BBC Gardeners World Magazine https://www.gardenersworld.com/tag/monty-don Wed, 27 May 2026 15:32:39 GMT en hourly 1 How to grow and care for nasturtiums https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-nasturtiums/ Wed, 27 May 2026 14:34:28 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-nasturtiums/ All you need to know about sowing and growing nasturtiums, in our expert Grow Guide. Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum) are one of the quickest and easiest annuals to grow. They produce masses of vividly coloured blooms from midsummer right through to the first autumn frosts in a surprisingly wide range of colours – not just orange, yellow and red but also cream, salmon pink, burgundy and crimson (and often a mix of several of these). Some have attractively marbled or mottled leaves, too.
Nasturtiums are either bushy or dwarf (Tropaeolum minus) or climbers (Tropaeolum majus). Bushy varieties look great in containers and hanging baskets or at the front of a border, while climbing varieties can be trained up wigwams or obelisks and will twine through other plants. These can also be used as ground cover, spreading across gravel or cascading down a slope or bank. Both types grow very well in pots.
Nasturtiums not only look spectacular but the flowers, leaves and seeds are edible, too. They also make good companion plants on the veg patch – the caterpillars of large and small white butterflies feed on the leaves, luring them away from brassicas. Bees love the flowers. Nasturtiums are incredibly easy to grow from seed, making them ideal for beginner gardeners and children. They also make good cut flowers.
Where to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums need sunshine for at least half the day in order to grow well. A free-draining soil is essential; nasturtiums flower best on poor soils. Fertile soil results in lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers and flowers that are buried beneath the foliage.
Grow nasturtiums at the front of a border, up an obelisk, as companion planting on the veg patch or spilling over the edge of raised beds and pots.
Where to buy nasturtium seeds online
When to sow nasturtium
Sow nasturtium seeds under cover from March and outside when the soil has warmed up, from March to May – a late sowing will ensure flowers until the first frosts.
How to sow nasturtium seeds
Sowing nasturtiums in the ground
You can sow nasturtium seeds directly where they are to flower.
- Rake the soil to a fine tilth and make sure it is free of weeds. Water the area before you sow – this will ensure that you don't wash away the seeds once sown
- Sow the seeds 1.5cm deep, around 10cm apart – either push them in with your finger, or use a bamboo cane to make a shallow drill
- Cover the seeds with soil
- Once the seedlings emerge (after about two weeks) thin them to around 30cm apart
You can also simply pop seeds around the garden, where you'd like them to appear – around the edge of raised beds or large pots of bedding, for example.
Sowing nasturtiums in pots
You can also sow nasturtium seeds in pots – this is a good way to get earlier flowers and is a good option if you want to plant up a beautiful container display later in the season. Simply sow one seed per 9cm pot in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill, harden off and plant outside in late spring.
Read our detailed advice on how to sow annual climbers.
How to plant out nasturtiums
If you haven't grown your own plants from seed, you might find small pots of nasturtiums at the garden centre in late spring or early summer that are ready for planting out.
Planting nasturtiums in the ground
Dig a hole that is the same size as the pot your plant was growing in, and plant so that the crown of leaves is at soil level. Water in well.
Planting nasturtiums in containers
Mix two-thirds peat-free multipurpose compost with one third fine gravel or grit, to reduce fertility and ensure good drainage. Again, plant so that the crown of leaves is at soil level and water in well.
In this clip from Gardeners' World, Monty Don arranges plants for a late summer display, with a dramatic purple-leaved Phormium cookianum 'Black Adder' in the centre, lots of magenta-flowered Cosmos bipinnatus 'Dazzler', and four Bidens 'Hawaiian Flare Orange Drop' cascading over the rim, alongside trailing nasturtiums, Tropaeolum majus 'Cherry Rose Jewel'. He also advises on aftercare to keep the display at peak flowering through to late autumn:
View Green Video on the source website
How to care for nasturtium
Nasturtiums are easy to care for and need little maintenance. Plants growing in the ground rarely need watering. Plants growing in containers should be watered to keep the compost evenly moist, but don't feed them. Deadheading will encourage more blooms over a longer period.
Harvesting and storage
Nasturtium leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible. The flowers and young leaves have a peppery taste (nasturtiums are closely related to watercress) and are a great addition to salads. The seed pods can be used as a substitute for capers (they are known as 'poor man's capers'). Pick them when mature but still green, and pickle them in vinegar.
You can collect nasturtium seeds when they're ripe and save them somewhere cool and dry to sow next year. In mild areas, nasturtiums are also likely to self-sow, so you may get seedlings springing up in future years. These can be easily pulled up if not wanted.
Our friends at olive magazine have a range of recipes that incorporate nasturtiums, including pickled vegetables with salted yogurt and pressed tomatoes with whipped goat’s cheese and lovage oil.
Growing nasturtiums: problem solving
Nasturtiums are likely to attract large and small white butterflies (known as cabbage white butterflies) which lay their large greenish eggs on the leaf undersides, which hatch into caterpillars that eat the leaves. This can be useful to deter caterpillars from eating brassica crops but not desirable if you’re growing nasturtiums for flowers. The best method of control is to inspect plants regularly and squash the eggs or young caterpillars, or move them on to plants you don't mind being eaten.
Nasturtiums are also attractive to aphids, particularly blackfly. Again, by planting nasturtiums alongside bean crops you can lure aphids away from your crop, but you may not appreciate aphids on nasturtiums you're growing for leaves and flowers. Spray them off with a jet of water or let ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings remove them for you – all three lay their eggs on aphid colonies and their young quickly eat them up.
Advice on buying nasturtiums
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Nasturtium seeds are widely available at garden centres and online; for the best selection, look online
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Choose from bushy or climbing types
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Young plants are available at garden centres in late spring
Where to buy nasturtium seeds online
Frequently asked questions
Do nasturtiums grow back every year?
Nasturtiums are annual and don't survive winter frosts. However they self seed readily so should grow next year if allowed to develop seed.
What should you not plant next to nasturtiums?
Some gardeners suggest avoiding planting nasturtiums next to brassicas, but this can be useful as you can transfer small and large white caterpillars from the brassicas to the nasturtiums.
Nasturtium varieties to grow
Nasturtium 'Black Velvet'
Tropaeolum minus 'Black Velvet' is a compact nasturtium with velvety dark red flowers. H x S: 30cm x 45cm
Nasturtium 'Phoenix'
Tropaeolum minus 'Phoenix' has flowers with unusual split petals, in shades red, orange and yellow. A bushy variety. Height x Spread: 30cm x 30cm
Nasturtium 'Empress of India'
Nasturtium minus ‘Empress of India’ is a bushy nasturtium with crimson-red flowers and dark leaves. H x S: 25cm x 45cm. 'Princess of India' is a dwarf version.
Nasturtium 'Orange Troika'
Tropaeolum majus 'Orange Troika' is a climbing or trailing variety with vivid orange flowers and marbled foliage. H x S: 30cm x 1.5m
Nasturtium 'Alaska Series'
Nasturtium minus ‘Alaska Series’ produces flowers in yellow, cream, orange and red, shown off against cream and green marbled leaves. Bushy. H x S: 25cm x 45cm.
Nasturtium 'Ladybird'
Tropaeolum minus 'Ladybird' has pretty cream/yellow flowers with deep red spots at the throat. H x S: 30cm x 40cm
Nasturtium 'Baby Deep Rose'
Tropaeolum minus 'Baby Deep Rose' is a compact, bushy variety with deep crimson blooms. H x S: 20cm x 20cm
Nasturtium 'Bloody Mary'
Tropaeolum minus 'Bloody Mary' has splotched and striped flowers in shades deep red, yellow and cream. H x S: 30cm x 60cm
]]> How to grow cosmos https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-cosmos/ Wed, 27 May 2026 09:52:21 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-cosmos/ Find out all you need to know about growing cosmos, from sowing to planting in this easy Grow Guide. This article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
Cosmos are sun-loving plants with a long flowering season, from May to September. They fill borders with a profusion of flowers, ranging in colour from white through to pink, red and orange, and they have masses of feathery foliage. Cosmos is considered a birth flower for October, and is associated with order and balance.
Shorter varieties look good in containers and all cosmos make fantastic cut flowers. Their simple open flowers are guaranteed to brighten up any garden well into autumn - and pollinators like them just as much as gardeners do.
There are both annual and perennial types of cosmos but they are both grown as hardy annuals in the UK as they don't survive our winters. However, if you leave them to develop seeds, they will self-seed around the garden or you can collect seed to sow the following spring.
Where to grow cosmos
Cosmos are native to Southern and Central America, so need to be planted in a warm, sunny spot, in free-draining soil. It works well when planted into gaps in a sunny border, and can also be grown in pots.
How to plant cosmos
Sow cosmos seeds in early spring directly into the soil where you want them to grow, or into small pots or modules filled with free-draining seed compost. If growing in pots, pot on seedlings when they are large enough to handle. Plant out in late April, May or early June after the danger of frost has passed.
