BBC Gardeners World Magazinehttps://www.gardenersworld.com2026-05-06T10:30:56.000Zhourly12000-01-01T12:00+00:00The best eight planters and containers for strawberrieshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/the-best-containers-for-strawberries/2026-05-06T10:00:37.000ZStrawberries are easy to grow and do well in containers, as long as you give them rich, fertile soil and a sunny, sheltered position. Strawberry planter pots take up very little space and can easily fit on a balcony or patio so anyone, no matter how small their space, can have a go at growing their own.

One advantage of growing strawberries in a planter is that the ripening fruit doesn't fall onto the ground, so is therefore less likely to be spattered by mud or munched by hungry slugs and snails. You can also give your plants the exact conditions they need, moving them into the sun to ripen the fruit, just when they need it.

Bear in mind that whatever the type of strawberry planter you choose, you will need to water your strawberries regularly to keep them hydrated. It's also important to feed container-grown strawberries weekly with a high potash fertiliser during the growing season, to ensure a good crop.

The best container to plant strawberries in has plenty of space for a few plants, is kept off the ground so slugs and snails can't get to the fruit, and doesn't dry out. There are advantages and disadvantages to all containers, as some will need regular watering and/or feeding, while others take up more space or don't keep the plants off the ground. Browse our list of strawberry planters, below, and find out which one works best for you.

Growing bag

Strawberries planted in a growing bag. Paul Debois

Standard growing bags are cheap to buy, take up little space and you can cut planting holes cut into the plastic.

Size: 95cm x 35cm (33 litres)

Number of plants: six

Advantages: cheap, and contains slow-release food that will last for six weeks.

Things to consider: not the most attractive option, the fruit may be eaten by rats or slugs and snails.

Bespoke strawberry planter

Strawberry growing in a bespoke strawberry pot. Tim Sandall

A classically designed terracotta strawberry planter can be planted in the top as well as in pockets dotted around the side.

Size: 35cm x 35cm

Number of plants: variable, depending on design

Advantages: bespoke planters look attractive and a good-sized pot holds plenty of plants. These strawberry planters also produced the highest yield of strawberries in our trial.

Things to consider: planting pockets can be prone to drying out.

Planting trugs

Strawberries planted in a raised felt, collapsible trug. Paul Debois

These free standing ‘V’ shaped planters on legs make great use of space. Some models are made using wood, others are made using felt or sturdy woven plastic, and can be folded down for easy storage after use.

Size: variable

Number of plants: variable, depending on size of planter

Advantages: great for a small space and practical if you find bending difficult.

Things to consider: some designs don't hold water well. May be unstable in a windy spot.

Hanging basket

Strawberries growing in a hanging basket. Paul Debois

A hanging strawberry planter is simply a hanging basket planted up with strawberries rather than ornamental plants. This will enable you to grow strawberries off the ground, making them ideal for protecting from slugs and snails.

Size: 40cm diameter

Number of plants: six

Advantages: an interesting change to a traditional hanging basket and fruit is kept away from slugs.

Things to consider: hanging baskets need regular watering and feeding as plants are growing in a limited amount of compost

Terracotta pot

Strawberries in a terracotta pot. Paul Debois

Simple terracotta pots are simple, attractive options that enable the fruits to spill over the side and are kept off the ground.

Size: variable

Number of plants: three to six

Advantages: terracotta pots are perfect for a patio, balcony or step.

Things to consider: this growing method produced the smallest crop in our trial, so plant up several planters for a bigger yield. Terracotta pots dry out more quickly than those made of plastic or other materials.

Window box

Strawberries growing in window box. Paul Debois

Window boxes provide a space-saving way to grow strawberries, helping to keep the fruit off the ground. Make sure you fix the box to the windowsill using brackets, so it doesn't fall off in high wind.

Size: typically 60cm x 15cm x 18cm

Number of plants: three to six

Advantages: window boxes can save on space if used on a windowsill or a balcony.

Things to consider: you may get a small crop so if you can, plant up several planters.

Vertical planting pockets

Strawberries growing in vertical planting pockets. Paul Debois

A vertical strawberry planter takes up very little space and allows you to grow fruit protected from wet soil and/or soil pests, such as slugs and snails. Cloth options are cheapest but more longer lasting versions are available.

Size: typically 1m x35cm

Number of plants: 16

Advantages: takes up very little room for the amount of plants you can grow.

Things to consider: you will need to keep the plants regularly watered.

Raised trough planter

Strawberries growing in a raised trough planter. Jason Ingram

Size: variable

Number of plants: variable

Advantages: larger trough planters provide more soil volume so strawberry roots can grow deeply and the soil won't dry out as quickly as smaller containers.

Things to consider: larger troughs can be expensive.

Frequently asked questions

How big of a planter do you need for strawberries?

Starwberries should be placed around 20cm apart, so measure the amount of growing space you have and plant accordingly, for example, a window box measuring 60cm long should comfortably fit three strawberry plants.

Are strawberry planters worth growing?

Yes! Strawberries are delicious and nutritious fruits that taste so much better when grown yourself, than anything you can buy in the shops. Planted in spring, strawberries are easy to grow, as long as you can protect them from slugs and snails, and they come back every year.

]]>From bag to bumper crop - how to grow potatoes anywherehttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/from-bag-to-bumper-crop-how-to-grow-potatoes-anywhere/2026-03-12T10:44:35.000ZThis article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.

From earthy new potatoes and bite-sized salad varieties, to floury bakers and roasters, the humble potato remains the nation’s favourite vegetable. If you’re a potato aficionado, there's a huge number of exciting potato varieties you can grow that you’ll never see in the shops. You don't even need a garden to grow them – many grow very happily in large bags or pots on a balcony or patio.

There are three main types of potato to grow, named according to when you plant and harvest them.

First early or ‘new’ potatoes are the earliest to crop, in June and July. They don't store for long so are best eaten fresh.

Second earlies (also called ‘new’ potatoes) take a few more weeks to mature and are harvested in July and August. These also don't store for long, so are best eaten fresh. 

Maincrop potatoes take the longest to mature and are harvested from August to October. They are suitable for baking, roasting and mashing, and can be stored for a few months.

How to grow potatoes at home

Potatoes are easy to grow – one seed potato will produce many potatoes to harvest. Prepare the soil by digging and removing weeds, and then dig straight trenches 12cm deep and 60cm apart. In spring, plant seed potatoes 30cm apart and cover them with soil to fill the trench. When the shoots reach 20cm tall, use a rake, hoe or spade to mound soil up around the bases of the shoots, covering the stems half way. This is called earthing up. You can also grow first early and second early potatoes in a large bag on a patio or balcony, regularly covering the bottoms of stems with more compost as they grow.

More expert advice on growing potatoes:

Growing potatoes: jump links

When to plant potatoes

Chitting potatoes

First early potatoes can be planted from mid-March, while second earlies should be planted a couple of weeks later. Maincrop potatoes are usually planted in late April or early May and need to stay in the ground longer to produce a good crop. However, planting times vary across the country – planting in northerly areas should be delayed by a couple of weeks, depending on temperatures and risk of frost.

