliage turns purplish in winter and bright yellow, fragrant flowers appear in spring. H x S: 0.5m x 1m
Mahonia x media ‘Charity’ has an upright habit and long leaves. Stalks of bright yellow, fragrant flowers are produced at the ends of branches from late autumn to late winter. Mahonia ‘Charity’ is ideal for a shady spot at the back of a border. H x S: 4m x 4m
Mahonia eurybracteata subsp. ganpinensis 'Soft Caress' is a variety with finely divided soft evergreen, bamboo-like foliage. Mahonia ‘Soft Caress’ looks completely different to other mahonias and the yellow flowers appear in late summer and autumn. H x S: 1m x 1m
Mahonia japonica bears lemon-yellow flowers from late autumn to early spring with a sweet lily-of-the-valley fragrance. Suitable for a variety of planting positions, including slopes and banks. H x S: 1.5m x 2.5
Find out more about different mahonia varieties in this video clip with Carol Klein, from BBC Gardeners' World:
View Green Video on the source website
Frequently asked questions
How tall do mahonias grow?
Mahonias vary greatly in height depending on the variety. Some, like Mahonia ‘Charity’, can reach 5m, whereas lower growing varieties, such as Mahonia repens, might only reach 30cm.
Does mahonia spread?
Some mahonia varieties spread along the ground, producing suckers around the base. But they can be kept in check by pruning and digging out unwanted suckers. Some types of mahonia are considered invasive species in the United States, but the varieties grown in the UK are not considered invasive here.
]]>How to grow grape hyacinth (Muscari)https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-muscari/2025-08-07T13:09:47.000ZGrape hyacinths (Muscari) are small spring bulbs with bright blue flowers that look like a cross between a bunch of grapes and miniature hyacinths. They look good at the front of a border, naturalised in grass or in shady places such as at the edge of a woodland or under deciduous shrubs. Grape hyacinths are perennial plants that come back every year and have a tendency to self-seed, so you might find them invasive – if you'd rather keep them contained, plant them in containers.
Grape hyacinths attract a wide range of pollinators, including bees, providing them with an early source of pollen and nectar after hibernation.
Where to grow grape hyacinths
For best results grow grape hyacinths in moist but well-drained soil, in sun or shade. They work well when naturalised in a lawn but also in container displays, such as a window box.
When to plant grape hyacinths
Plant grape hyacinth bulbs in autumn, as you would any spring-flowering bulb, like daffodils or alliums. If buying pots of flowering grape hyacinths in spring, you can plant these straight away.
How to plant grape hyacinths
Plant grape hyacinth bulbs in small clusters. Dig a small trench 10cm deep and toss in a handful of the tiny bulbs. The same principles apply when planting in a pot, but you can get away with planting the bulbs closer together as the display won't be permanent.
How to care for grape hyacinths
Grape hyacinths don’t need VIP treatment and will spread quite happily once established. If you want to prevent seeds from developing, cut back flowers as soon as they have gone over. There's no need to water or feed the bulbs.
Lift and divide established clumps to help them spread around the garden or control their spread – this can also rejuvenate old bulbs and increase flowering potential.
How to propagate grape hyacinths
Propagate grape hyacinths by division when plants are dormant in summer. Dig up a congested clump and split apart into smaller clusters and replant. You can also save seed and sow this in spring, but it's much quicker and effective to propagate by division.
Pests and diseases
Grape hyacinths are not affected by any pest and diseases.
Advice on buying grape hyacinths
- You can buy pots of flowering grape hyacinths in spring but it's cheaper to buy dry bulbs in autumn
- Grape hyacinths are widely available at garden centres but you'll find a greater choice online
Where to buy grape hyacinths
Grape hyacinth varieties to grow
Muscari azureum – a Turkish variety with typical flowers in a soft sky blue. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it its prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM). Height x Spread: 5cm x 10cm
Muscari pallens – this rarely found variety has soft, translucent pale blue and white flowers. H x S: 5cm x 10cm
Muscari armeniacum – a vigorous species variety, growing to 20cm in height, with grass-like leaves and stems bearing spikes of white-tipped, deep violet-blue, egg-shaped flowers in spring. H x S: 20cm x 8cm
Muscari armeniacum 'Blue Spike' – has larger, double-flowered heads and looks good naturalised in grass with other spring bulbs or in containers. H x S: 20cm x 8cm
Frequently asked questions
What do you do with grape hyacinths after they flower?
There's no need to do anything with grape hyacinths after they flower. They are spring bulbs so will die down naturally and then regrow the following spring. If you want to stop seeds from developing, remove the flowers as soon as they go over.
How toxic is grape hyacinth?
Grape hyacinth is not toxic to animals, pets or wildlife.
]]>How to grow buddleia (butterfly bush)https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-buddlejas/2025-08-03T15:19:21.000ZBuddleia is an easy and fast-growing shrub, that will suit any garden where there is sun and well-drained soil. There are larger and smaller varieties, good for borders and pots. Commonly known as the butterfly bush, the flower heads of the buddleia plant are full of nectar and are a magnet for many insects.
Flowers come in a wide range of colours including purple, blue, pink and white and even yellow, and appear continuously for around four to six weeks in late summer. BuddleIa will grow in almost any location – it's often seen growing out of brickwork and will happily colonise wasteland. It's classed as an invasive plant in the UK, but isn't currently on the Schedule 9 list of invasive non-native plant species. It offers plentiful nectar for pollinating insects and provides a food source for some species of insect larvae, though it can shade out other larval food plants.
Where to grow buddleia
The sunniest spot in your garden is the best place to plant a buddleia for nectar-rich flowers and to attract butterflies. You should also avoid windy spots, as strong summer gales could result in branches breaking off or the roots becoming exposed. When you purchase your buddleia, check its full-grown size and plant it with enough space to grow.
