BBC Gardeners World Magazinehttps://www.gardenersworld.com2026-05-06T10:30:56.000Zhourly12000-01-01T12:00+00:00The best eight planters and containers for strawberrieshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/the-best-containers-for-strawberries/2026-05-06T10:00:37.000ZStrawberries are easy to grow and do well in containers, as long as you give them rich, fertile soil and a sunny, sheltered position. Strawberry planter pots take up very little space and can easily fit on a balcony or patio so anyone, no matter how small their space, can have a go at growing their own.

One advantage of growing strawberries in a planter is that the ripening fruit doesn't fall onto the ground, so is therefore less likely to be spattered by mud or munched by hungry slugs and snails. You can also give your plants the exact conditions they need, moving them into the sun to ripen the fruit, just when they need it.

Bear in mind that whatever the type of strawberry planter you choose, you will need to water your strawberries regularly to keep them hydrated. It's also important to feed container-grown strawberries weekly with a high potash fertiliser during the growing season, to ensure a good crop.

The best container to plant strawberries in has plenty of space for a few plants, is kept off the ground so slugs and snails can't get to the fruit, and doesn't dry out. There are advantages and disadvantages to all containers, as some will need regular watering and/or feeding, while others take up more space or don't keep the plants off the ground. Browse our list of strawberry planters, below, and find out which one works best for you.

Growing bag

Standard growing bags are cheap to buy, take up little space and you can cut planting holes cut into the plastic.

Size: 95cm x 35cm (33 litres)

Number of plants: six

Advantages: cheap, and contains slow-release food that will last for six weeks.

Things to consider: not the most attractive option, the fruit may be eaten by rats or slugs and snails.

• Buy growing bags from Thompson & Morgan

Bespoke strawberry planter

A classically designed terracotta strawberry planter can be planted in the top as well as in pockets dotted around the side.

Size: 35cm x 35cm

Number of plants: variable, depending on design

Advantages: bespoke planters look attractive and a good-sized pot holds plenty of plants. These strawberry planters also produced the highest yield of strawberries in our trial.

Things to consider: planting pockets can be prone to drying out.

• Buy strawberry planters from Whichford Pottery

Planting trugs

These free standing ‘V’ shaped planters on legs make great use of space. Some models are made using wood, others are made using felt or sturdy woven plastic, and can be folded down for easy storage after use.

Size: variable

Number of plants: variable, depending on size of planter

Advantages: great for a small space and practical if you find bending difficult.

Things to consider: some designs don't hold water well. May be unstable in a windy spot.

• Buy a vegetable trug from Crocus

Hanging basket

A hanging strawberry planter is simply a hanging basket planted up with strawberries rather than ornamental plants. This will enable you to grow strawberries off the ground, making them ideal for protecting from slugs and snails.

Size: 40cm diameter

Number of plants: six

Advantages: an interesting change to a traditional hanging basket and fruit is kept away from slugs.

Things to consider: hanging baskets need regular watering and feeding as plants are growing in a limited amount of compost

• Buy a hanging basket from Crocus

Terracotta pot

Simple terracotta pots are simple, attractive options that enable the fruits to spill over the side and are kept off the ground.

Size: variable

Number of plants: three to six

Advantages: terracotta pots are perfect for a patio, balcony or step.

Things to consider: this growing method produced the smallest crop in our trial, so plant up several planters for a bigger yield. Terracotta pots dry out more quickly than those made of plastic or other materials.

• Buy terracotta pots from Crocus

Window box

Window boxes provide a space-saving way to grow strawberries, helping to keep the fruit off the ground. Make sure you fix the box to the windowsill using brackets, so it doesn't fall off in high wind.

Size: typically 60cm x 15cm x 18cm

Number of plants: three to six

Advantages: window boxes can save on space if used on a windowsill or a balcony.

Things to consider: you may get a small crop so if you can, plant up several planters.

• Buy window boxes from Crocus

Vertical planting pockets

A vertical strawberry planter takes up very little space and allows you to grow fruit protected from wet soil and/or soil pests, such as slugs and snails. Cloth options are cheapest but more longer lasting versions are available.

Size: typically 1m x35cm

Number of plants: 16

Advantages: takes up very little room for the amount of plants you can grow.

Things to consider: you will need to keep the plants regularly watered.

• Buy vertical planters from Agriframes

Raised trough planter

Size: variable

Number of plants: variable

Advantages: larger trough planters provide more soil volume so strawberry roots can grow deeply and the soil won't dry out as quickly as smaller containers.

Things to consider: larger troughs can be expensive.

• Buy steel troughs from Crocus
• Buy raised troughs from Vidaxl

Frequently asked questions

How big of a planter do you need for strawberries?

Starwberries should be placed around 20cm apart, so measure the amount of growing space you have and plant accordingly, for example, a window box measuring 60cm long should comfortably fit three strawberry plants.

Are strawberry planters worth growing?

Yes! Strawberries are delicious and nutritious fruits that taste so much better when grown yourself, than anything you can buy in the shops. Planted in spring, strawberries are easy to grow, as long as you can protect them from slugs and snails, and they come back every year.

]]>12 low maintenance plants that will tolerate neglecthttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/pot-plants-that-will-tolerate-neglect/2026-05-06T08:03:13.000ZGrowing plants in pots and containers is a great way to liven up a dull, paved space. However, it can be hard to keep up with watering and feeding requirements, especially if they're growing in a sunny spot. Luckily, there are many low maintenance outdoor potted plants that look good all year round. These have naturally adapted to hot, dry conditions and will look great while also saving you time and effort.

It’s usually easy to spot the plants that need less looking after. You might find them growing in cracks in walls or paving, where it’s unlikely that they get a lot of water and nutrients. Others have adapted to dry conditions by changing their leaf shape or type to reduce evaporation – look for plants with tiny hairs on their leaves, leaves with spines, aromatic or silvery leaves, or fleshy, succulent or really small leaves. These drought resistant plants all thrive in baking, parched conditions, perfect for a low-maintenance container display.

It's worth choosing plants that also require very little feeding or pruning. Good examples include the slow-growing evergreen shrub Cistus purpureus, or short-lived perennial Erysimum 'Bowles's Mauve'. Alternatively, herbaceous perennials such as some types of agapanthus will die back in autumn and grow again in spring, leaving you with very little to do.