If you have a greenhouse it's possible to plant a second batch of potatoes in late summer, which will yield a crop for Christmas Day.

How to chit potatoes

Before planting, many people 'chit' their early potatoes. This involves letting the potatoes grow short, strong, stubby shoots, which will allow them to start growing more quickly after planting. Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the end that has the most eyes uppermost. Stand in a cool, light spot until short shoots have formed, or when it's time to plant them out.

Should I rub shoots off my chitted potatoes?

Seed potatoes only need one or two shoots to grow, so if you've chitted your seed potatoes and they have more shoots, you can just rub off any extras with your fingers. Our video guide explains more about whether or not to rub extra shoots off your chitted potatoes.

View Green Video on the source website

How to plant potatoes

You can grow your own potatoes by planting out 'seed potatoes', which are small tubers rather than actual seeds. You can buy seed potatoes from late winter. Don't be tempted to use old potatoes from the veg rack as they won't produce reliable crops.

Home-grown potatoes do well in all types of soil, but the richer the better, so dig in plenty of well-rotted organic matter such as garden compost. An open, sunny site is best.

While maincrop potatoes grow well in the ground, early or salad potatoes will also do well in large pots and bags. Polypropylene potato growing bags are designed especially for this purpose and are handy if you're short of space. However, you can also plant potatoes in an old compost bag, with similar results.

Here, Monty explains how to grow potatoes in a bag:

View Green Video on the source website

When growing potatoes in the ground, plant earlies and salad types 10-15cm deep and 30cm apart, with 60cm between rows. Maincrop potatoes require more space to produce a decent crop. Plant them 40cm apart, with 75cm between rows. Plant potatoes with the shoots (or 'eyes') facing upwards.

Growing potatoes in a raised bed? Monty shows you how:

View Green Video on the source website

Where to buy potatoes online

Growing potatoes: caring for your crop

How to grow potatoes - earthing up potatoes

Water potatoes during warm, dry spells but avoid wetting the foliage unnecessarily, and keep the soil free of weeds. As the potato plants grow, use a spade or hoe to cover the shoots with soil to encourage the development of more tubers from the buried stems. This is called ‘earthing up’. Leave the top few centimetres poking out the top. As plants continue to grow you will need to earth them up again.

Watch Monty explain how to earth up potatoes growing in a bag:

View Green Video on the source website

Growing potatoes: problem-solving

How to grow potatoes - potato blight

Slugs can be a problem, especially if growing potatoes under black plastic.

Potato blight is a fungal disease which turns foliage yellow with dark patches and causes the tubers to rot. Grow a blight-resistant potato variety to avoid the problem. You can also cut the potato plants down at the first sign of infection, as the fungus will not have reached the tubers by that stage. Then harvest the tubers as soon as you can.

Never grow potatoes in the same soil year after year as this could lead to a build up of pests and diseases. These include potato eelworm, which causes stunted growth and poor cropping.

When to harvest potatoes

Harvesting potatoes

First early potatoes are harvested in June and July, when the potatoes are about the size of a large hen’s egg (gently rummage around in the soil to check). Cut the potato plants (also known as haulms) to the ground, then gently prise the plants out of the ground with a fork. First early potatoes don't store well, so dig them up in batches, as and when you want to eat them.

Second earlies are harvested in July and early August. Harvest in the same way as first earlies. Again, these potatoes don't store well, so dig them up in batches, as and when you want to eat them.

Maincrop potatoes are harvested from August to October, when the leaves on the plants have turned yellow and died down. Choose a dry day to dig up your crop so that they store better, ideally in the morning. Cut the plants to the ground and dig up your potatoes, discarding any that are bruised or have been attacked by pests. Leave them on the soil surface for a few hours in the sun to dry out properly, then brush off any soil before bagging them up.

Watch Monty Don's video guide to harvesting new potatoes:

View Green Video on the source website

To harvest potatoes grown in pots, simply tip out the contents and enjoy the rich – and easy – pickings.

Here Monty explains how to harvest potatoes grown in a bag:

View Green Video on the source website

Preparing and cooking potatoes

How to grow potatoes - baked potato

Wash and scrub potatoes before frying, boiling, baking, mashing, roasting or sautéeing – this has to be the most versatile vegetable!

Health note: never eat potatoes raw. Green potatoes contain a chemical called solanine, which they develop when exposed to light. It can cause severe stomach upsets.

Looking for inspiration on how to use your crop? Our friends at olive have curated a delicious collection of potato recipes, including their best-ever roast potatoes. And listen to our podcast episode, where Adam Frost and Good Food's Cassie Best share advice on growing and cooking potatoes:

View oEmbed on the source website

Storing potatoes

How to grow potatoes – how to store potatoes

Home-grown maincrop potatoes will store well for many months in a cool but frost-free place. Only store perfect tubers, removing any showing signs of damage, and don’t wash them before storage. All light must be excluded to avoid potatoes turning green and poisonous. Hessian or thick brown-paper sacks are available for the job. Check crops in store regularly, removing any rotten ones.

Watch Kevin Smith explain how to prevent stored potatoes from rotting, in our Quick Tips video:

View Green Video on the source website

Advice on buying potatoes

Where to buy seed potatoes online

Growing potatoes: potato varieties to grow

Early potatoes:

Salad potatoes:

Maincrop potatoes:

You could also try growing your own sweet potatoes, which although they are not really potatoes at all, are an excellent crop to grow in a more ornamental garden or a conservatory. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons

Frequently asked questions

Help! My potato leaves have brown spots Brown spots on potato leaves could be caused by a number of things, including magnesium deficiency, early blight (caused by Alternaria fungi) or potato blight (also known as late blight), Phytopthera infestens. Magnesium deficiency can be more common on light and sandy soils, and is remedied with a foliar feed of Epsom salts. Early blight isn't a big problem in the UK and is more common in North America. Both early and late blight can devastate potato crops – remove all foliage immediately and harvest the potatoes quickly to stop the disease reaching the tubers. Help! My seed potatoes are sprouting and have gone soft Sprouting seed potatoes is perfectly normal, and is actually encouraged – the act of potato chitting is done to encourage sprouts to develop, which is thought to increase potato yields. Slightly soft seed potatoes are usually nothing to worry about but really soft tubers may be mouldy. Check your seed potatoes thoroughly before planting and discard any with sunken or white patches, as these are rotting and could infect your other potatoes. What can I plant immediately after harvesting potatoes? If you want to make the most of soil vacated by harvesting potatoes, you can plant a number of crops in their place, including carrots, leeks and brassicas. If you're practising good crop rotation then brassicas usually follow potatoes. If you don't have plants ready to plant out, see what young plants are available from the garden centre – many have broccoli, cabbage, kale and swede plants ready to plant straight away. Is it possible to save potatoes for seed next year? It is possible to save potatoes for seed the following year, but you run the risk of transmitting disease. Seed potatoes are grown in a cool, controlled environment, so are certified disease-free. If you want to save your own potatoes for seed, keep them in a cool, dark spot. In late winter they should develop shoots and you can plant them as you would normal seed potatoes, from late March.

