BBC Gardeners World Magazinehttps://www.gardenersworld.com2026-05-19T18:23:49.000Zhourly12000-01-01T12:00+00:00How to grow and care for honeysucklehttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-honeysuckle/2026-05-17T09:24:24.000ZThis article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
Most of us think of honeysuckles as twining climbers with pretty, scented tubular flowers, perfect for covering walls, fences and pergolas. But there are also evergreen, shrubby types that make an excellent honeysuckle bush, hedging or topiary. Both belong to the genus Lonicera and there are many different cultivars, hailing from Europe, Asia, the Mediterranean and North America. Lonicera periclymenum (wild honeysuckle, common honeysuckle or woodbine) is native to the UK.
Climbing honeysuckles flower in summer, in shades of white, cream, lemon yellow, pink, orange and raspberry red. They're perfect plants for an informal or cottage garden style, and look good combined with roses for a romantic display. They are also a magnet for wildlife. The scent of their nectar-rich flowers attracts bees and butterflies during the day and moths at night – their colour changes slightly once pollinated. The red berries that follow are enjoyed by birds (but are poisonous to humans).
Climbing honeysuckles can be deciduous, semi-evergreen or evergreen, depending on the variety. Deciduous species tend to have a more spectacular display of flowers; the evergreen honeysuckle types bear smaller, less significant blooms but give foliage cover all year round.
Shrubby honeysuckles can be deciduous, semi-evergreen or fully evergreen. Evergreen types such as Lonicera nitida (now renamed as Lonicera ligustrina var. yunnanensis) have small leaves that are similar to those of box, and are often used to create a honeysuckle bush or hedge – even topiary. If you have had problems with box blight or box tree caterpillar on your box plants, Lonicera nitida makes a sensible alternative. Lonicera fragrantissima and Lonicera x purpusii are deciduous to semi-evergreen, and bear deliciously scented flowers in winter.
Jump to...
- Planting honeysuckle
- Caring for honeysuckle
- Pruning honeysuckle
- How to propagate honeysuckle
- Growing honeysuckle: problem-solving
- Buying honeysuckle
- Best honeysuckle to grow
Where to grow honeysuckle
All honeysuckles will grow in most soil types but prefer a fairly free-draining, humus-rich soil.
Climbing honeysuckles
Climbing honeysuckles are mostly woodland and hedgerow plants, so have evolved with their roots shaded by trees and shrubs, and their climbing tendrils growing into the light. Mimic these growing conditions if you can – climbing honeysuckles do better when their roots are in shade and their stems can reach sunlight.
The scent of climbing honeysuckle is stronger when plants are grown in a warm spot. A new variety, 'Strawberries and Cream', is low growing and more suitable for pots.
Shrubby honeysuckles
Shrubby honeysuckles such as winter honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima and Lonicera nitida will grow in full sun or partial shade.
When to plant honeysuckle
You can plant climbing honeysuckles all year round, but it's best to avoid planting in summer as the hot, dry conditions can lead to plant stress, or when the ground is frozen in winter. Deciduous honeysuckles are best planted in late winter.
How to plant honeysuckle
Honeysuckles have deep roots and need moisture-retentive soil, so are best planted in the ground, rather than pots. When planting any honeysuckle, dig in some well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost or well rotted manure, into the soil before planting. Dig a hole that is the same size as the rootball, and plant at the same depth as the plant was in the pot. Firm in wall, water deeply and finally mulch with organic matter to help with water retention.
Climbing honeysuckles will twine around supports but require a helping hand when young. If you're growing one against a wall or fence, put up some galvanised wires and lead the plant to these by guiding the stems with a bamboo cane, or tie them in to a support.
Many shrubby honeysuckles can be planted as cheaper, bare-root plants in autumn or winter. For a dense hedge, plant five small plants per metre.
Where to buy honeysuckle online
How to care for honeysuckle
Water all honeysuckles in dry spells in summer. Feed with a general-purpose fertiliser in spring to promote good growth and plenty of flowers.
Beware of the 'rain shadow' that can occur at the base of walls and fences, where rain doesn't reach the soil. Mulching around the base of climbing honeysuckles in spring with well-rotted manure or garden compost can help to retain moisture.
How to prune honeysuckle
Honeysuckle pruning depends on the type of honeysuckle you are growing - climbing or shrubby.
Climbing honeysuckles
Those that flower early in the summer should be pruned after flowering. Cut back by about one third to maintain a neat shape. Don't remove the dying flowerheads as these will become berries. Those that flower later in the summer should be pruned lightly in spring. These flower on the current season’s growth, so don't cut back too hard or you'll risk losing the flowers.
If your climbing honeysuckle is overgrown, renovate it in late winter by cutting it back hard. In this vintage clip from Gardeners' World, below, Joe Swift demonstrates how to prune honeysuckle growing on an obelisk.
View Green Video on the source website
Shrubby honeysuckles
Deciduous shrubby honeysuckles can be pruned after flowering in late spring or summer. If your plant is very overgrown, you can cut it back hard in late winter or early spring.
In this clip from Gardeners' World, below, Monty Don prunes a winter-flowering honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima, showing where and how much to cut in order to generate new shoots that will carry fragrant blooms next winter and early spring.
View Green Video on the source website
Evergreen shrubby honeysuckles such as Lonicera nitida, can be pruned in summer.
How to propagate honeysuckle
You can propagate honeysuckle by taking semi-ripe cuttings in July and August, when the wood of new stems is flexible but firm. In this video guide, Alan Titchmarsh demonstrates how to take cuttings from honeysuckle, to make new honeysuckle plants for free.
View Green Video on the source website
You can also propagate climbing honeysuckles by layering – bending a shoot down to soil level and encouraging it to root.
Climbing honeysuckles can be propagated from their berries. Extract the seeds from the berries and sow them straight away in pots of loamy compost. Leave the seeds in a cold frame over winter – they need an extended period of cold – and they should start to germinate in spring once temperatures rise to around 15°C.
Pests and diseases
Honeysuckle aphid can be a real problem for climbing honeysuckles. Leaves become distorted and curled as the sucking insects feed on the plant. The aphids excrete honeydew, which then leads to sooty mould. Plants that are in poor health are more prone to infestation. Prune out very badly infested shoots, or apply an organic insecticide as a last resort. Plants are less prone to aphid attack if they are grown in partial shade.
Honeysuckles can also be prone to powdery mildew – again, growing in partial shade can help prevent this, as can mulching around the base in spring.
What can I do to stop my honeysuckle leaves turning yellow and falling off?
Yellowing and falling leaves can indicate nutrient deficiency or simply a lack of water. Give your honeysuckle a good drink and feed with a liquid seaweed fertiliser or balanced organic plant food, and it should perk up.
If your honeysuckle stops flowering, there are a few things you can do to encourage flowers, as Alan Titchmarsh explains in the video below.
View Green Video on the source website
Advice on buying honeysuckle
- There's a wide range of honeysuckles to grow, including climbers and shrubby plants that are deciduous or evergreen. Make sure you choose the right one for your garden
- Bear in mind that specialist nurseries may offer more choice than garden centres
- Always check your plants for signs of disease and damage before buying or, if you bought them online, before planting
Honeysuckle varieties to grow
Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina'
Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina' is a vigorous, deciduous honeysuckle climber with scented, creamy-white flowers that are streaked with raspberry red. It holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). Height x Spread: 7m x 3.5m
Lonicera periclymenum 'Scentsation'
Lonicera periclymenum 'Scentsation', as its name suggests, has strongly scented flowers in shades of white and pale yellow, from midsummer to September. H x S: 7m x 1m
Lonicera 'Mandarin'
Lonicera 'Mandarin' is a new variety with striking but unscented orange flowers from June to August. It is a vigorous, deciduous climber. The new foliage is a rich-bronze colour, before maturing to deep green. It holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 6m x 2m
Lonicera japonica 'Halliana'
Lonicera japonica 'Halliana' is a vigorous evergreen honeysuckle that bears scented yellow and white flowers in summer. It has the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). It has a tendency to become invasive in certain situations. Lonicera japonica is considered an invasive non-native plant in Northern Ireland, where it's an offense to plant or cause it to grow in the wild. H x S: 3m x 4.5m
Lonicera periclymenum 'Rhubarb and Custard'
Lonicera periclymenum 'Rhubarb and Custard' is an attractive and compact deciduous climber with large, scented flowers. As the name suggests, these are custard-yellow tinged with rhubarb pink. Suitable for smaller gardens. H x S: 2m x 1.5m
Lonicera periclymenum 'Strawberries and Cream'
A new delightful, compact variety that doesn't climb, but forms a neat mounded shape. Its flowers, as its name suggests, are pink and pale yellow. It's perfect for growing at the front of a border and is ideal for pots. H x S: 60cm x 60cm
Lonicera periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’
Lonicera periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’ is a deciduous climbing honeysuckle with highly scented flowers from July to September; they start out white and turn butter yellow. It holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 7m x 1m
Lonicera fragrantissima
Lonicera fragrantissima is known as the winter honeysuckle as it bears white, highly scented flowers on the leafless branches from January to March. This deciduous shrub is fully hardy. H x S: 2m x 3m
Lonicera x purpusii 'Winter Beauty'
Lonicera x purpusii ‘Winter Beauty’ is one of the best winter-flowering shrubby honeysuckles, bearing sweetly fragrant creamy-white flowers on bare stems, from late winter. It makes an attractive spreading deciduous shrub. It holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 3m x 2m
Lonicera pileata
Lonicera pileata (box-leaved honeysuckle) is a dense evergreen shrub with small, box-like leaves, ideal for topiary or a dense, low-growing hedge. It bears small, creamy-white flowers in spring and purple berries in autumn. It is a good alternative to box if box blight or box tree caterpillar is a problem. H x S: 1m x 2.5m
Frequently asked questions
My honeysuckle has mildew - what can I do?