Watch this video, below, to see Monty Don plant out cosmos for a long summer display.
View Green Video on the source website
How to care for cosmos
Once your seedlings have formed 2-3 pairs of leaves, pinch out the growing tips to produce bushier plants with more flowers.
Taller varieties may need staking, otherwise all varieties will flower for a long period if deadheaded regularly. When deadheading, cut the stem back to the first leaf beneath the flower.
The tender perennial chocolate cosmos varieties will need winter protection. Grow them in pots, then when they've finished flowering shelter them over winter in a frost-free place until spring.
In the video below, Monty Don explains how deadheading spent flowers will keep them blooming for as long as possible.
View Green Video on the source website
How to propagate cosmos
You can collect seeds from flowering cosmos and save them for sowing next year. Or if you're growing chocolate cosmos, divide the tubers when you lift the plants for storage over winter.
Pests and diseases
Cosmos are pretty much trouble-free to grow, apart from the threat of slugs and snails when the seedlings are young. You may find aphids on new growth in spring and summer – these are usually fine to leave as ladybirds and other predators will find them.
Great cosmos varieties to grow
- Cosmos Sea Shells – with pale, fluted petals – looking like a sea shell – it's a great planting partner for dark-flowered dahlias and chrysanthemums
- Cosmos bipinnatus Sonata White – a compact cosmos, good for growing in containers. Masses of pure-white, single, saucer-shaped flowers appear throughout summer
- Cosmos bipinnatus Fizzy Pink – with strong flower colours from white to carmine, this variety is good for cutting or growing in pots
- Cosmos 'Gazebo Red' – a medium-sized, bushy, early-flowering variety of cosmos, with large, velvety red blooms
- Cosmos atrosanguineus – the chocolate cosmos is a tender perennial from Mexico. The dark cocoa-coloured flowers have a faint scent of vanilla and chocolate. It grows from tubers, unlike other cosmos, and should be treated like a dahlia or canna lily, lifting to overwinter indoors or mulched heavily in autumn.
Frequently asked questions
My cosmos are very tall and sturdy, so why do they have no flowers?
If your cosmos are tall, strong and bushy but without blooms, they may have been overfed with nitrogen-based fertiliser or grown in soil that is too fertile. This can cause cosmos to grow foliage at the expense of flowers. Cosmos flower best when planted in full sun and in free-draining, average garden soil. Plants in shade will also struggle to flower. Pinching out cosmos plants should lead to more blooms.
When do I pinch out my cosmos?
The best time to pinch out the tops of cosmos seedlings is when they have grown three sets of true leaves (fern-like leaves). This will encourage plants to branch out and become bushier. It should also lead to more flower production.
My cosmos are leggy. How do I prick them out?
Don’t sow cosmos too early in the year, when sunlight is weak, and make sure they get plenty of light to avoid leggy growth. But if your cosmos seedlings have already become leggy, don’t worry. Just prick out and pot on into a slightly larger container, planting the seedlings a little deeper than they were. If you haven’t already pinched out the tops, do that now to encourage bushier growth.
]]> How to grow and care for honeysuckle https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-honeysuckle/ Sun, 17 May 2026 09:24:24 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-honeysuckle/ Learn how to plant, propagate and prune shrubby and climbing honeysuckles, in our expert Grow Guide. This article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
Most of us think of honeysuckles as twining climbers with pretty, scented tubular flowers, perfect for covering walls, fences and pergolas. But there are also evergreen, shrubby types that make an excellent honeysuckle bush, hedging or topiary. Both belong to the genus Lonicera and there are many different cultivars, hailing from Europe, Asia, the Mediterranean and North America. Lonicera periclymenum (wild honeysuckle, common honeysuckle or woodbine) is native to the UK.
Climbing honeysuckles flower in summer, in shades of white, cream, lemon yellow, pink, orange and raspberry red. They're perfect plants for an informal or cottage garden style, and look good combined with roses for a romantic display. They are also a magnet for wildlife. The scent of their nectar-rich flowers attracts bees and butterflies during the day and moths at night – their colour changes slightly once pollinated. The red berries that follow are enjoyed by birds (but are poisonous to humans).
Climbing honeysuckles can be deciduous, semi-evergreen or evergreen, depending on the variety. Deciduous species tend to have a more spectacular display of flowers; the evergreen honeysuckle types bear smaller, less significant blooms but give foliage cover all year round.
Shrubby honeysuckles can be deciduous, semi-evergreen or fully evergreen. Evergreen types such as Lonicera nitida (now renamed as Lonicera ligustrina var. yunnanensis) have small leaves that are similar to those of box, and are often used to create a honeysuckle bush or hedge – even topiary. If you have had problems with box blight or box tree caterpillar on your box plants, Lonicera nitida makes a sensible alternative. Lonicera fragrantissima and Lonicera x purpusii are deciduous to semi-evergreen, and bear deliciously scented flowers in winter.
Jump to...
- Planting honeysuckle
- Caring for honeysuckle
- Pruning honeysuckle
- How to propagate honeysuckle
- Growing honeysuckle: problem-solving
- Buying honeysuckle
- Best honeysuckle to grow
Where to grow honeysuckle
All honeysuckles will grow in most soil types but prefer a fairly free-draining, humus-rich soil.
Climbing honeysuckles
Climbing honeysuckles are mostly woodland and hedgerow plants, so have evolved with their roots shaded by trees and shrubs, and their climbing tendrils growing into the light. Mimic these growing conditions if you can – climbing honeysuckles do better when their roots are in shade and their stems can reach sunlight.
The scent of climbing honeysuckle is stronger when plants are grown in a warm spot. A new variety, 'Strawberries and Cream', is low growing and more suitable for pots.
Shrubby honeysuckles
Shrubby honeysuckles such as winter honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima and Lonicera nitida will grow in full sun or partial shade.
When to plant honeysuckle
You can plant climbing honeysuckles all year round, but it's best to avoid planting in summer as the hot, dry conditions can lead to plant stress, or when the ground is frozen in winter. Deciduous honeysuckles are best planted in late winter.
How to plant honeysuckle
Honeysuckles have deep roots and need moisture-retentive soil, so are best planted in the ground, rather than pots. When planting any honeysuckle, dig in some well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost or well rotted manure, into the soil before planting. Dig a hole that is the same size as the rootball, and plant at the same depth as the plant was in the pot. Firm in wall, water deeply and finally mulch with organic matter to help with water retention.
Climbing honeysuckles will twine around supports but require a helping hand when young. If you're growing one against a wall or fence, put up some galvanised wires and lead the plant to these by guiding the stems with a bamboo cane, or tie them in to a support.
Many shrubby honeysuckles can be planted as cheaper, bare-root plants in autumn or winter. For a dense hedge, plant five small plants per metre.
Where to buy honeysuckle online
How to care for honeysuckle
Water all honeysuckles in dry spells in summer. Feed with a general-purpose fertiliser in spring to promote good growth and plenty of flowers.
Beware of the 'rain shadow' that can occur at the base of walls and fences, where rain doesn't reach the soil. Mulching around the base of climbing honeysuckles in spring with well-rotted manure or garden compost can help to retain moisture.
How to prune honeysuckle
Honeysuckle pruning depends on the type of honeysuckle you are growing - climbing or shrubby.
Climbing honeysuckles
Those that flower early in the summer should be pruned after flowering. Cut back by about one third to maintain a neat shape. Don't remove the dying flowerheads as these will become berries. Those that flower later in the summer should be pruned lightly in spring. These flower on the current season’s growth, so don't cut back too hard or you'll risk losing the flowers.
If your climbing honeysuckle is overgrown, renovate it in late winter by cutting it back hard. In this vintage clip from Gardeners' World, below, Joe Swift demonstrates how to prune honeysuckle growing on an obelisk.
View Green Video on the source website
Shrubby honeysuckles
Deciduous shrubby honeysuckles can be pruned after flowering in late spring or summer. If your plant is very overgrown, you can cut it back hard in late winter or early spring.
In this clip from Gardeners' World, below, Monty Don prunes a winter-flowering honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima, showing where and how much to cut in order to generate new shoots that will carry fragrant blooms next winter and early spring.
View Green Video on the source website
Evergreen shrubby honeysuckles such as Lonicera nitida, can be pruned in summer.
How to propagate honeysuckle
You can propagate honeysuckle by taking semi-ripe cuttings in July and August, when the wood of new stems is flexible but firm. In this video guide, Alan Titchmarsh demonstrates how to take cuttings from honeysuckle, to make new honeysuckle plants for free.
View Green Video on the source website
You can also propagate climbing honeysuckles by layering – bending a shoot down to soil level and encouraging it to root.
Climbing honeysuckles can be propagated from their berries. Extract the seeds from the berries and sow them straight away in pots of loamy compost. Leave the seeds in a cold frame over winter – they need an extended period of cold – and they should start to germinate in spring once temperatures rise to around 15°C.