Browse our list of low-maintenance outdoor potted plants, below.

Erigeron karvinskianus

Mexican fleabane, Erigeron karvinskianus, has small, daisy-like flowers from late-spring to summer and looks lovely creeping down the sides of stone steps or tucked in wall crevices, where it self-seeds. It's perfect for growing in a terracotta pot as it not only looks good but is also drought-tolerant. Its pretty flowers will spill over the sides.

Height x Spread: 30cm x 60cm

Stachys byzantina

The leaves of lamb's ear, Stachys byzantina, are covered in fine, silvery hairs to reduce evaporation, making it extremely drought tolerant. It’s perfect for planting around a central focal point in a large pot, or with other drought-tolerant plants. Pink flowers appear from midsummer, but its evergreen leaves look good all year round.

H x S: 20cm x 45cm

Cistus

Hailing from the rocky areas of the Mediterranean, cistus is used to surviving without water and is therefore perfect for growing in a large container of free-draining compost and forgetting about. Pair with other Mediterranean shrubs such as rosemary, lavender and santolina. Flowers appear in summer but its evergreen leaves look good all year round.

H x S: 1m x 1.5m

Pelargonium

Scented-leaf pelargoniums are more drought-tolerant than those without scent, owing to the aromatic oils in their leaves, which help prevent evaporation. The flowers are usually small, but you can create an interesting foliage display by planting several varieties together. Frost tender, pelargoiniums should be brought indoors for winter.

H x S: 80cm x 80cm

Lavender

The slender, silvery and scented leaves of lavender are perfectly adapted for hot, dry conditions. Plant in a 30cm pot on its own or team with other drought-tolerant favourites. Choose a dwarf cultivar such as Lavandula angustifolia 'Nana Alba’ (pictured). While flowers appear in summer, the foliage is evergreen and looks good all year round.

H x S: 30cm x 30cm

Agapanthus

Either evergreen or herbaceous, agapanthus flower best when their roots are a little pot-bound, so they’re ideal for growing in a pot and neglecting. They will benefit from water and food in summer, but won’t need pruning – you can deadhead spent flowers or leave them to develop seedheads. Flowers tend to be short lived, so grow them with oyther flowering plants to enhance the display.

H x S: 60cm x 45cm

Rosemary

Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis, is hardy down to -15°C and suffers more from winter wet than from frost. Grow in a container in full sun, making sure it has plenty of room to spread. Water initially to help it become established, and then leave, as it becomes drought tolerant when established. Spring flowers are small and blue but its evergreen foliage looks good all year round.

H x S: 1m x 1m

Erysimum ‘Bowles's Mauve'

Erysimum ‘Bowles's Mauve' is a short-lived woody perennial wallflower that flowers throughout the year, and is reasonably drought-tolerant. You can deadhead spent blooms and trim to size, but you don’t have to. Take summer cuttings to make new, young plants for when the parent plant dies off.

H x S: 75cm x 75cm

Sempervivum

There are hundreds of sempervivums to choose from. These hardy succulents will look pretty in a pot and require no watering or feeding. Looking good all year round, plant them in full sun in well-drained soil, preferably in a container with added horticultural grit to aid drainage. Finish with a layer of gravel.

H x S: 20cm x 30cm

Echeveria

Echeveria are attractive succulents, usually grown in Britain as house plants, but they can be grown outside in milder regions. They form an evergreen rosette of fleshy leaves but flowers may appear in summer. Perfect for a year-round display, grow in pots in well-drained compost, in a sunny position. Bring indoors in autumn to survive winter.

H x S: 20cm x 30cm

Ice plant

There are many varieties of ice plant (Hylotelephium), which bear pink flowers from late summer. Drought tolerant, water the pot until plants are established, then they can be left or waterered infrequently. Grow with other drought-tolerant plants like lavender and verbena. As the foliage dies down in winter, they are best for a summer display only.

H x S: 50cm x 50cm

Verbenas

There are several types of verbena, all with reasonable resistant to drought. Verbena bonariensis 'Lollipop' is perfect for growing in pots due to its compact size. Flowers appear from late summer, so grow with other plants to extend the season of interest.

H x S: 60cm x 60cm

]]>22 plants for pots and containershttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/top-10-plants-for-containers/2026-04-27T12:30:48.000ZPots and containers offer the gardener great versatility and are a fantastic way to experiment with planting and design. From short-term bedding displays to permanent features of small trees and topiary, planting in pots adds another dimension to the garden, softening corners, brightening dull spots and providing instant, yet easily changeable, results.

When choosing your pot, stick to just one or two different materials. Take your cue from the style of the house and garden – red brick buildings are enhanced by terracotta containers, while a modern plot is the best backdrop for galvanised metal pots. Bigger pots have more impact, and plants growing in them won't dry out as quickly, but an eclectic group of small containers creates a quirky, ever-changing scene. Repetition can be effective – garden designers often use three or more identical containers planted with the same plants, for maximum impact.

The best plants for pots and containers

Euonymus

Variegated foliage is a real pick-me-up all year round. For a striking display, try it with creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia), tulips, golden narcissi or primroses.

• Buy Euonymus fortunei 'Emerald 'n' Gold'from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, J Parker's and Suttons

Pittosporum tenuifolium

This elegant evergreen shrub is available in a range of varieties with differently coloured foliage. 'Tom Thumb' has rich chocolate-purple leaves that emerge a light-green colour before darkening. 'Variegatum' has beautiful grey-green foliage with creamy margins, and 'Golf Ball' is a compact variety with mint green leaves. Pittosporum tenuifolium is slightly tender, so it will need a sheltered spot over winter.

• Buy Pittosporum tenuifolium from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, J Parker's and Suttons

Skimmia japonica

Skimmia japonica is one of the best winter plants for pots. It has glossy evergreen leaves and an abundance of tiny red buds through the winter, which open to white, pinky-white or greenish flowers in spring. Female and hermaphrodite varieties develop red berries during autumn.

• Buy Skimmia japonica from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus and J Parker's

Hosta

Hostas make beautiful architectural plants and work well in containers, either alone or with other plants. Try combining with bleeding heart or other foliage plants such as heucheras.