When to plant buddleia
Ideally, plant buddleia in late spring once the soil has warmed. Hardy species can be planted at any time of year, provided the ground isn't waterlogged or frozen, but summer planting requires lots of watering, whereas planting in spring enables plants to get established before drier, hotter weather arrives.
How to plant buddleia
Plant buddleia in any free-draining soil in sheltered sunny spot. If you have heavy clay soil, add a handful of grit to your planting hole for added drainage.
How to care for buddleia
Water plants for the first year or two in dry periods, until they’re well established and add a 5cm layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, annually to retain moisture in the soil. Buddleia in fertile soil don’t require feeding, but in poor soil, a high-potash feed in spring will boost the flowering potential of your plant. Buddleia in containers need to be fed annually with slow-release fertiliser or liquid feed through the growing season.
Hardy buddleias planted in the ground don’t need any special care over winter. Plants in pots may suffer when the weather is freezing, so wrap containers in fleece or move them to a frost-free area. More tender buddleias like Buddleja officinalis need protection over winter.
The spread of buddleia can be controlled by deadheading plants before seeds develop, but if you don’t want to spend time deadheading, you might choose not to plant buddleia in your garden and instead opt for other species for pollinating insects. Watch Monty Don demonstrate how to deadhead buddleia in this clip from BBC Gardeners' World:
View Green Video on the source website
How to prune buddleia
If left to their own devices, buddleias can grow huge. They flower on new season’s growth, so give plants a hard prune in April or May, to cut out all the dead wood and maintain a good shape. This also encourages later flowering, which is good for butterflies such as the small tortoiseshell. Most buddleias don’t require pruning in autumn, but can be cut back lightly if necessary and dead flowerheads should be removed.
Watch Monty Don demonstrate how to prune a buddleia, in this BBC Gardeners' World clip:
View Green Video on the source website
How to propagate buddleia
Many varieties of buddleIa will self-seed freely, but may not stay true to type. You can also propagate from semi-ripe buddleia cuttings in summer and hardwood cuttings in autumn.
Pests and diseases
Buddleias are generally free from pests and diseases. However, recent reports of aphid damage are currently being investigated by RHS scientists. Possible symptoms include curled leaves, pale or yellow patches and aphids on the underside of leaves. If you think your buddleia has aphids, you can submit your findings to the RHS study.
Buddleia varieties to try
Buddleja davidii 'Nanho Blue' – a small variety, with lilac-blue flowers and narrow, green-grey leaves. It’s perfect for growing at the front of a border, or in containers. Height x Spread: 1.5m x 1.5m
Buddleja davidii ‘Santana’ – with variegated leaves and wine-red flowers from July to September. H x S: 4m x 4m
Buddleja × weyriana 'Sungold' – unusual Buddleja with round clusters of golden yellow flowers with a strong fragrance. H x S: 4m x 3m
Buddleja davidii 'Ile de France' – deep purple flowers appear from July to September. H x S: 3.5m x 3.5m
Buddleja davidii ‘Buzz Sky Blue’ – a compact and easy to grow dwarf buddleia with deep-blue flowers. Suitable for small gardens and containers. H x S: 1.2m x 1.2m
Buddleja alternifolia – different to the more familiar Buddleja davidii, the branches are slender and arching, bearing dense clusters of soft lilac-purple or pink fragrant flowers. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 4m x 4m
Frequently asked questions
Is buddleia a tree or a bush?
Buddleia is not a tree, it is technically a shrub but is commonly known as the butterfly bush.
Are buddleia a problem?
Buddleia are invasive plants, but if pruned and maintained in the garden they should not cause a problem. Buddleia can make a stunning addition to your garden, as well as producing flowers full of nectar for pollinating insects.
Can I move a buddleia?
Buddleia are tough shrubs and should survive being transplanted. The best time to move a buddleia is in March or around mid-autumn when the foliage has died. Cut the buddleia back and water well the day before transplanting. Then dig it up, move to a well-prepared planting hole and water thoroughly.
How fast does buddleia grow?
Buddleia is a fast-growing shrub that can put on a couple of metres of growth or more in a year, but it can be pruned back to a low framework of stems in early spring. Grown from seed, it is even possible that buddleia may produce flowers in the first year.
]]>How to grow weigelahttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-weigela/2025-06-13T09:13:39.000ZWeigelas make the perfect garden shrub. They're hardy, low-maintenance, easy to grow and work well in a variety of situations, including mixed borders. Weigela is a deciduous shrub, with leaves that range from dark green to light green, golden as well as variegated shades. The funnel-shaped flowers are a hit with bumblebees, and range in colour from deep pink to yellow, appearing in early summer.
Where to grow weigela
Weigela is an easy-to-grow shrub that suits most growing conditions and most types of soil. Plant it in moist but well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade. It won't flower well in full shade or in soils that are waterlogged.
When to plant weigela
The best time to plant weigela is in autumn or spring, when the soil is warm and not too dry. Avoid planting at any time when the soil is either frozen or waterlogged. Potted shrubs can be planted at other times of year, but it may take longer for the plant to establish and will require more watering.
How to plant weigela
Water your shrub before planting. Dig a hole that's twice the depth of the rootball and fork in some well-rotted garden compost, or bagged compost. Remove the shrub from its pot and tease out the roots if they are in a tightly packed spiral. Plant your shrub at the same depth it was in its pot, with the top of the rootball level with the surrounding soil. Backfill around the shrub with the soil you removed from the hole and firm in well. Water again after planting and regularly afterwards until it's established.