Pests and diseases
Honeysuckle aphid can be a real problem for climbing honeysuckles. Leaves become distorted and curled as the sucking insects feed on the plant. The aphids excrete honeydew, which then leads to sooty mould. Plants that are in poor health are more prone to infestation. Prune out very badly infested shoots, or apply an organic insecticide as a last resort. Plants are less prone to aphid attack if they are grown in partial shade.
Honeysuckles can also be prone to powdery mildew – again, growing in partial shade can help prevent this, as can mulching around the base in spring.
What can I do to stop my honeysuckle leaves turning yellow and falling off?
Yellowing and falling leaves can indicate nutrient deficiency or simply a lack of water. Give your honeysuckle a good drink and feed with a liquid seaweed fertiliser or balanced organic plant food, and it should perk up.
If your honeysuckle stops flowering, there are a few things you can do to encourage flowers, as Alan Titchmarsh explains in the video below.
View Green Video on the source website
Advice on buying honeysuckle
- There's a wide range of honeysuckles to grow, including climbers and shrubby plants that are deciduous or evergreen. Make sure you choose the right one for your garden
- Bear in mind that specialist nurseries may offer more choice than garden centres
- Always check your plants for signs of disease and damage before buying or, if you bought them online, before planting
Honeysuckle varieties to grow
Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina'
Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina' is a vigorous, deciduous honeysuckle climber with scented, creamy-white flowers that are streaked with raspberry red. It holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). Height x Spread: 7m x 3.5m
Lonicera periclymenum 'Scentsation'
Lonicera periclymenum 'Scentsation', as its name suggests, has strongly scented flowers in shades of white and pale yellow, from midsummer to September. H x S: 7m x 1m
Lonicera 'Mandarin'
Lonicera 'Mandarin' is a new variety with striking but unscented orange flowers from June to August. It is a vigorous, deciduous climber. The new foliage is a rich-bronze colour, before maturing to deep green. It holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 6m x 2m
Lonicera japonica 'Halliana'
Lonicera japonica 'Halliana' is a vigorous evergreen honeysuckle that bears scented yellow and white flowers in summer. It has the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). It has a tendency to become invasive in certain situations. Lonicera japonica is considered an invasive non-native plant in Northern Ireland, where it's an offense to plant or cause it to grow in the wild. H x S: 3m x 4.5m
Lonicera periclymenum 'Rhubarb and Custard'
Lonicera periclymenum 'Rhubarb and Custard' is an attractive and compact deciduous climber with large, scented flowers. As the name suggests, these are custard-yellow tinged with rhubarb pink. Suitable for smaller gardens. H x S: 2m x 1.5m
Lonicera periclymenum 'Strawberries and Cream'
A new delightful, compact variety that doesn't climb, but forms a neat mounded shape. Its flowers, as its name suggests, are pink and pale yellow. It's perfect for growing at the front of a border and is ideal for pots. H x S: 60cm x 60cm
Lonicera periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’
Lonicera periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’ is a deciduous climbing honeysuckle with highly scented flowers from July to September; they start out white and turn butter yellow. It holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 7m x 1m
Lonicera fragrantissima
Lonicera fragrantissima is known as the winter honeysuckle as it bears white, highly scented flowers on the leafless branches from January to March. This deciduous shrub is fully hardy. H x S: 2m x 3m
Lonicera x purpusii 'Winter Beauty'
Lonicera x purpusii ‘Winter Beauty’ is one of the best winter-flowering shrubby honeysuckles, bearing sweetly fragrant creamy-white flowers on bare stems, from late winter. It makes an attractive spreading deciduous shrub. It holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 3m x 2m
Lonicera pileata
Lonicera pileata (box-leaved honeysuckle) is a dense evergreen shrub with small, box-like leaves, ideal for topiary or a dense, low-growing hedge. It bears small, creamy-white flowers in spring and purple berries in autumn. It is a good alternative to box if box blight or box tree caterpillar is a problem. H x S: 1m x 2.5m
Frequently asked questions
My honeysuckle has mildew - what can I do?
Honeysuckles are woodland plants that thrive in partial shade, ideally with their roots in shade and leaves in sunshine for half of the day. Powdery mildew often occurs when the roots become dry and could indicate that your honeysuckle is struggling.
Rather than spray the mildew with a fungicide, it's best to tackle the cause of the problem: dry roots. Keep your honeysuckle well watered during summer and mulch annually with bark chippings or homemade compost so the soil retains as much moisture as possible. You may also consider adding a piece of crock around the roots to further prevent evaporation from the soil, as you might with clematis. This should solve the problem immediately.
Why doesn't my honeysuckle have any scent?
Although honeysuckles are known for their strong fragrance, not all of them are scented (for example, Lonicera × tellmanniana), so it's important to check the label before buying. If you have a scented honeysuckle that's not producing any fragrance, then give the plant a good drink as moist soil and warm conditions are said to bring on the best fragrance of scented plants. Bear in mind that honeysuckles have evolved to be pollinated by moths so are more scented at night. So, if you are checking your flowers by day, check them again at dusk – you may find they smell more strongly in the evening.
How can I grow honeysuckle up a fence?
Climbing honeysuckles are not self-clinging, so need to be tied to a support, such as a trellis or series of tension wires fixed to the fence using vine eyes. It's a good idea to paint the fence before training climbers to grow up it, as it can be tricky to paint behind existing plants. If using tension wires, fix them both horizontally and vertically, so there is plenty of wire to tie the honeysuckle stems into.
]]> How to grow sweet peas https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-sweet-peas/ Tue, 21 Apr 2026 09:40:11 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-sweet-peas/ All you need to know about sowing and growing fragrant sweet peas, in our practical Grow Guide. Perfect for picking, fragrant sweet peas are easy to grow and come in a range of beautiful colours. You can grow them in pots or in the ground, training them up a frame for a beautiful display. Plant sweet peas near a seating area so you can smell them as you sit and relax in the garden. Or pick some for the vase – even a small amount can fill a room with fragrance.
Jump to...
- Where to grow sweet peas
- Sowing sweet peas
- How to care for sweet peas
- How to propagate sweet peas
- Pests and diseases
- Where to buy sweet peas
- Types of sweet peas to grow
Where to grow sweet peas
Plant sweet peas in an open, sunny position in a well-drained but moisture-retentive soil. Sweet peas are well suited to growing in pots – make sure you use a good, peat-free compost with a slow-release fertiliser mixed in.
When to sow sweet peas
You can sow sweet peas anytime from October to April. Those sown in autumn will enter dormancy in winter and then start into growth again when temperatures warm up in spring. They will flower sooner than spring-sown sweet peas. For a long display, sow successionally from autumn to spring, so you have sweet peas flowering from May through to August.
How to sow sweet peas
Sweet peas are easy to grow from seed in either autumn or spring. If sowing in autumn ensure you have the room to grow them on in a frost-free place until spring.
Sweet pea seeds germinate relatively easily. But you can help activate germination by nicking the seed coat with a knife, avoiding the 'eye' area. Either sow seed in 9cm pots (3 to a pot), in root trainers or trays. Sow the seed in a good quality, peat-free compost, and place in a cold frame or greenhouse.
When to plant out sweet peas
Plant out your sweet peas from late May, once all risk of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by putting them out in the day and returning them to a frost-free place at night. Pinch out the tips of young sweet pea plants when they reach about 10cm tall, to encourage bushy growth.
You can buy sweet pea plug plants in spring. Plant them in fertile soil beneath a support, such as a wigwam made of bamboo canes. Most sweet peas will grow to about 2m in height. Water in well until they’ve put on good growth. Space sweet pea plugs or pots about 20cm apart - don't worry about separating individual plants.
Watch Monty as he plants out sweet peas and explains how to plant out shop-bought plants. Learn why it's best to plant them out only once the soil has warmed up, and the benefits of giving them a good drink after planting:
View Green Video on the source website
Where to buy sweet peas online
How to care for sweet peas
Sweet peas require training up a suitable support and can be grown as cordons. They don't need pruning but if there are wayward stems that can't be trained up a support, you may want to trim them back.
Watch David Hurrion's No Fuss video guide to tying in sweet peas:
View Green Video on the source website
Start feeding with a high potash fertiliser, such as tomato food, when flowers appear. Regular picking will encourage more flowers and prevent plants from setting seed. Water sweet peas growing in pots, and during very dry weather.
Find out how to prolong your sweet pea crops, in Monty Don's practical video. Monty explains how picking at regular intervals will keep your plants flowering right through summer and into September. You'll also have a steady supply of cut flowers for the house:
View Green Video on the source website
How to propagate sweet peas
Sweet peas are easy to propagate from seed but there's no guarantee they will come true to type – they may flower in a different colour or have a different fragrance from the variety originally grown. Some pure-bred types will bear similarities to their parent plants, while F1 types will look markedly different. Still, it's fun to save seed and see what you get.