]]>7 winter greenhouse projects you'll wish you tried soonerhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/7-winter-greenhouse-projects-youll-wish-you-tried-sooner/2026-01-30T20:13:30.000ZRather than being stuck indoors over winter, why not turn your greenhouse into an attractive, productive retreat?

Pottering under cover in this halfway house between indoors and out is a great way to stave off any winter blues and to exercise your green fingers – and the more time you spend in your greenhouse this winter, the more plants you’ll want to add.

Need to give your greenhouse a bit of TLC? Get it in tip top condition with the help of our expert guide to the best pressure washers so you can buy in confidence.

Keep busy with our seven projects for a winter greenhouse, below.

 

Plant up an evergreen pot

Grown under cover these vibrant and spicily fragrant small-flowered cyclamen generally stay healthy and flower for longer. Team with hardy ferns, we used Polystichum polyblepharum, and dwarf late-winter or early-spring bulbs. Allow the cyclamen to go dormant in spring and start them off again in summer.

Cyclamen, fern and iris container

 

Tidy up pelargoniums

In mild parts of the UK, pelargoniums can cope in an unheated greenhouse, but on frosty nights wrap them in a double layer of fleece. In colder areas, give them a little heat to keep frost at bay. Water only sparingly and tidy up any dead leaves and shoots.

Tidy up pelargoniums

 

Harvest winter salads

Move hardy salads into the greenhouse for leafy pickings through to spring. Plant salad plugs into large containers or trays – a depth of 15cm is enough for hardy lettuces, cut-and-come-again salad mixes, mizuna, rocket, land cress, lamb’s lettuce and pak choi.

Harvest winter salads

 

Grow your own lemons

Glossy-leaved, aromatic citrus plants will give your greenhouse the air of a small orangery. Lemons are tough plants and can withstand temperatures down to freezing, but they tend to stop growing below 10°C and won’t produce flowers or set fruit while their roots are inactive. Stop feeding at low temperatures and water carefully, allowing the surface to dry out in between.

Grow your own lemons

 

Create a sempervivum pot

Plant houseleeks (sempervivum) in a shallow bowl of gritty compost and top with shingle. You can then move this outdoors over summer.

Create sempervivum pot

 

Pick fresh herbs

Bring pots of rosemary, sage and thyme under glass for better quality pickings, especially in cold, wet regions. Bay trees also prefer shelter from cold, drying winds. Mint will give fresh pickings indoors if potted up in autumn, but it needs warmth to keep growing all winter. Pot up some parsley, if your outdoor crop tends to get frosted, and marjoram will stay green for longer under glass.

Pick fresh herbs

 

Get ahead with beans

Broad beans will get off to a good start over winter and the earliest batches are less likely to suffer from black bean aphids. Direct sow hardy varieties outside during November, then sow under glass in pots, trays or modules from December to February. Once the pots are filled with roots, stand them outside in daytime to harden off, then plant out in March.

Get ahead with beans

Free mint plants

Root cuttings can be taken from mint in winter. Remove a creeping rhizome from a mint plant, then cut into sections 3-5cm long – each should contain at least one 'joint'. Lay out horizontally in a compost-filled shallot pot or tray, cover with compost, water, then leave in the greenhouse to grow.

Secateurs

]]>What to plant in Decemberhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/what-to-plant-december/2025-12-01T11:23:21.000ZPlenty of vegetable and flower seeds can be sown in the UK in December. Some can be sown outside, direct in the ground, while others need to be sown in a heated propagator indoors. Young plants of some hardy varieties can be planted, too.

December is a good time to plant as it means you can get ahead before spring. Sowing vegetables and flowers early can result in earlier harvests – winter-sown broad beans are ready to harvest from May, while hardy annual flowers sown in December can flower several weeks sooner than those sown in spring. Sowing and planting in December can mean fewer empty beds and more roots holding the soil together, which can prevent a loss of soil nutrients and erosion in winter rains.

As well as starting plants from seed, there's plenty of fruit bushes, shrubs and trees that can be planted during mild spells in December. It's a good time to buy bare-root trees, which can be planted between October and March. We've listed some ideas below including garlic, blackberries and gooseberries for crops to enjoy next year, or shrubs and trees like skimmia and acer for autumn and winter interest.

Vegetables to sow in December

Broad beans

Sowing broad beans. Tim Sandall

When to harvest: May to August

How to grow: sow broad beans in December for a crop as early as May. Sow direct outdoors if conditions are mild – broad bean seeds should germinate within a couple of weeks and will then stop growing and enter dormancy until temperatures pick up in spring. In cold conditions or areas, sow into pre-warmed soil beneath cloches or fleece, or in multi-celled trays in a greenhouse or on a windowsill, which you can plant out later.

Onions

Sowing onion seed. Neil Hepworth

When to harvest: June to September

How to grow: Boxing Day is the traditional day to sow onion seeds. Choose seeds, rather than sets, and start them off in pots indoors or undercover, to aid germination. Plant the young onion plants out in spring, spacing them 10cm apart.

Garlic

Planting garlic. Jason Ingram

When to harvest: June to August

How to grow: in mild regions, you can plant garlic sets outdoors in well drained soil. If you have a heavy soil then start them off in a multi-celled tray, planting one clove per cell. Water well and keep in a greenhouse or similar until spring, and then plant them out 10-15cm apart.

Lettuce

Lettuce 'Winter Gem'. Paul Debois

When to harvest: May to November

How to grow: certain lettuce cultivars, such as 'Winter Gem', have been specially bred for their ability to grow at low temperatures and provide a harvest. Sow in pots in an unheated greenhouse or a cold frame, for the best results.

Lamb's lettuce

Corn salad. Tim Sandall

When to harvest: October to February

How to grow: lamb's lettuce, also called corn salad, has been grown and eaten for centuries in the winter months. Simply sow the seeds in an unheated greenhouse, and enjoy the freshly picked leaves soon after.

Mizuna

Harvesting salad leaves such as mizuna. Sarah Cuttle

When to harvest: January to December

How to grow: mizuna can be sown in the greenhouse, or on the windowsill, and will crop throughout winter if temperatures remain mild (if they enter dormancy they will start growing again when temperatures increase). The young salad leaves can be used to pep up dishes like soups, salads and stir fries.

Microgreens

Harvesting microgreens. Jason Ingram

When to harvest: January to December

How to grow: microgreens are the seedlings of leafy herbs and plants that we would usually allow to grow to full size before harvesting. Sow and grow them indoors for a burst of flavour on dishes throughout winter.

Fruit to grow in December

Rhubarb

Rhubarb 'Timperley Early'. Jason Ingram

When to harvest: June to July

How to grow: bare-root rhubarb crowns can be planted between November and March, but avoid any time that the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Plant so that the tip of the crown (which will be where the leaves come from) is just above the soil surface. Firm in well after planting.