Some weigela are also suitable for growing in containers. Choose a compact or dwarf variety such as 'All Summer Monet', which grows to 80cm tall, or 'Picobella Rosa', which reaches only 40cm. Choose a large container, at least 45cm diameter, as this will stop it drying out as quickly, and fill with a soil-based, peat-free compost. Plant with the top of the rootball level with the surrounding compost and firm in. Water regularly as containers can dry out quickly.
How to care for weigela
Weigela are low-maintenance shrubs that are easy to look after. The main tasks to keep on top of are watering, feeding and mulching.
Watering – water newly planted shrubs regularly until they're established, especially when the weather is hot and dry. For weigela planted in containers, check frequently during hot weather to make sure the compost hasn't dried out.
Feeding – it's not vital to feed shrubs that are growing in the border, but to give them a boost, add a general fertiliser once a year in spring. For shrubs growing in containers, feed with a general purpose plant food between spring and later summer, following the instructions as to how much and how often to use it.
Mulching – add a thick layer of mulch around weigela in autumn to help keep moisture in the soil and to suppress weeds.
Winter care – weigela are hardy and don't need any special protection over winter.
How to prune weigela
The best time to prune weigela is after it has finished flowering, from June to July. Remove a few of the oldest stems each year. Use a pruning saw or loppers to cut out the oldest, thickest branches, cutting as close to the base as possible. Reduce the longest, new stems by about half, cutting just above a new shoot. This will help to thin out the shrub and let more air circulate around the centre. Remove any new shoots that are overcrowded or facing inwards to help open up the centre of the shrub.
Established weigelas also respond well to hard pruning if they have outgrown their spot – you can cut back stems to ground level to encourage new growth. You can also prune during the dormant season. See more in our Frequently asked questions at the bottom of this feature.
How to propagate weigela
The best method of propagating weigela is by taking softwood cuttings. You can do this throughout the growing season.
Cut a non-flowering shoot around 10cm long from the shrub, cutting just below a leaf joint. Put it in a plastic bag so it doesn't dry out, if you aren't planting it immediately. Remove the lower leaves and plant it 3-4cm deep in a small pot of cuttings compost. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and place it somewhere warm until the cutting has rooted. This can take two to four weeks.
Pests and diseases
Weigela are generally free from pests and plants diseases but can be prone to the following:
Leaf and bud eelworms affecting the buds and leaves, causing brown and yellow foliage. Remove any infected leaves and buds and burn. There are resistant varieties of weigela available.
Capsid bug – these sap-feeding pests cause brown patches and small holes on leaves. Keep the area under shrubs clear of leaves and foliage that the bugs can hide in.
Brown scale – scale insects also feed on sap and are found on stems and leaves. Try removing with your fingernail or using insecticidal soap.
Honey fungus – this fungus can kill the roots of plants. You may notice dieback, pale foliage, a lack of flowers or honey coloured mushrooms on the bark of your plant. There are no treatments, so it's best to dig up and destroy the shrub.
Advice on buying weigela
- Choose your weigela carefully – they can grow to 2.5m so make sure you have enough space for it
- Check your weigela for signs of stress or damage, including crossing stems or pruning cuts, which indicate a problem which has been removed
- Weigela are available from garden centres, but you'll find greater choice at specialist shrub nurseries
Where to buy weigela
Weigela varieties to grow
*Weigela '*Florida Variegata' – this is one of the best variegated cultivars. It’s smaller and more compact, with cream and green leaves, and pink flowers. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it its prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).
- Buy Weigela 'Florida Variegata' from Crocus
Weigela ‘Bristol Ruby’ – has mid-green leaves, which are complemented by deep red, funnel-shaped flowers in summer.
- Buy Weigela 'Bristol Ruby' from Thompson & Morgan
Weigela middendorffiana – this variety has bright green leaves with pale yellow flowers, often with contrasting markings in the centre of the bell-shaped flowers.
- Buy Weigela middendorffiana from Thompson & Morgan
Weigela 'Looymansii Aurea' – this is a cultivar with golden-yellow leaves and pink flowers, that appear paler inside.
- Buy Weigela ‘Looymansii Aurea’ from Golden Hill Nurseries
Weigela ‘Naomi Campbell’ = 'Bokrashine' (PBR) – a compact, bushy, rounded shrub growing to about 1m. The dark green foliage is tinged with bronzy-purple and flowers are a dark pinkish-red.
- Buy Weigela ‘Naomi Campbell’ from Thompson & Morgan
Weigela middendorffiana 'Mango' – a compact cultivar, with a rounded shape, growing to around 1m. The flowers are creamy-yellow with orangey pink.
- Buy Weigela middendorffiana 'Mango' from Crocus
Frequently asked questions
How long do weigela bloom for?
Weigela flower for around two months, in early summer. Most varieties begin flowering in May.
How do you rejuvenate old weigela?
To rejuvenate an old weigela, you can hard prune it or renovate it over several years. To hard prune weigela, cut all the branches down to a framework that is 10-20cm above the ground between autumn and spring. In spring, mulch around the shrub. As the shrub regrows, prune out any thin, weak stems. For a less drastic approach, prune use a pruning saw to cut out half of the oldest stems, cutting them down to the base. Tidy up some of the newer shoots, or any that are overcrowded or crossing, cutting these back by half just above a sideshoot or bud. Shorten any long shoots that don't have any sideshoots, cutting back by a third. Take out a third of shoots each year, cutting back to the base.
]]>10 plants for easy summer flowershttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/10-plants-for-easy-summer-flowers/2025-04-16T16:31:07.000ZIf you want more flowers in your garden, you need plants that are guaranteed to perform. But with so many plants to choose from, how do you know which plants are easiest to grow and which will give you the most flowers?
We’ve chosen 10 plants that are easy to grow and will flower right through summer and into autumn – some will even give you year-round colour and interest. All the plants are perennial, so you can look forward to flowers for many summers. There are colours and shapes to suit every taste and every style of garden, and they’re all great for attracting bees and other pollinating insects to your garden.