To save sweet pea seed, leave the seed pods on the plants until they have turned brown. Collect them on a dry day, remove them from their pods and store in paper bags in a dry place until you a ready to sow them.
How to take sweet pea cuttings
Sweet peas will root from cuttings taken from young plants, and grow on to produce identical plants that flower a few weeks later than the parent plant. Simply take a 10-12cm cutting from a plant with about six pairs of leaves, just above a pair of leaves. Dip each cutting in rooting hormone and then place in water to develop roots. After about a fortnight, the rooted cuttings can be planted into peat-free, multi-purpose compost. Plant them out once established.
Pests and diseases
Young sweet pea plants are prone to slug and snail damage. Try using beer traps, copper bands, or nematodes to control them.
Sweet peas can sometimes become leggy. Here, David Hurrion explains how to save them:
View Green Video on the source website
Advice on buying sweet peas
- Bear in mind that some sweet peas have a stronger fragrance than others. If you're keen on scent, check the variety to make sure it won't disappoint.
- Buy a mix of colours to grow together – different coloured sweet peas make the best looking posies.
- Check the height and spread of your sweet pea vareity, and how much support it needs to grow. Knowing how to care for your sweet peas before they arrive will stand you in good stead for a brilliant sweet pea harvest.
Where to buy sweet peas online
Great sweet pea varieties to grow
- Lathyrus vernus ‘Alboroseus’ – a hardy perennial bush-forming sweet pea that has tiny pink and white flowers in April. Reaches 35cm in height and spread
- Lathyrus latifolius ‘White Pearl’ – perennial climber with pure-white flowers from June to late August. Reaches a height of 2m
- Lathyrus odoratus ‘Matucana’ – hardy annual that is hugely popular and fondly known as the old-fashioned sweet pea. It has scented two-tone purple flowers in summer and is ideal for picking
- Lathyrys odoratus 'Lipstick' (pictured) - a wavy-edged, Spencer type with good scent
- Lathyrus odoratus ‘Lord Nelson’ – hardy annual grown for picking. Blue flowers with a highly rated scent in summer. Plants reach 2m
- Lathyrus odoratus ‘Painted Lady’ – hardy annual grown for picking. Bi-coloured blooms of pale and dark pink. Highly scented old-fashioned type. Great for early flowers
Frequently asked questions
Why are the leaves on my sweetpeas turning yellow?
Yellowing sweet pea leaves are usually caused by over-watering. On dull days, plants don't need watering every day as this can cause root rot. Your sweet peas may be salvagable – stop watering immediately and ensure they're not sitting in any water. Then, if plants recover, start watering again, gradually, checking the compost first to make sure it's not still moist.
Help! My sweet peas are leggy!
Leggy sweet peas are usually the result of too little light. If you can, move them to a brighter spot, and turn the pots regularly so the plants don't lean too much in one direction. Once plants are 10-15cm tall, use your thumb and forefinger to pinch out the tips. This will encourage bushy growth and should stop them being leggy.
Do sweet peas trail well?
Sweet peas are climbing plants and therefore don't trail well. If you try to grow sweet peas in a hanging basket you may find that they trail a little but then stop growing, or will put on growth towards the base, rather than at the tips. Some dwarf or patio varieties of sweet pea are said to trail better than conventional types, and could be worth a try.
]]> From bag to bumper crop - how to grow potatoes anywhere https://www.gardenersworld.com/news/from-bag-to-bumper-crop-how-to-grow-potatoes-anywhere/ Thu, 12 Mar 2026 10:44:35 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/news/from-bag-to-bumper-crop-how-to-grow-potatoes-anywhere/ Find out all you need to know about growing potatoes, in our practical Grow Guide. This article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
From earthy new potatoes and bite-sized salad varieties, to floury bakers and roasters, the humble potato remains the nation’s favourite vegetable. If you’re a potato aficionado, there's a huge number of exciting potato varieties you can grow that you’ll never see in the shops. You don't even need a garden to grow them – many grow very happily in large bags or pots on a balcony or patio.
There are three main types of potato to grow, named according to when you plant and harvest them.
First early or ‘new’ potatoes are the earliest to crop, in June and July. They don't store for long so are best eaten fresh.
Second earlies (also called ‘new’ potatoes) take a few more weeks to mature and are harvested in July and August. These also don't store for long, so are best eaten fresh.
Maincrop potatoes take the longest to mature and are harvested from August to October. They are suitable for baking, roasting and mashing, and can be stored for a few months.
How to grow potatoes at home
Potatoes are easy to grow – one seed potato will produce many potatoes to harvest. Prepare the soil by digging and removing weeds, and then dig straight trenches 12cm deep and 60cm apart. In spring, plant seed potatoes 30cm apart and cover them with soil to fill the trench. When the shoots reach 20cm tall, use a rake, hoe or spade to mound soil up around the bases of the shoots, covering the stems half way. This is called earthing up. You can also grow first early and second early potatoes in a large bag on a patio or balcony, regularly covering the bottoms of stems with more compost as they grow.
More expert advice on growing potatoes:
- Potato types explained
- Grow great jacket potatoes
- 10 best salad potatoes to grow
- Maincrop potatoes to grow
- How to grow potatoes in a bag
- Should you delay planting potatoes after wet weather?
Growing potatoes: jump links
- Planting potatoes
- Caring for potatoes
- Growing potatoes: problem-solving
- Harvesting potatoes
- Eating and storing potatoes
- Where to buy potatoes
- Potato varieties to grow
When to plant potatoes
First early potatoes can be planted from mid-March, while second earlies should be planted a couple of weeks later. Maincrop potatoes are usually planted in late April or early May and need to stay in the ground longer to produce a good crop. However, planting times vary across the country – planting in northerly areas should be delayed by a couple of weeks, depending on temperatures and risk of frost.
If you have a greenhouse it's possible to plant a second batch of potatoes in late summer, which will yield a crop for Christmas Day.
How to chit potatoes
Before planting, many people 'chit' their early potatoes. This involves letting the potatoes grow short, strong, stubby shoots, which will allow them to start growing more quickly after planting. Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the end that has the most eyes uppermost. Stand in a cool, light spot until short shoots have formed, or when it's time to plant them out.
Should I rub shoots off my chitted potatoes?
Seed potatoes only need one or two shoots to grow, so if you've chitted your seed potatoes and they have more shoots, you can just rub off any extras with your fingers. Our video guide explains more about whether or not to rub extra shoots off your chitted potatoes.
View Green Video on the source website
How to plant potatoes
You can grow your own potatoes by planting out 'seed potatoes', which are small tubers rather than actual seeds. You can buy seed potatoes from late winter. Don't be tempted to use old potatoes from the veg rack as they won't produce reliable crops.
Home-grown potatoes do well in all types of soil, but the richer the better, so dig in plenty of well-rotted organic matter such as garden compost. An open, sunny site is best.
While maincrop potatoes grow well in the ground, early or salad potatoes will also do well in large pots and bags. Polypropylene potato growing bags are designed especially for this purpose and are handy if you're short of space. However, you can also plant potatoes in an old compost bag, with similar results.
Here, Monty explains how to grow potatoes in a bag:
View Green Video on the source website
When growing potatoes in the ground, plant earlies and salad types 10-15cm deep and 30cm apart, with 60cm between rows. Maincrop potatoes require more space to produce a decent crop. Plant them 40cm apart, with 75cm between rows. Plant potatoes with the shoots (or 'eyes') facing upwards.
Growing potatoes in a raised bed? Monty shows you how:
View Green Video on the source website
Where to buy potatoes online
Growing potatoes: caring for your crop
Water potatoes during warm, dry spells but avoid wetting the foliage unnecessarily, and keep the soil free of weeds. As the potato plants grow, use a spade or hoe to cover the shoots with soil to encourage the development of more tubers from the buried stems. This is called ‘earthing up’. Leave the top few centimetres poking out the top. As plants continue to grow you will need to earth them up again.
Watch Monty explain how to earth up potatoes growing in a bag:
View Green Video on the source website
Growing potatoes: problem-solving
Slugs can be a problem, especially if growing potatoes under black plastic.
Potato blight is a fungal disease which turns foliage yellow with dark patches and causes the tubers to rot. Grow a blight-resistant potato variety to avoid the problem. You can also cut the potato plants down at the first sign of infection, as the fungus will not have reached the tubers by that stage. Then harvest the tubers as soon as you can.
Never grow potatoes in the same soil year after year as this could lead to a build up of pests and diseases. These include potato eelworm, which causes stunted growth and poor cropping.
When to harvest potatoes
First early potatoes are harvested in June and July, when the potatoes are about the size of a large hen’s egg (gently rummage around in the soil to check). Cut the potato plants (also known as haulms) to the ground, then gently prise the plants out of the ground with a fork. First early potatoes don't store well, so dig them up in batches, as and when you want to eat them.