Gooseberries

Gooseberry 'Pax'. Sarah Cuttle

When to harvest: June to August

How to grow: plant bare-root gooseberry plants between October and March, avoiding any times when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. Plant so that the soil mark on the stem is level with the soil surface and firm in well. Planting this month will give plants time to establish before the spring.

Raspberries

Harvesting raspberries. Neil Hepworth

When to harvest: June to October

How to grow: plant raspberry canes between October and March, apart from when the ground is frozen or very wet. Line up the soil mark on the canes with the soil surface, covering the roots with about 5cm of soil. Firm in gently and water in.

Blackberries

Blackberry 'Adrienne'. Tim Sandall

When to harvest: June to October

How to grow: plant bare-root blackberries (stools) between October and March. Soak the stools before planting and bury them up to the old soil mark. Firm the plants in and water well.

Flowers to grow in December

Sweet peas

Pink sweet peas. Sarah Cuttle

Flowers: June to October

How to grow: although sweet peas are usually sown in autumn or early spring, it's fine to sow in December as long as you keep the seedlings frost free. They will need to be sown under cover, whether that's in a greenhouse, cold frame or porch. Sow into root trainers or cardboard tubes to help minimise root disturbance.

Laurentia

Laurentia. Sarah Cuttle

Flowers: June to October

How to grow: laurentia are bushy, half-hardy annuals, with star-shaped, scented flowers. The seeds can be sown under glass in winter, in a bright spot. These are usually sown January to March but could be sown at the end of the month in a heated propagator. This will help to warm the soil when sowing.

Geraniums (pelargoniums)

Scented leaf pelargonium. Tim Sandall

Flowers: June to October

How to grow: Geraniums are often propagated by taking cuttings, but why not try growing them from seed, too? Ideally, surface sow in a heated propagator, in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

Snapdragons (antirrhinum)

Snapdragon 'Appleblossom'. Paul Debois

Flowers: June to September

How to grow: though usually grown as annuals or biennials, snapdragons are actually short-lived perennials. They're easy to grow, and can be sown under glass near the end of December, to flower from June onwards.

Shrubs and trees to grow in December

Skimmia japonica

Skimmia japonica 'Foremanii'. Sarah Cuttle

Flowers: April to May

How to grow: plant skimmia in a partially shaded spot in well drained, fertile soil. These evergreen plants have scented flowers in spring and many varieties also have bright berries in the autumn. 'Rubella' has red flower buds that last through autumn and winter, with white scented flowers in the spring, while Skimmia japonica subsp. reevesiana has bright red berries in winter.

Sarcococca confusa (sweet box)

Sarcococca confusa, sweet box. Jason Ingram

Flowers: January to March

How to grow: plant this evergreen shrub for scented flowers in late winter. It's evergreen so a useful plant for adding structure to borders or a container, and it can thrive in dry shade once established. Plant it in well-drained soil, with the top of the root ball level with the surrounding soil. Water regularly until it has put down roots.

Japanese maple

Acer palmatum. Japanese maple. Jason Ingram

How to grow: Japanese maples, also known as acers, can be planted between October and March. Choose a sheltered position. Maples will thrive in most soils but avoid any sites that are prone to waterlogging. Compact varieties can also be grown in containers. Fill these with loam-based compost or a compost that is specifically for trees and shrubs.

]]>I dropped 84 pounds in weight AND reversed my type 2 diabetes. Here's howhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/premium/i-dropped-84-pounds-in-weight-and-reversed-my-type-2-diabetes-heres-how/2025-11-13T20:56:16.000ZWhen Andrew Oldham was diagnosed with type 2 diabetes in his late forties, his doctor didn’t mince her words.

“She gave me an ultimatum, which was quite harsh really,” he said when he joined us on the BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine Podcast.

“She said I had a choice: I could reverse it. I had, I think, a three-to-six-month window. ‘Or,’ she said, ‘at some point in your future, you're going to lose your feet’.”

For Andrew, a gardener and writer living in the Pennines, it was a terrifying wake-up call, but not an unfamiliar one.

Two decades earlier, a car accident had left him with spinal damage and the slow, painful task of relearning how to walk.

“Obviously, when you're learning to walk again in your late 20s, it's not as easy as when you're a toddler. I was in a lot of pain and I ended up getting quite depressed and sad about it. It was my consultant who recommended that I take up gardening,” he says.

“I only had a small cottage garden [at the time], but it really did pull me out of a very dark place. And that's how I got into gardening. It's the idea of planting a seed. And then that seed becomes something.

“I think it took roughly between 18 months and two years for me to give up things like walking sticks. I was in a wheelchair for a while, and it did open my eyes to how people are treated when they're in a wheelchair.”

Seed potatoes

Rebuilding a life, again

So with this latest, terrifying medical news of a type 2 diabetes diagnosis, received just before the start of the growing season in late winter, Andrew once again turned to his garden for renewal.

Within weeks, his seed potatoes for that season, lovingly chitted and ready to plant, had been given away. He knew that potatoes were off-limits, being too starchy.

“Then I looked into carrots and found out they are a no-no; they’re an occasional treat because they're still high in sugars,” he says.

“I found out that anything that grew above ground was okay for me. So I started to experiment with things like different types of lettuces.”

That was the start of a radical lifestyle change rooted in the soil. By swapping supermarket staples for homegrown salads, ditching hidden carbs, and eating in tune with the seasons, Andrew lost over 84 pounds in weight and reversed his diabetes.

“People I've not seen for quite a long time look at me and say, ‘You've lost loads of weight. How have you done it? What's your secret?’ But there's literally no secret to it. It's just we're not talking about it. And we're not talking about the carbohydrates hidden in our food.”

Checking out carbohydrate levels in supermarket food became a daily routine, Andrew adds.

“It became a weird kind of game between me and my wife, Carol, when we were in the supermarket, shouting at each other across the aisle, ‘Do you know how much carbohydrate is in this? We used to eat this by the ton!’ So we ditched things like white bread, white pasta, and rice, and we started to go for wholemeal choices.

“I noticed the more weight I lost, the more I could do in the garden. The more energy I had to do little projects, the more the garden started to change and develop. And the more I did, the more weight I lost, and the more I started to grow. So I became the king of salads and growing lettuces.”

Sliced bread

Planning for the future

But Andrew’s story isn’t just about food. It’s also about how gardening reshapes lives over time. His current, quarter-acre plot, perched 1,300 feet above sea level, is now a landscape of vegetable beds and a developing food forest, planned with future years in mind.

The latter of these, planned for the top of the hill to act simultaneously as windbreak, wildlife habitat and low-effort productive space, is a key part of his future-proofed plan.

“I said to someone recently, ‘There's going to be a day when I'll get too old and I won't be able to garden. And they said, ‘Well, what are you going to do with your garden then?’ And I said, ‘well, do you see the food forest I’m going to plant at the top?’.”