Honeysuckles are woodland plants that thrive in partial shade, ideally with their roots in shade and leaves in sunshine for half of the day. Powdery mildew often occurs when the roots become dry and could indicate that your honeysuckle is struggling.
Rather than spray the mildew with a fungicide, it's best to tackle the cause of the problem: dry roots. Keep your honeysuckle well watered during summer and mulch annually with bark chippings or homemade compost so the soil retains as much moisture as possible. You may also consider adding a piece of crock around the roots to further prevent evaporation from the soil, as you might with clematis. This should solve the problem immediately.
Why doesn't my honeysuckle have any scent?
Although honeysuckles are known for their strong fragrance, not all of them are scented (for example, Lonicera × tellmanniana), so it's important to check the label before buying. If you have a scented honeysuckle that's not producing any fragrance, then give the plant a good drink as moist soil and warm conditions are said to bring on the best fragrance of scented plants. Bear in mind that honeysuckles have evolved to be pollinated by moths so are more scented at night. So, if you are checking your flowers by day, check them again at dusk – you may find they smell more strongly in the evening.
How can I grow honeysuckle up a fence?
Climbing honeysuckles are not self-clinging, so need to be tied to a support, such as a trellis or series of tension wires fixed to the fence using vine eyes. It's a good idea to paint the fence before training climbers to grow up it, as it can be tricky to paint behind existing plants. If using tension wires, fix them both horizontally and vertically, so there is plenty of wire to tie the honeysuckle stems into.
]]>22 plants for pots and containershttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/top-10-plants-for-containers/2026-04-27T12:30:48.000ZPots and containers offer the gardener great versatility and are a fantastic way to experiment with planting and design. From short-term bedding displays to permanent features of small trees and topiary, planting in pots adds another dimension to the garden, softening corners, brightening dull spots and providing instant, yet easily changeable, results.
When choosing your pot, stick to just one or two different materials. Take your cue from the style of the house and garden – red brick buildings are enhanced by terracotta containers, while a modern plot is the best backdrop for galvanised metal pots. Bigger pots have more impact, and plants growing in them won't dry out as quickly, but an eclectic group of small containers creates a quirky, ever-changing scene. Repetition can be effective – garden designers often use three or more identical containers planted with the same plants, for maximum impact.
The best plants for pots and containers
Euonymus
Variegated foliage is a real pick-me-up all year round. For a striking display, try it with creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia), tulips, golden narcissi or primroses.
- Buy Euonymus fortunei 'Emerald 'n' Gold'from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, J Parker's and Suttons
Pittosporum tenuifolium
This elegant evergreen shrub is available in a range of varieties with differently coloured foliage. 'Tom Thumb' has rich chocolate-purple leaves that emerge a light-green colour before darkening. 'Variegatum' has beautiful grey-green foliage with creamy margins, and 'Golf Ball' is a compact variety with mint green leaves. Pittosporum tenuifolium is slightly tender, so it will need a sheltered spot over winter.
- Buy Pittosporum tenuifolium from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, J Parker's and Suttons
Skimmia japonica
Skimmia japonica is one of the best winter plants for pots. It has glossy evergreen leaves and an abundance of tiny red buds through the winter, which open to white, pinky-white or greenish flowers in spring. Female and hermaphrodite varieties develop red berries during autumn.
- Buy Skimmia japonica from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus and J Parker's
Hosta
Hostas make beautiful architectural plants and work well in containers, either alone or with other plants. Try combining with bleeding heart or other foliage plants such as heucheras.
- Buy hostas from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, J Parker's and Suttons
Fountain grass (Pennisetum advena 'Rubrum')
Fountain grass is a real show-stopper. Grow in large pots with alliums for dramatic impact or on its own to make a statement. Pennisetum advena 'Rubrum' has graceful stems and red-tinged, squirrel-tail flowers that fade to beige in autumn. Protect from frost in winter.
- Buy Pennisetum advena 'Rubrum' from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Buddleja 'Buzz'
Buddleias in the 'Buzz' series are compact, making them perfect for growing in pots. While they don't flower all year round and need to be pruned back in spring, they will form a perennial display that you can complement with other plants that flower at different seasons.
- Buy *Buddleja '*Buzz' from Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Van Meuwen
Hebe
Many hebes are compact enough to grow in pots. Most have evergreen leaves, and their flowers last well into autumn and even winter when conditions are mild. Flowers range in colour from pinks to purples and whites.
- Buy hebes from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, J Parker's and Suttons
Agapanthus
Agapanthus work well in pots, as they do best when their roots are slightly restricted. Grow them on their own, or pair them with other plants that flower at different times of year. Most agapanthus are evergreen, but there are some deciduous types.
- Buy Agapanthus from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus, Suttons, J Parker's and Sarah Raven
Cornus
Many varieties of dogwood, including cultivars of Cornus alba, Cornus sanguinea and Cornus sericea, have beautifully colourful winter stems and work well in pots. They make an excellent backdrop for other winter perennials, and you can choose plants (such as the lavender, hebe and phormium shown here), which will take centre stage when the leaves grow on the cornus stems in spring, dulling its display.
Heuchera
Heuchera is an evergreen foliage plant that comes in a range of vibrant colours. They're perfect for using as a foil for other plants and make excellent long-lasting displays.
- Buy Heuchera from Crocus and J Parker's
Phormium
Compact phormiums, such as ‘Chocomint’, ‘Jester’ and ‘Platt’s Black’, make ideal low-maintenance outdoor potted plants, creating architectural structure all year round. They can be combined with grasses and low-growing flowering plants to create eye-catching displays beside entrances, on patios or along paths.
- Buy phormium from Thompson & Morgan, Van Meuwen and Burncoose
Scented-leaf pelargonium
Scented-leaf pelargoniums (sometimes referred to as ‘scented-leaf geraniums’) are ideal for pots in full sun beside a path or entrance where their fragrance can be enjoyed as you brush past the foliage. As tender perennials, pelargoniums can be left in pots all year round as long as they're kept in a frost-free place over winter.
- Buy scented pelargoniums from Sarah Raven, J. Parker’s and Potash Nursery
Fuchsia
These attractive shrubs can be either hardy or tender perennials. Compact hardy fuchsias are a sustainable choice for garden pots as they will flower every summer, whereas tender varieties are often treated as annuals. Trailing varieties, such as ‘Patricia Hodge’, look fantastic spilling over the edge of hanging baskets.
- Buy fuchsias from Suttons, Thompson & Morgan and Crocus
Blueberry
Blueberry plants are low-maintenance shrubs with white bell flowers in spring, followed by delicious summer fruits, and then glorious autumn colour. With a wide range of varieties to choose from, it's possible to harvest blueberries throughout the summer. They're well suited to containers, but do need to be planted in peat-free ericaceous (acidic) compost.
- Buy blueberries from Sarah Raven, Dobies and Suttons
Hydrangea
More compact hydrangeas, like Hydrangea macrophylla 'Miss Saori' and 'Early Blue' (shown above), are perfect for large pots in a partially-shaded spot. If you buy a blue variety of Hydrangea macrophyllum or Hydrangea serrata, you'll need to plant it in peat-free ericaceous compost to ensure the pH stays below 5.5, which will maintain the blue colouration. Prune hydrangeas in spring.
- Buy hydrangeas from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Dobies
Roses
Patio roses are bred for smaller gardens and container growing. They're easy to grow – they just need a prune in spring and repotting if necessary. Most compact rose varieties suitable for pots have a lifespan of around 5-7 years.
- Buy patio roses from David Austin, Harkness Roses, World of Roses and Peter Beales
Clematis
Some clematis varieties with a more compact growth habit are particularly suitable for large containers. They need good drainage and sturdy supports to avoid damage from windy conditions.
- Buy compact clematis from Thorncroft and Raymond Evison Clematis
Azalea
Azaleas are deciduous or evergreen shrubs with vibrant flowers in a wide range of colours, usually in spring. They're well suited for pots, especially in gardens with alkaline soil, where they'd struggle in the ground. Azalea plants in containers need to be grown in peat-free ericaceous compost and watered with rainwater. They grow best in a sheltered position in full sun or partial shade.
- Buy azaleas from Crocus, Thomspon & Morgan and Dobies
Begonias
Ideal to bring colour and interest to areas in semi-shade, begonias thrive in pots of peat-free multi-purpose compost. Although often grown as annuals, most are tender perennials that can be brought in over winter (for fibrous begonias) or stored as tubers in the same way as dahlias (for tuberous begonias).
- Buy begonias from Suttons, Thompson & Morgan and Sarah Raven
Dahlia
With a vast range of varieties to choose from, dahlias come in almost every shape, colour and size. Ideally suited for pots, more compact varieties can be combined with other late summer-flowering perennials grown in containers to create flamboyant displays in hot colours, or used singly as specimen plants.