Second earlies are harvested in July and early August. Harvest in the same way as first earlies. Again, these potatoes don't store well, so dig them up in batches, as and when you want to eat them.
Maincrop potatoes are harvested from August to October, when the leaves on the plants have turned yellow and died down. Choose a dry day to dig up your crop so that they store better, ideally in the morning. Cut the plants to the ground and dig up your potatoes, discarding any that are bruised or have been attacked by pests. Leave them on the soil surface for a few hours in the sun to dry out properly, then brush off any soil before bagging them up.
Watch Monty Don's video guide to harvesting new potatoes:
View Green Video on the source website
To harvest potatoes grown in pots, simply tip out the contents and enjoy the rich – and easy – pickings.
Here Monty explains how to harvest potatoes grown in a bag:
View Green Video on the source website
Preparing and cooking potatoes
Wash and scrub potatoes before frying, boiling, baking, mashing, roasting or sautéeing – this has to be the most versatile vegetable!
Health note: never eat potatoes raw. Green potatoes contain a chemical called solanine, which they develop when exposed to light. It can cause severe stomach upsets.
Looking for inspiration on how to use your crop? Our friends at olive have curated a delicious collection of potato recipes, including their best-ever roast potatoes. And listen to our podcast episode, where Adam Frost and Good Food's Cassie Best share advice on growing and cooking potatoes:
View oEmbed on the source website
Storing potatoes
Home-grown maincrop potatoes will store well for many months in a cool but frost-free place. Only store perfect tubers, removing any showing signs of damage, and don’t wash them before storage. All light must be excluded to avoid potatoes turning green and poisonous. Hessian or thick brown-paper sacks are available for the job. Check crops in store regularly, removing any rotten ones.
Watch Kevin Smith explain how to prevent stored potatoes from rotting, in our Quick Tips video:
View Green Video on the source website
Advice on buying potatoes
- Potatoes are available from a range of garden centres and nurseries, with many offering online sales. If you're a member of an allotment association, you may be able to buy potatoes direct from the 'allotment shop' at a reduced price
- Choose between first earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes, depending on when you want to to eat your potatoes and if you have a problem with blight (first and second earlies are usually harvested before blight hits)
- Check the seed potatoes thoroughly when they arrive/before you buy. Make sure they're firm and avoid any with very long roots or any with signs of mould
Where to buy seed potatoes online
- Buy early seed potatoes from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
- Buy second early seed potatoes from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
- Buy maincrop seed potatoes from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
- Buy late-maincrop seed potatoes from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
Growing potatoes: potato varieties to grow
Early potatoes:
- 'Annabelle' – compact, small tubers with white skins and golden flesh. Disease resistant.
- 'Charlotte' – yellow skin and flesh, with a lovely flavour. Remains firm when cooked. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons.
Salad potatoes:
- 'Cherie' – delicious red-skinned salad variety with waxy flesh.
- 'Milva' – yellow flesh, perfect for boiling. Good yields.
- 'Pink Fir Apple' – an odd shape, but good flavour. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons.
Maincrop potatoes:
- 'Blue Danube' – with purple skin and white flesh, this new variety is resistant to blight.
- 'Cara' - round, waxy and drought resistant, it bakes well. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons.
- 'Isle of Jura' - an excellent all-rounder, with large crops from late summer. Disease resistant.
- 'Nicola' - yellow skin and flesh, small, oval tubers, sweet flavour. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons.
- 'Setanta' - drought tolerant and great for roasting and baking.
You could also try growing your own sweet potatoes, which although they are not really potatoes at all, are an excellent crop to grow in a more ornamental garden or a conservatory. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
Frequently asked questions
Help! My potato leaves have brown spots Brown spots on potato leaves could be caused by a number of things, including magnesium deficiency, early blight (caused by Alternaria fungi) or potato blight (also known as late blight), Phytopthera infestens. Magnesium deficiency can be more common on light and sandy soils, and is remedied with a foliar feed of Epsom salts. Early blight isn't a big problem in the UK and is more common in North America. Both early and late blight can devastate potato crops – remove all foliage immediately and harvest the potatoes quickly to stop the disease reaching the tubers. Help! My seed potatoes are sprouting and have gone soft Sprouting seed potatoes is perfectly normal, and is actually encouraged – the act of potato chitting is done to encourage sprouts to develop, which is thought to increase potato yields. Slightly soft seed potatoes are usually nothing to worry about but really soft tubers may be mouldy. Check your seed potatoes thoroughly before planting and discard any with sunken or white patches, as these are rotting and could infect your other potatoes. What can I plant immediately after harvesting potatoes? If you want to make the most of soil vacated by harvesting potatoes, you can plant a number of crops in their place, including carrots, leeks and brassicas. If you're practising good crop rotation then brassicas usually follow potatoes. If you don't have plants ready to plant out, see what young plants are available from the garden centre – many have broccoli, cabbage, kale and swede plants ready to plant straight away. Is it possible to save potatoes for seed next year? It is possible to save potatoes for seed the following year, but you run the risk of transmitting disease. Seed potatoes are grown in a cool, controlled environment, so are certified disease-free. If you want to save your own potatoes for seed, keep them in a cool, dark spot. In late winter they should develop shoots and you can plant them as you would normal seed potatoes, from late March.
]]> How to grow mahonias https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-mahonia/ Tue, 18 Nov 2025 16:52:35 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-mahonia/ Mahonia is a valuable shrub for winter colour. Find out how to grow it, in our detailed Grow Guide. Mahonias are evergreen shrubs that typically thrive in shade. Their winter blooms provide an invaluable source of pollen and nectar for winter-active bees and other pollinators, when there's little else in flower. These are followed by small blueish fruits, which attract birds. With their evergreen spiny foliage, mahonias look fantastic underplanted with contrasting foliage plants that also thrive in shade, for example, elephant ears (Bergenia), fringe cups (Tellima grandiflora) and epimediums.
Mahonia plants are toxic. Mahonia berries and seeds can also be toxic, especially unripe berries. They should not be eaten, particularly by pregnant women, as they can cause uterine contractions.
Where to grow mahonia
The best place to plant mahonia is in moist but well-drained soil in partial or full shade. They can be grown in full sun provided the soil remains moist. Mahonias are ideal for planting under deciduous trees or in a shady mixed border. They’re also a valuable winter plant for wildlife gardens.
Smaller varieties, such as Mahonia eurybracteata subsp. ganpinensis ‘Soft Caress’, can be grown in large containers, though they may eventually need to be planted out in the garden. Mahonias (especially larger varieties) grow best in sheltered locations where cold winds won’t scorch the foliage.
When to plant mahonia
The best time to plant mahonia is in spring or autumn when the soil is moist and the weather is mild, but not too warm. Avoid planting mahonia when the ground is waterlogged or frozen.
How to plant mahonia
Dig a generous hole, adding well-rotted compost and a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi. Plant the mahonia, making sure the rootball sits just below the surface of the soil, and firm in well. Water thoroughly.
When planting mahonia in containers, use a loam-based compost, such as peat-free John Innes No.3. Place the container in a sheltered spot in full or partial shade.
How to care for mahonia
Mahonias shouldn’t need watering once they are well established, provided the ground remains moist. Water established plants only if the soil dries out in prolonged hot periods. Apply a mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring and autumn, leaving a space around the stem, to help conserve moisture. Plants in the ground shouldn’t need regular feeding. But if plants look like they’re struggling, add a balanced fertiliser in spring. Water plants in containers regularly. Feed with a slow-release fertiliser and apply a balanced liquid feed during the growing season.
Mahonias are hardy and almost all varieties should tolerate winter temperatures in the UK. In very cold winters, plants in containers would benefit from wrapping the pot with hessian or fleece to protect both the roots and the container.
How to prune mahonia
Prune ground-cover mahonias every other year in spring after flowering to encourage bushy growth and remove unwanted suckers. Taller mahonias require little pruning, but should have unwanted suckers removed. Mahonias can be renovation pruned if necessary by cutting back old stems (no more than half of the plant) to strong growth low down. They may take a while to regrow, but should develop healthy, thicker growth in time. Prune the rest of the stems back by a third.
How to propagate mahonia
Mahonia can be successfully propagated by layering or stem cuttings in June and July.
Here, Carol Klein shows you how to take stem cuttings from an evergreen mahonia, using a special technique to cope with its large leaves:
View Green Video on the source website
Pests and diseases
Mahonia is generally pest-free, but look out for rusts and powdery mildew in dry weather.