• Buy hostas from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, J Parker's and Suttons

Fountain grass (Pennisetum advena 'Rubrum')

Fountain grass is a real show-stopper. Grow in large pots with alliums for dramatic impact or on its own to make a statement. Pennisetum advena 'Rubrum' has graceful stems and red-tinged, squirrel-tail flowers that fade to beige in autumn. Protect from frost in winter.

• Buy Pennisetum advena 'Rubrum' from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan

Buddleja 'Buzz'

Buddleias in the 'Buzz' series are compact, making them perfect for growing in pots. While they don't flower all year round and need to be pruned back in spring, they will form a perennial display that you can complement with other plants that flower at different seasons.

• Buy *Buddleja '*Buzz' from Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Van Meuwen

Hebe

Many hebes are compact enough to grow in pots. Most have evergreen leaves, and their flowers last well into autumn and even winter when conditions are mild. Flowers range in colour from pinks to purples and whites.

• Buy hebes from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, J Parker's and Suttons

Agapanthus

Agapanthus work well in pots, as they do best when their roots are slightly restricted. Grow them on their own, or pair them with other plants that flower at different times of year. Most agapanthus are evergreen, but there are some deciduous types.

• Buy Agapanthus from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, Suttons, J Parker's and Sarah Raven

Cornus

Many varieties of dogwood, including cultivars of Cornus alba, Cornus sanguinea and Cornus sericea, have beautifully colourful winter stems and work well in pots. They make an excellent backdrop for other winter perennials, and you can choose plants (such as the lavender, hebe and phormium shown here), which will take centre stage when the leaves grow on the cornus stems in spring, dulling its display.

• Buy Cornus sanguinea from Crocus
• Buy Cornus sericea from Crocus
• Buy Cornus alba from Crocus

Heuchera

Heuchera is an evergreen foliage plant that comes in a range of vibrant colours. They're perfect for using as a foil for other plants and make excellent long-lasting displays.

• Buy Heuchera from Crocus and J Parker's

Phormium

Compact phormiums, such as ‘Chocomint’, ‘Jester’ and ‘Platt’s Black’, make ideal low-maintenance outdoor potted plants, creating architectural structure all year round. They can be combined with grasses and low-growing flowering plants to create eye-catching displays beside entrances, on patios or along paths.

• Buy phormium from Thompson & Morgan, Van Meuwen and Burncoose

Scented-leaf pelargonium

Scented-leaf pelargoniums (sometimes referred to as ‘scented-leaf geraniums’) are ideal for pots in full sun beside a path or entrance where their fragrance can be enjoyed as you brush past the foliage. As tender perennials, pelargoniums can be left in pots all year round as long as they're kept in a frost-free place over winter.

• Buy scented pelargoniums from Sarah Raven, J. Parker’s and Potash Nursery

Fuchsia

These attractive shrubs can be either hardy or tender perennials. Compact hardy fuchsias are a sustainable choice for garden pots as they will flower every summer, whereas tender varieties are often treated as annuals. Trailing varieties, such as ‘Patricia Hodge’, look fantastic spilling over the edge of hanging baskets.

• Buy fuchsias from Suttons, Thompson & Morgan and Crocus

Blueberry

Blueberry plants are low-maintenance shrubs with white bell flowers in spring, followed by delicious summer fruits, and then glorious autumn colour. With a wide range of varieties to choose from, it's possible to harvest blueberries throughout the summer. They're well suited to containers, but do need to be planted in peat-free ericaceous (acidic) compost.

• Buy blueberries from Sarah Raven, Dobies and Suttons

Hydrangea

More compact hydrangeas, like Hydrangea macrophylla 'Miss Saori' and 'Early Blue' (shown above), are perfect for large pots in a partially-shaded spot. If you buy a blue variety of Hydrangea macrophyllum or Hydrangea serrata, you'll need to plant it in peat-free ericaceous compost to ensure the pH stays below 5.5, which will maintain the blue colouration. Prune hydrangeas in spring.

• Buy hydrangeas from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Dobies

Roses

Patio roses are bred for smaller gardens and container growing. They're easy to grow – they just need a prune in spring and repotting if necessary. Most compact rose varieties suitable for pots have a lifespan of around 5-7 years.

• Buy patio roses from David Austin, Harkness Roses, World of Roses and Peter Beales

Clematis

Some clematis varieties with a more compact growth habit are particularly suitable for large containers. They need good drainage and sturdy supports to avoid damage from windy conditions.

• Buy compact clematis from Thorncroft and Raymond Evison Clematis

Azalea

Azaleas are deciduous or evergreen shrubs with vibrant flowers in a wide range of colours, usually in spring. They're well suited for pots, especially in gardens with alkaline soil, where they'd struggle in the ground. Azalea plants in containers need to be grown in peat-free ericaceous compost and watered with rainwater. They grow best in a sheltered position in full sun or partial shade.

• Buy azaleas from Crocus, Thomspon & Morgan and Dobies

Begonias

Ideal to bring colour and interest to areas in semi-shade, begonias thrive in pots of peat-free multi-purpose compost. Although often grown as annuals, most are tender perennials that can be brought in over winter (for fibrous begonias) or stored as tubers in the same way as dahlias (for tuberous begonias).

• Buy begonias from Suttons, Thompson & Morgan and Sarah Raven

Dahlia

With a vast range of varieties to choose from, dahlias come in almost every shape, colour and size. Ideally suited for pots, more compact varieties can be combined with other late summer-flowering perennials grown in containers to create flamboyant displays in hot colours, or used singly as specimen plants.

• Buy dahlias from Sarah Raven, Suttons and J. Parker’s

Chillies

Chilllies work well in containers and can be grown outside in the summer months. Plant them into peat-free, multi-purpose compost in a pot slightly larger than the rootball. Always let the compost dry out between waterings and feed weekly with a tomato fertiliser once flowers appear.

• Buy dahlias from Sarah Raven and Suttons

Jasmine

The best jasmine for pots is star jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides. Make sure the container is large as climbing plants need a lot of room to grow. Plant in a peat-free, loam-based compost like John Innes No. 2. Grow it against a south- or west-facing wall where it's protected from wind – in colder regions you may need to bring it indoors for winter.

• Buy dahlias from Sarah Raven and Suttons

How to plant up a pot

In this short video, Gabrielle Shay demonstrates how to plant up a pot to ensure it looks good and the plants stay healthy.