More plant inspiration
- Repeat-flowering perennials
- Best perennials
- Best ground cover plants
- Best summer shade plants
- Perennial plants for pots
Penstemon
If you want to add some instant colour to your flowerbeds from June until the first frosts, penstemons are a great choice. Most varieties flower for months and are equally at home in the middle of a border or growing in a pot. The tubular flowers look like small foxgloves; they come in a range of colours and are popular with bees. Grow in full sun or partial shade. Penstemons are short-lived perennials that can suffer in cold, wet winters. Take penstemon cuttings in summer to make new plants, to replace any you lose over winter.
Height: 60-90cm Spread: 50cm
Flowers: June-October
- How to grow penstemons
- How to take penstemon cuttings
- Best penstemons to grow
Lavender
Lavender is a fantastic all-rounder – it can be grown in pots or in the ground, it’s evergreen, with wonderfully fragrant leaves, fantastic for pollinators and suits different garden styles, from cottage gardens to contemporary schemes. English lavender and most hybrid types are hardy and can be left in the garden all year. French lavender is only frost hardy, so is best kept in containers and protected over winter. Grow lavender in full sun in well-drained soil. Cut back after flowering to prevent plants from becoming leggy and straggly.
Height: 50-80cm Spread: 60-90cm
Flowers: June-September
- How to grow lavender
- How to summer prune lavender
- Best lavenders to grow
Salvia
Salvias really earn their keep in the garden. The great range of forms and colours, from electric blue to deep purple, crimson to yellow, makes them indispensable garden plants. The nectar-rich flowers are magnets for bumblebees and butterflies. There’s a great variety to choose from, including tender bedding salvias and hardy perennials that come back year after year. They all thrive in full sun, and most flower from mid-summer to autumn. Add gravel to the planting hole to aid drainage if you have heavy soil.
Height: 40cm-1.5m Spread: 30-50cm
Flowers: June-November
- How to grow salvias
- 20 spectacular salvias to grow
- What to grow with salvias
Heuchera
When looking for plants for shade, you can’t go wrong with heucheras. Their leaves come in an array of vibrant colours from orange to purple, black to lime green, giving you almost year-round colour. In summer, spikes of tiny flowers, often in contrasting shades to the leaves, add to their appeal. Great in pots or as a shade-tolerant groundcover plant for the front of a border.
Height: 25cm Spread: 35cm
Flowers: June-August
- How to grow heucheras
- 12 heucheras and heucherellas
Helenium
If you want vibrant summer flowers that will bloom into autumn, the large, daisy-like flowers of heleniums are guaranteed to please. With blooms in hot yellows, orange and red, they look fantastic planted in drifts through a mixed border and can also be grown in pots. They combine well with ornamental grasses and other daisy flowers such as echinaceas and rudbeckias, and they are great for bees. Heleniums also make good cut flowers.
Height: 90cm Spread: 60cm
Flowers: July-September
- How to grow heleniums
- How to plant out heleniums
Erysimum ‘Bowles’s Mauve’
This is a beautiful, floriferous, woody-stemmed wallflower, bearing masses of purple flowers on tall spires, for months on end. In mild areas, it can flower virtually all year round. Grow Erysimum ‘Bowles’s’ Mauve’ in sun or partial shade. It’s a short-lived perennial but is easily replaced with young plants made by taking cuttings.
Height: 45cm Spread: 50cm
Flowers: March-November
- How to grow wallflowers
Hardy geranium
Cranesbills, or hardy geraniums, are easy to grow; they thrive in shade and flower for months – many until the first frosts. They have saucer-shaped flowers in shades of pink, purple, white or blue. Hardy geraniums are fantastic for pollinators such as bees and hoverflies. Grow in sun or shade. Cut back after flowering to encourage a second flush of blooms.
Height: 20-50cm Spread: 30cm-1.2m
Flowers: April-September
- How to grow hardy geraniums
- 10 hardy geraniums to grow
- Hardy geraniums for shade
Hebe
Hebes, or shrubby Veronicas, are low-maintenance, evergreen shrubs. They are excellent in shrub borders and used as ground cover or low-growing hedging – they make a great alternative to box plants. Pollinators love the spikes of small flowers that are produced in early summer. Varieties such as Hebe ‘Frozen Flame’ have leaves that turn purple from summer to winter, adding extra colour to your borders. Grow in full sun to partial shade.
Height: 50-1m Spread: 50-1m
Flowers: May-September
- How to take hebe cuttings
Gaura
Gaura are pretty, deciduous perennials which look great in a cottage garden or prairie border. They have small starry pink or white flowers, appearing from early summer right through to autumn. Their delicate stems are particularly useful for linking together other plants in a flowerbed, or they can be grown in containers. They tolerate partial shade.
Height: 50-90cm Spread: 50-60cm
Flowers: May-November
- How to grow gaura
Verbascum
Verbascums are stately perennials that are ideal for adding height and structure to planting schemes. Their elegant spires of summer flowers, in shades of pink, white, yellow, orange or even blue, look equally at home in a cottage garden or a manicured border. Grow in sun or partial shade. They are short-lived perennials, so it’s well worth propagating verbascums to get new plants for free.
Height: 70cm-1.5m Spread: 30-60cm
Flowers: June-September
- How to grow verbascums
- How to propagate verbascums
]]>How to grow hebeshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-hebes/2024-05-07T09:41:58.000ZHebes are popular evergreen shrubs, mostly native to New Zealand although some are indigenous to Australia and South America. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and are suitable for growing in a wide range of sites and planting schemes. Hebes are excellent in shrub borders, used as ground cover or low-growing hedging, and are relatively low-maintenance.