Advice on buying mahonia
- Check that the mahonia variety you've chosen will grow to the right size for your space
- Make sure your soil retains enough moisture to keep a mahonia healthy
- Always check plants for pests and disease before you buy or as soon as you unpack your plants for online orders
Where to buy mahonia online
Mahonia varieties to grow
Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’ has typical bright yellow, fragrant flowers from late autumn to late winter. It looks particularly good at the back of a shady border. Height x Spread: 4m x 4m
Mahonia aquifolium is also known as the Oregon grape, indicating its North American origins. 'Apollo' is a compact cultivar that grows in a neat, spreading dome. The glossy, dark green leaves flush purple in winter with the characteristic yellow flowers appearing in early spring, followed by blue-black berries. H x S: 1m x 1.5m
Mahonia repens is a creeping variety with a low-growing habit, and makes great groundcover in shady areas. The attractive foliage turns purplish in winter and bright yellow, fragrant flowers appear in spring. H x S: 0.5m x 1m
Mahonia x media ‘Charity’ has an upright habit and long leaves. Stalks of bright yellow, fragrant flowers are produced at the ends of branches from late autumn to late winter. Mahonia ‘Charity’ is ideal for a shady spot at the back of a border. H x S: 4m x 4m
Mahonia eurybracteata subsp. ganpinensis 'Soft Caress' is a variety with finely divided soft evergreen, bamboo-like foliage. Mahonia ‘Soft Caress’ looks completely different to other mahonias and the yellow flowers appear in late summer and autumn. H x S: 1m x 1m
Mahonia japonica bears lemon-yellow flowers from late autumn to early spring with a sweet lily-of-the-valley fragrance. Suitable for a variety of planting positions, including slopes and banks. H x S: 1.5m x 2.5
Find out more about different mahonia varieties in this video clip with Carol Klein, from BBC Gardeners' World:
View Green Video on the source website
Frequently asked questions
How tall do mahonias grow?
Mahonias vary greatly in height depending on the variety. Some, like Mahonia ‘Charity’, can reach 5m, whereas lower growing varieties, such as Mahonia repens, might only reach 30cm.
Does mahonia spread?
Some mahonia varieties spread along the ground, producing suckers around the base. But they can be kept in check by pruning and digging out unwanted suckers. Some types of mahonia are considered invasive species in the United States, but the varieties grown in the UK are not considered invasive here.
]]> How to grow hostas https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-hostas/ Sun, 26 Oct 2025 08:00:58 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-hostas/ All you need to know about growing shade-loving hostas, in our Grow Guide. Hostas are prized primarily for their foliage but they also have attractive, often scented, summer flowers. These hardy clump-forming perennials are popular with container gardeners and are unbeatable for low-growing foliage interest in spring and summer. Thriving in light and medium shade, they're incredibly useful plants.
Hosta foliage is perfect for cutting. With so many different colours and textures available in the genus you can add silver, variegated, heart-shapes, crinkly or smooth leaves to a flower arrangement.
Jump to: Best hostas to grow
How to grow hostas
Grow in moist, fertile soil in light or partial shade. Protect from slugs and snails. Mulch annually with well-rotted manure, compost or leaf mould and divide congested clumps every three to five years.
When do hostas flower?
Hostas are typically grown for their leaves, but they do produce flowers as well. They bloom in summer, bearing purple or white flowers on tall stems. The flowers can be quite pretty but they can look tatty after a few days – many gardeners remove hosta flowers so they can make the most of the foliage display.
Growing hostas: jump links
- Planting hostas
- Caring for hostas
- Propagating hostas
- Growing hostas: problem-solving
- Buying hostas
- Best hostas to grow
More on growing hostas:
- 15 of the best hostas to grow
- Hosta and fern pot display
- Cosmos, hosta and bedding pot display
Where to plant hostas
Hostas do best in a water-retentive, fertile soil. Very heavy clay and sandy soils should be improved by digging in plenty of well-rotted organic matter. Ideally the pH of the soil should be 6.5 but it's still worth growing them in acid or alkaline soils.
Choose a position of light or semi shade. Hostas are very hardy so will thrive in a north-facing garden or frost pocket.
As they thrive in a water-retentive soil they're ideal for planting in a bog garden but they should not be treated as an aquatic marginal. For this reason they are often planted by, but never in, a pond.
When growing in pots, ensure there are plenty of drainage holes as waterlogged soil will kill the plant. Avoid metal containers as hosta roots need to be kept cool in summer. For best results, grow in large pots so the compost dries out less frequently.
When to plant hostas
You can plant hostas all year round, but spring and autumn are preferable. It's best to avoid planting in mid-summer, when temperatures are high and the water table is low, as this can prevent the plant from establishing well. Mid-winter is also a bad time to plant hostas, as the ground is cold and often frozen.
How to plant hostas
Improve the soil by digging in well-rotted organic matter. Use a small garden spade to dig a hole the size of the root ball. Remove the plant from its pot and put the plant into the hole. Back fill with soil and firm in place. Water in well.
Use the same method to plant a hosta in a pot, ensuring you water the compost thoroughly and allow to drain.
In this video, Monty Don explains how to plant hostas:
View Green Video on the source website
Where to buy hostas online
How to care for hostas
Hostas will pretty much look after themselves once established, if growing in the right growing environment. In pots, it's important to not let the compost dry out. Boost fertility by applying a slow-release fertiliser each spring.
You may need to protect plants from slugs and snails – placing copper rings around the plants can help deter molluscs.
Cut back flower spikes when they have gone over and cut back hard in autumn. Mulching annually with well-rotted manure, compost or leaf mould will boost soil fertility and therefore plant health.
Richard Proctor of Sue Proctor Plants gives his three golden rules when growing hostas, in this video guide:
View Green Video on the source website
How to propagate hostas
Hostas will bulk up quickly, if given the right growing conditions. To increase your stock of plants, simply lift the plant carefully in autumn or spring with a garden fork, taking care not to damage the growing points. Place the plant on a potting bench and use a sharp knife to cut the plant into two. Very large plants can be divided further but do ensure you have about two healthy shoots on each division.
Some hostas have more fibrous roots than others, and these can be pulled, rather than cut apart.
Ideally replant the division and the parent plant back in the garden straight away. If this isn't possible, pot the divisions on, ensuring they're planted at the original depth they were when you dug them up.
Hostas grown in pots will quickly fill the growing space, so it's wise to divide them every third year or move them to a larger pot.
In this video clip from Gardeners' World, Monty explains how to divide and replant hostas:
View Green Video on the source website
Growing hostas: problem solving
Slugs and snails are the number one enemy of the hosta. In early spring, as the dramatic spears of new foliage push their way out of the ground, be on red alert. If you use slug pellets, ensure the active ingredient is ferric phosphate, as those containing metaldehyde are extremely harmful to wildlife and other animals. Never apply more pellets than recommended. The biological control Nemaslug is also a good option, as are copper bands, which can be placed around pots. You can also try setting beer traps or mulch the area with sharp gravel.
Remove as many slugs and snails by hand as possible, remembering they are more active at night.
Advice for buying hostas
- Hostas come in a range of shapes and sizes, with a huge variety of leaf colour and pattern. Make sure you choose the right hosta for your growing conditions and garden design
- Avoid buying hostas with green leaves. Foliage should be healthy and lush
- Hostas are widely available from garden centres and nurseries, but you may find something special at a specialist retailer
Where to buy hostas online
Best hostas to grow
Hosta 'Cracker Crumbs'
Hosta 'Cracker Crumbs' is a miniature, fast-growing hosta. It has small, delicately pointed leaves in a vibrant shade of lime green, and each leaf has an attractive darker green edge. The flowers are dark mauve.
Height x Spread: 20cm x 50cm
Hosta 'El Niño'
Hosta 'El Niño' is a medium-sized hosta. The broad, pointed leaves appear thick and cushioned, and are an intense, smoky blue, with striking white margins. Lilac flowers appear in summer.
H x S: 40cm x 60cm
Hosta 'Frosted Mouse Ears'
Hosta 'Frosted Mouse Ears' is a miniature hosta with thick, curled smoky-green foliage. This variety produces a dense cluster of small leaves, each with a contrasting lime green, irregular margin. The flowers are purple.
H x S: 20cm x 35cm
Hosta 'Hanky Panky'
'Hanky Panky' is a medium-sized hosta. The leaves are elongated and delicate, with thick white margins at the beginning of the season, then changing to a yellowish-green later in the summer. Also grows well in a sunny position.
H x S: 40cm x 90cm
Hosta 'Kikutii'
'Kikutii' is medium-sized, with attractive narrow, pointed leaves in a lush mid-green colour. Ideal for creating a contrast among broad-leaved hostas, it bears lavender-coloured flowers.
H x S: 40cm x 60cm
Hosta 'Love Pat'
Hosta 'Love Pat' is medium in size, with broad, thick foliage. Each leaf is an attractive smoky-blue colour – almost round – while the flowers are lilac.
H x S: 60cm x 60cm
Hosta 'One Man's Treasure'
'One Man's Treasure' has broad, yet pointed leaves, which are lush green in colour. It's a great variety for pots, where its unusual red stems can be used to full effect.
H x S: 30cm x 60cm
Hosta 'Revolution'
'Revolution' is large hosta with broad, pointed foliage. It produces a bright contrast in shady areas, as the deep-green leaves are variegated with a cream-coloured central flare. The lilac-mauve flowers appear in summer.