View Green Video on the source website

How to feed and water plants in pots

View Green Video on the source website

In this short video, Gabrielle Shay shows how to water plants in pots to keep them healthy, plus she explains when and what to feed your plants with.

Best plants for pots all year-round

The best plants for pots all year round include those with hardy evergreen foliage like yucca, English ivy, variegated euonymus and heuchera, and long-flowering plants like perennial wallflowers, Skimmia japonica and hebes. This is because they look better for longer. Evergreen plants should be paired with plants that flower at different times of year so there's always a contrasting focal point.

]]>Climbers for a shady wall or fencehttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/climbers-to-grow-in-shade/2026-04-24T08:36:22.000ZThis article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.

Many gardens have shaded walls or fences. Even sunny south-facing gardens will have a north-facing boundary at the back of the garden, but walls and fences in a shadier areas are easily covered if you know what to plant. North and east-facing boundaries can be transformed by planting a surprising variety of attractive climbers. Some will do better on an east-facing boundary, which should get sun for part of the day, but there are also climbers for full shade.

In the video above, Alan Titchmarsh shares his best climbers for shade, including ivy, honeysuckle and star jasmine.

Here are practical ideas and top recommended plants for north- and east-facing walls and fences, including fast-growing climbers for shade and rose climbers for shade.

Rosa 'Wedding Day'

Rosa 'Wedding Day' is a fast-growing and fragrant rambler rose, perfect for covering a house wall or boundary in partial shade. It tolerates poor soil and a north-facing aspect, but does best in moist, well-drained soil with plenty of space to grow.

• Buy Rosa 'Wedding Day' from Crocus and David Austin

Ivy

Ivy thrives in deepest shade. Our native ivy, Hedera helix, has beautiful, lustrous, dark-green leaves. Variegated types will help to lighten up dark corners in the garden. As an alternative, consider Boston ivy.

• Buy ivy from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan

Honeysuckle

Honeysuckles such as Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina' (pictured) climb over walls and fences and many do well in some shade. They offer wonderful scent and great for wildlife.

• Buy honeysuckle from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan

Star jasmine

Although tiny, the flowers of star jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides, are highly fragrant. It does well on an east-facing wall that is shaded for part of the day, but gets some sun.

• Buy star jasmine from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan

Clematis viticella

Viticella clematis such as 'Black Prince', pictured, are tough varieties that can cover walls and fences fast, and many can grow in partial shade. Like all clematis, they do best with their roots in cool, moist shade.

• Buy Viticella clematis from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan

Chinese Virginia creeper

Turning a rich crimson as soon as the frosty nights arrive, Parthenocissus henryana is a fast-growing, self-clinging climber, ideal for a north- or east-facing boundary. Its colour will be more vibrant with a bit of sun during the day.

• Buy Chinese Virginia creeper from Crocus and Thompson & Morgan

Clematis alpina

Despite its dainty appearance, Clematis alpina is pretty tough and tolerates a fair degree of shade, as well as cold temperatures. Plant it cascading over a fence or a low wall for graceful spring flowers. It doesn't need pruning.

• Buy Clematis alpina from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan

Clematis x durandii

Enjoy indigo blooms all summer with this shrubby clematis, which has stems that are more likely to scramble than climb. To cover a boundary, tie stems to supports as they grow. Clematis x durandii does well with shade for some of the day, so thrives in most aspects.

• Buy Clematis x durandii from Burncoose Nurseries

Euonymus fortunei

Many varieties of Euonymus fortunei (also known as winter creeper) make attractive short climbers. They are self clinging once established, but will need support when they're first planted. The evergreen foliage looks good all year round and variegated varieties like 'Silver Queen' help to light up shady areas.

• Buy Euonymus fortunei 'Silver Queen' from Crocus

Akebia quinata

This spring-flowering climber has maroon to chocolate-coloured blooms with a spicy fragrance. The leaves are a fresh green but take on a purple tint in autumn. Chocolate vine is easy to grow in partial shade, and in warm winters this semi-evergreen plant may keep most of its leaves.

• Buy Akebia quinata from Crocus

Winter jasmine

Jasminum nudiflorum will grow in partial shade, so makes a good choice for an east-facing wall or fence. It adds colour at a time of year when there's not many flowers around, blooming between January and March on bare stems.

• Buy winter jasmine from Crocus or Thompson & Morgan

Climbing hydrangea

This is an attractive climber for a north-facing wall with white flowers that appear between May and July. It's self clinging so you don't even need to put up wires and once established it will grow vigorously to cover a boundary.

• Buy climbing hydrangea from Crocus

Frequently asked questions

What is the fastest growing climber for a north-facing wall?

Some of the fastest climbers include ivy and Virginia creeper. Ivy is a great choice for covering a shady wall or fence. Not only is it a fast grower, but it's good for wildlife, too, providing shelter for a variety of species, leaves for caterpillars of the holly blue butterfly, nectar-rich flowers for bees nd berries for birds. Virginia creeper will cover a wall quickly and has striking autumn colour, but it's not a good choice for a small garden as it's extremely vigourous.

Which climbers for shade are evergreen? 

Evergreen climbers for shade include pyracantha and Henry's honeysuckle. Pyracantha is a good choice for a north-facing wall or fence. It has several seasons of interest with evergreen leaves, orange or red berries and white flowers in the spring. Lonicera henryi has red and yellow flowers between June and July and will thrive in partial shade.

]]>New Year action planhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/new-year-action-plan/2025-12-24T10:00:08.000ZThere may not be much happening in the garden in January, but there's still plenty that you can be getting on with - burning off some of those Christmas calories at the same time.

Get ahead with key winter gardening jobs now, and you'll be all set for the planting and sowing frenzy that's just around the corner in spring.

Here are 10 jobs that you can be getting on with in January.

• The craziest gardening records ever
• Top trends for gardening in 2026
• New Year, new you: our top gardening resolutions for 2026

Clean up your pots

Brush off dirt with a hard-bristled brush. Check for damage and cracks, discarding any unusable pots, which can then be used as crocks.

Mulch for spring bulbs

Open up the compost heap and sprinkle a thin layer of garden compost as mulch. This will not only enrich the soil, but add a dark backdrop to set off the flowers of spring bulbs.

