BBC Gardeners World Magazine https://www.gardenersworld.com/tag/deciduous-shrub Thu, 19 Mar 2026 16:47:10 GMT en hourly 1 Cut your buddleia back now, or it could turn to a twiggy mess https://www.gardenersworld.com/news/cut-your-buddleia-back-now-or-it-could-turn-to-a-twiggy-mess/ Thu, 19 Mar 2026 16:47:10 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/news/cut-your-buddleia-back-now-or-it-could-turn-to-a-twiggy-mess/ Follow our expert advice on pruning buddlejas, in this step-by-step guide. Pruning Buddleja davidii is essential if you want to keep it looking its best. If you don't prune your buddleia it can become tatty and overgrown, developing a twiggy tangle of bare stems, with the flowers appearing way above head height.
When to prune buddleia
Hard prune your buddleia in early spring. The most vigorous varieties will still grow to 3m tall and 2m across by summer, while the smaller forms, such as ‘Nanho Blue’, can be kept to less than 1.5m in height and spread. Alternatively, by pruning later in spring, you can ensure your buddleia flowers later in summer, to coincide with the emergence of the summer butterflies like the peacock and small tortoiseshell. Pruning as late as May can delay flowering until August, providing nectar when there's little else available.
Bear in mind that Buddleja alternifolia and Buddleja globosa bloom on stems made in the previous season, so cutting back in spring would remove the flower buds. Neither should be hard pruned – instead, cut out a selection of the oldest branches in midsummer.
Where to buy buddleia online
How to prune buddleia
You will need:
- Secateurs
- Pruning saw
- Long-handled loppers
Step 1
First, trim back the top growth to around half its height, using secateurs. This makes it easier to see what you’re doing as you progress, and gives you better access to the base of the plant.
Step 2
Cut through the thick woody stems, around 30cm above the ground, using a pair of loppers or a pruning saw. Where possible, prune just above a bud or growing shoot. If you’d like the plant to grow taller than 3m (for example, if it’s at the back of a border), leave the stems up to 60cm long.
Step 3
Remove any dead stubs and branches using the pruning saw or loppers. Cut these back flush with the main trunk to minimise the chance of dieback. Also thin out any crossing branches to prevent rubbing, and remove any thin twiggy growth sprouting from the base. Don’t worry that you’re being too brutal, as buddleja is so vigorous that it will quickly re-grow.
Step 4
Aim to produce a short, strong framework of five to six main branches. It doesn’t matter if you can’t see many green shoots, as buddleja will produce new growth from underneath the bark. Fork lightly around the base to relieve any compaction you’ve caused by walking on the soil, and apply a mulch to the soil surface to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Frequently asked questions
How do you prune an overgrown buddleia? An overgrown buddleia can be pruned in the same way. Remove top growth first, so you can see what you're doing, and then use a pruning saw and loppers to prune back to a framework 30-60cm above ground level. It's very hard to kill a buddleia so don't worry about hard pruning such a large shrub. Do you deadhead buddleia? Yes, deadheading buddleia can prolong its flowering season, providing more garden interest as well as more nectar for pollinators.
]]> How to grow lavatera https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-lavatera/ Mon, 24 Nov 2025 09:08:09 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-lavatera/ Advice on growing and caring for lavatera (mallow), in our detailed Grow Guide. Lavatera is a genus of annuals, biennials, perennials or shrubs that have large open blooms in white or pink. Lavatera are part of the mallow family and have recently been moved to the Malva genus, but are still widely known as lavatera. With their long flowering season and range of different plant types, lavateras are good for a variety of planting situations, including growing as border shrubs, filling gaps or including in a summer container display. Lavatera flowers are attractive to bees and other pollinating insects.
Where to grow lavatera
Lavatera grow best in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun, ideally in a sheltered spot out of cold, drying winds. They won’t thrive in windy positions or waterlogged soil.
When to plant lavatera
Annual lavatera can be sown from seed in early spring and planted out in late spring. Perennial varieties can be bought as young plants and planted out in spring, providing the ground isn't waterlogged or frozen.
How to plant lavatera
Sow annual lavatera seeds in trays under cover. When seedlings are large enough to handle, pot on and harden off before planting out into borders. When planting perennial or shrubby lavatera, dig a generous hole, adding compost for drainage and a handful of mycorrhizal fungi to encourage good root development.
If you're growing lavatera in a container, choose a compact variety and a container with good drainage holes. Plant perennial and shrubby lavatera in a soil-based compost, such as peat-free John Innes No. 3. Place the container in a sheltered, sunny spot, for example in front of a south-facing wall.
How to care for lavatera
Lavatera are easy to grow and shouldn't require feeding or watering once established in the ground. Plants in containers will benefit from annual top dressing with an organic mulch and they'll need regular watering in hot weather.
One advantage of growing lavatera in containers is that it's quick and easy to bring tender varieties into an unheated greenhouse over the winter. Plants in containers only require minimal watering during the winter.
How to prune lavatera
Herbaceous perennial lavatera will die back in winter. Leave dead material over the winter months to provide shelter for wildlife and cut back in early spring before the new growth begins. Prune shrubby lavatera, such as Lavatera maritima, in spring. Cut stems back to within a bud or two of the previous year’s cuts to maintain the woody framework and remove any dead, diseased, damaged or crossing stems.
Sub-shrubs like ‘Barnsley’ and ‘Barnsley Baby’ should be tidied in autumn and then pruned hard in late spring by cutting stems back to 30cm from ground level. Reduce the stems of any large lavateras by up to half in autumn to prevent damage from wind rock.
How to propagate lavatera
If you want to grow your existing annual or biennial lavatera in subsequent years, let some flowerheads develop into seedpods and save the seeds. You can then sow these seeds in spring, but they might not come true, which means any new plants won’t necessarily look like their parents. Alternatively, you can take softwood cuttings from perennial and shrubby lavatera.
Pests and diseases
Lavatera are generally pest-free but can be prone to rust and fungal diseases. Remove affected foliage as and when you spot signs of disease.