H x S: 50cm x 60cm
Hosta 'Sunshine Glory'
Hosta 'Sunshine Glory' is a medium variety, growing to around 40cm in height. It has very dramatic, large heart-shaped foliage in a fresh, spring-green colour, brightened with irregular white margins.
H x S: 50cm x 60cm
Hosta 'Halcyon'
‘Halcyon’ makes a dense clump of blue-green, oval foliage with pale lavender flowers in July to August. This is also a slug-resistant hosta variety. This medium-sized variety reaches a height and spread of around
H x S: 50cm x 20cm
Hosta 'Golden Tiara'
‘Golden Tiara’ has neat, rounded, dark green leaves edged in gold, with masses of purple flowers on upright stems in July.
H x S: 50cm x 50cm.
Hosta 'Blue Mouse Ears'
'Blue Mouse Ears' is a slug-resistant hosta with cupped, blue leaves and lavender-blue flowers from July to August.
H x S: 30cm x 30cm
Hosta 'Frances Williams'
Hosta ‘Frances Williams’ has heart-shaped, blue-green leaves, edged gold in summer. It then bears white flowers from June to July. It's also a slug-resistant hosta variety.
H x S: 60cm x 1m
Hosta 'Sum and Substance'
This huge hosta bears very large slightly cupped leaves in chartreuse to gold. Lavender flowers appear in July.
H x S: 75cm x 1.2m
]]> How to grow cabbages https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-cabbages/ Wed, 15 Oct 2025 10:50:59 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-cabbages/ Find out how to sow, grow and harvest cabbages, in this practical Grow Guide. Cabbages are a versatile vegetable belonging to the brassica family, and come in a range of different colours and shapes, and with different leaf textures. They take up a lot of growing space and are slow to mature, but there's such a huge range of types to grow that you can harvest cabbages almost all year round. Cabbage can be used in many ways, including shredded in salads and coleslaw, added to stir-fries or mixed into soups, as well as a side dish to accompany main courses.
Cabbages are rich in vitamins and high in fibre, aiding general health as well as a healthy digestive system. Be careful eating cabbage and drinking boiled cabbage water if you have a sensitive digestive system, including IBS. Some studies have shown that a high fibre diet aids gut flora and protects your digestive system against bacteria, while others advocate avoiding cabbage and other high-fibre leafy plants as they can cause bloating and wind. Treat any new vegetable with caution and consume in small doses to test your gut responses before consuming significant quantities.
Where to grow cabbages
Grow cabbages in a sunny spot in deep, fertile soil. The soil pH must be alkaline to neutral, so if you think your soil may be acidic then do a soil pH test before planting, and add lime to the soil if necessary, or grow in a raised bed where you can control the growing medium more easily. Bear in mind that cabbages take several months to harvest, so grow them where you won't need to use the space for something else.
How to grow cabbages from seed
Sow cabbage seeds at different times of year, depending on the type – check the back of the seed packet for details.
In autumn or spring, sow in seed trays or small pots of peat-free compost, placing two seeds per pot or module. Keep under cover in a greenhouse, polytunnel, glass porch or on a well-lit windowsill. Thin seedlings, leaving the the stronger one, when the seedlings have appeared and grow on until the plants have four or five leaves. At this stage your cabbage plants are ready to plant out – harden them off to acclimatise them to the outdoors for a week or so before planting.
From mid-spring to early autumn, sow outside in rows in a seedbed and then thin the seedlings to 8-10cm apart to grow on for transplanting. Alternatively, sow cabbage seed direct in rows 30-45cm apart, and thin plants to 30-45cm.
How to plant cabbages
If the soil is loose, tread over before planting. Plant at 30-45cm spacings – check the seed packet for advice on planting spacings, as different varieties should be spaced at different intervals. Firm the plants well to secure the roots and help prevent cabbage root fly laying eggs in the soil around the stem. Adding a root collar immediately after planting also helps keep cabbage fly at bay. Water in well.
How to care for cabbages
Keep cabbage plants well-watered during dry spells so the soil never dries out, but don't let it get waterlogged either. Keep the soil around the crop clear of weeds which would compete for water and nutrients. Remove any yellowing leaves, which could become the source of diseases.
Pests and diseases
Cabbages are liable to several pests and diseases that commonly affect plants in the brassica family.
The caterpillars of large and small white (cabbage white butterflies) usually cause damage, making holes in the leaves and eating into the heart of the plant. You can pick caterpillars off by hand or use insect-proof netting. However, you may find that wasps take most of the caterpillars from the plants to feed their young, and the plants recover after the caterpillars have completed their lifecycle. You can also grow closely related nasturtiums nearby and transfer the caterpillars onto the nasturtium leaves, to protect your crop.
In winter, pigeons may eat your cabbages. Protect plants by covering with netting, stretched taut to avoid the risk of the birds becoming entangled. Hanging up bird scarers such as fluttering fabric on strings may deter birds, but this depends on the type of scarer and how hungry the birds are. Netting is the safest bet.
Cabbage root fly lays its eggs in the soil and these hatch into small white larvae which tunnel into the roots. Protect young plants by using brassica collars, which prevent egg-laying. Covering mature plants with insect mesh also provides good protection.
Club root is a soil-borne disease occurring mostly in the warmer months. It infects the roots, causing them to become swollen, affecting the growth of cabbages above ground. Improving drainage can help, as can adding lime to make the soil more alkaline. If your plants are affected, remove and destroy them, and avoid grow brassica plants in the same spot for at least four years.
In this video, Alan Titchmarsh explains why cabbages suffer from club root and how to avoid it.
View Green Video on the source website
How to harvest cabbages
Once your cabbage plants are mature and well formed, use a sharp knife to sever the cabbage from its roots. If time and space permit, try leaving the plant with a 10cm stalk, as you may get a smaller, second crop from it. Simply score a shallow cross in the stump to encourage smaller cabbages to form.
Preparing and cooking cabbages
Discard any floppy outer or yellowing leaves. Cut out the hard central stalks from the leaves. Wash well, then shred and use raw in salads and coleslaw, pickled in sauerkraut, braised or lightly steamed as a side dish with a knob of butter. Take care not to over-cook cabbage as it can taste and smell bitter.
Storing cabbages
Cabbages are best eaten as soon as they are picked for the best texture and flavour. Most will keep in the fridge for several days, with those that form firm heads keeping for weeks.
Advice on buying cabbages
- There are lots of different types of cabbages to grow, so choose the right one to suit your space and the time of year you want to sow and harvest it
- Bear in mind that F1 varieties don't come true from saved seed, so buy an open-pollinated variety if you want to save seed each year
- Always buy seed from a reputable supplier
Where to buy cabbages
Cabbage varieties to try
‘Earliest Of All’ – compact, pale green heads ready for picking from July
- Buy cabbage ‘Earliest Of All’ from J Parker's
‘Langedijk’ – tender heads with a white heart for use over autumn and winter
- Buy cabbage ‘Langedijk’ from Organic Gardening Catalogue
‘Primero’ – blackish-purple summer cabbage
- Buy cabbage ‘Primero’ from Bejo Seeds
‘Savoy King’ – autumn/winter cabbage, hardy
- Buy cabbage ‘Savoy King’ from Mr Fothergill's
Frequently asked questions
Are cabbages poisonous to pets?
Cabbage is nutritious and safe for pets to eat, although in small quantities only, because it can cause bloating and flatulence. For dogs and cats, chop cabbage into small pieces and steam or boil first.
How long do cabbages take to grow?
As a rough guide, cabbages take around 20 weeks to grow from sowing to harvest. Winter cabbage, including red and white cabbage, take longer.
]]> How to grow asters https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-asters/ Tue, 26 Aug 2025 14:55:50 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-asters/ All you need to know about growing asters, or Michaelmas daisies, in this detailed Grow Guide. Asters are in the daisy family, and most of the varieties grown in the UK are perennial, meaning they come back every year. They generally flower in late summer and autumn, which gives them their common name Michaelmas daisy. Asters are ideal for growing in mixed borders, with grasses and other prairie-type perennials. In botanical terms there are two main types of aster – North American and European. Most North American species come under the name of Symphyotrichum or Eurybia, but many people still refer to them as asters.
Asters are a great transition plant, bridging the seasons from summer to autumn. Their bright, daisy-like aster flowers make a colourful splash and provide a rich source of nectar and pollen for late-flying insects. Many varieties also make good cut flowers.
Where to grow asters
Grow asters in dappled or partial shade, in any type of soil, although slightly moist soil (that never dries out) is preferable for species prone to developing powdery mildew. Asters can also be grown successfully in containers, again, preferably where the soil remains slightly moist, or choose European asters, which have greater resistance to powdery mildew.
When to plant asters
Asters in containers are best planted from March to early May. They can be planted in the summer, but will need far more watering than those planted earlier in the year. Asters are also available to buy in the winter as bare-root plants. These tend to be cheaper and they should be planted as soon as possible, provided the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged.