- Buy dahlias from Sarah Raven, Suttons and J. Parker’s
Chillies
Chilllies work well in containers and can be grown outside in the summer months. Plant them into peat-free, multi-purpose compost in a pot slightly larger than the rootball. Always let the compost dry out between waterings and feed weekly with a tomato fertiliser once flowers appear.
- Buy dahlias from Sarah Raven and Suttons
Jasmine
The best jasmine for pots is star jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides. Make sure the container is large as climbing plants need a lot of room to grow. Plant in a peat-free, loam-based compost like John Innes No. 2. Grow it against a south- or west-facing wall where it's protected from wind – in colder regions you may need to bring it indoors for winter.
- Buy dahlias from Sarah Raven and Suttons
How to plant up a pot
In this short video, Gabrielle Shay demonstrates how to plant up a pot to ensure it looks good and the plants stay healthy.
View Green Video on the source website
How to feed and water plants in pots
View Green Video on the source website
In this short video, Gabrielle Shay shows how to water plants in pots to keep them healthy, plus she explains when and what to feed your plants with.
Best plants for pots all year-round
The best plants for pots all year round include those with hardy evergreen foliage like yucca, English ivy, variegated euonymus and heuchera, and long-flowering plants like perennial wallflowers, Skimmia japonica and hebes. This is because they look better for longer. Evergreen plants should be paired with plants that flower at different times of year so there's always a contrasting focal point.
]]>Climbers for a shady wall or fencehttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/climbers-to-grow-in-shade/2026-04-24T08:36:22.000ZThis article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
Many gardens have shaded walls or fences. Even sunny south-facing gardens will have a north-facing boundary at the back of the garden, but walls and fences in a shadier areas are easily covered if you know what to plant. North and east-facing boundaries can be transformed by planting a surprising variety of attractive climbers. Some will do better on an east-facing boundary, which should get sun for part of the day, but there are also climbers for full shade.
In the video above, Alan Titchmarsh shares his best climbers for shade, including ivy, honeysuckle and star jasmine.
Here are practical ideas and top recommended plants for north- and east-facing walls and fences, including fast-growing climbers for shade and rose climbers for shade.
Rosa 'Wedding Day'
Rosa 'Wedding Day' is a fast-growing and fragrant rambler rose, perfect for covering a house wall or boundary in partial shade. It tolerates poor soil and a north-facing aspect, but does best in moist, well-drained soil with plenty of space to grow.
- Buy Rosa 'Wedding Day' from Crocus and David Austin
Ivy
Ivy thrives in deepest shade. Our native ivy, Hedera helix, has beautiful, lustrous, dark-green leaves. Variegated types will help to lighten up dark corners in the garden. As an alternative, consider Boston ivy.
- Buy ivy from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Honeysuckle
Honeysuckles such as Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina' (pictured) climb over walls and fences and many do well in some shade. They offer wonderful scent and great for wildlife.
- Buy honeysuckle from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Star jasmine
Although tiny, the flowers of star jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides, are highly fragrant. It does well on an east-facing wall that is shaded for part of the day, but gets some sun.
- Buy star jasmine from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Clematis viticella
Viticella clematis such as 'Black Prince', pictured, are tough varieties that can cover walls and fences fast, and many can grow in partial shade. Like all clematis, they do best with their roots in cool, moist shade.
- Buy Viticella clematis from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Chinese Virginia creeper
Turning a rich crimson as soon as the frosty nights arrive, Parthenocissus henryana is a fast-growing, self-clinging climber, ideal for a north- or east-facing boundary. Its colour will be more vibrant with a bit of sun during the day.
- Buy Chinese Virginia creeper from Crocus and Thompson & Morgan
Clematis alpina
Despite its dainty appearance, Clematis alpina is pretty tough and tolerates a fair degree of shade, as well as cold temperatures. Plant it cascading over a fence or a low wall for graceful spring flowers. It doesn't need pruning.
- Buy Clematis alpina from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Clematis x durandii
Enjoy indigo blooms all summer with this shrubby clematis, which has stems that are more likely to scramble than climb. To cover a boundary, tie stems to supports as they grow. Clematis x durandii does well with shade for some of the day, so thrives in most aspects.
- Buy Clematis x durandii from Burncoose Nurseries
Euonymus fortunei
Many varieties of Euonymus fortunei (also known as winter creeper) make attractive short climbers. They are self clinging once established, but will need support when they're first planted. The evergreen foliage looks good all year round and variegated varieties like 'Silver Queen' help to light up shady areas.
- Buy Euonymus fortunei 'Silver Queen' from Crocus
Akebia quinata
This spring-flowering climber has maroon to chocolate-coloured blooms with a spicy fragrance. The leaves are a fresh green but take on a purple tint in autumn. Chocolate vine is easy to grow in partial shade, and in warm winters this semi-evergreen plant may keep most of its leaves.
- Buy Akebia quinata from Crocus
Winter jasmine
Jasminum nudiflorum will grow in partial shade, so makes a good choice for an east-facing wall or fence. It adds colour at a time of year when there's not many flowers around, blooming between January and March on bare stems.
- Buy winter jasmine from Crocus or Thompson & Morgan
Climbing hydrangea
This is an attractive climber for a north-facing wall with white flowers that appear between May and July. It's self clinging so you don't even need to put up wires and once established it will grow vigorously to cover a boundary.
- Buy climbing hydrangea from Crocus
Frequently asked questions
What is the fastest growing climber for a north-facing wall?
Some of the fastest climbers include ivy and Virginia creeper. Ivy is a great choice for covering a shady wall or fence. Not only is it a fast grower, but it's good for wildlife, too, providing shelter for a variety of species, leaves for caterpillars of the holly blue butterfly, nectar-rich flowers for bees nd berries for birds. Virginia creeper will cover a wall quickly and has striking autumn colour, but it's not a good choice for a small garden as it's extremely vigourous.
Which climbers for shade are evergreen?
Evergreen climbers for shade include pyracantha and Henry's honeysuckle. Pyracantha is a good choice for a north-facing wall or fence. It has several seasons of interest with evergreen leaves, orange or red berries and white flowers in the spring. Lonicera henryi has red and yellow flowers between June and July and will thrive in partial shade.
]]>20 beautiful plants slugs and snails won't touchhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/20-beautiful-plants-slugs-and-snails-wont-touch/2026-03-29T16:36:27.000ZSlugs and snails can wreak havoc in the garden, demolishing seedlings and decimating the leaves of larger plants such as hostas. While slug pellets are an effective deterrent, those containing metaldehyde can harm hedgehogs and other wildlife, and other forms of slug control can be time-consuming and aren't guaranteed to work. In the video above, Alan Titchmarsh shares his favourite slug-proof plants.
It can be expensive and heartbreaking to keep growing the plants you know will be eaten completely or at least ravaged beyond recognition. So why not stop? There are plenty of beautiful plants that slugs aren't attracted to. Grow these instead, and not only will your garden be easier to manage, but you'll be happier, too, without the heartache of losing treasured plants to hungry molluscs.
Many plants have developed their own resistance to slugs and other leaf-munchers. Some, such as foxgloves and euphorbias, have toxic leaves, while others, such as stachys and pulmonaria, have developed thick or hairy foliage, which slugs and snails appear not to like. Swollen, succulent foliage such as those of sedums and sempervivums can deter slugs, too. In the vegetable patch, it's the aromatic and bitter-tasting leaves, such as endive and Mediterranean herbs, that appear to put slugs off.
Browse our list of the best plants to grow that slugs don't like to eat, below.
Aquilegia
Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata 'Yellow Star'
Aquilegias come in a variety of different colours and tolerate shade. They self-seed readily and are perfect for drifting through the border.
- Buy aquilegias from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Penstemon
Penstemon 'Pensham Laura'
Penstemons produce foxglove-like flowers, which look fantastic in informal and cottage garden schemes, and are extremely attractive to bumblebees.
- Buy penstemons from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Euphorbia
Euphorbia characias subsp wulfenii
Spurges have a milky sap that can irritate human skin and appears to be unpalatable to slugs and snails. This genus includes many plants, including annuals, perennials, shrubs and succulents. Their small flowers are held in cupped, often colourful bracts.
- Buy euphorbias from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Cranesbill geraniums
Hardy geraniums, commonly known as cranesbill geraniums or simply cranesbills, are reliable, sometimes invasive, but undeniably stunning, long-flowering plants. Within the genus there are tiny alpine types and substantial border plants. There’s a hardy geranium for nearly every garden situation.
- Buy hardy geraniums from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Ajuga reptans
Ajuga reptans
Ajuga reptans is a common plant related to the wild bugle but selected for its leaf colour and flower spikes. Its robust, evergreen and dark green foliage makes a good background to the upright spikes of dark blue flowers produced throughout late spring to mid-summer. Ajuga is a versatile plant, equally at home as ground cover under trees or shrubs as in a sunny flower border and even in containers. It’s especially useful as background foliage in winter containers of ivies, santolina and pansies.
- Buy Ajuga reptans from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Foxglove
Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea
Foxglove leaves contain the toxin digoxin, which is used in heart medicine but can also kill a person if taken in the wrong dose. These toxins also appear to be harmful to slugs and snails, as they avoid eating the leaves.