Hebes flower over a long period – all year round in mild regions – with flower colours including pink, blue and white. They can be an important late-year source of nectar and pollen for bumblebees. Leaf colour varies too, from dark green to pink and variegated. Less-hardy hebes can be grown in cool glasshouses or alpine houses.
How to grow hebe plants
Most hebes thrive in moist but free-draining soil, in full sun to partial shade, ideally in a sheltered spot protected from winds. They don't need rich soils and will tolerate drought.
Deadhead spent blooms to improve the look of your hebe and keep it flowering for longer. Prune back in late summer to encourage strong new growth and a good overall shape.
Jump to Best hebes to grow
More on growing hebes:
- How to take hebe cuttings
- Osteospermum and hebe pot display
- Nectar and pollen throughout the year
Find out more about growing and caring for hebes below.
Where to grow hebes
Hebes are native to scrubland and, as such, are tough plants, however, they do need protection from cold winter winds. Some hebes are hardier than others – as a general rule, large-leaved varieties are more tender than small-leaved ones. They're tolerant of salt and can therefore be grown in coastal situations.
Choose a sheltered spot for your hebe, such as in front of a south- or west-facing wall. Hebes are tolerant of poor soils so will grow virtually anywhere. Larger cultivars can be grown at the back of a border while smaller varieties can be grown towards the front or in pots.
Hebes work well with a range of other plants, including catmint and Japanese anemones (pictured, above), along with cranesbill geraniums, penstemons and other herbaceous perennials.
How to plant hebes
Plant your hebe in late spring so it can establish during the summer months. Dig a planting hole slightly wider than the pot it's growing in. As hebes do best in poor soil, there's no need to add organic matter, so simply place the rootball in the hole, ensuring it's at the same depth it was growing in the pot.
Replace the soil around the rootball and firm around the plant gently. Water well. Repeat the process for planting in pots.
Pruning hebes
Hebes require very little care. Avoid feeding them as this can make them grow too quickly and develop floppy leaves.
Annual pruning will extend the life of your hebe. Cut back back dead flowers and up to a third of foliage in late summer, after flowering, to encourage strong new growth and a good bushy shape. Hard pruning (pictured, above) can rejuvenate an old hebe plant and give it an extra lease of life.
How to propagate hebes
Hebes can be short-lived, so take softwood cuttings in summer to replace dead plants. Simply remove the shoots of non-flowering stems, remove leaves from the lower portion of the stem and push into a pot of moist, gritty, peat-free compost.
Cover with a clear plastic bag or place in a propagator with a lid to maintain moisture. Remove the cover when the cuttings have started to show signs of growth. Pot up your cuttings the following spring.
Growing hebes: problem-solving
Hebes are generally trouble free, but some of the less-hardy varieties can suffer in exposed situations. Take care when choosing your hebe to make sure you can provide it with the conditions it needs; for example, there's no point buying a tender hebe if you intend to grow it in an exposed spot.
Advice for buying hebes
Here’s our guide to buying the right hebe for your garden, including where to buy hebes.
- Hebes come in a range of sizes. Check that the height and spread of your hebe is suited to your requirements. If you're planting a hebe in a pot, buy a compact variety. It's also worth checking how hardy the hebe is – some hebes are more frost tender than others, so need extra care in winter
- Hebes are known for their beautiful flowers but some have variegated foliage, too. Make sure the colour of the foliage doesn't clash with any other colours in your planting scheme
- Check your hebe over before planting, making sure that it's not leggy, the foliage is healthy and there are no visible signs of pests, both on the leaves and in the rootball
Where to buy hebes online
Best hebes to grow
Browse our pick of the best hebes to grow:
Hebe 'Celebration'
A half-hardy hebe, Hebe 'Celebration' forms a tight mound of variegated foliage, from which clusters of purple-pink flowers appear in late spring.
Hebe 'Frozen Flame'
Hebe 'Frozen Flame' has greyish-green leaves with a white edge that turn a pinkish-purple in winter. In summer, blue flowers are borne in bright clusters.
Hebe 'Green Globe'
Hebe 'Green Globe' is a compact shrub with a round habit and small, closely packed branches.
Frequently asked questions
How do I remove a large hebe? Large, overgrown hebes can be rejuvenated by hard pruning but they don't always grow back, so you may need to dig them out instead. The easiest way to do this is to cut back all growth to around a metre so you can use the remaining stems as a lever to work the rootball free. Dig around the rootball to approximately the depth of your spade, and use loppers or a pruning saw to cut through tough roots as you find them. Then, holding onto the remaining top growth, gently rock the rootball back and forth to dislodge it. Cut any more roots that become exposed during this process. Eventually, the rootball should be free and you will be able to lift it out of the ground. Any remaining roots left in the soil can be gently worked out again, cutting any stubborn bits free as you need to. Help! My hebe is turning brown Hebes can become drought-stressed in dry summers, resulting in browning leaves or 'dead' patches. As soon as you notice browning hebes, give them a good drink of water. Continue to water them twice a week to reduce any stress and further browning. The brown patches can be cut out and new growth will eventually replace it. Or you can simply leave the brown areas and wait for new leaves to grow in the place of old, dead ones. What's the best thing to do with a frost-damaged hebe? Hebes are moderately hardy in the UK, but can become damaged by frost during particularly cold snaps. This frost damage looks unsightly but new growth should quickly follow, in spring. After any further risk of frost has passed, prune out damaged growth, cutting back to a sideshoot or bud. Top-dress with a good-quality mulch like leaf mould or homemade compost to encourage healthy growth. If conditions are dry, give the hebe a good drink of water once a week.