How to plant asters
Asters are easy to plant. Plant them as you would any perennial, ensuring they have plenty of space to grow and keeping them well watered as they establish. Some asters work well as ground cover, while other varieties can grow up to 2m tall. Most asters don’t need staking, but some of the tall varieties may need staking in windy areas.
How to care for asters
Deadhead aster flowers to keep them looking good and to encourage more blooms to form. Cut aster plants back hard after flowering in late autumn. In midsummer, pinch out the top shoots to encourage flowers.
Asters in pots will need regular watering, but plants in the ground should only need watering in prolonged dry periods. They respond best to a good watering when the soil is dry, rather than frequent light watering. Asters do not grow well in damp and waterlogged soils. Asters don’t generally need feeding, but adding an organic mulch in spring is beneficial.
Overwintering asters is straightforward provided the ground doesn’t become waterlogged in winter. Many of the asters grown in the UK are hardy down to -20°C, but the combination of wet soil conditions and cold winter temperature can kill them. Asters in containers should be brought into a frost-free place overwinter.
How to propagate asters
Increase your stock of asters by taking softwood cuttings between April and August (bear in mind that the process from taking cuttings to having flowering plants can take over two years).
Remove non-flowering shoots, cutting them down to a few centimetres in length, and then remove the lower leaves. Push each cutting into a pot of moist but gritty compost. Cover with a clear polythene bag or pop the pot in a propagator. Check the compost regularly and ensure it doesn't dry out, so the cuttings have the best chance of taking root. Pot the cuttings into individual containers at the first signs of growth (after about six to eight weeks). Plant the young plants out in spring and they will flower the following year.
Asters can also be propagated by division. Usually after around three years, the clumps are large enough to divide. Simply dig up and halve or quarter the clump with a sharp spade. Replant the clumps immediately into their new positions and water well.
Pests and diseases
Mildew is a common problem among many aster varieties, particularly the North American varieties. Keep plants well-watered and don’t let the soil dry out, but also look for varieties that are more mildew-resistant. European asters, including Aster amellus, Aster pyrenaeus and Aster x frikartii are all mildew resistant, as are Eurybia x herveyi, the Japanese aster, Kalimeris incisa, and Symphyotrichum ‘Little Carlow’.
Advice on buying asters
- Choose your aster flowers carefully – if you have drier soils then opt for European or certified mildew-resistant varieties
- Always check plants for signs of damage or disease before buying or planting
- Asters are available to buy from garden centres and nurseries but you'll find a wider selection from specialist nurseries and online
Where to buy asters
Great aster varieties to grow
Symphyotrichum ‘Ochtendgloren’ (pilosum var pringlei hybrid) – previously known as Aster ‘Ochtendgloren’, this has typical lavender flowers with bright yellow centres. A taller variety, it works well at the back of a border
Symphyotrichum laeve ‘Calliope’ – a particularly tall aster, with masses of small, lilac-blue flowers with yellow centres
Symphyotrichum novi-belgii 'Samoa' (‘Dasthree’) (‘Island Series’) – with purple flowers with bright yellow centres
Symphyotrichum ‘Coombe Fishacre’ – the small, lilac-blue flowers have yellow to purple-brown centres
Frequently asked questions
Are asters poisonous to pets?
Asters aren’t known to be poisonous to pets, however the charity Cats Protection does list asters in the category ‘Caution Advised’ as ingesting them has been known to cause gastrointestinal upset in cats. Eating any plant material can potentially cause stomach upsets in cats and dogs.
Do asters spread?
Asters can spread by seed and by stolons (horizontal stems that grow along the surface of the soil). Remove seedlings and lift clumps every three or four years, divide plants and replant or give away unwanted portions. Take care not to let asters spread beyond your garden as some varieties can be invasive in the wild.
]]> How to grow Swiss chard https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-swiss-chard-2/ Sat, 16 Aug 2025 06:56:27 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-swiss-chard-2/ Swiss chard is a delicious alternative to spinach – find out how to grow it in our Grow Guide. A delicious alternative to spinach, Swiss chard is easy to grow. In the UK it's usually referred to as chard, but it's also known as leaf beet. With its ornamental leaves and often colourful stems, it looks just as good in containers and borders as the vegetable plot. Packed with vitamins, mature leaves make a colourful addition to stir-fries and soups and young, tender leaves are great in salads. The stems can be cooked separately and are equally tasty. Swiss chard is hardy and can be overwintered for early pickings in spring. Although it's not a perennial vegetable, if you leave chard to self seed, it will come back every year.
Where to grow Swiss chard
The best place to grow chard is in a sunny position, in well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter such as homemade compost.
Sowing Swiss chard seeds
Growing chard is easy. Make a shallow drill in well-prepared soil in a sunny spot and sow your Swiss chard seeds thinly, approximately 1.5cm deep. Cover seeds with soil and water well. Sow in rows 40cm apart. You can sow chard from March to September. To get crops throughout the year, sow in spring and again in July. Chard can be left over winter to provide early pickings in spring.
How to plant Swiss chard
Plant out Swiss chard seedlings once they are about 5cm tall. Harden the plants off first for about two weeks, placing seedlings outside during the day and bringing them in at night. Plant chard seedlings in the ground, around 30cm apart. Growing chard in pots is also straightforward. Plant chard seedlings into a container filled with peat-free, multi-purpose compost. Choose a large container if possible, around 40cm wide and at least 25cm deep.
Caring for Swiss chard
As the seedlings begin to grow, thin out the plants so that they're 25-30cm apart. Water well after thinning. Keep an eye out for pests, but apart from watering, this is an easy vegetable to look after. Sow seeds every few weeks for a continuous crop that'll see you through the winter months, with just a little protection.
Swiss chard can be grown successfully in containers and even in among your flower borders, where it will complement the hot colours of late summer flowers.
Pests and diseases
Swiss chard is a relatively trouble-free vegetable apart from attacks on seedlings by slugs and snails, so do put some protection in place after sowing.
Some varieties, particularly the ones with red stems, can be prone to bolting.
Beet leaf miner can also affect chard. These are flies whose maggots tunnel inside the leaves creating blotches that eventually turn brown and affect the growth of the plant, particularly early in the season. The best way to deal with this problem is to try to squash the maggots in the blotchy areas or to net crops. Crop rotation is also important as this can help prevent overwintering leaf miner larvae from affecting your chard crop.
Harvesting Swiss chard
Young chard leaves are delicious eaten fresh and you can use early thinnings for salads. The fully-formed leaves will be ready to harvest about 10-12 weeks after sowing, but late summer sowings may take a little longer. Cut individual leaves as you need them and the plant will keep producing new growth. Chard can also be left in the ground over winter. It won't produce new leaves in cold weather, but you should get some early harvests in the spring.
Storing, preparing and using Swiss chard
Swiss chard is best eaten soon after picking. However, leaves can be blanched and frozen for later use in soups. Cook the stems and leaves separately, as the stems are tougher. When preparing the leaves, you may need to remove the ribs from the largest leaves as these can also be tough. Both the leaves and stems can be boiled, steamed or stir fried. Cook the stems for a couple of extra minutes. Chard is a delicious ingredient in dishes such as gratins, pies, stews, soups and stir fries.
Looking for inspiration on how to use your crop? Our friends at olive have curated a collection of chard recipes.
Swiss chard varieties to try
‘Bright Lights’ RHS AGM – with rainbow-coloured stems and green and leaves of green or bronze. Good for harvesting into the late autumn months, it can also be overwintered for an early spring crop.
- Buy 'Bright Lights' from Sarah Raven
‘White Silver’ RHS AGM – with thick white stems and dark green leaves this is a classic Swiss Chard. A hardy variety, good for cropping through early winter.
- Buy 'White Silver' from Thompson & Morgan
‘Bright Yellow’ RHS AGM – with golden yellow stalks, this is a lovely variety that's slow to bolt and very hardy over winter. It'll also produce an early spring crop after the last of the late-autumn harvest.
- Buy 'Bright Yellow' from Kings Seeds
'Fordhook Giant' – a big variety that grows up to 6ocm tall with dark green leaves and cream to ivory stalks.
- Buy 'Fordhook Giant' from Thompson & Morgan
Frequently asked questions
What should not be planted near Swiss chard?
There is no need to avoid planting any particular vegetable next to Swiss chard. There are pests, such as leaf miner, which are attracted to both Swiss chard and beetroot. The best way to avoid a build up of pests such as beet leaf miner is to rotate crops. Leaf miners overwinter as pupae in the soil with adult flies emerging in the spring. Moving crops should mean that pest populations decrease as they don't have a host crop to feed on.
How do you pick Swiss chard so it keeps growing?
To treat Swiss chard as a cut and come again crop, pick the outer leaves regularly to encourage new leaves to grow. Alternatively, you can cut the whole chard plant near the base and it should resprout.
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