BBC Gardeners World Magazinehttps://www.gardenersworld.com2025-07-04T12:48:23.000Zhourly12000-01-01T12:00+00:00How to grow petuniashttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-petunias/2025-06-15T13:51:12.000ZPetunias are useful bedding plants, thanks to their colourful summer blooms. Originally from South America, petunias are frost tender, so are grown as annuals in the UK. However, they have a very long flowering period, and will bloom from summer and into autumn, often until the frosts arrive.

Petunias are divided into two main types: compact bushy petunias with an upright habit, and trailing petunias, which have stems up to 90cm long. Within both groups there's a huge choice of colours to choose from, including bright pinks, reds and purples, to soft pastel shades and white. They are work well in pots and hanging baskets, but can also be used to fill gaps in garden borders.

Where to grow petunias

Petunias need plenty of sun, a fertile soil, and shelter from strong winds. In hot summers or milder areas of the country, petunias will also do well in partial shade.

Grow trailing petunias in hanging baskets, raised pots, or pots and window boxes, where their stems and flowers can trail over the sides. They make unusual and colourful ground cover in borders and can also be planted to tumble down slopes, banks, and from raised beds.

Grow bushy, upright petunias in pots or the ground, either as part of a colourful bedding scheme or to fill gaps between more permanent plantings, in a border.

When to plant petunias

Petunias are tender plants, so wait until all risk of frost has passed before planting outside. This is usually late spring to early summer, depending on where you live.

If growing petunia from seed, sow in early spring under cover, and then harden off plants before planting out in May or June.

How to plant petunias

Petunias can be raised from seed, bought as small plug plants to grow on, or bought as garden-ready plants.

To grow from seed, fill a seed tray with peat-free seed compost mixed with vermiculite or perlite. Sow petunia seed on the surface of the compost and don't cover it, as it needs light to germinate. Then pop it in a propagator with a lid to help keep the compost moist. Place in a warm room or use a heated propagator set to 18-24ºC.

Plant the seedlings into individual pots once they have two true leaves, and then keep in a cool, frost-free spot such as a cold frame to grow on.

Pot up plug plants to grow on in the same manner as above.

Before planting petunias outside, harden them off by gradually acclimatising them to the outside over a week or two. When buying garden-ready plants, check if they’ve spent any time outside or whether they’ve been under cover, in which case they’ll also need hardening off before planting out.

Petunias need rich soil to perform well. In borders, prepare the soil by mixing in plenty of well-rotted compost or soil conditioner. For pots and containers, petunias do best in peat-free, multi-purpose potting compost.

In pots and containers, petunias can be massed close together to produce a spectacular show in a short time. Elsewhere, the smallest compact and upright varieties can be planted 15-20cm apart, bushy petunias with a lax, mounding habit need wider spacing of around 30cm, and trailing ones spaced around 40cm apart.

How to care for petunias

Regular watering is important for petunias growing in pots and hanging baskets – as a general rule, don't let the compost dry out. In the ground petunias may need additional watering during dry spells.

Direct the flow of water onto the soil rather than spraying the plant, to avoid causing sun scorch on the leaves and flowers. Aim to water early in the morning or in the evening, also to avoid scorching.

Feed every 10-14 days with a liquid fertiliser high in potash (such as tomato fertiliser). If plants are looking tired by autumn, switching to a high-nitrogen fertiliser can boost growth for the last few weeks before the frosts.

Deadhead petunias regularly. Picking off faded and dead flower heads keeps petunias looking good and encourages more flowers to be produced. Trailing varieties that become straggly later in the season can be lightly trimmed.

How to propagate petunias

Petunias can be propagated by saving seed, but the resulting plants may not be true to form, and coiuld be a completely different colour or shape. It's much better to buy fresh petunias each year.

However, you can propagate petunias by taking softwood cuttings from new growth in late summer. Pot the cuttings individually into small pots and keep on a windowsill indoors for winter.

Pests and diseases

Petunias are largely trouble-free, given the right growing conditions and care. You may see aphids on the young leaves and stems, but this is perfectly normal and usually nothing to worry about.

Slugs and snails can be a problem, particularly on petunias growing in the ground. Grow petunias to a good size before planting out as larger plants are much more able to withstand attack. Surround plants with absorbent granules or barriers or use an environmentally friendly bait.

Advice on buying petunias

• Choose the right petunia for your needs – cascading varieties are best for pots and containers, while upright vareities are best for bedding schemes
• Choose a mix of colours that complement each other
• You can buy petunias at garden centres but you'll have a greater variety at specialist nurseries and online

Where to buy petunias

• Dobies
• Suttons
• Thompson & Morgan

Petunia varieties to grow

Petunia ‘Frenzy Mixed’ is an upright, bushy petunias, bearing masses of plain and striped flowers on compact, upright, bushy plants. Height x Spread: 25cm x 30cm

• Buy Petunia 'Frenzy Mixed' from Thompson & Morgan

Petunia Cascadias series has a range of unusual colours, including ‘Yellow Eye’ (white with a yellow centre), vivid ‘Rim Magenta’, and ’Indian Summer’ that changes colour through shades of yellow and peach. Trailing yet compact. H x S: 50cm x 45cm

• Buy Petunia Cascadia 'Indian Summer' from Sarah Raven

Petunia Surfinia series is vigorous and free flowering, bearing a profusion of blooms in colours ranging from white and pastels to vibrant primary shades. H x S: 25cm x 90cm

• Buy Petunia 'Surfinia Mixed' from Thompson & Morgan

Petunia Tumbelina series have beautifully formed, ruffled, double flowers and, unusually, are scented too. Varieties include ‘Anna’ (bright pink with petals edged with white), ‘Priscilla’ (mauve with purple veins), ‘Candyfloss’ (rich pink) and ‘Joanna’ (pale pink). H x S: 25cm x 80cm

• Buy Petunia Tumbelina 'Most Fragrant Ever' from You Garden

Frequently asked questions

Does petunia come back every year? 