- Buy foxgloves from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Astrantia
Astrantia major
Astrantias are well-suited to growing under trees, preferably in moist soil. Their flowers attract bees and other pollinators, and their leaves are ignored by slugs and snails.
- Buy astrantias from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Alchemilla mollis
Alchemilla mollis
Alchemilla mollis has apple-green, fan-shaped leaves and lime-green flowers. It makes superb ground cover and can be grown in the sun or shade.
- Buy Alchemilla mollis from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Japanese anemone
Japanese anemones
Japanese anemones have rough leaves and bear pretty, daisy-like flowers from late summer to autumn. They can be invasive in some soils, so if you have a small garden, you might consider growing them in a container.
- Buy Japanese anemones from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Astilbe
False goatsbeard, astilbe, has showy plumes of dramatic flowers and fern-like foliage. It’s ideal for growing in shade, where its flowers add height and colour.
- Buy astilbes from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Hellebores
There are many hellebores to choose from, from the winter-flowering Helleborus x hybridus, a winter-flowering staple which bears large clusters of saucer-shaped flowers in white, pink, green, mauve or smoky purple, contrasting with large, leathery, evergreen leaves.
- Buy hellebores from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Lavender
View Green Video on the source website
Shrubby Mediterranean herbs tend not to be attacked by slugs and snails. This could be down to their woody habit or their oily, unpalatable leaves. Lavender is a fantastic slug-proof plant, bearing blue-green, fragrant leaves and purple, nectar-rich flowers. It is perfect for a sun-baked border or container.
- Buy lavender from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Campanula
Campanula
Campanulas include annuals and perennials – some of them evergreen – with bell-shaped, usually blue flowers. Some are used as ground cover while others grow to 2m in height.
- Buy campanula from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Heuchera
Heuchera
Coral bells are typically used in shady planting schemes. Grown for their foliage colour rather than their flowers, their leaves come in a range of colours from lime green to dark purple, like those on Heuchera ‘Palace Purple’**. They bear spikes of white-pink flowers in summer.
- Buy heuchera from Crocus, Suttons and Thompson & Morgan
Crocosmia
Flowering in autumn, Crocosmia 'Lucifer' provide a burst of late pollen and nectar for a number of pollinators. Strap-like leaves act as the perfect foil for orange-red blooms.
- Buy crocosmias from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Cyclamen
Hardy cyclamen flower in early spring and late autumn, when little else is flowering. They're perfect for naturalising under trees or in a shady border.
- Buy cyclamen from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Ferns
Ferns come in a range of shapes and sizes, from tiny ones that can grow in cracks in walls, to large tree ferns grown as a statement piece. Shade loving, they tolerate a range of soil conditions and are easy to grow.
- Buy ferns from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Fuchsias
Fuchsias bear attractive, pendent flowers throughout summer. The less hardy varieties are used in summer bedding schemes and containers. Some are hardy enough to be grown as a hedge or specimen shrub.
- Buy fuchsias from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Nasturtiums
Nasturtium is an annual climber bearing large, trumpet-shaped blooms in red, maroon or yellow. Its blooms are popular with bees and other pollinators. Its leaves are extremely water-resistant, and while they're a popular foodplant of large and small white butterflies, slugs and snails won't eat them.
- Buy nasturtium from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
Hydrangeas
Woody hydrangeas are unpalatable to slugs and snails. They come in various forms, with mophead and lacecap flowers. Try growing climbing hydrangea, Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, for a slug-proof cover of a wall or fence.
- Buy hydrangea from Crocus, Sarah Raven and Thompson & Morgan
]]>From bag to bumper crop - how to grow potatoes anywherehttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/from-bag-to-bumper-crop-how-to-grow-potatoes-anywhere/2026-03-12T10:44:35.000ZThis article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
From earthy new potatoes and bite-sized salad varieties, to floury bakers and roasters, the humble potato remains the nation’s favourite vegetable. If you’re a potato aficionado, there's a huge number of exciting potato varieties you can grow that you’ll never see in the shops. You don't even need a garden to grow them – many grow very happily in large bags or pots on a balcony or patio.
There are three main types of potato to grow, named according to when you plant and harvest them.
First early or ‘new’ potatoes are the earliest to crop, in June and July. They don't store for long so are best eaten fresh.
Second earlies (also called ‘new’ potatoes) take a few more weeks to mature and are harvested in July and August. These also don't store for long, so are best eaten fresh.
Maincrop potatoes take the longest to mature and are harvested from August to October. They are suitable for baking, roasting and mashing, and can be stored for a few months.
How to grow potatoes at home
Potatoes are easy to grow – one seed potato will produce many potatoes to harvest. Prepare the soil by digging and removing weeds, and then dig straight trenches 12cm deep and 60cm apart. In spring, plant seed potatoes 30cm apart and cover them with soil to fill the trench. When the shoots reach 20cm tall, use a rake, hoe or spade to mound soil up around the bases of the shoots, covering the stems half way. This is called earthing up. You can also grow first early and second early potatoes in a large bag on a patio or balcony, regularly covering the bottoms of stems with more compost as they grow.
More expert advice on growing potatoes:
- Potato types explained
- Grow great jacket potatoes
- 10 best salad potatoes to grow
- Maincrop potatoes to grow
- How to grow potatoes in a bag
- Should you delay planting potatoes after wet weather?
Growing potatoes: jump links
- Planting potatoes
- Caring for potatoes
- Growing potatoes: problem-solving
- Harvesting potatoes
- Eating and storing potatoes
- Where to buy potatoes
- Potato varieties to grow
When to plant potatoes
First early potatoes can be planted from mid-March, while second earlies should be planted a couple of weeks later. Maincrop potatoes are usually planted in late April or early May and need to stay in the ground longer to produce a good crop. However, planting times vary across the country – planting in northerly areas should be delayed by a couple of weeks, depending on temperatures and risk of frost.
If you have a greenhouse it's possible to plant a second batch of potatoes in late summer, which will yield a crop for Christmas Day.
How to chit potatoes
Before planting, many people 'chit' their early potatoes. This involves letting the potatoes grow short, strong, stubby shoots, which will allow them to start growing more quickly after planting. Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the end that has the most eyes uppermost. Stand in a cool, light spot until short shoots have formed, or when it's time to plant them out.
Should I rub shoots off my chitted potatoes?
Seed potatoes only need one or two shoots to grow, so if you've chitted your seed potatoes and they have more shoots, you can just rub off any extras with your fingers. Our video guide explains more about whether or not to rub extra shoots off your chitted potatoes.
View Green Video on the source website
How to plant potatoes
You can grow your own potatoes by planting out 'seed potatoes', which are small tubers rather than actual seeds. You can buy seed potatoes from late winter. Don't be tempted to use old potatoes from the veg rack as they won't produce reliable crops.
Home-grown potatoes do well in all types of soil, but the richer the better, so dig in plenty of well-rotted organic matter such as garden compost. An open, sunny site is best.
While maincrop potatoes grow well in the ground, early or salad potatoes will also do well in large pots and bags. Polypropylene potato growing bags are designed especially for this purpose and are handy if you're short of space. However, you can also plant potatoes in an old compost bag, with similar results.
Here, Monty explains how to grow potatoes in a bag:
View Green Video on the source website
When growing potatoes in the ground, plant earlies and salad types 10-15cm deep and 30cm apart, with 60cm between rows. Maincrop potatoes require more space to produce a decent crop. Plant them 40cm apart, with 75cm between rows. Plant potatoes with the shoots (or 'eyes') facing upwards.
Growing potatoes in a raised bed? Monty shows you how:
View Green Video on the source website
Where to buy potatoes online
Growing potatoes: caring for your crop
Water potatoes during warm, dry spells but avoid wetting the foliage unnecessarily, and keep the soil free of weeds. As the potato plants grow, use a spade or hoe to cover the shoots with soil to encourage the development of more tubers from the buried stems. This is called ‘earthing up’. Leave the top few centimetres poking out the top. As plants continue to grow you will need to earth them up again.
Watch Monty explain how to earth up potatoes growing in a bag:
View Green Video on the source website
Growing potatoes: problem-solving
Slugs can be a problem, especially if growing potatoes under black plastic.
Potato blight is a fungal disease which turns foliage yellow with dark patches and causes the tubers to rot. Grow a blight-resistant potato variety to avoid the problem. You can also cut the potato plants down at the first sign of infection, as the fungus will not have reached the tubers by that stage. Then harvest the tubers as soon as you can.
Never grow potatoes in the same soil year after year as this could lead to a build up of pests and diseases. These include potato eelworm, which causes stunted growth and poor cropping.
When to harvest potatoes
First early potatoes are harvested in June and July, when the potatoes are about the size of a large hen’s egg (gently rummage around in the soil to check). Cut the potato plants (also known as haulms) to the ground, then gently prise the plants out of the ground with a fork. First early potatoes don't store well, so dig them up in batches, as and when you want to eat them.
Second earlies are harvested in July and early August. Harvest in the same way as first earlies. Again, these potatoes don't store well, so dig them up in batches, as and when you want to eat them.
Maincrop potatoes are harvested from August to October, when the leaves on the plants have turned yellow and died down. Choose a dry day to dig up your crop so that they store better, ideally in the morning. Cut the plants to the ground and dig up your potatoes, discarding any that are bruised or have been attacked by pests. Leave them on the soil surface for a few hours in the sun to dry out properly, then brush off any soil before bagging them up.