Collect snails

Tidy up around rocks, stacks of pots and piles of wood where snails hibernate and dispose of them. You may also see cabbage white chrysalises on fleece stored in the shed.

Clean the greenhouse

Take the time to get everything shipshape, cleaning greenhouse glazing inside and out to get rid of dirt that has built up over the past year.

Make willow plant supports

They're easy to make, and make attractive features too. Find out how to make willow supports.

Get your pruning done

Branches will hang lower when they're full of leaves, so it's worth cutting back now while still bare. It's a good time to prune apples and pears, but wait until summer and the sap has risen to prune stone fruits.

What to prune in winter

Warm the soil for sowing

Cover the ground with black plastic to trap the heat of the sun or put up tunnel cloches before extra-early outdoor sowings of rocket and spring salad mixes next month.

Tidy up roses

Train climbing varieties to wires with twine, taking out old and crossing wood and tie in vigorous shoots for this year's flowers.

Order in supplies

Source bark chippings for paths from local councils and tree surgeons now, as there is plenty about.

Tidy up your shed and tools

If you want an excuse to escape to the shed or garage on really cold days, have a good tidy up and sort out those tools. Make more space for yourself by putting up hooks, so you can hang your spades and forks out of the way.

Find out how to protect your plants in winter weather, in this video guide with David Hurrion:

View Green Video on the source website]]>Find out your soil typehttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/find-out-your-soil-type/2025-12-03T15:57:14.000ZKnowing your soil type is very important, as it determines which plants will thrive and to choose the plants best suited to your garden.

There are six main types of soil: chalky, clay, loamy, peaty, sandy and silty. To test your soil, you need to take a look at it and feel it. Add water and try rolling it between your hands. Observe how your soil looks and feels, and whether it's sticky, gritty, friable, or slimy. Watch our video guide to testing your soil texture.

Depending on the size of your plot, test the soil from different areas, as it can vary enormously. If possible, create main planting areas where the soil is good, saving poorer conditions for hard landscaping, where soil quality is less important.

Most soils benefit from some improvement. You can improve soil by incorporating organic matter, such as manure or home-grown compost.

In addition to knowing your soil type, you'll also need to check its pH. In this No Fuss Guide, David Hurrion shows how to test the soil in your garden to check whether it is acid, alkaline or neutral. He describes the different kits on the market and shows how to collect the soil from your garden:

View Green Video on the source website

Here's how to identify the main soil types.

Chalky soil

Chalky soil is alkaline, stony and free draining, as it often overlays a chalk or limestone bedrock. Minerals such as iron and manganese will quickly leach out of the soil, but this can be remedied to an extent by regularly adding fertiliser. Chalky or lime-rich soil may be light or heavy. Find out more about plants for alkaline soils.

Clay soil

Clay soil warms up slowly in spring and goes hard and cracks when dry. It also drains poorly. Although it's hard to dig, it's very high in nutrients. It feels lumpy, slimy and sticky when wet. It rolls into a ball easily and stays in shape. Find out more about flowering plants for clay soil.

Loamy soil

Loam is the perfect soil type, as it's easy to work, is not too free draining or prone to waterlogging, and is packed with nutrients. It also warms up quickly in spring. Loam is made up of a mixture of clay, sand and silt, which each have differently sized soil particles. It rolls into a ball easily, but won't keep its shape as well as clay soil.

Peaty soil

Soils containing lots of peat are acidic and high in organic matter, but low in nutrients. Peaty soil holds plenty of moisture and can get waterlogged, but it's ideal for growing acid lovers such as rhododendrons and azaleas. Peaty soil is dark in colour and feels spongy if squeezed. It's rarely found in gardens.

Sandy soil

Sandy soil is free draining, easy to work and warms up quickly in spring. However it dries out rapidly and leaches nutrients when it rains, so it needs plenty of added organic matter to retain moisture and feed the plants. It's gritty to touch. A rolled ball of sandy soil will crumble away easily. Discover plants for light and stony soil.

Silty soil

Silty soil is made from quite fine particles, so is free draining but also retains moisture. It's also higher in nutrients than sandy soil. It can get compacted easily. Silty soil is smooth to the touch. It rolls into a ball easily, but won't keep its shape as well as clay soil.

Get to know more about soil on World Soil Day.

]]>Plants for light and stony soilhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/plants-for-light-and-stony-soil/2025-12-02T08:42:55.000ZSoils that are sandy or stony are described as 'dry' because water drains through them quickly. They are easy to cultivate and warm up quickly in spring.

The downside is that plants can suffer from a lack of both water and food, because nutrients are soluble and soon get washed through. Improving the structure of the soil with organic matter such as well rotted manure or garden compost can help hugely with this.

The trick with dry soils is to choose drought-tolerant plants. You are also more likely to have success with borderline hardy, exotic plants, as they are more able to survive winter cold if they don't have wet roots.

More advice on your soil type:

• Find out your soil type
• Types of organic matter for soil (video)
• Testing your soil pH (video)
• World Soil Day

Here are some great plants for dry soils to try.

Star jasmine

Trachelospermum jasminoides likes a sunny sheltered site in milder areas of the UK. This climber has highly scented, starry blooms in summer and autumn, and evergreen foliage.

Golden oats

Stipa gigantea is an elegant ornamental grass with tall, light-catching flowerheads that ripen to gold, providing interest through to spring. Plant it in sun or light shade.

Japanese rose

Rosa rugosa is one of the few roses that likes light soil, even sand. Choose 'Alba' or 'Rubra' for large white or pink flowers followed by red hips. Plant in sun or part shade.

Lavender

Lavender offers aromatic foliage along with pretty summer flowers beloved by bees. Varieties such as lavender 'Hidcote' are ideal as border edgings or low hedges in full sun.

Mexican fleabane

A ground-covering perennial, Erigeron karvinskianus self-seeds freely into paving and walls. It's covered in small pinky-white daisies from spring to autumn. It likes sun or part shade.

Pinks

The fragrant summer blooms of dianthus are usually pink, but varieties can range from white to red. These perennials are ideal for raised beds and rockeries in full sun.

Buddleja

Buddleja thrives in poor soil and has the added advantage of being extremely attractive to butterflies, hence its common name, the butterfly bush. Cut back hard every spring.