Although petunias are perennial, they are tender and will die if exposed to frost. In the UK petunias are treated like annuals and used as bedding plants for one growing season.

Are petunias poisonous to pets? 

Petunias are not toxic to pets such as dogs and cats.

]]>How to care for bedding plantshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/how-to-care-for-bedding-plants/2024-08-26T17:01:08.000ZBedding plants, such as petunias, pelargoniums, pansies and nicotiana, are easy to grow and care for. They look good grown in hanging baskets and pots, and also work in borders, either used to fill gaps or grown together for a colourful display.

Packs of bedding plants can be bought from garden centres as plugs or small plants. Look out for ready-made combinations, or buy trays to plant together. Simple displays often make more of an impact than complicated planting recipes, so group together several plants of one variety, such as a bright busy Lizzy, to create a good block of colour.

Follow Alan Titchmarsh's advice in the video above and our tips below, on making the most of your bedding plants, and keeping them in flower all summer.

Choose the right spot

Choose bedding plants with a specific site in mind, because this will play a big part in their survival. Plants that relish a hot, sunny site will not enjoy shade, and vice versa. Sun-loving blooms include osteospermums, marigolds, petunias and pelargoniums, while busy Lizzies, fuchsias and many foliage plants will perform well in shade.

Water thoroughly

You can fill any size or shape of pot, basket or container with bedding plants. But whether you’ve grown them yourself or bought them from a nursery or supermarket, make sure you water them thoroughly before planting. Submerge the whole pot, rootball and all, in a bucket of water and leave it for a couple of minutes to soak through. Once all the air bubbles have escaped, remove the pot from the bucket and let it drain before planting. Bedding in pots and baskets requires watering every day, especially during the summer months. Even after bouts of heavy rain, it’s surprising how little water will actually reach the compost, which can remain bone dry due to the protective umbrella effect of the plants’ foliage.

Feed the plants

Most composts for containers and baskets contain limited amounts of food. Within four to six weeks of planting, fast-growing, hungry bedding plants will have depleted most of the goodness in the compost. So, you’ll need to add more nutrients to improve your plants’ flowering performance and encourage stronger growth. Make sure your feed contains plenty of potassium, which boosts flower growth and is a key ingredient in tomato fertiliser. Follow the instructions and mix feed into one watering per week in summer.

Another and easier way to be sure your plants never go short of food is to add slow-release fertiliser to your compost. Mix granules of feed, often combined with water-retaining gel, into the compost at planting time. Alternatively, use pellets of slow-release fertiliser granules, pushing these down into the compost. As you water your pots from above, the resin coating of the granules slowly dissolves to release feed into the surrounding compost. This is a gradual process because the granules are designed to release fertiliser slowly over many months.

Deadhead spent flowers

Pick off old flower heads as soon as they fade to stop your bedding plants wasting energy producing seeds. Some varieties of fuchsia, scaevola and other bedding look after themselves, dropping their old petals to keep displays looking clean. Just shake the basket or pot, or brush lightly over the plants to keep them tidy. Plants such as pelargoniums and petunias will require more hands-on attention, so deadhead by pinching off spent flowers or snip them away with sharp scissors.

]]>Keep summer bedding plants floweringhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/keep-your-summer-bedding-flowering/2024-08-26T17:00:41.000ZAs temperatures rise and summer sets in, it pays to give your container plants, and especially bedding plants, a little time and care so that they keep on flowering and looking their best, right into autumn. The secret, as Alan Titchmarsh explains above, is to water, feed and deadhead them regularly, and choose the right location - here's how.

Step 1

Water pots daily, particularly bedding plants, and twice daily in the heat of summer - morning and evening. Water with half-strength feed twice a week to ensure plants have all the nutrients they need.

Step 2

Pick off dead flowerheads regularly - every day if possible. If you leave them in place they can start setting seed and this triggers an end to flowering, so removing them will encourage the plant to flower again. Find out more about deadheading.

More summer bedding plant advice

• Three pots for summer colour
• How to care for bedding plants
• Flowerbed ideas for your garden

]]>Five tips for feeding plants in potshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/five-tips-for-feeding-plants-in-pots/2024-08-08T15:00:19.000ZPot-grown plants are like caged animals; being confined, they can't 'forage' so they rely totally on us for food. Most compost only supplies 'starter' nutrients that are soon used up, so begin feeding plants growing in pots six weeks after potting or repotting.

The amount of feed plants need varies according to growing conditions, size and speed of growth. Some people underfeed, while others overdo it. If you apply a strong dose of feed all in one go, the resulting strong solution of salts can actually draw moisture out of the plant by a process known as reverse osmosis, so over-feeding does more harm than good.

Always follow the feed supplier's advice, but as a general rule start feeding in spring, perhaps once every two weeks. Feed weekly when plants are growing vigorously and the weather is warmer, rising to twice weekly for heavy feeders or fast-growing plants in large containers.