Watch Monty Don's video guide to harvesting new potatoes:
View Green Video on the source website
To harvest potatoes grown in pots, simply tip out the contents and enjoy the rich – and easy – pickings.
Here Monty explains how to harvest potatoes grown in a bag:
View Green Video on the source website
Preparing and cooking potatoes
Wash and scrub potatoes before frying, boiling, baking, mashing, roasting or sautéeing – this has to be the most versatile vegetable!
Health note: never eat potatoes raw. Green potatoes contain a chemical called solanine, which they develop when exposed to light. It can cause severe stomach upsets.
Looking for inspiration on how to use your crop? Our friends at olive have curated a delicious collection of potato recipes, including their best-ever roast potatoes. And listen to our podcast episode, where Adam Frost and Good Food's Cassie Best share advice on growing and cooking potatoes:
View oEmbed on the source website
Storing potatoes
Home-grown maincrop potatoes will store well for many months in a cool but frost-free place. Only store perfect tubers, removing any showing signs of damage, and don’t wash them before storage. All light must be excluded to avoid potatoes turning green and poisonous. Hessian or thick brown-paper sacks are available for the job. Check crops in store regularly, removing any rotten ones.
Watch Kevin Smith explain how to prevent stored potatoes from rotting, in our Quick Tips video:
View Green Video on the source website
Advice on buying potatoes
- Potatoes are available from a range of garden centres and nurseries, with many offering online sales. If you're a member of an allotment association, you may be able to buy potatoes direct from the 'allotment shop' at a reduced price
- Choose between first earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes, depending on when you want to to eat your potatoes and if you have a problem with blight (first and second earlies are usually harvested before blight hits)
- Check the seed potatoes thoroughly when they arrive/before you buy. Make sure they're firm and avoid any with very long roots or any with signs of mould
Where to buy seed potatoes online
- Buy early seed potatoes from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
- Buy second early seed potatoes from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
- Buy maincrop seed potatoes from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
- Buy late-maincrop seed potatoes from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
Growing potatoes: potato varieties to grow
Early potatoes:
- 'Annabelle' – compact, small tubers with white skins and golden flesh. Disease resistant.
- 'Charlotte' – yellow skin and flesh, with a lovely flavour. Remains firm when cooked. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons.
Salad potatoes:
- 'Cherie' – delicious red-skinned salad variety with waxy flesh.
- 'Milva' – yellow flesh, perfect for boiling. Good yields.
- 'Pink Fir Apple' – an odd shape, but good flavour. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons.
Maincrop potatoes:
- 'Blue Danube' – with purple skin and white flesh, this new variety is resistant to blight.
- 'Cara' - round, waxy and drought resistant, it bakes well. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons.
- 'Isle of Jura' - an excellent all-rounder, with large crops from late summer. Disease resistant.
- 'Nicola' - yellow skin and flesh, small, oval tubers, sweet flavour. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons.
- 'Setanta' - drought tolerant and great for roasting and baking.
You could also try growing your own sweet potatoes, which although they are not really potatoes at all, are an excellent crop to grow in a more ornamental garden or a conservatory. Buy from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons
Frequently asked questions
Help! My potato leaves have brown spots Brown spots on potato leaves could be caused by a number of things, including magnesium deficiency, early blight (caused by Alternaria fungi) or potato blight (also known as late blight), Phytopthera infestens. Magnesium deficiency can be more common on light and sandy soils, and is remedied with a foliar feed of Epsom salts. Early blight isn't a big problem in the UK and is more common in North America. Both early and late blight can devastate potato crops – remove all foliage immediately and harvest the potatoes quickly to stop the disease reaching the tubers. Help! My seed potatoes are sprouting and have gone soft Sprouting seed potatoes is perfectly normal, and is actually encouraged – the act of potato chitting is done to encourage sprouts to develop, which is thought to increase potato yields. Slightly soft seed potatoes are usually nothing to worry about but really soft tubers may be mouldy. Check your seed potatoes thoroughly before planting and discard any with sunken or white patches, as these are rotting and could infect your other potatoes. What can I plant immediately after harvesting potatoes? If you want to make the most of soil vacated by harvesting potatoes, you can plant a number of crops in their place, including carrots, leeks and brassicas. If you're practising good crop rotation then brassicas usually follow potatoes. If you don't have plants ready to plant out, see what young plants are available from the garden centre – many have broccoli, cabbage, kale and swede plants ready to plant straight away. Is it possible to save potatoes for seed next year? It is possible to save potatoes for seed the following year, but you run the risk of transmitting disease. Seed potatoes are grown in a cool, controlled environment, so are certified disease-free. If you want to save your own potatoes for seed, keep them in a cool, dark spot. In late winter they should develop shoots and you can plant them as you would normal seed potatoes, from late March.
]]>Cold snap warning: practical tips to rescue vulnerable herbshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/cold-snap-warning-practical-tips-to-rescue-vulnerable-herbs/2026-02-19T11:54:28.000ZBy protecting your herbs over winter you can prevent losses due to waterlogging and frost. Follow our simple guide to prolonging the life of your herbs, before the hard frosts arrive.
You Will Need
- Fleece
- Plastic sheet or bubblewrap
- Bricks
- 'Pot feet'
Step 1
Wet conditions kill more herbs in winter than the cold, so place container-grown perennials such as oregano, thyme, sage and rosemary in a sheltered position against a wall or the side of the house or garage. This will reduce the amount of rainfall hitting the pot by around 25 per cent.
Step 2
Avoid overwatering container-grown herbs by lifting each pot to assess its weight. If the compost is too dry, the pot will be light, so water the plant sparingly in the morning (not at night as the water may freeze). If the pot is heavy, the compost is too wet, so raise the pot off the ground to allow it to drain.
Step 3
Trim evergreen herbs into a dome shape (it's a good idea to remove any remaining flowers in the process). This will help to protect them from high winds or snow. Don't prune back too hard, as this will create deep cuts that may not heal.
Step 4
Raise terracotta pots off the ground, either standing them on bricks, 'pot feet' or on blocks of wood. This will expose the pots' drainage holes, allowing them to drain more freely than if placed directly on the floor. Because water expands when it freezes, this action may also prevent pots from cracking.
Step 5
Use horticultural fleece or hessian to protect container-grown olives and bay trees from hard frost. As well as wrapping the leaves, it's important to also fix a thick layer of bubble wrap around the pot itself, as the delicate plant roots may be touching the inside of the pot.
Step 6
Place basil and other tender herbs in a well-lit, frost-free position, but be wary of windowsills as temperatures much below 5°C will kill them. Avoid watering these plants in the evening so they don't have wet roots at night, and harvest basil leaves from the top, not from the sides. Open greenhouses and cold frames during the day if temperatures are warm.
]]>Our easy guide to tidying your garden in winter with Alan Titchmarshhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/news/our-easy-guide-to-tidying-your-garden-in-winter/2026-02-05T16:54:50.000ZWinter is a great time for preparing your garden and greenhouse for the growing season ahead. In this video guide, Alan Titchmarsh reveals how he deals with hibernating snails, then ventures indoors for a spot of pot cleaning. He shares his method of cleaning both plastic and clay pots, ridding them of fungal spores, bacteria and overwintering pests. Then, back outside, he explains how to warm your soil to allow for earlier sowing and planting in spring. Finally, he turns his attention to tool maintenance.
Watch now, for Alan’s guide to tidying your garden in winter.
Tidying the garden in winter: transcript
The winter months are the one time of year when you feel that you can move faster than nature. It's a time to catch up, to try and beat nature at her own game. But unless you're particularly assiduous, she can sneak up on you.
There you are coming out for an armful of clay pots, what do you find? Snails hibernating at the moment quite quietly there, but you don't want to leave them, because come this spring, they'll start munching everything. What you do is entirely up to you. Me, I've never been able to crunch a snail underfoot, so I know they've got a
homing instinct, but there's a big wall and the country lane on the other side. That's what I do (tosses snail over the hedge). And then I take my pots away and wash them.
There's nothing worse than spring arriving and discovering all your pots are filthy. Oh, well, they'll just have to do. You know, you're carrying on disease with things like this if you leave them looking mucky, and you start potting things and sowing seeds in that come the spring. So, wash them - warm soapy water and with plastic
pots like this, one of these little kitchen scrubbers is quite good. You can soak the pot to soften that caked on compost inside and then just quite assiduously, clean it all off inside and out, to make sure that there's as little old compost on there as possible. Why? Well, fungal spores, bacteria and all kinds of pests and diseases can lurk in that muck. So when you've got it all cleaned off like that and it's rinsed, just leave it on the staging or
somewhere to dry.
And when it comes to clay pots like this one, same applies. These aren't quite so good, these scrubbers. You can get a kitchen scrubbing brush like that. It's a good idea, actually, to be honest, to soak your pots, the clay pots particularly, for an hour or so before you clean them. One of these will do. But if you really want to be posh
and clever, then these proper pot washing brushes are wonderful and you can use them outside as well as in. And again, when you've got it all off, do that trick of standing them and letting them drain.