Advice on buying lavatera
- Different types of lavatera plants vary in size, so choose a variety that will fit in your space
- While you can buy shrubby lavatera from garden centres, you may find more choice at a specialist nursery
- Check your lavatera for signs of pests and disease before you buy or as soon as you unpack it
Where to buy lavatera online
Lavatera varieties to grow
Lavatera trimestris ‘Mont Blanc’ is a large bushy annual plant with masses of huge white, trumpet-shaped flowers, which are extremely attractive to bees. Height x Spread: 1m x 45cm
Lavatera trimestris 'Beauty Mix’ is is an annual variety that produces pink and white flowers on tall, bushy plants through the summer. The Royal Horticultural Society has awarded it its prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 90cm x 45cm
Lavatera maritima, also known as the tree mallow, is a fast-growing medium-sized, semi-evergreen shrub. White flowers with a flush of purple appear from spring through to autumn. The RHS has given it the Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 1.5m x 1m
Lavatera ‘Barnsley’, now known as Malva x clementii 'Barnsley', is a bushy shrub variety with soft pink flowers with a darker centre. 'Barnsley' has also received the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 2m x 1.5m
Lavatera 'Barnsley Baby', now known as Malva x clementii 'Barnsley Baby', is a compact shrub variety. The white flowers of this dwarf lavatera develop a soft pink flush and the pink eyes become darker as the flowers age. H x S: 75cm x 60cm
Frequently asked questions
Does lavatera come back every year?
Perennial lavatera will come back every year, although plants are generally short-lived and are likely to last around five years. Annual varieties will flower until the first frosts in the year they are sown and then die.
How many times a year does lavatera flower?
Lavatera flowers once a year, but the flowering period is long, lasting from June until September.
]]> How to grow berberis https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-berberis/ Thu, 23 Oct 2025 10:03:46 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-berberis/ Advice on caring for berberis, in this detailed Grow Guide. Berberis is a genus of thorny shrubs with bright spring flowers and dark berries – deciduous varieties have striking autumn foliage. Known as barberry or barberries, they're a good choice for growing as low hedging or as border plants, and come in a range of sizes.
There are two main parent plants for the wide choice of cultivars: Darwin's barberry (Berberis darwinii) is native to Chile and Argentina and is upright, evergreen and bears small, spiny leaves, yellow flowers and blue berries. Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii), is a deciduous shrub with brilliant red autumn foliage.
Berberis plants are toxic. Berberis berries and seeds can also be toxic, especially unripe berries and those of cultivated varieties. They should not be eaten, particularly by pregnant women, as they can cause uterine contractions.
Where to grow berberis
Grow berberis in well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade. They work well in borders as specimen shrubs and also make good formal or informal hedges, with the spiny stems helping to deter intruders. Birds eat the barberry fruits, so they're a good addition to a wildlife border.
When to plant berberis
Deciduous berberis in containers can be planted from autumn to spring as long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged. Evergreen berberis are best planted in mid-spring or mid-autumn, when soil conditions are warmer. In colder areas, spring planting is better.
Bare-root plants are available for planting in the dormant period between November and March. Bare-root plants are cost-effective – particularly for hedging – and have the advantage of not requiring plastic pots.
How to plant berberis
Wear gloves and eye protection when handling berberis plants, as the spines can cause harm.
If planting pot-grown berberis, dig a generous hole, position the plant so the top of the rootball sits level with the soil surface, back-fill with soil, firm and water thoroughly.
If planting a bare-root berberis, prepare the ground before the plant arrives. Soak the roots for an hour and lightly prune them before planting. Dig a hole (or trench if you're planting a hedge) and plant at the same depth as the soil mark, which is usually low down on the stem or just above the roots. Backfill with soil and firm gently, then water thoroughly. Add an organic mulch to help conserve moisture, making sure it doesn’t touch the stems.
If planting in a pot, choose a container only a few centimetres larger then the pot you bought it in, and part-fill with a loam-based compost such as John Innes No. 2. Position the rootball so it sits just below the rim of the pot, and backfill with compost. Water well.
How to care for berberis
Water berberis plants for the first year or two in dry periods, especially during the summer months. Most berberis in the ground won’t require feeding, but they benefit from an organic mulch with garden compost or leaf mould in spring.
Pot-grown berberis will need watering more frequently – sometimes every day in summer – and feeding fortnightly with a liquid fertiliser in the growing season. In spring, remove the top 5cm of compost and replace with fresh.
How to prune berberis
Prune evergreen or semi-evergreen berberis lightly once a year to maintain their shape. Formal hedges can be pruned twice a year. Bear in mind that, if cut back after flowering, shrubs will not produce berries, so trim in winter if you want to keep the fruit.
Prune deciduous berberis in winter, when plants are leafless and dormant. Most varieties need minimal pruning, just to keep their shape, but variegated varieties benefit from a harder prune, to enhance their spring display. Every few years, cut old stems to the ground to stimulate new growth. Dead stems are best removed in summer, when they're more visible.
How to propagate berberis
Propagate berberis by taking semi-ripe cuttings in late summer or early autumn.
Pests and diseases
Look out for small caterpillars that are the larvae of the berberis sawfly. These can quickly strip a plant of its leaves, which can be devastating for a berberis hedge. Check plants from April to October, and if you spot an infestation, organic and non-organic sprays are available, but tend to be more effective on young larvae.
Advice on buying berberis
- Decide whether you want an evergreen or deciduous shrub before you choose which berberis to buy
- Check the final size of the berberis you choose, as different species and varieties can vary significantly in size
- Always check plants for signs of damage or disease before planting
Where to buy berberis online
Berberis varieties to grow
Berberis darwinii 'Compacta' – a compact cultivar, bearing small red-bronze leaves which mature to green, and rich golden-yellow flowers, followed by edible blue berries. It's perfect for growing in a mixed or shrub border, and makes a good low hedge. Height x Spread: 0.9m x 0.9cm
Berberis x lologensis 'Apricot Queen' – with apricot orange flowers on long racemes, this is lovely spring-flowering shrub. It's best grown in a mixed border, with space to spread naturally. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 3m x 3m
Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea – a good shrub for year-round interest, with pale-yellow flowers in mid-spring and dark red-purple leaves that turn a brilliant shade of red in autumn. H x S: 1.5m x 1.5m
Berberis thunbergii ‘Tiny Gold’ – a compact golden-leafed variety that will brighten up a dark corner, with foliage turning red in the autumn. H x S: 0.5m x 0.5m
Frequently asked questions
How high does berberis grow?
The height of berberis depends on the species and variety. They can vary from 0.3m for compact types to up to 5m high for larger berberis.
What is berberis good for?
Berberis is ideal as a specimen plant (either for evergreen structure or vibrant deciduous foliage) and as a wildlife-friendly boundary hedge to keep out intruders.
]]> How to grow philadelphus (mock orange) https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-philadelphus-mock-orange/ Tue, 21 Oct 2025 09:30:48 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-philadelphus-mock-orange/ All you need to know about growing philadelphus (mock orange), in our practical Grow Guide. Mock orange (philadelphus), is an elegant, classic flowering shrub. It's long been a garden favourite for its pure white blooms, which are deliciously scented and reminiscent of orange blossom. They appear in late spring and summer against a smart backdrop of dark green, often arching foliage.