Accessibility is a constant theme in Andrew’s approach. After his spinal injury, he learned to garden from a wheeled seat, working in raised beds and containers he could reach. That experience shaped his philosophy: build gardens that adapt, that welcome difference, and that don’t rely on brute strength. “You have to deal with what you're given, and the garden that you're given,” he says. “You have to listen to it, and adapt to it.”

Now, he wants more people to benefit from gardening and build their connections with nature. “You meet lots of beautiful, wonderful people in gardening. They are the kindest community in this world. I think if we had a little bit more of that in all levels of our society, we'd be a great nation. We'd be absolutely wonderful – nothing could stop us.”

PHOTOS: Alun Callender; Jason Ingram; Getty

]]>How to grow blackberrieshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-blackberries/2025-10-30T16:20:15.000ZBlackberries are easy to grow and are highly productive, producing bumper crops of delicious fruit from just one plant. Unlike wild blackberries, which are the fruit of brambles and are commonplace in hedgerows and are free to forage, cultivated blackberries are larger and have a better flavour. What's more, cultivated blackberries tend to have a vigorous rather than rampant growth habit, and many varieties are thornless.

Blackberries are a good crop to grow in small gardens as they can be trained vertically, giving lots of productive growth from just a small area of ground.

Where to grow blackberries

Blackberries are hardy and grow throughout the UK. For best results grow in full sun, in fertile soil enriched with compost or well-rotted manure. Most blackberry varieties produce long vigorous stems, known as canes, and need to be trained on a system of wires. This can be against a wall or fence, or a post and wire framework within a garden or allotment. For pots, choose a compact variety that reaches around a metre in height.

How to sow blackberry seeds

To successfully grow blackberries in the UK it's best to buy plants that will fruit within a year or two, rather than raising a blackberry plant from seed, which can take several years to produce fruit.

If you're determined to grow blackberries from seed, buy seed or use seed from the berry of a named variety. Sow at any time of year in pots or trays of loam-based seed compost with added grit or sand to create an open, free-draining mix. Cover the seed lightly with grit. Stand in a cool place outside or in a cold frame and be patient as seedlings can take months to appear. Once large enough to handle, pot up the seedlings individually and grow on before planting out.

How to plant blackberries

Before planting, use vine eyes to attach support wires to a wall, fence or set of sturdy posts. Fix wires horizontally and space them 30cm apart, with the lowest one at 90cm from the ground.

Autumn is the best time to plant blackberries, so they become established in time for the growing season. This is the only time to plant bare-root blackberry plants. Pot grown plants are available all year-round but are still best planted in autumn.

Before planting, cut the stems to 30cm and soak the roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours. Plant at the same depth as growing previously – on bare-root plants look for the soil 'tide mark' at the base of the stem, and plant pot-grown plants so the top of the rootball sits at soil level. Firm the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.

Spacing between plants depends on the ultimate size of a variety, which varies considerably. More compact blackberries like ‘Loch Ness’ can be spaced 2m apart while more vigorous varieties need spacing of up to 4m.

To grow blackberries in pots, choose compact varieties such as ‘Opal’ or ‘Coolaris Late’. Containers should be at least 30cm wide and deep. Use a soil-based potting compost with some added grit for drainage, and plant as per the instructions above. Compact varieties don't need to be trained up support wires.

How to care for blackberries

During the first growing season, water during dry spells to help plants establish. Also in the first year, cut off any flowering shoots to allow the plant to concentrate energy on establishing a good root system. Thereafter, only water plants in periods of drought, unless you're growing them in a pot.

Tie in new stems to the support as and when you need to.

Mulch soil in spring with well-rotted garden compost or manure, keeping the mulch clear of the stems. This boosts the soil’s water-holding capacity and suppresses weeds. Feeding is rarely necessary unless growth looks poor and stunted.

Pot-grown blackberries need regular watering – typically around three times a week during the growing season, and a fortnightly feed using liquid tomato food. In spring, scrape away the top 5cm of compost and replace with fresh, to replenish the natural stock of nutrients.

How to prune blackberries

Prune blackberries annually to remove the canes that have borne fruit, and to create space to tie in new ones that will bear fruit the next year.

Blackberries fruit on two-year-old canes which need to be cut out completely after fruiting, down to soil level. Do this anytime from when fruiting finishes until late winter. New canes should have been produced already and should be tied onto the support framework.

Make the job easier by keeping new canes separated from the fruiting ones. Either gather the new canes into two groups lying on the ground, to left and right, securing with pegs if necessary. Or, tie the fruiting canes onto the framework in a fan shape with a gap in the middle, where you can temporarily tie the new growth, so once the old canes are pruned out, the new ones spread out along the wires.

Pests and diseases

Blackberries are vigorous plants and aren’t susceptible to pests or diseases. Ripe fruit is likely to turn mouldy if left unpicked, or in prolonged wet weather. If this happens early in the fruiting period, pick off the mouldy fruits to avoid them affecting adjacent berries in the fruit cluster. In very hot summers the fruit can be burned.

Birds are likely to eat the ripe fruit. While there’s usually enough to go around, you can protect your crop by growing soft fruit plants in a netting enclosure or fruit cage, or hang bird scarers to deter them. Avoid covering plants with loose netting where birds are likely to get entangled.

What are hybrid berries?

Usually a cross between raspberries and blackberries, these include loganberries, tayberries, tummelberries and boysenberries. Fruiting is usually earlier than blackberries, but they’re grown in the same way.

CUT-OUT-1024X1024-garden-gloves-GettyImages-500840488

Harvesting blackberries

Harvesting blackberries. Jason Ingram

For maximum sweetness, let the fruits swell to full ripeness with an even, dark colouring. Gently pull them off the canes and pop them into a shallow dish to avoid crushing them. Watch that the juice doesn’t stain your clothing.

Storing blackberries

Blackberries bruise very easily and won’t keep fresh for long. Store in the fridge where they’ll keep for a few days. They do, however, freeze well. Wash fruits and allow to drain in a sieve or colander. Spread out in a single layer on trays, pop in the freezer, then transfer to bags or tubs after a few hours. This keeps individual fruits separate so you can take a few out as needed.

Preparation and uses

Wash well and remove the hull (stem) before using to make summer-fruit pudding, coulis, smoothies, jam, pies, crumbles and home-made wine. Try this easy recipe for apple and blackberry crumble.

Advice on buying blackberries

Where to buy blackberries online

Blackberry plants:

Blackberry seed:

Blackberries varieties to grow

Blackberry 'Adrienne'. Tim Sandall

‘Adrienne’ – delicious fruit on strong, thornless stems. Height x Spread: 2.5m x 2.5m

‘Coolaris Late’ – extremely compact growth, suitable for containers. H x S: 1.2m x 1.2m

‘Loch Katrine’ – extra-large and sweet-tasting fruits on a fairly compact growing bush. H x S: 2m x 2.5m

‘Loch Ness’ – moderate size and vigour, with high yields of large fruits on thornless canes. H x S: 2m x 2.5m

‘Merton Thornless’ – large crops of well-flavoured berries on thornless stems. H x S: 2.5m x 3m

‘Obsidian’ – one of the earliest to fruit, in July or sometimes even June, and is of moderate size. H x S: 2m x 2.5m

Frequently asked questions

Can I grow a blackberry bush from a blackberry?