In this No Fuss video guide, David Hurrion explains how to recognise plant nutrient deficiencies, so you know when to feed your plants:

View Green Video on the source website

Here, David takes you through the different types of organic plant food:

View Green Video on the source website

More on feeding plants:

• Feeding plants in spring
• Feeding plants in summer
• How to make comfrey feed

Check out these tips on feeding your potted plants, below.

Using liquid feeds

Use liquid feeds for plants in pots and containers; it can be too easy to overdose with solid feeds, which can scorch plant roots when applied to the surface. However, you can incorporate slow-release fertiliser into your planting medium when potting up plants.

Choose the right feed

Apply high-nitrogen liquid feeds to leafy plants and liquid tomato feed (diluted to half or quarter strength) to flowering plants, to promote buds.

Feed little and often

Feed little and often instead of big, infrequent doses during the growing season and increase feeding with speed of growth. Stop feeding at the end of summer.

Dilute your feed

Dilute liquid feeds, following the maker's directions, and apply as much of the liquid as you'd use to water the plant. Don't be tempted to add more.

Don't feed plants that are under stress

Don't feed plants that are under stress from root damage or drought (which will be wilting) until they've recovered.

Feeding those that need it

Remember, not everything growing in containers needs regular feeding. Generally speaking, cacti, succulents and hardy annuals perform best on poor soils. If you're unsure, just do a little research around the plant to find out more about its growing requirements.

]]>How to control aphids (greenfly or blackfly)https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/aphids/2024-03-29T08:00:49.000ZAphids, also known as greenfly or blackfly, are tiny, sap-sucking bugs that can occur on most plants, particularly on soft young growth. There are actually more than 500 species of aphid in the UK, varying in colour from green and black to also yellow, brown, and orange, and in size from 1 to 7mm long.

Aphids need warmth to flourish, so in the garden this limits their lifecycle to spring and summer. However, indoors in the home, greenhouse or conservatory, aphids can occur at any time of year. Many types of aphid feed only on specific plants, so an infestation on one plant doesn’t necessarily mean that it will affect all of your plants.

Learn environmentally-friendly methods for controlling greenfly and blackfly, and other garden pests, with Monty's guide to organic insecticides and how they work, in the video above.

Why are aphids a problem?

Greenfly and blackfly are a natural part of the garden ecosystem and a vital source of food for many species of birds, including house sparrows. They're only a problem if they occur in large numbers. Large infestations can weaken plants and cause curling or distortion of affected growth. This can sometimes eventually kill the plant, especially young ones. Some aphid species transfer virus diseases between plants – many viruses cause a range of symptoms including mottled, streaked or distorted foliage, and weak growth. Viruses aren’t curable, so infected plants should be destroyed. An additional problem caused by greenfly and blackfly is the sticky substance they exude, known as honeydew, which can become infested with black mould – this stops leaves photosynthesising and inhibits plant growth.

What should I do if I spot aphids?

A small number of aphids on a garden plant is rarely a problem. Birds will quickly pick them off and feed them to their young. However, in the veg patch, where you might be growing lots of the same plant together, or indoors where there are no natural predators, you'll need to act quickly. Often, simply hand-squashing a small infestation is all that’s required. Be alert for early warning signs and inspect plants thoroughly – greenfly and blackfly can be hard to spot as they nestle in leaf joints and on the undersides of leaves. Often, the first warning sign on indoor and greenhouse plants is the sticky honeydew on the leaves beneath the initial cluster. Ants running up and down plant stems are another giveaway sign of greenfly in the greenhouse, as ants 'farm' aphids and feed on their sweet honeydew.

Encouraging wildlife to control aphids

Many wild species eat greenfly and blackfly, and actually rely on them as an important food source. Aphid predators include birds, ladybirds, hoverflies, lacewings and earwigs. Ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings lay eggs on plants infested with greenfly and blackfly and their young eat them at an astonishing rate – it's thought that one ladybird can consume several hundred aphids over its lifetime. Wasps are voracious feeders of aphids, too, so instead of regarding wasps as villains, leave them alone to help control pests. In spring, aphid populations may rise to begin with as predator populations can be low, but later in the season these predator populations will be rising to get aphids under control.

Controlling aphids without chemicals

The chances are that, by the time you've found greenfly or blackfly on your garden plants, the predators have, too. So, bear in mind that removing aphids will likely kill beneficial insects such as ladybirds and lacewings, as well as aphids. These predators are not present indoors, so you will need to control aphids yourself:

• Wash off greenfly with a jet of water from a hose
• Hand-squash small infestations
• Use biological controls, which involve buying live predators to introduce into the home or greenhouse to deal with aphid infestations

How to deter aphids naturally

• Pungent-smelling plants like sage, onions, garlic, and nasturtium, grown alongside susceptible plants, may help deter aphids.
• Create habitats to encourage birds and other predators into your garden – be less tidy in winter so ladybirds can hibernate, encourage birds with climbing plants and dense shrubs
• Aphids target soft young growth, so minimising the use of nitrogen-rich fertiliser helps raise tough-leaved plants (nitrogen is the primary nutrient used to develop leafy growth)
• Thoroughly clean out greenhouses and conservatories once or twice a year. Remove all plants and debris such as fallen leaves; wash surfaces and staging; avoid storing pots and sundries with your plants (they provide hiding places for pests), and fumigate the structure using a chemical-free product.