Mock orange is sometimes considered to be a one-hit wonder, as it fades into insignificance once the flowers have gone over. But, if you have room, it's worth including in the garden as its flowers are so abundant and their scent so intoxicating, especially early in the morning and in the evening. The single-flowered varieties also attract bees and butterflies.
Mock oranges look good at the back of a mixed border but also do well in a large container, near a seating area or doorway where you can make the most of the fragrant flowers. Some compact varieties are available for smaller gardens, and plants grow well in pots. Despite their delicate appearance, mock oranges are surprisingly tough, coping well in coastal and exposed areas.
Where to grow mock orange
Mock orange grows best in moist but well-drained soil in full sun or light shade. It looks good at the back of a mixed border. Avoid planting on heavy, wet soils or in heavy shade.
When to plant mock orange
The best time to plant mock orange is in spring or autumn when the ground is warm. This will give the shrub time to establish before summer or winter.
How to plant mock orange
If planting in the border, gig a generous hole, adding a spadeful of well-rotted compost and a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi. Plant so that the top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil. Back fill the hole, firm the soil and water in well. Mulch with organic matter such as garden compost or well rotted manure to help retain moisture.
Smaller varieties such as 'Petite Perfume Pink', which only reaches 1.2m tall, can be planted in pots. Fill a large container with a soil-based compost and plant with the rootball level with the top of the compost. Firm in well and water.
How to care for mock orange
Water philadelphus regularly until established and during dry spells for a couple of years. After that, it should get enough moisture from rainfall.
Mulch around shrubs in the spring, with a thick layer of compost or well-rotted manure.
Most philadelphus are hardy and don't need extra care over winter.
How to prune mock orange
To keep mock orange shrubs in shape, cut back the shoots after flowering, down to a strong bud. Thin out any stems that are weak, overcrowded or crossing and a few from the centre of the shrub to ensure there's good air circulation around the plant. Leave at least eight strong, well spaced young stems to carry next spring's flowers. Prune back the taller, older stems by about a third, cutting just above a strong sideshoot.
To prune an old shrub, cut out three or four of the thickest stems at the base, to encourage new ones to grow. Do this annually to get a succession of flowering stems. Flowers appear on stems from the previous season's growth, so if you have to hard prune an older, established philadelphus, be prepared to lose out on some flowers for a year or so while it recovers.
How to propagate mock orange
Mock orange shrubs can be propagated by softwood cuttings in the summer or hardwood cuttings from mid-autumn to late winter.
Take softwood cuttings between March and August from strong new shoots.
- Cut off a long shoot just above a leaf. Reduce this shoot to a 10cm cutting, cutting below a leaf joint or node.
- Remove leaves from the bottom of the cutting.
- Make a hole in a 7cm pot of compost using a pencil or a dibber and insert the cutting.
- Cover the pot with a plastic bag until the cutting has rooted.
Take hardwood cuttings between November and February.
- Cut a long pencil-thick shoot from your shrub, making a horizontal cut just above a leaf joint or bud.
- Remove the shoot tip just above a bud, then trim the bottom of the cutting, just below another bud, to create a cutting that is about 20cm long.
- Insert the cutting so that it's 10cm deep, in a pot of loam-based cuttings compost.
- Overwinter in a coldframe and keep the cuttings watered until shoots appear in the spring. Leave 12 months before transplanting your cuttings.
Pests and diseases
Philadelphus can be prone to aphids, which can make the leaves curl, but no other significant pests. Encourage wildlife into your garden to keep pests such as aphids at low levels. Aphids predators include ladybirds, earwigs and birds, such as blue tits. You can also squash aphids by hand or wash off by spraying the plant with a hose.
Keep well watered in dry periods to avoid powdery mildew.
Advice on buying mock orange (philadelphus)
- This shrub is sold under the name mock orange and its botanical name, philadelphus
- Check the final size of the shrub before buying to make sure it's suitable for your garden
- Always check plants for signs of damage or disease before planting
Where to buy philadelphus
Varieties of mock orange to grow
Philadelphus 'Virginal' – beautiful, double flowers with a beautiful scent. Height x Spread: 3m x 2.5m
- Buy Philadelphus 'Virginal' from Marshalls
Philadelphus 'Manteau d'Hermine' – a compact variety with double, pompon-like flowers. H x S: 75cm x 1.5m
- Buy Philadelphus 'Manteau d'Hermine' from Thompson & Morgan
Philadelphus 'White Rock’ (RHS AGM) – an upright shrub with cascading stems of fragrant, semi-double blooms. It's well suited to growing in a large container. H x S: 3m x 2.5m
- Buy Philadelphus 'White Rock' from Larch Cottage
Philadelphus ‘Lemoinei’ – an unusual variety with pale green leaves and white flowers that have a yellow centre. H x S: 1.5m x 1.5m
- Buy Philadelphus 'Lemoinei' from Thompson & Morgan
Philadelphus 'Belle Etoile' – a popular choice, this is a compact philadelphus with single white flowers with purple centres, appearing in late spring and early summer. H x S: 1.2m x 2.5m
- Buy Philadelphus 'Belle Etoile' from Thompson & Morgan
Philadelphus coronarius 'Aureus' – the foliage of this philadelphus is a limey-golden green when young, giving it an added zing. Flowers are white and scented. Needs shelter from strong sun. H x S: 2m x 2.5m
- Buy Philadelphus coronarius 'Aureus' from Suttons
Philadelphus 'Snowbelle' has double white flowers which are bowl-shaped and highly scented. H x S: 1.2m x 1.2m.
- Buy Philadelphus 'Snowbelle' from Thompson & Morgan
Frequently asked questions
Do philadelphus lose their leaves in winter?
Yes, mock orange shrubs are deciduous and will drop their leaves in the autumn.
Are philadelphus toxic to pets?
Philadelphus is not considered toxic to cats or dogs.
]]> How to grow wintersweet (chimonanthus) https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-chimonanthus-wintersweet/ Fri, 10 Oct 2025 10:04:31 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-chimonanthus-wintersweet/ All you need to know about growing wintersweet, in this detailed Grow Guide. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) is named for its strongly scented flowers that appear on bare stems in January and February – the scent of the blooms is so powerful that it can be detected several metres away. Wintersweet is a good choice for a medium-sized garden as, although it can reach 4m tall, it's relatively slow-growing. It's a great choice for planting next to a path or by your front door, so you can enjoy its fragrance throughout winter. It also works well as a cut flower.