]]>Alan Titchmarsh's tips on creating a wildlife-friendly gardenhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/premium/tips-for-a-wildlife-friendly-garden/2024-01-28T15:26:14.000ZA garden is as much about wildlife as it is about plants. Gardening and nature conservation are not mutually exclusive, provided the plants that are grown and the way in which the garden is managed take into account the needs of animals, birds and insects as well as the plants themselves.
It is far more satisfying - and responsible - to try and garden with nature rather than against it. In a few years' time the range of pesticides and chemicals available to the home gardener will have shrunk to almost nothing due to health and safety concerns. We might as well try and rub along and enjoy the wildlife in our gardens rather than exclude it.
It doesn't matter whether your garden is in a town or in the country. Wildlife are opportunists - they will take advantage of situations that suit them. Remember that all wildlife is important - not just the cuddly kind - and you can't be selective about what turns up. If we all looked after our own tiny patch, then it - joined with all the other tiny patches - would go towards a massive patchwork quilt of wildlife-friendly gardens.
Having a garden that plays host to wildlife does not mean that is has to look like a weed-ridden wilderness. Here are my tips for a beautiful and wildlife-friendly garden.
Use non-chemical slug deterrents
Stiff copper collars around hostas are effective at getting them through the ground in spring without being eaten by slugs. Discover other ways of stopping slugs from eating young plants, including beer traps and bran.
Grow single flowers
Grow single flowers that are rich in nectar and pollen, rather than doubles, whose reproductive parts have been replaced by petals. This will make sure that bees and butterflies the best possible chance of survival. Discover 10 single-flowered dahlias.
Plant a pot of pollen
Planting for pollinators can be done on the smallest scale and will give bees and butterflies a chance to thrive. A pot of pollen and nectar-rich plants, perfect for pollinators, perfect for a tiny plot, patio, balcony or doorstep. Try our nectar-rich container display.
Stop using pesticides
Stop using pesticides, which can harm beneficial insects. Start allowing natural predators to build up - hedgehogs, for example, will eat slugs, while birds and even wasps will eat caterpillars and greenfly. It takes time, so be patient.
Attract birds
Put up nest boxes and feed birds all year round with 'clean' bird food (the sort that has no husks). Peanuts are no good for nestlings. And ensure a constant supply of water. Find out how to attract birds to your garden.
Let birds control pests
Let birds control pests, be it chafer grubs and leatherjackets in the lawn or grubs on the vegetable patch. A light forking over of the soil will reveal more and the birds will be in for the feast.
Sow a patch of wild flowers
Sow a patch of wild flowers, however small, in a sunny spot. It will provide sources of food for birds and insects and long grass where butterflies can lay their eggs. Find out how to create a mini wildflower meadow.
Make a wildlife pond
Make a wildlife pond with gently sloping edges, which will play host to frogs, toads and newts, as well as offering liquid refreshment to birds and hedgehogs. Watch our No Fuss video guide to creating a wildlife pond.
Make a log pile
Dead wood can support a surprisingly wide range of wild life. Pile logs in a shady corner to make a sanctuary for insects or try something more adventurous - discover three ways to create a dead wood habitat.
Don't be too tidy
Leaves at the base of a hedge, for example, are a great spot for hibernating hedgehogs and insects.
Alan's favourite plants for wildlife
- Buddleja (pictured) - not for nothing is this shrub known as the butterfly bush. Its wand-like blooms attract small tortoiseshell and peacock butterflies.
- Lavender - awash with bees and butterflies in summer and fragrant when brushed past. A stalwart in a sunny, well-drained spot or in a pot.
- Flag iris - the yellow flag in a garden pond is a 'great escape' for dragonfly larvae, which climb up its leaves and stems as they emerge and dry themselves in the sun.
- Crab apple - The fruits when they fall will be devoured by birds and the blossom is loved by bees. A great multi-purpose tree for any garden.
- Hawthorn - a British native that makes a great nesting site for birds and berries for food in autumn, too. A brilliant garden hedge with lovely blossom.
]]>How to grow echiumshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-echicums/2023-11-22T15:40:53.000ZThis article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
Echiums are related to borage and share similar characteristics, such as hairy stems and leaves, and nectar-rich flowers which are loved by pollinating insects. There are around 40 species of echium that grow across Europe and Asia. These range from the common Echium vulgare, also known as viper’s bugloss (the seed looks a little like a snake’s head) to the gigantic Echium pininana or tree echium, which can grow to around 5m. The taller varieties originate from the Canary Islands, but can grow in milder, drier parts of the UK as long as the soil is free-draining and they receive plenty of sunlight. In the right conditions echiums will self-seed prolifically, colonising your garden if allowed to. Be careful when handling them as the sap can irritate the skin and all parts of an echium plant are toxic if eaten.
How to grow echiums
Echiums can be annual, biennial, perennial or semi-evergreen. For best results, grow them in full sun in free-draining soil. Some varieties do well in containers. Collect the seed of annual and biennial echiums in autumn to resow the following spring to summer. Alternatively, let them self-seed around your garden - often the plants grow best this way.
Where to grow echiums
Biennial and perennial echiums grown outdoors need free-draining soil to enable them survive the cold, wet conditions of winter. They thrive in full sun but will tolerate shadier situations – although they might become misshapen in such situations, growing in the direction of the light. Some varieties grow well in large containers, which may be the best option for the more tender perennial varieties, as they will need to be overwintered indoors.
How to plant echiums
Echiums can be grown from seed. Sow hardier annual varieties such as Echium 'Blue Bedder' direct in mid-spring for flowering the same year, or in late summer for flowering the following year. Sow biennial types such as Echium vulgare and Echium pininana in seed trays or small pots from late spring to early summer, lightly covering the seeds with vermiculite. Keep moist but do not overwater. Transplant seedlings when they are large enough to handle, planting them into their final growing positions in their first year to avoid root damage.