Using sprays to combat aphids

There’s a wide range of chemical-free (organic) products, those based on synthetic products, and chemicals (insecticides).

• Organic (chemical-free) sprays are based on plant extracts, plant oils or soft soap. These must be sprayed directly on the aphids in order to work, and often only persist for a short time so may need re-application
• Products based on surfactants or fatty acids have fewer harmful effects than chemical pesticides
• Chemical sprays are based on synthetic pyrethroids. Avoid using sprays containing neonicotinoids due to their harmful effects on bees
• Always follow instructions and do not spray plants in flower, as beneficial insects, bees, and others are likely to be killed. Apply sprays late in the day when insects are less active.

Frequently asked questions

Is there a home-made, organic way to deal with aphids? There are many home-made recipes for killing aphids – the most common is using dishwasher liquid mixed with water and sprayed onto the plants. Bear in mind that, because these are home-made, they are not tested for their effectiveness on aphids or of any side-effects on the plants. To minimise any adverse environmental effects, use only eco detergents and a very weak solution. Also consider not removing the aphids at all – they are a vital source of food for many other species, including house sparrows and ladybirds, which control them naturally for you. If I spray insecticide on aphids will it get into the compost and kill the plants? Chemical insecticides are designed to kill insects, so spraying them on your plants will kill aphids. However, they may also kill ladybirds, hoverflies, and even bees and butterflies if the insecticide gets into the flowers. Residues will be washed off the plants into the soil and could then harm soil invertebrates such as earthworms and beetles. The insecticide itself won't kill your plants but will damage your garden's environment, which will disrupt the ecosystem and make it harder to control pests in future. We recommend letting nature take its course: let birds, ladybirds and hoverflies control aphids unless there is a huge infestation and then remove them by hand or with an organic spray. There should be no need to ever use chemical insecticides in the garden.

]]>Red spider miteshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/red-spider-mites/2024-02-23T14:00:49.000ZWhat are the red spiders on my plants?

Tiny red 'spiders' on house plants and greenhouse crops are actually sap-sucking mites called red spider mites. There are many types of spider mite, but in the UK the red spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) is the species most likely to be found on indoor and greenhouse-grown plants. Red spider mites are around 0.5mm long and are also known as the two-spotted mite. They are usually considered a pest as they suck sap from plants, reducing their vigour. If left unchecked, red spider mites can multiply quickly and wreak havoc in a greenhouse or on house plants indoors.

For most of the year, red spider mites are a pale green colour with two dark spots on their back, but in autumn and winter they turn orange-red and may be spotted in cracks in windowsills and in our homes, as they look for places to hibernate. Red spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions so life in the greenhouse or a centrally-heated home suits them perfectly. If the temperature stays above 12ºC, red spider mites can breed all year round.

Red spider mite symptoms

Red spider mites are easy to spot on green house plants and house plants. The easiest way to identify them is to look for fine, cobweb-like webbing on the leaves and stems of plants, while mottling is visible on the upper surface of leaves. Using a magnifying glass, look for small mites and eggs on the undersides of leaves. Affected plants will lack vigour and may eventually die.

Find red spider mite on...

Spider mites are typically found on house plants and greenhouse plants, including greenhouse tomatoes, cucumbers, aubergines and peppers, along with perennial crops like grapevines, peach and nectarine trees. Vulnerable house plants include poinsettias and orchids. If conditions remain warm and dry in summer, you may find red spider mite outside on fuchsias, runner beans, pelargoniums and other bedding plants.

How to kill red spider mite

From early summer, inspect greenhouse and house plants weekly and deal with the first signs of infestation straight away. Remove infested leaves, buds and stems as these will contain eggs, so you will immediately reduce the size of the infestation and the potential damage done to your plants.

Red spider mites thrive in warm, dry conditions, so the easiest and safest way to get rid of them is to increase humidity. This will stop them from being able to reproduce, which will quickly stop them feeding on your plants. In the greenhouse you can boost levels of humidity by misting plants with tepid water, standing bowls of water on the benches between plants, and damping down the floor of your greenhouse with water. In the home, stand house plants on a tray of pebbles and water, with the water sitting just beneath the pebbles so it evaporates into the room instead of being absorbed by the plant's roots. Misting the leaves or moving the plant into a more humid room, such as your bathroom or kitchen, can also help stop red spider mites from reproducing on your plants.

For large infestations, you can use predatory mites to control red spider mite. In summer, once daytime temperatures in the greenhouse hover steadily around 21ºC, you can try releasing the predatory mite, Phytoseiulus persimilis on to your plants. This is the most common biological pest control for red spider mite in greenhouses and the home. The predatory mites feed on spider mites at all stages of their lifecycle, including eggs. This quickly reduces the spider mite population and therefore plant damage.

• Buy Phytoseiulus persimilis from Dragonfli

If temperatures remain lower than 15ºC (the minimum temperature at which Phytoseiulus persimilis can survive*),* try using sprays containing fatty acids or plant oils, instead.

• Buy eco bug and mildew spray from Thompson & Morgan

]]>How to lift and store dahliashttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-lift-and-store-dahlias2/2023-10-16T08:00:04.000ZDahlias are beautiful, tender perennials that flower from summer into autumn, providing a long season of colour and interest. They are grown from tubers, which look like a cluster of brown, carrot-like roots joined by the previous year's dried stem.