Where to grow wintersweet
For best results grow Chimonanthus praecox in well-drained soil in a warm, sheltered position in full sun, such as against a south-facing wall. The warmest, most sheltered spot will ensure the most flowers, although it's worth noting that wintersweet can take several years to bloom after planting.
Bear in mind that the foliage of chimonanthus is not its best feature, so consider growing it next to a summer-flowering shrub, which will take attention away from it in the growing season.
When to plant wintersweet
The best time to plant wintersweet is in either autumn or spring, when the soil is moist and warm.
How to plant wintersweet
Water the shrub before planting. Dig a hole twice the width of the rootball but the same depth, then break up the base and side of the hole with a fork. Position the rootball so the top sits level with the surrounding soil, then backfill with soil, firm and water well. Continue watering until the plant is established.
If planting chimonanthus against a wall, install a training support such as a trellis or wires before planting. Position the support around 30cm above ground level, with a 5cm gap between the support and the wall. Space wires 30-45cm apart. Dig a planting hole 45cm away from the wall and plant at a 45º angle, with the wintersweet facing the wall. Backfill, firm and water as above. Tie in stems to the supports. If they're too short, push canes into the soil at an angle in the direction of the support, and tie stems to them instead.
If planting chimonanthus in a pot, choose a container slightly larger than the pot you bought it in, and part-fill with a loam-based compost such as John Innes Number 2, mixed with horticultural grit, to aid drainage. Sit the top of the rootball just below the rim of the pot, and backfill and water as above.
How to care for wintersweet
Chimonanthus praecox is a low-maintenance plant that doesn't need much year-round care. Water until established after planting, and then again in dry weather. Mulch around the base of the plant annually with a 5-7cm layer of well-rotted manure or compost.
Pot-grown chimonanthus will need watering more regularly – as often as every day in very hot weather – and feeding fortnightly with a balanced liquid fertiliser. Younger plants will need repotting into a pot the next size up, every year or so. If you don't repot your chimonanthus, top-dress in spring by removing the top 5cm of compost and replacing with fresh.
How to prune wintersweet
Prune in early spring, after flowering to avoid cutting off any buds. Keep pruning to a minimum, removing dead, diseased or crossing branches and reshaping if needed.
If training wintersweet against a wall, start by pruning to create a permanent woody framework, such as a fan or espalier shape, but you can also opt for something more informal. Once the framework is established, annual pruning is done to simply shorten sideshoots to two to four buds, and remove any stems growing towards or away from the wall. Tie new growth in to the support trellis or wires.
How to propagate wintersweet
You can propagate Chimonanthus praecox by seed, but the plant will take a long time to mature and up to 15 years to flower. To ensure reliable blooms from cultivated varieties, it’s best to propagate by softwood cuttings or layering in the summer.
Pests and diseases
Chimonanthus praecox is generally pest and disease free.
Advice on buying wintersweet
- Wintersweet may also be sold under its botanical name, Chimonanthus praecox
- Always check plants for signs of damage or disease before buying.
- Wintersweet is slow growing, so it's worth spending a bit more for a good-sized plant
Where to buy wintersweet
Wintersweet varieties to grow
Chimonanthus praecox 'Luteus' – the flowers are larger than the species and completely yellow, without the purple inner petals. It blooms later in winter than original wintersweet, but its fragrance is not as strong. Height x Spread: 4m x 2.5m
Chimonanthus praecox 'Grandiflorus' has larger leaves and deeper yellow flowers than the species, but they still have the central purple blotch. H x S: 4m x 2.5m
- Buy Chimonanthus praecox 'Grandiflorus' from Cowell's Garden Centre
Chimonanthus praecox – the species is the easiest to find available to buy online, and has the classic yellow flowers with purple at their centre. H x S: 4m x 2.5m
- Buy Chimonanthus praecox from Crocus
Frequently asked questions
What does wintersweet smell like?
The flowers have a strong scent that is often described as sweet and spicy. Indoors, it only takes a few stems to fill a whole room with fragrance.
What does wintersweet look like in summer?
This bushy shrub has narrow green leaves and doesn't offer much interest through summer. Combine it with other shrubs and perennials that have summer appeal.
]]> Five steps to better borders https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/maintain-the-garden/five-steps-to-better-borders/ https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/maintain-the-garden/five-steps-to-better-borders/ Are your borders looking tired? Follow our five steps to rejuvenate them. October is the perfect time to deal with borders that you’ve been disappointed with during the growing season. This job can be a bit daunting, but with a little planning, it’s easy to breathe life back into your borders to give your garden year-round interest. In the video above, Arit Anderson shows how to assess your borders in autumn, how to improve the colour flow and add extra sparkle, to ensure your borders are revived ready for next year.
An autumn sort-out is perfect if your borders are looking tired and unbalanced, if there are shrubs that aren’t flowering, or perennials that have become congested. It's also the perfect opportunity to assess what you already have growing, and see if you can add a few new plants to create further interest. Don’t know where to start? Just follow these five simple steps.
1. Make a plan
When planning a border, the first thing to do is get your idea down on paper. Come up with a word to describe how you want your border to feel – ‘hot’, ‘bold’, ‘romantic’ – it’s to keep you focused on the final look. Measure the area, noting down all existing plants and marking the ones you want to leave in their present position. If you plan to alter the border’s shape or size, now's a good time to draw up any changes. Check where the sun rises and sets, as this will help you ensure sun-loving plants get the sun they need and shady spots are filled with plants that will thrive there.
Designing a border is all about layers. The tallest layer is for any tall trees you have space for – in a small garden you may need to skip this. The second layer is for smaller trees. Next comes shrubs, followed by perennials, and low-growing plants such as ground cover and small bulbs. Ensuring you have interest across all these layers will give you a great checklist when planning your space. When you go to the garden centre, always try to have a clear idea beforehand of what you're trying to add to the border.
2. Prune your shrubs
Pruning is an easy way to bring an overgrown shrubby border back to its former glory. Firstly, remove any dead, damaged and diseased stems, as well as crossing stems rubbing against each other. Next, stand back and look at the shrub to work out how you can make it more balanced. Look for a healthy side shoot that you can cut back to an outward-facing bud. You want to encourage new stems to grow outwards, rather than into the middle.
Most deciduous shrubs, such as dogwood, smoke bush and spiraea, respond well to hard pruning in winter. Remove the lower branches of large shrubs and trees to reveal the main stems. This will transform a bulky shrub into a real feature, and let in more light and air. For a total rejuvenation, cut back all stems to 20-30cm from the ground, then give the plant a feed and mulch in spring. If you want to move a shrub, bear in mind that it may not survive the move. Relocate evergreens in October or late March, early April, and deciduous shrubs from November to March. Remember to keep them well watered.