If you're using crocks, and remember when you're using a crock in a pot. The important thing is it's always that way over the hole so it doesn't block the hole. It stops compost from blocking it and allows free drainage. But these need to be washed, too. So, I mean, life's too short to wash a crock, isn't it? But it really is worthwhile.
And there are nicer jobs to do as well, of course, like perusing your seed catalogues by the light of a log fire, with a lovely warming mug of tea. And when you've done that, you can go outside again.
If you want to make sure you can get on the soil as early as possible with sowings come spring, then the way to do it, is to cover it right now with thick black polythene like this. What this does, is to warm the soil up, not a tremendous amount of degrees, but enough to enable you to get on there rather earlier because you're keeping
a lot of the rain off. So it's not quite so wet, which means it's not quite so cold. And the blackness of this absorbs heat and so prepares that soil just that little bit earlier. It means you can get out there and get sowing quicker than you could on bare soil. And for the implements that you're going to be using, make sure they're all in fine fettle. Things like hoes need to be sharpened. All your tools need to be cleaned of mud. And that way you
can make sure that when you come to use them, if they're oiled and ready and hanging on the wall, as soon as you take them off and get on the soil, they're ready to use; and you can probably also steal a march on the pheasants.
]]>Complete guide to perennialshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/20-best-perennial-plants/2025-10-10T11:00:42.000ZPerennials are the stalwarts of our garden borders, providing colourful garden flowers, year after year. There are many different types, including herbaceous perennial, short-lived perennial, woody perennial and hardy perennial. Strictly speaking, trees and shrubs are perennials, but we tend to think of perennials as long-lived plants. Perennials mostly flower in spring, summer or autumn, with a handful blooming in winter, and many have attractive foliage, too. In the video above, Alan Titchmarsh shares his five favourite perennial plants.
There are perennials to suit every type of garden, for any aspect or soil type, and they range in size from low-growing herbaceous plants for the front of a border, to medium-sized ones for the middle, to giants a couple of metres tall for the back. They establish and grow quickly, with most reaching their full size in a few growing seasons. Many perennials make good cut flowers and the more compact varieties are excellent for growing in pots. Most are flowering plants that are very attractive to pollinators.
The difference between annual and perennial
Most garden plants are either annual or perennial. Annual plants flower, set seed and die within 12 months, while perennials live for several years. Perennials are split into further categories:
Herbaceous perennials – these die back to the ground in autumn and regrow in spring. Examples include Verbena bonariensis, penstemon and ornamental poppies.
Evergreen perennials – these keep their leaves all year round, such as some varieties of heuchera and hosta.
Woody perennials – while most shrubs are referred to as shrubs, some smaller-growing perennials that develop woody stems are described as shrubby or woody perennials. These include lavender and some salvias.
Hardy perennials – hardy plants tolerate low temperatures and can be planted outside all year long. Many of them are herbaceous and die back each autumn, such as cranesbill geraniums and phlox. Some are evergreen and/or shrubby, such as lungwort and lavender.
Half-hardy perennials – Half-hardy perennials are tolerant of winter wet and cold, but are vulnerable to frost. They therefore need protection over winter such as a thick mulch of straw over the roots or can be dug up and brought into an unheated greenhouse for winter. Examples include penstemon and salvias.
Tender perennials – these won't survive winter wet or cold and need digging up in autumn and storing in a frost-free location. They include dahlias and gazanias.
Choosing perennials for your garden
For the greatest success when growing perennials, choose the right plant for the right place. Assess your site, including soil type and how moisture retentive it is, the amount of sun or shade the area gets, and how exposed it is to the wind. There are perennial plants for absolutely every situation, and matchmaking their growing preferences to your site means they should thrive for many years. Choose a selection that flowers at different times of the year and combine it with shrubs, ornamental grasses and annuals for a long-lasting display.
20 top perennial plants to grow
Yarrow, Achillea
Yarrow is an herbaceous perennial and makes a colourful summer display in a sunny spot. It produces large, flat heads made up of many tiny flowers, borne on stems above clumps of feathery leaves which are green or silvery in colour. Yellow varieties predominate and there are reds and oranges too.
Height x Spread: 45-75cm x 45-60cm
- Buy yarrow from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy yarrow from Suttons
- Buy yarrow from Primrose
- Buy yarrow from J Parker's
Michaelmas daisy, Aster
Michaelmas daisies or asters are an herbaceous stalwart of late summer and autumn borders. They bear masses of ‘daisy’ flowers on sturdy stems in brilliant pinks, mauves, purples, and white. They are also excellent plants for pollinating insects. They prefer sun.
H x S: 30-75cm x 45cm
- Buy Michaelmas daisy from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy Michaelmas daisy from Suttons
- Buy Michaelmas daisy from J Parker's
Elephant's ears, Bergenia
Called elephant's ears for its large, rounded, evergreen leaves, Bergenia is a tough perennial that makes excellent ground cover in sun or shade and thrives on any reasonable soil. In late winter and early spring, large clusters of pink, white or purple flowers are borne.
H x S: 30-45cm x 45-75cm
- Buy elephant's ears from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy elephant's ears from Suttons
- Buy elephant's ears from Van Meuwen
- Buy elephant's ears from J Parker's
Crocosmia
Crocosmia is a herbaceous perennial growing from bulb-like corms. Crocosmias are also known as montbretia, although this tends to refer to the common species Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora. This has naturalised in many areas and is considered to be invasive. It is listed on Schedule 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act in England and Wales, meaning it is an offence to plant or otherwise cause to grow this species in the wild. You should stop them spreading from your garden and avoid purchasing or accepting gifts of these species.
The cultivated varieties are less likely to become invasive. They dazzle from early to late summer with orange, red or yellow blooms on slender stems, with the bonus of attractive lance-shaped fresh green leaves. They are great for introducing a vertical element to a border. Grow in sun or part shade and shelter in cold areas.
H x S: 60-90cm x 30-40cm
- Buy crocosmia from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy crocosmia from Suttons
- Buy crocosmia from Van Meuwen
- Buy crocosmia from J Parker's
Delphinium
Delphinium bears tall stems clothed with many strikingly beautiful flowers, which open over time from bottom to top so the plant gives colour for many weeks. Blue is the predominant shade, as well as white, pink and mauve. Young stems and the divided leaves are attractive to slugs and snails, which can be protected with barrier granules or an environmentally friendly bait. Grow in sun or part shade.
H x S: 60-90cm x 30-45cm
- Buy delphinium from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy delphinium from Suttons
- Buy delphinium from Van Meuwen
- Buy delphinium from J Parker's
Sea holly, Eryngium
Sea holly combines handsome, often architecturally shaped or variegated leaves with tall stems of blue flowers in summer that are beloved by bees. It prefers sun and free-draining soil and is ideal in gravel gardens, too.
H x S: 45-60 m x 30-45cm
- Buy eryngium from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy eryngium from Suttons
- Buy eryngium from Primrose
- Buy eryngium from J Parker's
Spurge, Euphorbia
Euphorbias give long-lasting interest with a combination of attractive, architectural foliage and bold heads of ‘flowers’ in colours such as lime, yellow and orange-red. These are papery bracts, not flowers, which is why they last for months rather than weeks. Many varieties keep their foliage and form through winter. This huge and diverse plant group offers something for every garden situation.
H x S: 15-120cm x 45-120cm
Cranesbill, Geranium
Geranium is an extensive and varied group of plants that are superb for border fronts, raised beds, and underplanting larger plants. Most flower in summer, and the length of the flowering period varies hugely. ‘Rozanne’ is an outstanding variety that blooms for many months. Hardy herbaceous geraniums mustn’t be confused with frost-tender geraniums, correctly known as pelargoniums, widely used for summer pots. Most do best in sun although several species thrive in shade.
H x S: 30-90cm x 30-90cm
Hellebores, Helleborus
Hellebores are winter/spring-flowering perennials, including Christmas rose (Helleborus niger) and Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis). Attractive foliage is mostly evergreen, and pretty flowers range in colour from white and green to shades of pink and purple. Many hellebores are happy in shade, although a few require sun. Winter-flowering varieties are particularly important for bees emerging early in the year.
H x S: 30-50 cm x 30-40cm
- Buy hellebores from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy hellebores from Suttons
- Buy hellebores from Van Meuwen
- Buy hellebores from J Parker's
Daylilies, Hemerocallis
Daylilies have colourful, lily-like open trumpet blooms borne in clusters on sturdy stems. The individual blooms last only for a day, hence the name, but are produced in profusion to give a good display over a number of weeks in summer. A wide colour range includes yellow, orange and red. Grow in full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
H x S: 30-60 cm x 45-60cm
- Buy daylilies from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy daylilies from Suttons
- Buy daylilies from Van Meuwen
- Buy daylilies from J Parker's
Heuchera
Heucheras are renowned for their all-year foliage interest. They have scalloped-edged leaves in neat clumps and an exceptional choice of colours, including lime-green, yellow, purple, and orange. Slender spires of white flowers appear in summer, but the foliage is the big attraction. Grow in sun or part shade.
H x S: 30-45cm x 30-45cm
- Buy heucheras from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy heucheras from Suttons
- Buy heucheras from Primrose
- Buy heuchera from J Parker's
Hosta
Hostas are grown mainly for their bold and handsome leaves in many subtle variations including greens, glaucous blue, and variegated with white or yellow markings. Flowers are also borne in summer, but foliage is the main attraction. Hostas thrive in full or partial shade and prefer moisture-retentive soil. However, they do have the drawback of being attractive to slugs and snails: they eat holes in the leaves and although rarely kill plants, do make the leaves unattractive. Hostas also do well in pots, where it’s easier to protect plants from slugs.