After flowering, dahlias start to rot back into the ground and the nutrients from the plant are returned to the tubers, which remain in the ground over winter and start growing again in spring. However, because dahlias are tender they don't reliably survive British winters. You may be lucky if you live in the south – after cutting back the stems, simply apply a thick mulch at the base of the plant to protect the tubers from frost. But if you live in the north or if you experience a particularly long, cold winter, your dahlia tubers may rot and have to be replaced.

So, while you could take the risk and replace them if they rot, you can guarantee your dahlias getting through winter by digging them up and storing them. Then simply replant them in May, when all risk of frost has passed.

Learn how you can ensure a fabulous display of dahlia flowers for next summer, whatever the weather, in three easy steps.

How to store dahlias

You Will Need

• Secateurs
• Garden fork
• Dry compost
• Storage box or container

Total time: 30 minutes

Step 1: Dig up your dahlias

Once the dahlia foliage has started to die down, dig all around the clump and lift the tubers with a fork, taking great care not to damage them with the fork spikes. Shake off as much soil as you can. Then, using secateurs, cut down the dahlia stems and compost the leaves.

Step 2: Rinse the tubers

Use a hose or bucket of water to thoroughly rinse the soil off the dahlia tubers, and then stand the tubers upside down to dry.

Step 3: Pack the tubers

Once dry, pack your dahlia tubers in a box or pot, and cover them with dry compost (it's important to ensure the compost is dry, as damp compost could lead to your tubers rotting in store). You can also store dahlia tubers in vermiculite, or wrap them in dry newspaper. Once packed into their pots, store your tubers in a frost-free place, such as under the greenhouse staging, in a dry shed or garage.

If your dahlias are in a warm, sheltered spot in the border and you don't want to lift them, add a thick layer of mulch for extra insulation in winter.

]]>14 gardening projects for kidshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/10-gardening-projects-for-kids/2023-07-29T06:48:11.000ZThese simple garden projects are a great way to get the kids outside, entertained and away from the TV or computer screen. All of the activities are suitable for children of primary school age, but it’s easy to tailor them to suit older or younger kids. Little ones will need a bit of extra help and guidance, while the more grown-up ones can be given planning and decision-making responsibilities, and the use of tools such as hand drills and shears.

Browse our suggestions for garden projects for children, below.

For those with younger kids, our friends at Made for Mums have compiled a creative list of outdoor activities for toddlers.

Pot up colourful containers

These instant container displays are easy to plant and will quickly fill the space allocated to them. Let your kids choose plants from the seasonal displays at the garden centre, then use a cheerful pot to match. Choose either a coloured plastic pot or paint a terracotta pot with brightly coloured paint – if your kids are old enough, they could help with this. Ensure there are drainage holes in the base, then add peat-free multi-purpose compost until it’s two-thirds full. Remove the plants from their pots and place them on the compost – arrange them into an attractive display. Fill in around the roots with more compost and firm in well. Water the plants in and place the pot in a sheltered, sunny spot. Continue to water regularly over summer and pinch off faded flowers to encourage more to grow.

Make a fairy garden

Help children create an enchanted garden at the base of a tree or in a hollow in the ground. Kids will love collecting stones for paths and twigs for fences, and you could add ferns and other small plants around the trunk. Help little ones tie ribbons to branches and make a fairy door for a tree or wall by decorating a piece of cardboard or the lid of an ice cream tub.

Create a dinosaur herb garden

This project has lots of elements to capture kids’ attention. Stencil the name of your child onto the crate to make the garden extra-special for them, and use colourful dinosaurs as plant labels. Grow scented herbs such as thyme to add an extra sensory element, as well as things they’ll love to eat, like strawberries. You’ll need one dinosaur figure for each plant in your container – simply use a marker pen to write down the name of each plant in the display. Position the display in a sunny spot and water regularly. Pick the herbs and fruit with your children.

Build a twig teepee

Encourage your kids to build an adult-free space using branches stacked against a wall, fence or tree. Help them arrange the branches to make dense walls so they provide privacy and an opening that’s just wide enough for them to crawl through. Older children will enjoy designing the den and could try building a freestanding one, too.

Create a terrarium mini-world

Glass jar gardens or terrariums are the perfect size for little hands. Let your children select an array of succulents from the garden centre. Place gravel in the base of a large jar, top with a layer of compost, and then add in the plants and arrange into a display. Firm in with fingers or a pencil. Add a little water, plus a layer of gravel to hold in the moisture. Stand the jar on a bright indoor windowsill, out of direct sunlight.

Make a bug box

This simple bug box project just requires an open-fronted box – the kids can run around the garden for the materials to fill it with. A drilled log may provide a home for solitary bees, while stacks of pine cones, stones, broken pots, twigs and dried grass can be added to attract ladybirds, woodlice and, if you’re lucky, the odd mouse or toad.

Collect seeds

Plants and crops are bursting into flower everywhere at this time of year. If you allow a few to go to seed, children can have fun spotting them in the garden and collecting them for sowing next year. Show them how to burst seedpods and shake seeds from ripe seedheads. They can then have fun designing and making paper seed packets to store them in.