3. Rejuvenate your perennials
Perennials can become congested over time, with all the vibrant, flowering growth on the outside of the clump and little going on in the middle. Other perennials can become thug-like and take over borders, killing less-vigorous plants. The best way to solve these problems is to dig them up and divide them. Done every few years, this will rejuvenate tired perennials and stop others spreading too much.
Divide summer-flowering plants in autumn or spring, while spring-flowering plants should be divided in summer to give them time to establish before the following year. Dig them up with a spade, taking care to keep as much of the roots attached as possible. Then push two garden forks, back to back, into the centre of the plant and use them as levers to tease the rootball apart – you could also cut through the middle with a knife or spade. When you replant your new bits of plant, make sure you keep them well watered. Divide rootballs by hand, or use two forks back to back if they're congested.
4. Remove weeds
In mature borders, weeds can hide among perennials and take hold before you realise. Annual weeds, like chickweed or hairy bittercress, are easy to remove by hand or by lightly hoeing, so get them before they set seed. Perennial weeds take more time and effort. The key is to remove all of the roots, which is sometimes easier said than done. Hoeing or digging up when they first appear will keep on top of them, and many perennial weeds can be gradually weakened and removed over time.
5. Treat yourself to new plants
Before you head to the nursery, make a list of the plants you already have, then assess your border. See how much space there is to fill and what your border is missing – perhaps it needs more colour, late-season interest or height? Don’t just splurge on lots of plants that will all flower at the same time, leaving you with nothing the rest of the year.
If you have lots of space to fill and a tight budget, try growing perennials from seed, or buy plants that you can divide immediately into two or three pieces, or that you can take cuttings from. Also sow annuals to fill in gaps while you build up your stocks. Early October is a great time to sow hardy annuals, such as poppies, cornflowers and pot marigolds for flowers next summer. Prepare the soil by adding compost and water well to help new plants to establish.
]]> Growing elder trees https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-elder/ Fri, 25 Jul 2025 13:06:12 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-elder/ Find out how to grow elder, both as a shrub and a tree, in our detailed Grow Guide. Common elder (Sambucus nigra) is a pretty, native shrub or small tree with tiny white, fragrant flowers in early summer followed by small black fruits. The foliage is also attractive, with green and dark, almost black-leaved varieties available, some with very finely cut and highly ornamental leaves. Elder flowers can be used to infuse syrups, cordial and gin and elder berries can be used to make syrups and wine – they should not be eaten raw as they can cause nausea. Commonly found in country hedgerows, allotments and gardens, elder is a good choice for a mixed border or mixed native hedge, or a wildlife or woodland planting scheme.
Identifying elder trees
Elder trees have rough, furrowed bark and pinnate leaves with five to seven leaflets. Flowers are large, cream sprays, with a strong fragrance, and appear from May. They mature into clusters of small, purple-black berries.
How long do elder trees live?
Elder trees are relatively short-lived, compared to other types of tree. They can live for up to 60 years, although regular pruning may see garden specimens live longer.
Size, height and spread
If left unpruned, elder trees grow to a height of around 15m, but more typically reach heights of around 4-8m in gardens. Pruning can restrict its size considerably, and elder is commonly grown as a shrub in gardens. A regularly pruned elder can maintain a height and spread of 4m x 2m.
Value to wildlife
Elder flowers are attractive to pollinators and birds such as blackbirds eat the berries. Several moth caterpillars feed on elder tree leaves, including the white-spotted pug and buff ermine.
Growing elder trees
Where to grow an elder tree
Elder is tolerant of most soils, but will get off to a good start in moist but well-drained soil. Choose a position in full sun to partial shade.
How to plant an elder tree
Plant a young elder tree in autumn, digging a generous hole and adding mycorrhizal fungi to encourage root growth. Plant bare-root whips and small elder trees from autumn to spring, providing the soil isn't frozen.
- How to plant trees
How to care for an elder tree
Elder trees need very little care, once established. Keep newly planted trees well watered, and water established trees in very dry weather.
How to prune an elder tree
If you're growing elder as a shrub, prune it back annually to maintain its shape. Prune hard – down to a few stumps in the ground – for the best results. New stems bear bigger, better coloured leaves than those left unpruned.
In this video guide, Monty Don explains how much to prune away and where to make the cuts:
View Green Video on the source website
How to propagate elder
Take semi-ripe cuttings in late summer and early autumn, or hardwood cuttings in winter.
Pests and diseases
Elder flower tree is a tough, native tree, which rarely suffers from pests or diseases. Some species suffer from blackfly on young shoots. These are usually removed by birds and other predators, but you could also use soap sprays to manually remove them.
- How to deal with aphids
Harvesting elderflowers
Elderflowers appear from May to June. Pick them on a dry morning, when cream-coloured and covered in a yellowish pollen. It's important to make sure they smell good – the scent of elderflowers can quickly sour so avoid picking any that don't smell fresh (some liken the bad smell to urine).
Storing elderflowers
Elderflowers can be dried to use in drinks recipes, such as wines and cordials, later. Simply pick the fresh flowers on a dry day, shake off any insects and lay them out on a flat, dry surface, such as cardboard or similar. Keep somewhere warm, dry and shady but with good air circulation. The flowers will be dried when you can rub them from the stems. Seal the dried flowers in an airtight container until you're ready to use them.
Advice on buying an elder tree
- Ensure that the variety you have chosen won’t outgrow the space in your garden
- Buy plants from specialist tree nurseries to get the widest range of different varieties
- Always check plants for pests and diseases before you buy or as soon as online deliveries arrive
Where to buy elder tree online
Elder varieties to grow
Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’ – good for a long season of interest, with finely cut, almost black foliage, and pink-flushed blooms in summer. In autumn, its leaves turn a rich red.
- Buy Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’ from Crocus
Sambucus nigra ‘Marginata’ – a variegated elder with good year-round interest. Small scented, white flowers appear in spring, followed by black berries in late summer, and the foliage is striking with yellow-margined, dark green leaves.
- Buy Sambucus nigra ‘Marginata’ from Shire Plants
Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’ – a very ornamental cultivar with almost black foliage and sweet, lemon scented, pale pink flowers in early summer.
- Buy Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’ from Burncoose
Sambucus nigra ‘Golden Tower’ – this has a more narrow, upright habit, which makes it a good choice for smaller gardens. The finely cut foliage is a vibrant golden green colour with clusters of white flowers appearing in summer.