H x S: 30-75 cm x 30-75 cm
- Buy hostas from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy hostas from Suttons
- Buy hostas from Van Meuwen
- Buy hosta from J Parker's
Ice plant, Hylotelephium spectabile
Ice plant provides colour in late summer and is attractive to bees and butterflies. It bears large, flat heads composed of many tiny blooms in shades of pink and red. It forms rounded clumps of handsome fleshy-leaved glaucous foliage. It grows in sun and on free-draining soil.
H x S: 30-45 cm x 30-45 cm
Iris
Iris is a huge genus with species and varieties that offer something for almost every garden situation. Moisture-loving species thrive in boggy soil and at the pond edge, dwarf iris are good in rockeries and raised beds, and sumptuous-flowering bearded iris must have full sun and well-drained soil. Most iris bloom in summer.
H x S: 15-90cm x 20-60cm
- Buy Iris from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy Iris from Suttons
- Buy Iris from Van Meuwen
- Buy irises from J Parker's
Japanese anemone, Anemone hupehensis
Japanese anemone is easy and reliable for late summer flowers, bearing tall stems of saucer-shaped flowers in white and pink. Happy in sun or shade. It does regrow from pieces of root, so aim to plant in its final position if possible.
H x S: 60-90cm x 45-60cm
- Buy Japanese anemones from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy Japanese anemones from Suttons
- Buy Japanese anemones from J Parker's
Lupin
Lupin is an old favourite cottage garden flower. It is renowned for tall vertical flower spikes clad with many little, colourful blooms in summer above clumps of divided leaves. The colour range is extensive, including pink, red, blue, yellow and white. The young foliage is attractive to slugs, so some protection is recommended in spring when the new leaves appear. Grow in sun and good fertile soil.
H x S: 45-90cm x 45cm
Bee balm, Monarda
Bee balm bears flowers that are exceptionally rich in nectar, hence its name, as bees and other pollinating insects seem to love its blooms. This bold perennial forms good-sized clumps of sturdy stems topped with showy red or pink flowers in summer. Does best in full sun and good fertile soil.
H x S: 60-75cm x 1m
Oriental poppy, Papaver orientale
Oriental poppies bear enormous, showy blooms in spring and early summer, followed by decorative seedheads. Colours include pink, red, coral and white, mostly with contrasting black centres. The fern-like fresh green leaves appear very early, with flowers appearing in mid-spring. Then the whole plant goes dormant and dies back by summer. Easy to grow, in any reasonable soil and in sun or part shade.
H x S: 60cm x 45-60cm
- Buy Papaver orientale from Thompson & Morgan
- Buy Papaver orientale from Suttons
- Buy Papaver orientale from Primrose
- Buy Papaver orientale from J Parker's
Primroses, Primula
Primroses are beloved for their early flowers – prima rosa is Latin for ‘first rose' – and our native primrose starts blooming in winter in mild areas. There’s a huge range of colourful varieties as well as moisture-loving primulas for damp soil.
H x S: 15-60cm x 15-45 cm
Lungwort, Pulmonaria
Lungwort sparkles with colour in spring and are both beautiful and useful, tolerating shade as well as sun and forming low spreading clumps that can be planted beneath shrubs and trees. Bees love the blue, white or pink flowers. Some pulmonarias have prettily marbled leaves, too.
H x S: 30cm x 45 cm
When to plant perennials
Autumn is the ideal time to plant hardy perennials, while the soil is still warm, and plants can establish a good root system ready for the following spring.
After autumn, spring is the next best time to plant perennials, as long as plants are watered during dry spells when temperatures increase in summer. This season is best to plant perennials that aren’t reliably hardy, so they have plenty of time to establish before winter.
You can plant perennials in summer, however it’s critical that the plants are kept watered for the rest of the growing season, as there's naturally less moisture in the soil.
Hardy perennials can be planted in mild areas during winter, except when the ground is frozen or waterlogged.
How to plant perennials
View Green Video on the source website
In the video above, Alan Titchmarsh demonstrates how to plant perennial plants in autumn. Prepare ground thoroughly, as some perennials will be there for years. Improve the soil with plenty of well-rotted organic matter or soil conditioner, remove large stones and clear all weeds, particularly the roots of perennial weeds.
Dig a hole slightly larger than the plants’ roots or pot. Remove the pot and carefully unwind any roots that have spiralled around the rootball. Put the perennial in the ground so the top of the rootball is at soil level. Backfill with soil, firming it to remove any air pockets, and water thoroughly.
Caring for perennials
- In early spring, feed your perennials with a general slow-release fertiliser and mulch the bare soil between plants with well-rotted organic matter
- In spring or early summer, support tall-growing perennials with stakes such as canes and string, or grow-through plant supports placed over the clump
- Through spring and summer, keep the surrounding ground clear of weeds
- Remove dead and faded flowers to prolong the flowering season and to keep plants looking good
- In autumn, cut back fleshy-leaved perennials as soon as they die back, otherwise the leaves go soggy and rot
- Woody-stemmed perennial growth can be left until late winter/spring before cutting back. Frost, mist, and snow transform parchment-coloured stems into a winter wonderland, and during very cold winters, this growth also helps protect the roots from damage by severe frosts. Beneficial insects such as ladybirds hibernate in dead stems
- Tidy evergreen perennials from time to time to remove dead or tatty leaves and faded flower stems
- After three to five years, perennials tend to form large clumps and performance starts to decline. Lifting, dividing and replanting them will rejuvenate plants and provide you with more plants to grow around the garden
How to propagate perennials
View Green Video on the source website
In the video above, Carol Klein demonstrates how to divide clump-forming perennials, such as hardy geraniums. Perennials are superb for the budget-conscious gardener. Many can be raised cheaply from seed. Once perennials have formed good-sized clumps, nearly all can be propagated by division, breaking up the clump into good-sized chunks to replant while discarding the old, woody centre.
Advice on buying perennials
- Perennials are widely available at nurseries and garden centres, usually in at least two different pot sizes so you have the option of buying more costly plants for instant impact, or smaller ones that take a year or two to grow
- Perennials can also be bought by mail order – the best time to buy is autumn to spring, when plant growth is dormant, and they are more easily transported. Bare rooted plants are available whilst dormant, which avoids using plastic pots and is often cheaper
- Perennials can also be bought as plug plants, which are small and need growing on in pots before planting in the garden
Where to buy perennials online
Frequently asked questions
Do perennials come back every year?
Yes. Perennials are long-lived plants that return year after year, although short-lived perennials may return for just two to three years.
Does perennial mean evergreen?
No. Perennial means it comes back year after year. Some perennials are also evergreen, like hostas and some heucheras, but most perennials are herbaceous, meaning they die back each autumn and regrow in spring.
Is perennial permanent?
Sort of. Perennial plants come back year after year, but some are only short-lived, so they may last only for two to three years.
]]>How to grow aquilegiashttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-aquilegias/2025-06-23T12:30:52.000ZAquilegias (Aquilegia vulgaris) are traditional cottage garden perennials also known as columbine and granny’s bonnet, thanks to the bonnet-like shape of their nodding flowers. Native to the UK, they bloom from May to June, bearing purple or occasionally white flowers. However, there are many cultivated varieties of granny's bonnet available to buy, with flowering colours including pale yellow, blue and pink. What's more, hybrid cultivars – the result of a cross between Aquilegia vulgaris and Canadian native Aquilegia canadensis – have led to an even greater variety of flowering colours to choose from, including bi-coloured varieties, which usually have white petals and contrasting, brightly coloured sepals.
All aquilegias are popular with bees. They make lovely cut flowers, too, as their glaucous foliage works as a foil for other plants.
Where to plant aquilegias
Aquilegias are typically found in the woodland edge, so plant them in partial shade in a fertile, moist but well-drained soil. They do well in woodland borders and as part of a cottage garden scheme, planted among other naturalistic flowers such as love-in-a-mist and hardy geraniums. They also work well in pots, as part of a mixed, naturalistic display.
Aquilegias can self-seed prolifically, so bear this in mind if you have a small garden or want a low-maintenance gardening routine. However, most gardeners are delighted when self-sown aquilegias turn up, especially as they readily cross-fertilise so you won't know which colour the flowers will be until they bloom.
When to plant aquilegias
Sow aquilegia seed in trays of moist, peat-free seed compost between January and May to plant out when large enough to handle, or direct-sow where they are to flower from April to June. Alternatively, buy pot-grown aquilegias and plant them out in spring or autumn.
How to plant aquilegias
Dig over the soil, adding in leaf mould or garden compost to improve drainage. Tease out the roots of pot-bound plants and plant into the planting hole, firming around the rootball and watering well. Continue watering regularly in dry weather.
How to care for aquilegias
Once your aquilegia plants are established, they need very little aftercare. For the best foliage display, cut back the summer growth in September for a late flush of new leaves that should last through winter.
If you don't want to collect the seed or let your aquilegia self seed, deadhead spent flowers as and when they appear, cutting back the whole flowering stem. Otherwise, let seeds develop and save them if you want to but leave them to self-sow if you don't mind where they turn up.