Make a pond in a pot

Container ponds are easy to make and kids will love getting wet and muddy, especially on a hot summer's day. They’ll also attract birds and insects, so they should provide some quiet wildlife-watching time, too. Use a large, shallow container with no drainage holes, and add a selection of pond and marginal plants, plus an oxygenator to help keep the water clear. Site it in a little shade rather than in full sun, and keep the water topped up.

Grow micro-greens

Micro-leaves are all the rage, and kids will love growing and hopefully eating them too. You don’t need special micro-leaf seeds – just use seeds of any veg with edible leaves, such as basil, broccoli or spinach. Choose any container, from plastic cups, yoghurt pots or biodegradable pots – all the better if you can draw a smiley face on them. Fill your pots almost to the top with compost – just leave a little gap to make watering easier. Scatter the veg or herb seeds thinly across the surface, then cover with a little compost. Water to dampen the compost, then check them regularly to make sure it doesn't dry out. Then simply place the pots on an indoor windowsill to grow. To harvest the microgreens, simply snip them off at the base. Alternatively, wait until they have a pair of true leaves, then cut off just these, and you may get a couple of harvests.

Create a succulent plant display

Succulents planted in a pot look good for months on end and require very little maintenance. Let them choose the plants they want to grow from the garden centre. Arrange the plants so they're evenly distributed around the pot and fill around them with cactus compost. Top-dress with horticultural gravel to complete the look. The kids can add their own accessories – in this case toy dinosaurs – to make the display more individual to them. This display can stay outside over summer and then can be transferred to a bedroom windowsill in autumn, providing interest for many more months.

Make a grass bucket seat

This grass seat will last all summer and beyond, and older children will enjoy keeping it trim with shears or scissors. Choose an old metal bucket or bin and add drainage holes in the bottom. Fill it to the brim with compost, firm down and then sprinkle lawn seed over the top. Water it well and leave it to germinate, which in summer should only take about a week. Don’t let it dry out, and when it’s nice and thick, encourage one of your older children to cut it using shears.

Make hanging tin-can planters

Children will love this vertical planting project using recycled tin cans. Simply punch holes in the base of each can with a hammer and nail, then one near the top for hanging. Paint them in different colours and leave them to dry. Let the children decide where to place the pots, then hammer the nails ready to hang your cans and let your kids hang the cans on the nails. Let your kids choose what to grow in them, part-fill with compost and plant the plants. Water the pots daily and encourage your children to help remove dead flowers to keep the plants blooming.

Plant up a funny face

This project is a fun activity for kids on a rainy day. Combining gardening with a bit of craft will get children excited about growing their own plants. Cat grass not only looks fantastic, but it is also tactile – children will enjoy the feel of the grass and have fun transforming it into a funny face. Use a pot of cat grass bought from the garden centre and cut a 2L soft drinks bottle to size. Lift the cat grass from its pot and place the plant in your new plant pot. It should fit snugly, with the top of the roots level with the top of the container. Then get your kids to decorate the pot how they would like, using PVA glue, goggly eyes and fabric scraps to make a funny face. Place on a sunny windowsill and water regularly.

Grow radishes

The magic of seeing a seed transform into a plant is sure to get kids excited about gardening. Radish seeds are quick to grow but quite fine, so also try larger seeds like courgettes or runner beans (which will need to be planted into the ground after a few weeks). Children will love getting their hands dirty and there’s a good chance they’ll eat more fresh produce if they’ve grown it themselves. Simply fill a container with peat-free, multi-purpose compost and firm down with your hand so the surface is level. Encourage kids to make holes in the compost with their fingers – about 1cm deep, spaced about 2.5cm apart. Drop a seed into each hole and cover with more compost. Water the container well after sowing. Containers dry out quickly, especially in summer, so you will need to water your plants frequently. It will take about four to six weeks until the radishes are ready to harvest.

]]>How to water your plantshttps://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-water-your-plants/2023-07-27T11:48:16.000ZRegular watering is essential for summer bedding, vegetables, pots and hanging baskets as well as newly-planted trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants. In this short video, Alan Titchmarsh shows you how to water effectively, including where to direct the water, how much to give plants, how to tell if you’ve watered enough, and the best time of day to do it for maximum impact.

Plus, we explain how to water your plants efficiently to reduce reliance on mains water and help conserve this precious resource.

More on watering your plants

• Guide to summer watering
• Drought-tolerant plants to grow
• Dealing with drought in the garden
• Reviews of garden watering tools
• How to water your plants during a hosepipe ban

You Will Need

• Water butt
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Water-retaining granules
• Drip irrigation system
• Hose pipe with spray gun attached

Step 1

Always water your plants in the cool of the evening or very early in the morning, rather than during the day, when most of the water would evaporate before getting to the plant roots.

Buy watering cans on Amazon

Step 2

Apply water to the base of plants where it can soak down to the roots. In hot weather, give each plant a good soak at two or three day intervals, rather than a quick sprinkle every day.

Step 3

Help channel water to the roots of thirsty plants, like this tomato (see picture), by burying a flowerpot alongside it. This can be filled with water where it will soak down into the soil.

Step 4

Micro-drip irrigation systems can be installed to deliver water directly to where the plants can use it. Applied slowly, water gradually soaks to the roots, rather than running off or evaporating. It will save you time and reduce the amount of water that's wasted.

Buy drip irrigation systems from Dobies

Step 5

Store as much rainfall as you can in water butts collected from the roof of your house, garage, shed and greenhouse. This will be warmer and thus cause less of a shock to plant roots than mains water.