Add organic matter

Add plenty of organic matter such ashomemade compost, well-rotted manure or a soil improver - it will hold onto water and nutrients. Dig into a depth of 1-2 spades before planting and add more every spring.

]]>What to plant in Decemberhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/what-to-plant-december/2025-12-01T11:23:21.000ZPlenty of vegetable and flower seeds can be sown in the UK in December. Some can be sown outside, direct in the ground, while others need to be sown in a heated propagator indoors. Young plants of some hardy varieties can be planted, too.

December is a good time to plant as it means you can get ahead before spring. Sowing vegetables and flowers early can result in earlier harvests – winter-sown broad beans are ready to harvest from May, while hardy annual flowers sown in December can flower several weeks sooner than those sown in spring. Sowing and planting in December can mean fewer empty beds and more roots holding the soil together, which can prevent a loss of soil nutrients and erosion in winter rains.

As well as starting plants from seed, there's plenty of fruit bushes, shrubs and trees that can be planted during mild spells in December. It's a good time to buy bare-root trees, which can be planted between October and March. We've listed some ideas below including garlic, blackberries and gooseberries for crops to enjoy next year, or shrubs and trees like skimmia and acer for autumn and winter interest.

Vegetables to sow in December

Broad beans

When to harvest: May to August

How to grow: sow broad beans in December for a crop as early as May. Sow direct outdoors if conditions are mild – broad bean seeds should germinate within a couple of weeks and will then stop growing and enter dormancy until temperatures pick up in spring. In cold conditions or areas, sow into pre-warmed soil beneath cloches or fleece, or in multi-celled trays in a greenhouse or on a windowsill, which you can plant out later.

• How to grow broad beans
• Buy broad beans from Thompson & Morgan

Onions

When to harvest: June to September

How to grow: Boxing Day is the traditional day to sow onion seeds. Choose seeds, rather than sets, and start them off in pots indoors or undercover, to aid germination. Plant the young onion plants out in spring, spacing them 10cm apart.

• How to grow onions
• Buy onion seeds from Suttons

Garlic

When to harvest: June to August

How to grow: in mild regions, you can plant garlic sets outdoors in well drained soil. If you have a heavy soil then start them off in a multi-celled tray, planting one clove per cell. Water well and keep in a greenhouse or similar until spring, and then plant them out 10-15cm apart.

• How to grow garlic
• Buy garlic sets from Crocus

Lettuce

When to harvest: May to November

How to grow: certain lettuce cultivars, such as 'Winter Gem', have been specially bred for their ability to grow at low temperatures and provide a harvest. Sow in pots in an unheated greenhouse or a cold frame, for the best results.

• How to grow lettuce
• Buy winter lettuce seeds from Thompson & Morgan

Lamb's lettuce

When to harvest: October to February

How to grow: lamb's lettuce, also called corn salad, has been grown and eaten for centuries in the winter months. Simply sow the seeds in an unheated greenhouse, and enjoy the freshly picked leaves soon after.

• How to grow corn salad
• Buy lamb's lettuce from Thompson & Morgan

Mizuna

When to harvest: January to December

How to grow: mizuna can be sown in the greenhouse, or on the windowsill, and will crop throughout winter if temperatures remain mild (if they enter dormancy they will start growing again when temperatures increase). The young salad leaves can be used to pep up dishes like soups, salads and stir fries.

• How to grow mizuna
• Buy mizuna from Suttons

Microgreens

When to harvest: January to December

How to grow: microgreens are the seedlings of leafy herbs and plants that we would usually allow to grow to full size before harvesting. Sow and grow them indoors for a burst of flavour on dishes throughout winter.

• How to grow microgreens
• Buy microgreens from Thompson & Morgan

Fruit to grow in December

Rhubarb

When to harvest: June to July

How to grow: bare-root rhubarb crowns can be planted between November and March, but avoid any time that the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Plant so that the tip of the crown (which will be where the leaves come from) is just above the soil surface. Firm in well after planting.

• How to grow rhubarb
• Buy rhubarb from Thompson & Morgan

Gooseberries

When to harvest: June to August

How to grow: plant bare-root gooseberry plants between October and March, avoiding any times when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. Plant so that the soil mark on the stem is level with the soil surface and firm in well. Planting this month will give plants time to establish before the spring.

• How to grow gooseberries
• Buy gooseberries from Thompson & Morgan

Raspberries

When to harvest: June to October

How to grow: plant raspberry canes between October and March, apart from when the ground is frozen or very wet. Line up the soil mark on the canes with the soil surface, covering the roots with about 5cm of soil. Firm in gently and water in.

• How to grow raspberries
• Buy raspberry canes from Thompson & Morgan

Blackberries

When to harvest: June to October

How to grow: plant bare-root blackberries (stools) between October and March. Soak the stools before planting and bury them up to the old soil mark. Firm the plants in and water well.

• How to grow blackberries
• Buy blackberries from Suttons

Flowers to grow in December

Sweet peas

Flowers: June to October

How to grow: although sweet peas are usually sown in autumn or early spring, it's fine to sow in December as long as you keep the seedlings frost free. They will need to be sown under cover, whether that's in a greenhouse, cold frame or porch. Sow into root trainers or cardboard tubes to help minimise root disturbance.

• How to grow sweet peas
• Buy sweet peas from Crocus

Laurentia

Flowers: June to October

How to grow: laurentia are bushy, half-hardy annuals, with star-shaped, scented flowers. The seeds can be sown under glass in winter, in a bright spot. These are usually sown January to March but could be sown at the end of the month in a heated propagator. This will help to warm the soil when sowing.

• Buy laurentia seeds from Thompson & Morgan

Geraniums (pelargoniums)

Flowers: June to October

How to grow: Geraniums are often propagated by taking cuttings, but why not try growing them from seed, too? Ideally, surface sow in a heated propagator, in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

• How to grow geraniums
• Buy geraniums from Thompson & Morgan

Snapdragons (antirrhinum)

Flowers: June to September

How to grow: though usually grown as annuals or biennials, snapdragons are actually short-lived perennials. They're easy to grow, and can be sown under glass near the end of December, to flower from June onwards.

• How to grow snapdragons
• Buy snapdragon seeds from Thompson & Morgan

Shrubs and trees to grow in December

Skimmia japonica

Flowers: April to May

How to grow: plant skimmia in a partially shaded spot in well drained, fertile soil. These evergreen plants have scented flowers in spring and many varieties also have bright berries in the autumn. 'Rubella' has red flower buds that last through autumn and winter, with white scented flowers in the spring, while Skimmia japonica subsp. reevesiana has bright red berries in winter.