Alternatively sow direct in a few different locations - often this will yield the best results. As echiums can be a little picky about where they want to grow, this way you are more likely to experience success with at least some of the seeds.
Echiums can grow well in a variety of locations, including coastal and gravel gardens, banks and slopes, cottage gardens and wildflower meadows.
How to care for echiums
Echiums are pretty robust plants, given the right growing conditions, for example, in full sun and in free-draining, moderately fertile soil. However, the more tender varieties may need protection during cold winter weather, either in a cold greenhouse or a conservatory if growing in pots. If the plants are growing in borders, you can use fleece to loosely cover the crown of the plant.
Growing echiums from seed and taking cuttings
Annual and biennial echiums will self-seed readily. Alternatively, you can collect ripe seed and sow this yourself. Keep them in a dry envelope over winter and sow them the following spring to summer.
You can take cuttings from shrubbier species such as Echium fastuosum, either as softwood cuttings in May to June or as semi-ripe cuttings from August to September.
Pests and diseases
Echiums are rarely troubled by pests and diseases, although young plants can be damaged by slugs and snails, despite their hairy stems and foliage. If growing tender echiums in the greenhouse or conservatory, they may be affected by red spider mites and whitefly. Varieties grown in pots could be susceptible to vine weevil.
Advice on buying echium plants
- All echiums need lots of sun and free-draining soil, while more tender varieties may need protection from frost and cold winds. Make sure you have the right conditions for growing echiums before buying
- Bear in mind that most echiums available to buy from seed are biennials so you won't see them flower until the following year
- Always check plants for signs of damage or disease before planting
Where to buy echiums online
Echium varieties to grow
Echium amoenum Red Feathers is a perennial variety, but rather short lived. The plumes of flowers are a pinkish red. It’s a good filler for sunny borders and is also good for growing in a pot. Deadhead spent blooms to encourage repeat flowering. It's hardy across most of the UK in all but the coldest of winters – be ready to add protective fleece or move indoors if extremely cold nights are predicted.
Echium pininana is one of the more recognisable varieties with its dramatic spires of flowers. Biennial, it will self-seed readily in the right spot. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the Award of Garden Merit (AGM)
Echium vulgare is a biennial wildflower, good for attracting pollinators, especially bees. Rosettes of slender, bristly leaves appear in the first year, followed by spikes of blue, bell-shaped flowers. It’s perfect for growing in a wildlife garden or at the front of a sunny border in free-draining soil
Echium webbii bears tall spikes of brilliant, violet-blue flowers. It’s perfect for growing in a sunny, sheltered spot or sunny patio in milder parts of the UK. As a biennial it flowers in the second year, so if you want to enjoy the spectacular display you may need to nurse it through winter with some protective fleece.
]]>The best flowers for bumblebeeshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/the-best-flowers-for-bumblebees/Like honeybees, bumblebees visit flowers to collect pollen and nectar to take back to their colonies to feed the developing brood.
In the UK there are around 24 species of bumblebee, some more common than others. They can be distinguished from honeybees by their relatively fat, furry bodies compared to the smaller, slimmer appearance of honeybees.
Help more pollinators:
- The best flowers for honeybees
- How to make your garden butterfly-friendly
- The best flowers for hoverflies
Bumblebees don't make honey, which is used by honeybees to sustain the colony over winter. Instead, bumblebee colonies, which are smaller than those of honeybees, die each year, with new nests created by queens that have overwintered, in spring. Newly emerged queens feed on nectar to boost their energy levels, then locate a suitable nest site, for example under a shed or in an old hole or burrow. Once sited, she'll start collecting pollen as well as nectar to feed her first brood, once they hatch.
When it comes to flower preference, you'll find that different flowers attract different species. Buff-tailed bumblebees, Bombus terrestris, are larger and less agile than smaller species and have relatively short tongues, so they tend to opt for larger flowers, with nectaries that are easily accessible. The garden or small bumblebee, Bombus hortorum, is smaller with a relatively long tongue, and prefers to visit flowers with deep corollae.
In this short video guide, the experts at Bumblebee Conservation Trust share the best plants that gardeners can grow to help bumblebees.
View Green Video on the source website
Check out some of our favourite flowers to grow for bumblebees, below.
Rosemary
Rosemary is great for those hot, dry spots in the garden, and on top of the flowers being a magnet for bumblebees and other pollinators, you'll have fresh rosemary to use all year round.
Borage
The vivid blue flowers of borage produce masses of nectar, attracting pollinators like bumblebees and honeybees. As a bonus, borage is very easy to grow, simply requiring a spot in full sun or dappled shade, in moist, well-drained soil. The edible flowers can be used to garnish drinks and salads.
Scabious
Scabious have broad flowerheads packed with small flowers, acting as a landing pad for bumblebees. It's popular with many species and is planted here with crown vetch (Securigera varia) – another fantastic plant for bumblebees.
Foxgloves
Large species of bumblebee like buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris) and white-tailed bumblebees (Bombus lucorum) can often be spotted clambering into tubular foxglove blooms to reach the nectar within.
Echinops
Echinops, or globe thistles, have beautiful, perfectly spherical flowerheads in steely blues and purples. Like scabious, the flowers are held closely together, which means bumblebees can access many flowers without needing to expend lots of energy.
Lavender
Not just good for bumblebees, lavender will also attract butterflies and honeybees, so it's a good all-round plant to grow for wildlife.
Chives
Like rosemary, you can add the foliage of chives to your dishes, and like borage, the flowers are edible. The blooms are a hit with bumblebees, too, along with other pollinators like mason bees, Nomada bees and hoverflies.
Single-flowered dahlias
Go for single-flowered dahlias if you want to attract bumblebees. There are lots of single dahlias to grow, in a variety of patterns and colours. With regular deadheading, they'll prove to be a valuable source of late nectar.