How to propagate aquilegias
Aquilegias self-seed prolifically, but if you want to collect the seed to sow yourself, wait until the pods have dried on the stem. Cut the stems and then gently place the seedheads into a paper bag, so the seeds will be contained when the seedheads release them. Keep the seed in a cool, dry spot and sow them in spring.
Here, Alan Titchmarsh explains how to save seed from aquilegias:
View Green Video on the source website
Aquilegias can also be propagated by division, in early spring. Gently lift the roots out of the ground and separate them gently – aquilegias suffer from root disturbance so be as careful as possible – they may have a year off flowering afterwards.
Pests and diseases
Aquilegias can be affected by aphids and leaf miners. Both of these are a natural part of the garden's ecosystem and provide food for birds and other species further up the food chain. They don't usually pose a problem for the plants, so it's best to ignore them.
Aquilegia downy mildew is a fungal disease that can spread very quickly given the right conditions – cool and damp. Leaves will show spreading yellow patches that cause the leaf to curl and turn brown, with a white growth on the underside of the leaf. The flowers look distorted and stalks and seed pods can develop brown blotches. There's no remedy apart from removing affected plants and burning them.
Great aquilegia varieties to grow
Aquilegia vulgaris 'Lime Sorbet' has pale limey-white double flowers. Height x Spread: 80cm x 50cm
- Buy Aquilegia vulgaris 'Lime Sorbet' from Sarah Raven
Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata 'Nora Barlow'** is one of the oldest Aquilegia varieties, named after Charles Darwin's granddaughter, with pink, green and white petals. H x S: 90cm x 40cm
- Buy Aquilegia vulgaris var*. stellata* 'Nora Barlow' from Beth Chatto
Aquilegia alpina is an alpine variety with bright blue flowers, growing to 80cm. H x S: 80cm x 45cm
- Buy Aquilegia alpina from Beth Chatto
Aquilegia fragrans has pale cream flowers and a pineapple fragrance, and hails from the Himalayan foothills of Pakistan, northern India and Kashmir. H x S: 40cm x 50cm
- Buy Aquilegia fragrans from Kevock Garden Plants
Frequently asked questions
Do I cut down aquilegia after flowering?
That's up to you. If you want your aquilegia to develop seed, which you can save and sow the following spring or just allow to self-sow around your garden, don't cut the flowers down. However, if you aren't interested in saving seed and want to tidy up the appearance of the leaves, cut it back, including the leaves, and a fresh batch of leaves will grow for winter.
Does aquilegia come back every year?
Aquilegias are short-lived perennials, meaning they do come back each year but may die after a few years, so it's a good idea to save seed to grow more plants.
]]>Seven lawn care tipshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/top-lawn-care-tips/2025-04-17T13:00:08.000ZA lush, well-maintained lawn is the perfect green foil for colourful herbaceous borders, a great setting for summer picnics and even a foraging ground for birds and other wildlife. We show you how to keep your lawn looking its best all year round.
How to care for your lawn
Regularly mowing your lawn will help promote lush, green growth. Nip out weeds like dandelions when you see them to stop them competing with the grass and scatter grass seed into bare patches to get them growing again. In the video above, Alan Titchmarsh demonstrates how to repair bare patches. Use stored rainwater and grey water to water your lawn in dry summers to stop it going brown. Spike the turf with a fork to aerate trampled areas to help bring them back to life, and rake out dead growth in autumn to maintain a lush, green sward.
Follow our care tips to improve the condition and appearance of your lawn, below.
- How to get your lawn in shape for summer
Mow your lawn regularly
Cut your lawn at least once a week in summer and once every two weeks during spring, autumn and warm winters. Regular trimming encourages the roots to spread, which will help to fill gaps and block out weeds.
In summer, raise the cutting height of your mower to leave the lawn longer – around 5-10cm – as this will make it less prone to going brown in dry weather. Keep your mower well maintained and the blades sharp.
Learn the benefits of a range of mowers including electric, battery and petrol powered machines, in Alan Titchmarsh's No Fuss Guide to choosing a lawn mower:
View Green Video on the source website
For help on choosing the right lawn mower for your garden see our Buyer's Guide videos and expert lawn mower reviews:
- Budget lawn mowers -Buyer’s Guide
- Cordless mowers - Buyer’s Guide
- Lawn mower reviews
- Best cordless mowers
- Best robot lawn mowers
- Best electric lawn mowers
- Best push mowers
- Best lawn mowers
Water your lawn
Always water young lawns but don’t over water as this can cause them to root shallowly and establish poorly. Where possible, use rainwater from a water butt or grey water from your bath or washing up bowl. Sprinklers are perfect for keeping lawns hydrated but they use a lot of mains water and are not permitted during a hosepipe ban. Don't worry if an established lawn goes brown, it's not dead. It will simply green up again when the rains come.
For help watering your lawn see our Buyers guide video on hoses and our hose and hose reel kit reviews:
- Hoses - Buyer’s Guide
- Best garden hoses
- Best garden spray guns
Weed your lawn
Plantains and dandelions have wide, flat leaves that can smother large areas of lawn and inhibit growth, although they are easy to remove using a hand trowel or daisy grubber. Yellow medick, buttercups and clover can also spread quickly through a lawn, so raking before you mow can help to lift them up into the mower blades, weakening and killing them off over time.
Try to avoid using weedkiller. Chemical weedkillers can be expensive and ultimately don’t tackle poor grass health, which helps weeds to thrive. If you feel you need to use one, try a homemade weed killer instead.
Here, Alan Titchmarsh demonstrates his chemical-free method of removing lawn weeds using a daisy grubber:
View Green Video on the source website
- Buy daisy grubbers on Amazon
- Buy trowels on Amazon
Relieve compacted grass
Compacted ground prevents grass growing well and can lead to bare patches in the summer and mud baths in the winter. Relieve the compaction and aerate the soil by pushing a garden fork about 10cm deep into the soil every 10cm and gently rocking back and forth on the fork handle. The prongs open up the soil, allowing the roots to breathe and encouraging the grass to regrow.
On heavy ground, such as clay soils, brush sharp sand or fine horticultural grit into the holes to improve drainage and prevent further compaction.
Discover the benefits of aerating a lawn after scarifying it, our No Fuss Guide to aerating lawns, with Alan Titchmarsh:
View Green Video on the source website
To help keep your lawn in the best condition, our experts have tested the best scarifiers and best aerators.
- Buy garden forks on Amazon
Edge your lawn
Edging a lawn is the finishing touch to a neat, clipped lawn. Use a pair of long-handled shears to define the edge of your lawn, and stop the grass growing into borders. It instantly neatens your garden, creating a very satisfying finish. Where the lawn has grown into the border, use a spade or half-moon edger to reshape it and create a shallow ‘moat’ or install permanent edging that the grass can’t cross. Why not help keep your lawn edges neat and tidy with our pick of the best lawn edging. We’ve also tried and tested the best strimmers.
Learn how to create the perfect edge and the best technique for using edging shears, in our No Fuss Guide to edging a lawn, with Alan Titchmarsh:
View Green Video on the source website
Check out our expert test of the best garden shears
- Buy edging shears on Amazon
- Buy half-moon edging irons on Amazon
Should you feed your lawn?
Most lawns don't need feeding. Synthetic fertilisers use a lot of resources and energy in their production and may harm the environment where they are manufactured. What's more, studies have shown than synthetic fertilisers decrease the amount of microbes (fungi, bacteria and other micro-organisms) in the soil, which reduces soil fertility over time. The best lawn feeds are therefore organic feeds and mulches, which work in harmony with existing soil microbes and fauna and help to create a long lasting and sustainable healthy lawn.
Organic autumn lawn feeds include feed made using seaweed and other plant-based fertilisers, as well as home-made, sieved compost and leafmould, which you simply brush into the lawn so it's applied evenly over the surface and doesn't block light from the blades of grass. Animal-derived fertilisers are also considered organic, despite not necessarily having come from organic farms. These may contain fish, blood and bonemeal or hornmeal, and may also contain traces of synthetic hormones and antibiotics, depending on the conditions in which the animals were raised. Pelleted chicken manure is also considered organic and is high in potassium. However, the chickens may have been raised in factory farms and, again, may have been exposed to synthetic hormones and antibiotics.
If you do need to feed your lawn, apply fertiliser to grass when rain is forecast, so that it gets washed down to the roots and to stop it burning the leaf blades. If you have a large lawn, invest in a wheeled lawn feeder for a fast and accurate job. If it doesn’t rain, water the fertiliser in with a hose or watering can.
Daniel Haynes, gardenersworld.com, explains when and how to feed your lawn, in this Quick Tips video:
View Green Video on the source website
- Buy lawn feed from Amazon
Fill bare lawn patches
Rather than letting bare patches spoil the look of your lawn it's easy to sow grass seed over the raked soil. Alternatively, make fillers from unused turf. When reshaping the lawn, collect up the strips and place them 5cm apart in a compost-filled seed tray, then grow them on outside or in a cold frame.
To replace the bare patch, cut out a square or rectangle around the area and, using a hand trowel, dig up the soil in the rectangle to whatever depth of soil your new turf strip is. Gently lay the turf, cut to fit, over the patch. Firm it down so that there are no gaps and your new turf is no higher or lower than your existing lawn.
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