• How to grow skimmia
• Buy skimmias from Crocus

Sarcococca confusa (sweet box)

Flowers: January to March

How to grow: plant this evergreen shrub for scented flowers in late winter. It's evergreen so a useful plant for adding structure to borders or a container, and it can thrive in dry shade once established. Plant it in well-drained soil, with the top of the root ball level with the surrounding soil. Water regularly until it has put down roots.

• How to grow Sarcococca confusa
• Buy skimmias from Crocus

Japanese maple

How to grow: Japanese maples, also known as acers, can be planted between October and March. Choose a sheltered position. Maples will thrive in most soils but avoid any sites that are prone to waterlogging. Compact varieties can also be grown in containers. Fill these with loam-based compost or a compost that is specifically for trees and shrubs.

• How to grow Japanese maples
• Buy Japanese maples from Crocus

]]>10 plants for sandy soilhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/10-plants-for-sandy-soil/2025-11-25T15:30:29.000ZIf your soil feels gritty to the touch, you most likely have sandy soil. An easy way to tell is by rolling a ball of soil in your hands – sandy soil will crumble away easily.

Not sure what soil type you have? Find out how to test your soil type and learn more about soil on World Soil Day.

Sandy soil is free draining, easy to work and warms up quickly in spring. It also dries out rapidly and leaches nutrients when it rains, so it is vital to add plenty of added organic matter, such as well rotted manure or garden compost, to retain moisture and feed the plants.

Sandy soils are often acidic, so it's worth testing yours – find out how to test your soil pH.

As ever, it is best to choose the plants that suit your garden's conditions. Here are 10 plants that thrive in sandy soil.

Hardy geraniums

Hardy geraniums (cranesbills) are versatile plants that look good in any type of planting scheme and do well in sun or shade. They flower for months on end in summer, in shades of pink, white, purple and blue, offering a long season of pollen and nectar for a number of pollinators, particularly bees.

Tulips

All bulbs, including tulips, do well in sandy soils – they thrive in well-drained soil, as they are less inclined to rot. There are hundreds of tulips, in a wide range of colours, to choose from – browse our plant database for tulips to grow and read our tulip Grow Guide for practical growing advice.

Lavender

Lavender thrives in well drained, poor soil so is perfect for a sandy soil. With its evergreen leaves and compact shape, it's the perfect plant for a sunny spot. Most varieties have purple flowers, but some cultivars come in dark blue, white or pink. They are extremely attractive to bees, butterflies and hoverflies.

Verbena bonariensis

Verbena bonariensis has tall stems topped with flattened heads of lavender-purple flowers for many months in summer. It's perfect for bringing height to an ornamental border and also works well in prairie-style planting schemes. It's a superb butterfly plant, rivalling even buddleja. Grow in a sunny spot.

Cistus

Cistus (rock rose) are attractive, bushy, evergreen shrubs with white or pink flowers. They flower in late spring, bridging the gap between spring and summer. They're idea for growing in rock gardens and containers, and work well with other Mediterranean shrubs such as rosemary and lavender.

Helianthemum

Helianthemum, also known as rock roses, are reliable, easy-going shrubby plants that can be guaranteed to put on a good show throughout early and mid summer. They are perfect for growing at the front of a mixed sunny border or rock garden. Grow in full sun. Plants may need protection during harsh winters.

Salvias

Salvias (perennial sages) look wonderful in ornamental borders, producing summer-long displays of spiky, nectar-rich flowers. They come in a huge range of colours. For best results grow in a sunny, sheltered spot and deadhead spent blooms regularly to encourage flowers into mid-autumn.

Phormium

With their elegant, long and evergreen leaves, phormiums (New Zealand flax) add an architectural touch to any garden. They make a good focal point in gravel gardens and large borders, and are well suited to seaside gardens because of their tolerance of salty winds. Grow in a sunny spot.

Achilleas

Achilleas (yarrow) have feathery foliage and striking flat, circular heads of flowers throughout the summer. They look good in all kinds of planting schemes, including cottage gardens and prairie schemes. They attract a wide range of pollinators, too. Grow in a sunny spot.

Allium

Alliums have pompon-shaped flowers on tall stems in spring and early summer and are a fantastic choice for a sunny border. They come mostly in shades of purple and look fabulous planted in drifts. Plant the bulbs in autumn – they should come back year after year.

Tips for improving sandy soil

• Adding organic matter helps to retain moisture and will release nutrients.
• Use garden compost, council green waste, manure or spent mushroom compost.
• Watch our video guide to the types of organic matter.
• Try to add around two bucketfuls per square metre to borders.
• Add four bucketfuls per square metre to areas where you intend to grow fruit or veg.
• You can dig the organic matter into the soil or spread it on the surface as a mulch.
• If you don't have enough organic matter, concentrate on one area at a time.
• Water newly planted plants in well, and continue while they establish.
• Mulch around newly planted plants to keep moisture in the soil.
• Spring is the best time to dig sandy soil.

More plants for sandy soil

• Acanthus (bear's breeches). Try Acanthus mollis, Acanthus mollis 'Whitewater' or Acanthus spinosus

• Alcea (hollyhock)

• Alstroemeria

• Buddleja (butterfly bush)

• Centaurea (knapweed)

• Crocosmia (montbretia)

• Dianthus (pinks)

• Echinops (globe thistle - pictured)

• Erigeron (Mexican daisy)

• Eryngium (wallflower)

• Euphorbia

• Gaura

• Daylilies (Hemerocallis)

• Hylotelephium (sedum)

• Kniphofia (red hot poker)

• Lupinus (lupin)

• Nepeta (catmint)

• Papaver (poppy)

• Penstemon

• Perovskia

• Santolina

• Stachys (lamb's ears)

• Vinca

• Yucca

• Mediterranean herbs

• Ornamental grasses

]]>What is Schedule 9? Understanding the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/schedule-9/2025-11-01T10:24:45.000ZThe Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 is an Act of Parliament designed to protect native species of animals and plants in England and Wales. It also covers nature conservation, the countryside, National Parks and Public Rights of Way.