- Buy Sambucus nigra ‘Golden Tower’ from Ornamental Trees
Sambucus nigra f. porphyrophylla 'Guincho Purple’ – grows up to 6m high, with stunning foliage that starts out green, turning purple and red through the seasons. Typical elder flowers appear in spring with black fruits following in late summer and autumn.
- Buy Sambucus nigra f. porphyrophylla 'Guincho Purple’ from Burncoose
Sambucus racemosa 'Sutherland Gold' – a medium-sized elder, typical clusters of creamy flowers appear in spring, but this cultivar is prized for its bright, golden yellow, finely cut foliage.
- Buy Sambucus racemosa 'Sutherland Gold' from Burncoose
Frequently asked questions
How do I take cuttings of my Sambucus nigra?
Take semi-ripe cuttings in late summer to autumn. Trim cuttings to around 15cm, cutting just below a leaf node. Cut off lower leaves, ensuring three to four leaves remain, and remove the tip. Dip the cuttings in hormone rooting powder and then pot them up into pots of cuttings compost. Water the cuttings but don’t ever let them sit in water, and cover with a polythene bag to retain humidity around the leaves. Place on a heated propagator to encourage rooting.
You can also take hardwood cuttings in winter. Trim each cutting to 20cm in length and remove the shoot tip just above a bud, and trim the bottom just below another bud. Dip each cutting into rooting powder and insert them 10cm deep into a pot filled with cuttings compost and overwinter them in a cold frame. Leave plants for at least 12 months before transplanting.
]]> 12 best climbing roses https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/climbing-roses-to-grow/ Mon, 07 Jul 2025 10:43:41 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/climbing-roses-to-grow/ We list our pick of the best climbing roses, including roses for fragrance and pollinators. Climbing roses are beautiful, long-lived and often fragrant plants that can be grown up or over walls, fences, arches, obelisks and more.
For a classic look, try growing several varieties of climbing rose together – gather ideas from the rose gardens at places like Alnwick Garden and Hever Castle. If your climbing rose is scented, plant it near a patio or seating area where you can enjoy its fragrant blooms. For a wildlife-friendly option, choose climbing roses with single or semi-double blooms, where you can see the central part of the flower. This means bees and other pollinators can access the food stored in the flower. Hip-bearing roses, such as dog rose (Rosa canina) and Rosa rubiginosa, are excellent for birds and small mammals in winter. Some climbing roses, particularly those with soft leaves, are used by leafcutter bees to line their nests.
More on climbing roses:
- How to train and prune a climbing rose
- How to grow climbing roses
- The difference between climbing and rambling roses
- Best climbers to grow
Advice on buying climbing roses
- Always choose a healthy specimen with no signs of damage, yellowing leaves or pest infestations
- Make sure you buy the right rose for the right spot - pay attention to its growing requirements, and make sure you have the perfect conditions available
- You can save money by buying bare-root roses in autumn, or opt for year-round convenience by buying more expensive potted rose plants
Where to buy climbing roses
Browse our pick of the best climbing roses below.
Rosa 'Pippin'
Rosa 'Pippin' has medium-sized double blooms that are a lovely warm pink colour, with just a hint of orange on the petals. Repeat-flowering. The flowers have a sweet fragrance, so this variety is ideal for growing next to seating areas where its fragrance can be appreciated.
Rosa 'Parkdirektor Riggers'
The blooms of 'Parkdirektor Riggers' are an intense shade of red. The flowers have little fragrance, but they're semi-double, so are more easily accessed by pollinators. Repeat-flowering. Consider this variety for a north-facing wall, as it's more tolerant of shade.
Rosa 'Claire Austin'
'Claire Austin' is a popular variety with luxurious, cream blooms. The flowers have a strong fragrance, said to smell like vanilla and myrrh. It's repeat-flowering and particularly disease-resistant.
Rosa 'Compassion'
The salmon-pink flowers of 'Compassion' are flushed with a warm apricot colour at their centre. This repeat-flowering variety has a strong, sweet fragrance and has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit.
Rosa 'Iceberg'
For pure white blooms, look no further than 'Iceberg'. The lightly scented flowers are semi-double, meaning they have an old rose look while still providing food for pollinators. Vigorous and repeat-flowering. Holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit.
Rosa 'Wollerton Old Hall'
'Wollerton Old Hall' has rounded, pastel-orange blooms that are almost peony-like in appearance. Plant it next to seating areas or near the house to appreciate the powerful fragrance. It is repeat-flowering.
Rosa 'Constance Spry'
'Constance Spry' is a vigorous rose with an arching growth habit, so it makes an ideal climbing rose. The large rose-pink blooms have a rich myrrh aroma. This variety holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit.
Rosa 'Crown Princess Margareta'
Rosa 'Crown Princess Margareta' has mid-orange rosettes, packed with ruffled blooms. Repeat-flowering, highly fragrant and grows well in partial shade. This variety combines particularly well with purple flowers.
Rosa 'The Generous Gardener'
A strong, disease-resistant variety, Rosa 'The Generous Gardener' is ideal for growing over arches and pergolas. The pale pink rosettes are strongly scented and attractively shaped. Repeat-flowering, it also holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit.
Rosa 'Mary Delany'
This unusual climber bears beautiful, pointed buds, which open to bright pink double roses. The flowers eventually open to reveal golden yellow stamens. Flowering prolifically throughout summer, it has a light, old rose fragrance. Rosa 'Mary Delany' was previously called Rosa 'Mortimer Sackler'.
Rosa 'Gertrude Jekyll'
'Gertrude Jekyll' is a highly fragrant, floriferous climbing rose, bearing masses of bright pink, fully double flowers with an old rose scent.
Rosa 'Gardener's Gold'
'Gardener's Gold' is a popular climbing rose that produces bright yellow flowers. It can start flowering as early as May and quickly repeat flowers. It has a light, spicy fragrance, and healthy, glossy green leaves.
Watch as Monty Don demonstrates how to prune a climbing rose, in this video guide:
View Green Video on the source website]]> How to grow peonies https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/10-beautiful-peonies-to-grow/ Fri, 25 Apr 2025 15:00:38 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/10-beautiful-peonies-to-grow/ Find out all you need to know about growing peonies, in this detailed Grow Guide. When it comes to flamboyant flowers, few plants can beat the hardy, deciduous peony – the giant blooms can often be the size of dinner plates. The blooms are often wonderfully fragrant and make luxurious cut flowers. Depending on the variety, peonies season of flowering is from April to July. Although peonies are often costly to buy and are slow to get going, taking several years to start blooming abundantly, this is counterbalanced by their long life that can be many decades.