A single blackberry fruit contains multiple seeds that germinate readily, which is why bramble bushes are so abundant in the wild. However, seedlings from cultivated blackberries won’t be the same as their parent. Buying a blackberry plant of a named variety is the best way to guarantee a good plant that crops well.

How long does it take to grow a blackberry?

Blackberries fruit on two-year-old shoots, or canes, and should not be allowed to fruit in the first year after planting to allow the bush to establish fully. So, it takes at least two years from planting for a plant to start producing a crop.

]]>How to grow purple-sprouting broccolihttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-purple-sprouting-broccoli/2025-10-21T14:49:38.000ZPurple sprouting broccoli has great flavour, a long harvesting season and is extremely good for you – a single portion provides half your daily requirement of carotenoids, plus high levels of folic acid and vitamins A and C. Purple sprouting is similar to, but not the same as broccoli or calabrese, as it produces smaller heads in early spring, which are purple (although they turn green when cooked).

Purple sprouting broccoli crops over a longer period than broccoli harvested in summer, and is hardier, tolerating temperatures as low as -12°C. If you choose the right varieties, and stagger your seed sowing times, you can harvest purple sprouting broccoli from autumn through to early summer the following year. White sprouting broccoli is the same as purple sprouting broccoli, but its heads (immature flowers) are white, instead of purple.

Like other brassicas, purple sprouting broccoli thrives in a fertile, firm, alkaline soil. Avoid growing it on an exposed site, where the wind will buffet the stems and loosen the soil around the roots.

How to sow purple sprouting broccoli

Sow in pots under cover from late winter to spring, or outside in the soil in summer. Unless you have lots of room, don’t sow broccoli in its final position – starting broccoli in pots or a seedbed and then transplanting to its final position is best, because broccoli takes up a lot of space in the garden.

You Will Need

Step 1

Sow the seeds into small pots or multi-cell trays, using a good quality multi-purpose or loam-based seed and cuttings compost. If sowing seeds together in a pot, prick out once your sprouting broccoli seedlings are large enough to handle. Transplant them into single 9cm pots and water in well.

Sowing purple sprouting broccoli seed

Step 2

Prepare the soil by forking over, removing large stones, debris and perennial weeds. Bulky organic matter is essential on lighter soils and even where soil is heavy, it’s worth adding to improve moisture retention, fertility and texture. You may need to add lime if your soil is acidic. Brassicas dislike loose soil, so prepare the ground several months in advance of planting, if you can. If not, tread over the ground to firm it before planting.

Forking over the soil

Step 3

Transplant when the plants are well grown with several true leaves and around 10cm tall. Water well beforehand, and plant them 50-60cm apart, with a similar distance between the rows. Once planted, firm all around the roots with your foot. Water again after planting. Grow six plants if you want enough broccoli to feed a family of four. Plant out sprouting broccoli throughout summer and into early autumn, though planting as late as September is best avoided in cold areas.

Transplanting the young plants

Step 4

Always keep the soil moist to encourage optimum growth and to avoid plants bolting (prematurely producing shoots which run to flower) during hot dry spells of weather. Remove weeds to reduce competition. If growth is slow and stems of purple buds fail to appear, use a liquid feed to give them a boost. Cover with fleece or mesh to keep out insects and birds.

Watering the broccoli plants

How to care for purple sprouting broccoli

Water during dry spells. Keep the soil around the plants clear of weeds, which would compete for water and nutrients. Remove any yellowing leaves which could become the source of diseases.

Stake or support the plants to prevent wind rock loosening the roots.

Cover the crop with fine insect mesh to protect against caterpillars and birds.

Harvesting purple sprouting broccoli

Harvest when the flower shoots are well developed but before the flowers have started to open. In the UK, this can be from  summer to late autumn for early spring-sown plants, or late winter to spring for later-sown crops.

Cut the central spear with a sharp knife first, as this encourages sideshoots to develop quickly. Regular picking of the sideshoots boosts production of more shoots and will extend the cropping time, too.

Storing purple sprouting broccoli

Use broccoli as soon as possible after harvest, for optimum taste and nutrition. Sprouting broccoli keeps for several days in the fridge and is best stored in the salad drawer.

To freeze sprouting broccoli, first blanch (part boil) otherwise it will be soggy when defrosted. Prepare by washing first and separating bulky stems into smaller pieces. Place in a large pan of boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then drain and transfer to iced water. Drain well, spread out on a baking sheet to freeze for a few hours, then store in freezer bags or lidded plastic containers.

Preparation and uses

Broccoli is simple to prepare and cook. Simply wash, then steam to use as an accompanying vegetable to many dishes. Broccoli is also good when sliced or broken into little spears and added to stir-fries, stews, or casseroles. Or use purple sprouting broccoli as the main item in dishes such as gratins and pasta – it partners particularly well with ingredients such as parmesan, blue cheese, anchovies, leeks and mushrooms. Find purple sprouting broccoli recipes from our friends at Olive Magazine.

Advice on buying purple sprouting broccoli

Where to buy purple sprouting broccoli

Frequently asked questions

How tall does purple sprouting broccoli grow?

Most purple sprouting broccoli varieties grow up to 90cm high and wide.

How long does purple sprouting broccoli take to grow?

Purple sprouting broccoli can take up to eight months to crop, where plants stand dormant over winter, and then regrow for harvesting in early spring.

]]>How to grow a ginger planthttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-ginger/2025-10-21T11:28:01.000ZThis article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.

Ginger is a root vegetable with a fresh, spicy flavour. It's used in a number of dishes, including curries, stir-fries, salads and smoothies. It has powerful anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory properties and is a great digestive aid, making it a fantastic choice for the home grower.

Ginger is native to tropical and subtropical forests of south-east Asia. However it's easy to grow in the UK, as long as it's grown in a warm, sheltered and frost-free spot, such as in a greenhouse or conservatory. Ginger needs warmth, so is best grown as an annual although it's possible to overwinter ginger if you keep it indoors. In hot climates, ginger does best in partial shade but it will tolerate more sun with British temperatures. Move to partial shade if conditions become too hot and sunny in summer.

How to grow a ginger plant at home

To grow ginger at home, pick up some fresh ginger root from your supermarket or grocery store – it's usually sold alongside herbs or with garlic and chillies. Check the root over carefully, choosing a firm, plum root with 'eyes', which are the developing ginger stems. Also bear in mind that supermarket ginger may have been treated with a chemical to stop growth, but this can be removed by soaking the root for a few hours. Plant the roots in shallow compost in a seed tray and keep in a warm spot until the shoots have developed. Pot on into a fresh pot, topping up with compost as the stems grow. Keep well watered. Your ginger should be ready to harvest in autumn.

Where to grow ginger

Growing ginger - mature ginger plant growing with the root exposed

Ginger will grow in any sunny spot in a frost-free, sheltered spot. A greenhouse or conservatory is ideal.