Why was the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 introduced?

The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 was introduced to strengthen laws protecting native species of plants and animals, to protect important wildlife and conservation sites, and to provide safeguards against the spread of invasive non-native species.

Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 – Schedule 9

Schedule 9 is the part of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 that lists non-native species already established in the wild which pose a threat to wildlife and habitat conservation. It also controls reintroduction programmes of some native species, such as the barn owl.

The section of particular relevance for gardeners is the list of plant species that are illegal to plant or otherwise cause to grow in the wild in England and Wales. There's similar legislation for Scotland and Northern Ireland.

A selection of the most common Schedule 9 species are listed below.

Schedule 9 plant list

These are the Schedule 9 plants you're most likely to come across. A full list of plants can be found on the Government website.

The letters after the plant indicate whether it's on Schedule 9 in England and Wales (E&W), Northern Ireland (NI) or the Republic of Ireland (RI). In Scotland, it's an offense to plant any non-native plant in the wild or to cause it to grow in the wild. The law in Scotland is also more restrictive about invasive species growing in gardens.

Aquatic plants

Aquatic plants can be particularly problematic as they're easily transferred from pond to pond (for example, on the feet of birds or with other aquatic plants) and can become extremely invasive in the wild. By choosing native pond plants, you can eliminate these risks.

• Waterweeds (Elodea spp.) E&W, NI, RI – waterweeds are oxygenators, but they grow and spread very vigorously. Instead choose native oxygenators such as hornwort
• Fringed waterlily (Nymphoides peltata) NI, RI – in place of fringed waterlily, there are many other waterlilies to choose from. Only one of these, Nymphaea alba, is native to the UK, and it's suitable only for larger ponds
• Water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) E&W, NI, RI (now banned from sale in NI) – water lettuce is an evergreen floating perennial
• Water soldier (Stratiotes aloides) NI – generally thought to be native to East England and introduced elsewhere, water soldier is a floating plant with white flowers. Alternative floating plants to water lettuce and water soldier include frogbit and common water crowfoot

In addition, the following aquatic plants have been banned from sale in the UK:

• Water fern (Azolla filiculoides)
• Parrot's feather (Myriophyllum aquaticum)
• Floating pennywort (Hydrocotyle ranunculoides)
• New Zealand Pygmyweed (Crassula helmsii)
• Water Primrose (Ludwigia peploides, Ludwigia grandiflora, Ludwigia uruguayensis)

Trees and shrubs

• Hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn) NI, RI – in place of sea buckthorn, try salt-tolerant coastal favourites, such as tamarisk (though it's considered invasive in the US), elaeagnus, and other plants suitable for coastal gardens
• Rhododendron luteum (yellow azalea) E&W
• Rhododendron ponticum E&W, RI
• Rhododendron ponticum × Rhododendron maximum E&W, RI – all three Schedule 9 rhododendrons can be replaced with less invasive species of azalea and rhododendron

Climbers and wall shrubs

• Cotoneaster horizontalis E&W – there are several other less popular cotoneaster species that are also on the Schedule 9 list, so it's best to check before you buy, to ensure the cotoneaster species you've chosen isn't considered invasive
• Lonicera japonica (Japanese honeysuckle) NI – in place of Japanese honeysuckle, consider Lonicera periclymenum, our native honeysuckle and a magnet for wildlife
• Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) E&W – Chinese Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus henryana) is a more compact species, making it more suitable for smaller spaces

Ground cover

• Pirri-pirri bur (Acaena spp.) NI
• Allium paradoxum (few-flowered leek) E&W, NI, RI
• Allium triquetrum (three-cornered garlic) E&W, RI
• Carpobrotus edulis (Hottentot fig) E&W, NI, RI
• Lamiastrum galeobdolon subsp. argentatum  (variegated yellow archangel) E&W

Alternatives to these invasive ground-cover plants include primrose, wood sorrel, wood anemone, yellow archangel, ground ivy and wood forget-me-not.

Other plants

• Hyacinthoides hispanica (Spanish bluebell) NI, RI – choose native bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) or other woodland plants to grow instead of planting invasive Spanish bluebells
• Crocosmia × crocosmiiflora (montbretia) E&W – cultivated varieties of Crocosmia are less likely to become invasive, so these are your best option instead of montbretia
• Fallopia japonica (Japanese knotweed) E&W, NI, RI – there are many ornamental plants that could take the place of Japanese knotweed – if you can manage to get rid of it
• Gunnera manicata (Brazilian giant rhubarb) RI – both Gunnera manicata and Gunnera tinctoria are now banned from sale in the UK under EU Regulations on Invasive Alien Species (see below). But there are several compact gunnera that are more suitable for growing in gardens
• Rosa rugosa (Japanese rose) E&W – rather than growing Japanese roses, choose other rose species or varieties that are less invasive
• Rubus spectabilis (salmonberry) NI, RI – some Rubus species can be invasive and too vigorous for smaller gardens. If you'd like to grow berries to harvest, try raspberries, thornless blackberries or loganberries and, for winter stem and summer foliage colour, choose Rubus cockburnianus 'Golden Vale', which can be grown in a large container
• Smyrnium perfoliatum (perfoliate alexanders) E&W – if you're a flower arranger looking for chartreuse flowers and foliage, why not grow Bupleurum rotundifolium 'Griffithii', Chrysanthemum 'Tula Green' or Gladiolus 'Evergreen' instead?

What is the EU Regulation on Invasive Alien Species?

This is a list of invasive non-native plants that are considered of concern because of their invasiveness and ability to spread and establish in European countries, including the UK. It's illegal to import, keep, propagate, transport, sell, grow or cultivate these species, or permit them to reproduce. These regulations also apply to any live part of the plant (eg. seeds or cuttings) and hybrids or varieties of the species that might survive and reproduce.

Does it apply here?

The regulations are currently in force in the UK.

Plants list

Most of the species on the list are not ones you're likely to come across as garden plants. Here are the most often planted species (not including those already listed in Schedule 9 above). A full list can be found on the Government website.

• Ailanthus altissima (Tree of Heaven)
• Pennisetum setaceum (Fountain Grass)
• Gunnera tinctoria (Giant Rhubarb)
• Heracleum mantegazzianum (Giant Hogweed)
• Impatiens glandulifera (Himalayan Balsam)

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