Buy water butts from Dobies

Step 6

View Green Video on the source website

Using the contents of your bath to water your plants is an effective way to save mains water, especially in dry weather. Catherine Mansley, BBC Gardeners' World Magazine, explains how to use bath water in your garden, in our Quick Tips video.

Step 7

Water-retaining granules can be added to the compost when planting bedding in pots, hanging baskets and other containers. The roots of the plants grow around the saturated granules to draw moisture as they need it.

Buy water retaining gel on Amazon

Step 8

If you have a lot of watering to do, a hose will save you time and effort but to make sure you only use the water you need and that it goes exactly where you want it to, use a spray gun attached to the end of your hose. Choose one that doesn't leak or drip and look for a controllable flow option that can adjust the volume of water from 40-100%. Guns with an aerated spray control will also use less water.

For help choosing the right hose for your garden see our round up of the best garden hoses and our individual expert garden hose reviews

Choose large pots for your plants as they won't dry out as quickly as small ones. Group pots together to make watering easier.

]]>Designing a front gardenhttps://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/designing-a-front-garden/2023-07-23T10:30:20.000ZFront gardens play an important role, particularly in our towns and cities. They can breathe life into grey streets, helping to provide wildlife habitats and reduce pollution. They can also make us feel good about where we live.

Creating a front garden requires careful thought. You may need to find space for wheelie bins and off-street parking, which can limit your design and planting choices. However, this doesn't mean that front gardens can't be beautiful, practical and wildlife-friendly spaces. The key is to keep things simple and ensure any plants and materials work well together.

Design tips for front gardens

• Ensure your design works from indoors. Think about what you want to see from the windows and where you'd like to create privacy
• Use surfaces that let water through, such as gravel, permeable setts or grass sown into heavy-duty plastic modules (which cars can be parked on)
• Don't create an awkward route from the pavement to the front door – visitors will always cut corners
• Don't use a loose surface such as fine gravel right up the door, as it will get trodden through the house
• Don't build up paving or soil levels against the house wall – they can cause damp issues
• Seek advice or planning permission for paving, which can increase the risk of localised flooding.

More on front gardens:

• Six ideas for garden screens
• Alternatives to garden paving
• 11 ideas for garden fences

Ideas for small front gardens

Even in a small front garden, you can make a difference by planting a container for the front doorstep or growing climbers up the house wall. There are ways to make your small front garden look bigger, such as avoiding clutter, using one larger plant as a focal point rather than creating a busy look with lots of small pots, adding height with climbers, and using cool colours.

• Plant up a window box. This can be changed seasonally and will create a focal point for your front garden. Miniature daffodils, pelargoniums, violas, pansies, ivy, heuchera and heather are all easy plants for window boxes.
• Planting a climber such as a clematis, rose or wisteria will add colour without taking up too much ground space. Adding vertical interest is a great way to make your garden look bigger.
• Use symmetry to give your entrance impact. Placing a bay tree or standard rose on either side of the door is a low-maintenance way to improve the look of your front garden.
• Add lighting – a string of fairy lights along your hedge or fence is a simple way to give your front garden a boost without too much effort. You can buy outdoor battery-powered lights that can be set with a timer to come on after dark.
• Plant a hedge – this is a great option for a boundary and adds greenery to a front garden. It’s good for wildlife, providing shelter and food, depending on what species you go for. Some good choices for wildlife include beech, hawthorn and hazel.

Fencing ideas for front gardens

A fence creates a boundary between your garden and the street, gardens to either side of you or the landscape beyond. If the fence in your front garden is next to a road or path alongside a road, it can be up to 1m high. You don’t need planning permission for a fence this high, but if you live in a listed building or conservation area, it’s worth checking with your local council. The options for a fence in your front garden include metal railings, fence panels in a variety of styles, and picket fences. The cheapest material for a fence is likely to be wire fencing. While this isn't very attractive, it can be enhanced by growing climbers up it. Wooden fence panels are also an inexpensive option.

• Paint plain wooden fencing to give your front garden a lift. You could simply stain it a more attractive wood colour or brighten things up with colour.
• Use a picket fence to create a boundary without blocking light – this is a good option for informal, cottage-style gardens.
• Plant either behind or in front of your fence to soften the boundary's appearance. A hedge can add to a formal look, or a display of bright plants can bring a more relaxed feel to a smart exterior.
• Use your fence as a base for vertical planting. Choose fencing panels with a trellis at the top to tie in climbers such as clematis. Alternatively, plant along the base of the fence.
• Combine railings with a wall – railings set into a wall are a good match for Victorian properties.

Be inspired by our tips for designing a front garden, below.

Use complementary colours

Try to use colour to tie in with the tones of the house. This front garden is planted with low-maintenance plants in various shades of green, set off by slate pavers and chippings.

Design tip: Note here that the colour of the window frames and door awning complement the slate paths. Climbing roses further bring the garden to the house, while also softening the house walls. The front door and wood store are both painted black.

Save money: Loose materials are cheaper than large, heavy ones such as paving stones, and allow water to percolate into the soil, preventing flooding. Always lay landscape fabric beneath loose materials – it will prevent most weeds coming up but will let rainwater through.

Use white to create a focal point

The entrance to a front garden can immediately set the style of the space. This welcoming white gate, surrounded by cottage-style planting, signposts that there's a fabulous cottage garden waiting to be explored.