There are three types of peony: herbaceous types, which grow to around 90 cm high and die back to ground level every winter, tree peonies, which are taller, to around 1.5-2 m high with a woody framework of stems, and intersectional hybrids, which are herbaceous in habit but crossed with tree peonies to give sturdiness, longer flowering and attractive foliage.
Where to grow peonies
Grow peonies in a sheltered spot in full sun to partial shade, in rich but well-drained soil. If your soil is thin or poor, or if the texture is heavy and slow to drain, mix in plenty of well-rotted organic matter before planting – never plant peonies in waterlogged soil. Most herbaceous peonies need a neutral or slightly alkaline soil.
Grow peonies in borders, siting herbaceous ones in the middle so other plants conceal the foliage, which can look tatty as plants die back. Site tree peonies towards the back of a border.
How to plant peonies
Dig a hole larger than the roots and ensure the crown (the bud tip) is 5cm below the soil surface. Ensure you don't plant them too deeply, as this will yield poor results. Autumn is the best time of year to plant, so your peony establishes before the next year’s growth. Spring is the next best time to plant, as long as you can keep your new peony watered. Whatever the time of year, water in immediately after planting.
If buying bare-root peonies, plant them as soon as they arrive. If that isn’t possible, remove packaging and keep in a bucket of compost or pop into a bed or border temporarily.
In this video guide, Monty Don show's how to plant a herbaceous peony, 'Sarah Bernhardt' and taller tree peonies. He explains how planting depth is crucial with peonies – and how to get it right.
View Green Video on the source website
Where to buy peonies online
How to care for peonies
View Green Video on the source website
In the video above, the experts at Binny Plants share their top tips for caring for peonies.
Water during dry spells for the first year, until established. Thereafter, peonies benefit from watering during dry spring weather, giving an occasional but thorough watering as this is when buds are forming.
Once established, peonies are easy to look after. In autumn, wait for the foliage of herbaceous and intersectional peonies to die back fully before cutting to the ground. Tree peonies do not need pruning – all you need to do is remove the faded seed heads. Don’t be tempted to pick off the faded foliage, let it fall off naturally instead.
Use plant supports to prop up peonies with large, heavy flowers.
In winter, herbaceous and intersectional peonies are dormant, and once growth has been cut back there’s no way to see where they are. Marking their site with a label or similar avoids accidental damage, especially when weeding borders, to avoid stepping on the newly forming buds of the herbaceous types.
In borders, feed peonies once a year in spring or autumn with a general slow-release fertiliser and mulch the soil over the roots, keeping the crown clear.
Sometimes tree peonies form suckers around the base of the plant, which appear from below ground and have leaves that are different in appearance. Here, David Hurrion explains what to do with them:
View Green Video on the source website
How to propagate peonies
Divide well-established plants of herbaceous peonies in autumn, between October and early November. Use a garden knife or sharp spade to create good-sized divisions that each have three to five buds, and replant immediately into soil that has been refreshed with plenty of well-rotted compost.
How to take peony cuttings
While tree peonies are woody and not suited to division, it can be possible to propagate them by taking cuttings, layering a pliable stem, or sowing seed. Tree peonies aren’t easy plants to propagate, though, so be prepared for failure.
Take cuttings in late summer to early autumn. Prepare cuttings 10-15cm long, cutting just below a leaf joint. Dip the base in hormone rooting powder, place in a deep pot of cuttings compost mixed with a little perlite, and place in a heated propagator until rooted.
Pests and diseases
Leaves or stems with dark spots are symptoms of the fungal infection peony wilt. This is a form of botrytis that causes the stems to rot. Good air movement helps to prevent the disease, so avoid planting peonies too closely together or to closely with other plants. With older peonies that have formed dense clumps, remove the weaker, smaller stems to further encourage air movement.
Cut off any affected leaves or stems as soon as you notice dark spots on the leaves or stems, as this will help to reduce the spread of the fungus. Because peony wilt spreads easily, sterilise the blades of secateurs between each cut, using a cloth moistened with garden disinfectant or methylated spirits. Don’t compost infected material, instead, dispose of it by fire or in garden waste bins.
Advice on buying peonies
- Peonies are slow to establish, so buy the biggest peony you can afford, for the best display as soon as possible
- While plenty of peonies are available from garden centres, you may find more choice at a specialist nursery
- Check your peony for signs of damage and pests before you buy/as soon as you unpack it
Where to buy peonies online
Great peonies to grow
Peony flowers come in a vast range of colours and shapes. Pink peonies are the most abundant, offering a wealth of shades from palest blush to rich magenta. There are also white, apricot, and red peonies, and flower shapes including single, semi-double, and fully double. Explore some of these amazing peonies in this list of best peonies to grow.
Frequently asked questions
What is the downside of peonies?
Peonies take several years to become established and start blooming strongly. While herbaceous peonies are beautiful in flower, their season is fairly short and they offer nothing of interest at other times of year.
When do peonies bloom?
Depending on the variety, peonies bloom from April to July.
]]> How to grow lilac https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-lilac/ Mon, 24 Feb 2025 09:38:32 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-lilac/ Find out all you need to know about growing lilac (Syringa), in this detailed Grow Guide. Lilacs (Syringa), are classic garden shrubs and small trees in the the Oleaceae or olive family. They bear panicles of fragrant, tubular, single or double flowers in shades of purple, pink and white, from late spring to early summer. Lilac flowers are excellent for cutting and are edible, too. Sadly, despite blooming in spring and producing a strong fragrance, lilac flowers are not attractive to bees.
The most common lilac is Syringa vulgaris, or tree lilac. Native to east Asia and south-east Europe, it was much loved by the Edwardians and was widely grown in suburban gardens before going out of fashion. However there is now renewed interest in lilac as it's easy to grow and bears very fragrant flowers.
There are are many lilac varieties to choose from – some are compact and are suitable for smaller gardens or pots, while larger types can be grown as a standalone specimen in a lawn or at the back of a mixed border.
You can expect lilacs to put on around 30-60cm of growth a year. To extend the season of interest, you could try growing a late-flowering clematis through the larger types.
How to grow lilac
Lilacs are easy to grow and make an attractive feature plant in a border. Choose a sunny spot that has well-drained soil and plant during autumn or spring to allow your plant to settle in while the ground is warm and the weather is not too cold or hot.