How to plant ginger

Growing ginger - inserting a ginger root into compost

You can place a whole piece of ginger in a pot or cut it into sections, ensuring each piece has at least two 'eyes' to grow shoots from. If cutting the ginger, leave it for a couple of days so the wounds callus over. Then, part-fill a seed tray or pot with compost, and place the ginger on the surface with its eyes facing upwards. Cover the ginger root with a couple of centimetres of compost, leaving the eyes exposed. Water using a watering can with a rose attached, and keep in a warm spot in partial shade.

After a couple of weeks your ginger root will have developed roots and shoots. Gently lift it from the seed tray and transplant into a pot of compost, placing it on the surface and covering gently with a 5cm layer of compost. Ensure the stem is sticking out at the top. Firm gently and water well, allowing to drain.

How to care for ginger

As your ginger plant grows, keep it in a warm, partially shaded spot and water regularly, ensuring the compost remains just moist. Top up with additional compost as the stem grows. You can pot on your ginger plant and grow it on as a house plant or even outside in the summer months, taking care to ensure it's not exposed to cold winds. If growing your ginger outside, move it back indoors when temperatures start to fall in mid-autumn.

How to harvest ginger

Freshly harvested ginger roots

Your ginger plant will stop producing leaves in late summer. Harvest the roots any time after this, or before the first frosts if growing outside. To harvest ginger, simply remove the rhizome from the soil. Harvest all or some of the roots – you can cut the rhizome and pot up the rest, as long as you keep it in a warm spot over winter. Wash thoroughly before eating. You can store some roots in the freezer to use as and when you need to.

Advice on buying ginger

Where to buy kit for growing ginger

]]>How to grow cabbageshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-cabbages/2025-10-15T10:50:59.000ZCabbages are a versatile vegetable belonging to the brassica family, and come in a range of different colours and shapes, and with different leaf textures. They take up a lot of growing space and are slow to mature, but there's such a huge range of types to grow that you can harvest cabbages almost all year round. Cabbage can be used in many ways, including shredded in salads and coleslaw, added to stir-fries or mixed into soups, as well as a side dish to accompany main courses.

Cabbages are rich in vitamins and high in fibre, aiding general health as well as a healthy digestive system. Be careful eating cabbage and drinking boiled cabbage water if you have a sensitive digestive system, including IBS. Some studies have shown that a high fibre diet aids gut flora and protects your digestive system against bacteria, while others advocate avoiding cabbage and other high-fibre leafy plants as they can cause bloating and wind. Treat any new vegetable with caution and consume in small doses to test your gut responses before consuming significant quantities.

Where to grow cabbages

Red cabbage. Jason Ingram

Grow cabbages in a sunny spot in deep, fertile soil. The soil pH must be alkaline to neutral, so if you think your soil may be acidic then do a soil pH test before planting, and add lime to the soil if necessary, or grow in a raised bed where you can control the growing medium more easily. Bear in mind that cabbages take several months to harvest, so grow them where you won't need to use the space for something else.

How to grow cabbages from seed

Sow cabbage seeds at different times of year, depending on the type – check the back of the seed packet for details.

In autumn or spring, sow in seed trays or small pots of peat-free compost, placing two seeds per pot or module. Keep under cover in a greenhouse, polytunnel, glass porch or on a well-lit windowsill. Thin seedlings, leaving the  the stronger one, when the seedlings have appeared and grow on until the plants have four or five leaves. At this stage your cabbage plants are ready to plant out – harden them off to acclimatise them to the outdoors for a week or so before planting.

From mid-spring to early autumn, sow outside in rows in a seedbed and then thin the seedlings to 8-10cm apart to grow on for transplanting. Alternatively, sow cabbage seed direct in rows 30-45cm apart, and thin plants to 30-45cm.

How to plant cabbages

Cabbage plug plants ready to be planted out. Tim Sandall

If the soil is loose, tread over before planting. Plant at 30-45cm spacings – check the seed packet for advice on planting spacings, as different varieties should be spaced at different intervals. Firm the plants well to secure the roots and help prevent cabbage root fly laying eggs in the soil around the stem. Adding a root collar immediately after planting also helps keep cabbage fly at bay. Water in well.

How to care for cabbages

Keep cabbage plants well-watered during dry spells so the soil never dries out, but don't let it get waterlogged either. Keep the soil around the crop clear of weeds which would compete for water and nutrients. Remove any yellowing leaves, which could become the source of diseases.

Pests and diseases

Large white caterpillar. Sarah Cuttle

Cabbages are liable to several pests and diseases that commonly affect plants in the brassica family.

The caterpillars of large and small white (cabbage white butterflies) usually cause damage, making holes in the leaves and eating into the heart of the plant. You can pick caterpillars off by hand or use insect-proof netting. However, you may find that wasps take most of the caterpillars from the plants to feed their young, and the plants recover after the caterpillars have completed their lifecycle. You can also grow closely related nasturtiums nearby and transfer the caterpillars onto the nasturtium leaves, to protect your crop.

In winter, pigeons may eat your cabbages. Protect plants by covering with netting, stretched taut to avoid the risk of the birds becoming entangled. Hanging up bird scarers such as fluttering fabric on strings may deter birds, but this depends on the type of scarer and how hungry the birds are. Netting is the safest bet.

Cabbage root fly lays its eggs in the soil and these hatch into small white larvae which tunnel into the roots. Protect young plants by using brassica collars, which prevent egg-laying. Covering mature plants with insect mesh also provides good protection.

Club root is a soil-borne disease occurring mostly in the warmer months. It infects the roots, causing them to become swollen, affecting the growth of cabbages above ground. Improving drainage can help, as can adding lime to make the soil more alkaline. If your plants are affected, remove and destroy them, and avoid grow brassica plants in the same spot for at least four years.

In this video, Alan Titchmarsh explains why cabbages suffer from club root and how to avoid it.

View Green Video on the source website

How to harvest cabbages

Newly harvested cabbage 'Marner Large Red'. Sarah Cuttle

Once your cabbage plants are mature and well formed, use a sharp knife to sever the cabbage from its roots. If time and space permit, try leaving the plant with a 10cm stalk, as you may get a smaller, second crop from it. Simply score a shallow cross in the stump to encourage smaller cabbages to form.

Preparing and cooking cabbages

Discard any floppy outer or yellowing leaves. Cut out the hard central stalks from the leaves. Wash well, then shred and use raw in salads and coleslaw, pickled in sauerkraut, braised or lightly steamed as a side dish with a knob of butter. Take care not to over-cook cabbage as it can taste and smell bitter.

Storing cabbages

Cabbages are best eaten as soon as they are picked for the best texture and flavour. Most will keep in the fridge for several days, with those that form firm heads keeping for weeks.

Advice on buying cabbages

Where to buy cabbages

Cabbage varieties to try

‘Earliest Of All’ – compact, pale green heads ready for picking from July

‘Langedijk’ – tender heads with a white heart for use over autumn and winter

‘Primero’ – blackish-purple summer cabbage

‘Savoy King’ – autumn/winter cabbage, hardy

Frequently asked questions

Are cabbages poisonous to pets?