Red clover
Wildflower meadows, even mini-meadows, can attract masses of pollinators. Red clover is often a component of these meadows, and for good reason – bumblebees love it! Check out three ways to start off a wildflower meadow.
Marjoram/oregano
Wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare) is an aromatic herb with pale pink flowers that attract all manner of pollinators, bumblebees included. If you're after oregano you can eat, too, try Origanum vulgare subsp. hirtum, which is said to have the best flavour.
Meadow cranesbill
The open flowers of meadow cranesbill, Geranium pratense, can be easily accessed by a number of bumblebees, regardless of tongue length.
Early bumblebees
Some species of bumblebee, like the early bumblebee (Bombus pratorum) are on the wing earlier than other species, sometimes as early as February, so it's important that gardeners supply plenty of early-flowering plants like hellebores, heathers and winter aconites. If you happen to come across a bumblebee nest in a compost heap or border, leave it alone and don't disturb it if possible – the nest won't last forever. If you don't want bumblebees to nest there again, you can block up the entrance hole once the nest has died.
Even more flowers bumblebees love
- Cardoons, Cynara cardunculus
- Viper's bugloss, Echium vulgare
- Single-flowered roses
- Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo
- White deadnettle, Lamium album
- Lungwort, Pulmonaria spp.
- Flowering currant, Ribes sanguineum
- Winter heather, Erica carnea
]]>What garden wildlife is doing nowhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/premium/what-garden-wildlife-is-doing-now-may/2023-04-20T14:20:11.000ZMay is the most exciting month for garden wildlife. Many bird species are feeding chicks in the nest or fledglings on the lawn. Bumblebees are starting to increase in number, and are joined by mining bees such as the tawny mining bee, which nests in the ground, and the red mason bee, which uses bee hotels. At night, hedgehogs are starting to look for mates – you may hear the tell-tale snuffles as males try to woo females at night.
Helping wildlife through a dry spring
In recent years, spring has been drier than previous averages. This puts pressure on wildlife as flowers produce less nectar in dry conditions, while leaves shrivel on caterpillar foodplants, which puts pressure on caterpillars and the birds that rely on them for food. Mammals such as hedgehogs, foxes and badgers have to travel further in search of drinking water, while hoverflies – many of which lay eggs in stagnant water – may be unable to lay eggs. It's also important to remember that some species, including the house martin and red mason bee, use mud to make their nests.
Keeping bird baths topped up and leaving out a dish of water on the ground, can be a lifeline for birds, hedgehogs and other mammals. Using grey water (such as from your bath or washing up bowl – as long as you use eco-detergents) to water the garden will help keep plants hydrated and ensure flowers continue to produce nectar. Making dishes of mud will help house martins and red mason bees, while a hoverfly lagoon can help provide breeding habitats for some species of hoverfly. As the climate changes we must be on hand to help wildlife however we can, and a bit of water here and there can save lives.
How to help wildlife in your garden
- Wildlife gardening
- Attract birds to your garden
- Make a bee-friendly garden
- Alan Titchmarsh on gardening for wildlife – podcast
Tadpoles are growing legs
While baby frogs are a couple of months off, frog tadpoles will be fattening up now and starting to grow legs. Their legs develop internaly and then 'pop out', with the left leg emerging first. The front legs develop first, followed by the back legs. Only then is the tail absorbed back into the body. At this time, tadpoles develop a taste for meat, and will eat insects trapped on the surface of the water, along with any meat scraps you feed them. Ensure they can exit the pond safely in a few weeks' time – if pond levels have dropped you may need to make them a ladder, using a log or piece of wood.
Great tits and blue tits are feeding their young
Great tits and blue tits are busy feeding their young, in May. One pair can have around 10 chicks in the nest, each of which needs to eat around 100 caterpillars per day, for the first three weeks of its life. If you see the birds frantically searching among your herbaceous plants and trees, it’s likely they’re looking for caterpillars. Give them a helping hand by ensuring plants are well watered so the caterpillars have enough to eat, and let them remain on your plants, rather than picking them off. Leave food out for adult birds to refuel quickly while they search for natural food to feed their young. Avoid putting out peanuts at this time of year, as there's a small risk of baby birds choking on large chunks of nut.
Red mason bees are building nests
May is the key time when red mason bees nest in bee hotels. After mating, the female gathers mud to line her nest cell, and then gathers pollen and nectar to make a ‘cake’ on to which she lays an egg. She seals the cell and starts another, collecting more pollen and nectar and laying an egg. After two-three weeks she will have laid up to 40 eggs, each one in an individual mud cell. Over summer the eggs hatch into grubs which eat the pollen and nectar cake, and then metamorphose into adult bees. They spend winter in their cocoons within the bee hotel and emerge the following year to mate and lay eggs of their own.
Slow worms are mating
Slow worms are starting to mate. Usually these cold-blooded reptiles spend their time in warm, sheltered spots such as compost heaps or beneath bespoke ‘reptile tins’ – which you can make by laying a piece of slate or corrugated iron over grass to create a sheltered habitat where they can warm up. But this month, they can be seen moving between territories, in search of a mate. The females remain ‘gravid’ (with eggs) throughout summer and then ‘give birth’ to live young from mid-to late August. Compost bins are a popular choice for breeding, so take care when turning yours.
Bats are establishing maternity roosts
Bats, such as the common pipistrelle and soprano pipistrelle, which are common in gardens, will be fully out of hibernation now, feeding on small insects such as mosquitoes and midges from around treetops and over ponds. Females will be forming maternity colonies from his month, and looking for communal roosting sites in buildings and trees. Males will continue to roost on their own or in small groups.
- How to make a bat box
- Nine of the best bat boxes
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