Design tip: White can be quite a dominant colour so use it in small doses only. It may be just a bit too much for your garden – try various colour samples before choosing.

Save money: Look out for reclaimed or second-hand gates, and spruce them up with a fresh coat of paint.

Hide bins with bespoke screening

Bins and recycling boxes are often the first things you see in a front garden. It's easy to hide them away. This box unit has been designed to hide the bin while still enabling easy access. The planting space above looks pretty while also reclaiming the lost planting area taken up by the bin. Use a variety of plants of your choice—green-roof plants, such as sedums and sempervivums, don't need much soil depth and are drought-tolerant.

Design tip: Cover the base of the planting pocket with a plastic membrane to prevent rotting, then fill with a mix of peat-free multi-purpose compost and grit.

Save money: Make it yourself from old pallets and decking planks.

Use containers to enhance paved spaces

It's amazing how many plants can be grown in pots and other containers. This front garden is paved and all the plants are grown in pots, which are hidden by trailing flowers and foliage.

Design tip: Browse our list of plants for pots and choose wisely, taking into consideration how much time you'll have to water and feed your plants. Choose the largest pots you can – the bigger the container the better, as you can combine several plants together, and larger pots generally need less watering.

Save money: Grow as many plants from seed as possible. Try to recycle and upcycle containers – virtually anything can be used, from old sinks to large olive-oil tins.

Use topiary for a formal look

Consider a formal layout if you have a symmetrical house with a centrally-placed front door. Topiary trees and shrubs work well in these situations, such as this cloud-pruned box. You can also buy lollipop trees of bay, yew and privet.

Design tip: Plant your specimens symmetrically – such as on either side of your front door, in matching pots, for the best effect.

Save money: There are some very convincing faux-terracotta and faux-lead planters on the market – they cost less than the real thing and are also lightweight.

Use hanging baskets for height and colour

Hanging baskets help to break up a harsh brick wall and soften the front of the house. Change the plants seasonally to keep the display looking cheery and welcoming.

Design tip: Choose flower or foliage colours that work well with your house bricks or front door, such as the orange flowers here, which pick out the colour of the bricks behind.

Save money: Raise your own bedding plants from seed, or buy them as plugs early in the season and grow them on. Keep summer bedding plants indoors until after the last frost.

Use pots of different sizes

Here a random collection of vibrant plants in pots of various sizes has been brought together by using the same terracotta finish.

Design tip: This display works well because the pots have been arranged by size, with the tallest at the back and a row of dianthus along one side. Add fragrant plants for passers-by and visitors to enjoy.

Save money: Look out for small plants and multi-buy deals – you can often make great savings by buying seasonal plants in quantity.

Grow shade-loving plants in shady gardens

Shady gardens needn't be tricky. These ferns show that even a few plants in pots can break up an otherwise harsh junction between a wall and a concrete path.

Design tip: Include some evergreens, as the garden will be seen daily throughout winter. Evergreen ferns such as the hart's tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium) or the soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum) are perfect for shade.

Save money: You can often buy multi-packs of young fern plants, which are great value for money.

Add height where possible

Try to get some height into even a small space. A single small tree or large shrub will make all the difference and can be grown in a large container. Read more about trees for small gardens. A deciduous tree can act as a net curtain, giving a degree of privacy from the street all year round but letting light in through winter – read more about trees for privacy.

Grasses are a great option in a sunny front garden. They have a long season of interest and many keep their form all winter. This miscanthus is the ideal height to provide a soft screen for the window behind it, creating a little privacy indoors.

Design tip: Let ornamental grasses stand tall through the winter months. Wait until spring to cut them back and tidy them up.

Save money: Grasses are usually fast-growing and will quickly bulk up, so don't waste your money on large specimens.

Try a Victorian front-garden design

Features that are common in Victorian front-garden designs include wrought-iron railings, tiled paths, and formal-style planting such as topiary or clipped box hedging that matches the smart architecture of the house.

Design tip: If you prefer a less formal style, embrace some of the plants that the Victorians loved and go for a more colourful look. Dahlias, petunias, chrysanthemums and roses were all popular during this period of history. And if you have a north-facing garden, try ferns.

Save money: Search reclamation yards for railings and tiles that can be repurposed.

Plant a hedge

A hedge can absorb noise and pollution and help wildlife. It also makes an attractive boundary between your front garden and the street, and a wildlife-friendly alternative to fencing. Box is a good option for an easy-to-maintain hedge, although there is the risk of box blight. Other good hedging plants include Osmanthus burkwoodii, with white flowers in spring, privet, yew and pittosporum.

Design tip: Plant a hedge behind your fence to add greenery to your garden, or combine it with an attractive gate. Choose a clipped small-leaved hedge for a formal look or a flowering or mixed hedge for a cottage-style or informal garden.

Save money: Buy young, small hedging plants in bulk. It's much cheaper than buying mature plants, but it will take longer to get a full-sized hedge.

Use your front door in the colour scheme

Choose a colour scheme or style for your front garden and paint your door to complement it. Even refreshing the current colour will give your front garden a boost. Whether it’s black to suit a traditional Victorian house or a light blue to complement a soft colour scheme, it’s one more element where you can improve your front garden.

Design tip: Take into account the style of your house and houses on your street before painting your door a very bright colour. It should help bring design elements together, from your plants to your brick colour, rather than stand out on its own.

Save money: Do the job yourself rather than paying someone to renovate your door.

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