Cabbage is nutritious and safe for pets to eat, although in small quantities only, because it can cause bloating and flatulence. For dogs and cats, chop cabbage into small pieces and steam or boil first.

How long do cabbages take to grow?

As a rough guide, cabbages take around 20 weeks to grow from sowing to harvest. Winter cabbage, including red and white cabbage, take longer.

]]>How to grow broccolihttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-broccoli/2025-10-14T07:33:35.000ZBroccoli is easy to grow, providing you with a delicious, nutritious crop of blue-green heads, which can be harvested from summer to autumn, depending on when you sowed the seed. There are several types of broccoli to grow, including calabrese, which is the most common type of broccoli sold in supermarkets. This is named after the Italian region of Calabria and has one large head, but smaller heads develop after the central head is cut.

Sprouting broccolis, including purple sprouting broccoli, produce smaller heads but can be harvested over a longer period.

Broccoli is a popular vegetable, thanks to its vitamin content and its versatility in the kitchen. It can be used in anything from salads to curries, as well as steamed and served as a side dish.

Where to grow broccoli

Grow broccoli in fertile soil in a sunny spot. You can grow broccoli in open soil or in raised beds at least 75cm deep, or in large containers.

Broccoli benefits from crop rotation, and does best in soil where beans or peas were growing previously. This is because peas and beans are legumes, which fix nitrogen in the soil, aiding leaf growth in plants that are in the brassica family.

Broccoli needs to grow in alkaline soil, so use a soil pH test kit to measure its alkalinity before you start. Acid soil can be made alkaline by adding lime – this is easier to do in raised beds or containers.

How to sow broccoli seed

Sowing broccoli seed. Amanda Rawling

Broccoli is easy to raise yourself from seed. If you have a growing space such as a greenhouse, polytunnel or glass porch, start early by sowing broccoli seeds in modules or small pots, from late winter to early spring. Sow sprouting broccoli a little later, from early spring to early summer. Sow in small pots or modular trays of peat-free compost, placing two seeds per pot or module. Thin to the stronger one when the seedlings have appeared and grow on until the plants have four or five leaves. At this stage your broccoli plants are ready to plant out.

To sow broccoli outdoors from early spring, sow in rows in a seedbed and thin the seedlings to 8-10cm apart to grow on for transplanting. Unless you have lots of room, don’t sow broccoli in its final position. Starting broccoli in pots or a seedbed and then transplanting to its final position is best, because broccoli takes up a lot of space in the garden.

How to plant out broccoli

Planting out broccoli. Jason Ingram

Prepare the soil for broccoli several months in advance of sowing or planting, so the ground has time to settle. Unless your soil is already rich and fertile, add plenty of well-rotted compost or manure. Broccoli needs to be planted firmly in the soil, so if it's loose at planting time, tread it over to firm and consolidate the ground.

Plant broccoli around 3cm deeper than the plants were growing in pots or the seedbed, so the stem is well supported. Space plants 30cm apart with 45cm between rows. Sprouting broccoli needs a bit more room, at 45cm spacings, so there's plenty of space for side shoots to develop. Firm the soil well around the roots – this is important as broccoli doesn’t thrive in loose soil – and water well.

How to care for broccoli

Netted broccoli plants with collars against root fly. Neil Hepworth

Regular watering during dry spells is important as broccoli shouldn’t be allowed to go short of water. Keep the soil around the crop clear of weeds, which would compete for water and nutrients. Remove any yellowing leaves which could become the source of diseases.

As broccoli develops into large plants, securely stake or support the crop to avoid the plants rocking in the wind and loosening the roots.

Covering the crop with fine insect mesh is good practise to ensure protection against pests and birds.

Pests and diseases

Large white caterpillar on broccoli plant. Sarah Cuttle

Broccoli is prone to several problems that commonly affect plants in the brassica family.

The caterpillars of large and small white butterflies frequently cause damage, making holes in the leaves and eating into the heart of the plant. You can pick caterpillars off by hand or use insect-proof netting. However, you may find that wasps take most of the caterpillars from the plants to feed their young, and the plants recover after the caterpillars have completed their lifecycle. You can also grow nasturtiums nearby to attract caterpillars from your brassicas onto the nasturtium leaves.

Club root is a soil-borne disease occurring mostly in the warmer months. It infects the roots, causing them to become swollen, affecting the growth of the broccoli plants above ground. Improving drainage can help, as can adding lime to make the soil more alkaline. If your plants are affected, don't grow brassica plants.

Harvesting broccoli plants

Harvesting purple sprouting broccoli. Jason Ingram

Depending on the type of broccoli you're growing, you can start cutting spears about 10-12 weeks after sowing, when they’re well-formed but before the buds open into flowers. Cut the main, central head, first, which will trigger the development of side shoots. Then continue to cut side shoots regularly over the next four to six weeks. Use a sharp knife to cut where the base of the spear meets the main stem.

Preparation and uses

Looking for inspiration on how to use your crop? Our friends at olive have curated a delicious collection of broccoli recipes, including their easy baked gnocchi with broccoli, blue cheese and walnuts.

Storing broccoli

Ideally, use broccoli as soon as possible after harvest, for maximum taste and nutrition. However, broccoli heads keep for at least a week in the fridge and sprouting broccoli keeps for several days. Storing in the salad drawer is best.

To freeze broccoli, first blanch (part cook) otherwise it will be soggy when defrosted. Prepare your broccoli by washing the heads and chopping or breaking up into small florets. Place in a large pan of boiling water for 3 minutes, then drain and transfer to iced water. Drain, then spread out on a baking sheet to freeze, transferring to freezer bags or plastic containers after a few hours.

Advice on buying broccoli

Where to buy broccoli

Broccoli varieties to grow

Purple and white sprouting broccoli. Sarah Cuttle

Broccoli 'Green Magic' RHS AGM – an early maturing variety with a good flavour and rust resistance

'Brokali Apollo' – a cross between broccoli and Chinese kale, with tasty, tender stems similar to those of sprouting broccoli

White sprouting broccoli – white-sprouting broccoli has a slightly milder flavour than purple or green

‘Early Purple Sprouting’ – purple-sprouting broccoli is tasty and nutritious and the leaves are also edible

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to grow broccoli?

Once young broccoli plants are in the ground, it takes from around 10-12 weeks to start producing a crop. This does depend on the variety and time of year – purple sprouting broccoli takes longer because it stands in the ground over winter and crops in spring.

Can you grow broccoli from broccoli?

You can grow a new crop of leaves, and perhaps small broccoli heads, by putting the waste stems from broccoli flower heads in jars of water on the windowsill. Cut off a small section from the base of the stem to ensure good water uptake. While this won’t produce a big crop, it’s a fun thing to do with either home-grown or shop-bought broccoli. This only works with the chunky stems of calabrese broccoli, not the slender stems of sprouting types.

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