Lilac: jump links
- Planting lilac
- Caring for lilac
- Propagating lilac
- Growing lilac: problem-solving
- Buying lilac
- Best lilac to grow
Where to grow lilac
Lilacs grow best in a sunny location, in well-drained, fertile, humus-rich soil that is alkaline to neutral. Lilacs are good plants for chalky or alkaline soils. Grow them alongside other late spring or early summer flowering shrubs such as ceanothus or underplant with perennials like hardy geraniums.
When to plant lilac
The best time to plant lilac is in autumn or spring, when the soil is warm and not waterlogged or frozen. Avoid planting during summer if possible as it will be harder for the plant to establish when conditions are dry and hot.
How to plant lilac
Dig a generous hole and plant your lilac to the level of the soil line. Back-fill and firm down the soil gently around the plant. Water in well. Mulch after planting to help retain moisture in the soil. If you're growing lilac in a pot, choose one that is at least 60cm in diameter. Plant into John Innes No.3 compost with some sand or grit added for drainage.
Can you plant lilac cuttings directly in the ground?
Lilac is best propagated by softwood cuttings in spring, and these are more reliable when potted up indoors and grown on before planting outside. However you can dig up lilac suckers and replant these elsewhere to create new lilac plants – dig up the sucker, cutting it away from the parent plant with some roots. Plant it in its new location and water well. The best time to do this is in spring.
How to care for lilac
Lilacs are low-maintenance shrubs but newly planted specimens will need regularly watering until established, especially during hot weather. Mulch lilac annually in spring. Spread a layer of organic matter, such as well-rotted garden compost, around the plant, leaving a gap around the stem.
How to take lilac cuttings
Propagate lilacs by softwood cuttings. The best time to take softwood cuttings is between March and August.
You can also propagate lilac from the suckers that often sprout from the base of the plant. Simply dig them up with some roots attached and replant.
How to prune lilac
As the flowers fade towards midsummer, you can deadhead spent blooms on smaller shrubs. Prune shrubs for the desired height and shape after flowering, also removing any dead, diseased or dying wood. Cut off the flowers and the young stem, avoiding cutting into old wood. The young stem will be flexible unlike old wood.
If you need to renovate an overgrown or leggy old tree, prune when the plant is dormant, in winter. Lilacs respond well to hard pruning and you can cut the whole plant back to around 1m above ground. Because they flower on the previous year's wood, you will lose the flowers for a at least one year. Alternatively you could remove some of the stems over a period of two or three years, cutting them back to the ground – this will ensure that you still enjoy some spring flowers.
Pests and diseases
Lilacs are not usually affected by many pests, but may be attacked by lilac leaf mining moths or thrips. These do not usually harm the vigour of the plant.
Lilac blight causes die back, distorted and blemished leaves and ultimately, leaf drop. Blossoms can also be affected, turning brown and limp. Pruning out the affected branches, well beyond signs of infection, in dry sunny weather may help. This also will improve air circulation, helping to control the spread.
Lilacs can also be affected by honey fungus.
Lilac problems
There are a couple of common problems with lilacs:
Poor flowering in spring could be due to poorly drained soil or not enough sunshine – lilacs need a sunny spot. Late frosts can also spoil the flowers.
Suckers may spring from the base of the plant. If you don't want to propagate from them, tear or wrench (rather than cut) the shoots away. This can be done from midsummer onwards and will help to prevent them regrowing.
Advice on buying lilac
- You can find lilacs at garden centres but for the best selection, look online
- Check the ultimate height and spread, as these can vary considerably
- Always check plants for signs of damage and disease before planting
Where to buy lilac online
Lilac varieties to grow
Syringa 'Red Pixie'
Syringa ‘Red Pixie’ is a compact lilac, bearing masses of fragrant pink flowers, which open from red buds. It often then flowers again in late summer or early autumn. Perfect for a small garden, it can also be grown in a large pot. Height x Spread: 1.8m x 1.8m
Syringa meyeri 'Palibin'
Syringa meyeri 'Palibin' is a Korean lilac that bears masses of panicles of fragrant, purple-pink flowers from late spring to early summer, contrasting with oval, dark green leaves. It’s ideal for growing in a sunny ornamental border. Compact and slow growing, it's suitable for smaller gardens or growing in pots. H x S: 1.5m x 1.5m
Syringa vulgaris 'Primrose'
Syringa vulgaris 'Primrose' has white flowers that mature to cream-yellow and have an exceptional lilac scent. H x S: 3m x 3m
Syringa vulgaris 'Sensation'
Syringa vulgaris 'Sensation' is a striking lilac with unusual, purple-red flowers that are edged with white. H x S: 4m x 4m
Syringa vulgaris 'Katherine Havemeyer'
A spreading shrub with double, lavender blue flowers, set against heart-shaped leaves. H x S: 4m x 4m
- Buy Syringa vulgaris 'Katherine Havemeyer' from Crocus
- Buy Syringa vulgaris 'Katherine Havemeyer' from Thompson & Morgan
Syringa vulgaris 'Madame Lemoine'
A beautiful large double white-flowered variety bred by the French breeder Victor Lemoine in 1890, and still going strong today. H x S: 7m x 7m
- Buy Syringa vulgaris 'Madame Lemoine' from Primrose
- Buy Syringa vulgaris 'Madame Lemoine' from Crocus
Syringa vulgaris 'Charles Joly'
Stunning, double purple-red flowers. H x S: 4m x 4m
- Buy Syringa vulgaris 'Charles Joly' from Crocus
- Buy Syringa vulgaris 'Charles Joly' from Thompson & Morgan
Syringa emodi 'Aureovariegata'
The Himalayan lilac, Syringa emodi 'Aureovariegata', has variegated green foliage and fragrant white flowers in late spring and early summer. H x S: 5m x 4m
Frequently asked questions
Do lilacs come back every year? Yes, lilacs are deciduous shrubs so will flower every year in early summer. In autumn, lilacs lose their leaves and will produce new foliage the following spring. Is there a difference between a lilac tree and a lilac bush? Some lilac varieties can be grown as a tree or a bush. Syringa vulgaris, the common lilac, grows into a large bush of around 7m high, whereas the Korean lilac, Syringa meyeri 'Palabin', can be grown as a bush or trained into a small standard, which reaches around 1.5m tall. Nurseries also offer several varieties as either bushes or trees. Is lilac invasive in the UK? Lilac is not considered invasive in the UK, but many varieties, including common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, do have a suckering habit. These lilacs produce a lot of suckers. If you cut these down to ground level, you'll find the plant produces a lot more new shoots. If you have a small garden, or are looking for a lilac that doesn't spread in this way, do your research before buying. Look for a dwarf variety or one sold as 'non-suckering'.
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