BBC Gardeners World Magazine https://www.gardenersworld.com/tag/spring-flowering-bulb Mon, 09 Feb 2026 11:37:26 GMT en hourly 1 New Year action plan https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/new-year-action-plan/ Wed, 24 Dec 2025 10:00:08 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/new-year-action-plan/ Get the New Year off to the best possible start in your garden, with our jobs checklist. There may not be much happening in the garden in January, but there's still plenty that you can be getting on with - burning off some of those Christmas calories at the same time.

Get ahead with key winter gardening jobs now, and you'll be all set for the planting and sowing frenzy that's just around the corner in spring.

Here are 10 jobs that you can be getting on with in January.

• The craziest gardening records ever
• Top trends for gardening in 2026
• New Year, new you: our top gardening resolutions for 2026

Clean up your pots

Brush off dirt with a hard-bristled brush. Check for damage and cracks, discarding any unusable pots, which can then be used as crocks.

Mulch for spring bulbs

Open up the compost heap and sprinkle a thin layer of garden compost as mulch. This will not only enrich the soil, but add a dark backdrop to set off the flowers of spring bulbs.

Collect snails

Tidy up around rocks, stacks of pots and piles of wood where snails hibernate and dispose of them. You may also see cabbage white chrysalises on fleece stored in the shed.

Clean the greenhouse

Take the time to get everything shipshape, cleaning greenhouse glazing inside and out to get rid of dirt that has built up over the past year.

Make willow plant supports

They're easy to make, and make attractive features too. Find out how to make willow supports.

Get your pruning done

Branches will hang lower when they're full of leaves, so it's worth cutting back now while still bare. It's a good time to prune apples and pears, but wait until summer and the sap has risen to prune stone fruits.

What to prune in winter

Warm the soil for sowing

Cover the ground with black plastic to trap the heat of the sun or put up tunnel cloches before extra-early outdoor sowings of rocket and spring salad mixes next month.

Tidy up roses

Train climbing varieties to wires with twine, taking out old and crossing wood and tie in vigorous shoots for this year's flowers.

Order in supplies

Source bark chippings for paths from local councils and tree surgeons now, as there is plenty about.

Tidy up your shed and tools

If you want an excuse to escape to the shed or garage on really cold days, have a good tidy up and sort out those tools. Make more space for yourself by putting up hooks, so you can hang your spades and forks out of the way.

Find out how to protect your plants in winter weather, in this video guide with David Hurrion:

View Green Video on the source website]]> 10 plants for sandy soil https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/10-plants-for-sandy-soil/ Tue, 25 Nov 2025 15:30:29 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/10-plants-for-sandy-soil/ We recommend plants that will positively thrive in a dry, sandy soil. If your soil feels gritty to the touch, you most likely have sandy soil. An easy way to tell is by rolling a ball of soil in your hands – sandy soil will crumble away easily.

Not sure what soil type you have? Find out how to test your soil type and learn more about soil on World Soil Day.

Sandy soil is free draining, easy to work and warms up quickly in spring. It also dries out rapidly and leaches nutrients when it rains, so it is vital to add plenty of added organic matter, such as well rotted manure or garden compost, to retain moisture and feed the plants.

Sandy soils are often acidic, so it's worth testing yours – find out how to test your soil pH.

As ever, it is best to choose the plants that suit your garden's conditions. Here are 10 plants that thrive in sandy soil.

Hardy geraniums

Hardy geraniums (cranesbills) are versatile plants that look good in any type of planting scheme and do well in sun or shade. They flower for months on end in summer, in shades of pink, white, purple and blue, offering a long season of pollen and nectar for a number of pollinators, particularly bees.

Tulips

All bulbs, including tulips, do well in sandy soils – they thrive in well-drained soil, as they are less inclined to rot. There are hundreds of tulips, in a wide range of colours, to choose from – browse our plant database for tulips to grow and read our tulip Grow Guide for practical growing advice.

Lavender

Lavender thrives in well drained, poor soil so is perfect for a sandy soil. With its evergreen leaves and compact shape, it's the perfect plant for a sunny spot. Most varieties have purple flowers, but some cultivars come in dark blue, white or pink. They are extremely attractive to bees, butterflies and hoverflies.

Verbena bonariensis

Verbena bonariensis has tall stems topped with flattened heads of lavender-purple flowers for many months in summer. It's perfect for bringing height to an ornamental border and also works well in prairie-style planting schemes. It's a superb butterfly plant, rivalling even buddleja. Grow in a sunny spot.

Cistus

Cistus (rock rose) are attractive, bushy, evergreen shrubs with white or pink flowers. They flower in late spring, bridging the gap between spring and summer. They're idea for growing in rock gardens and containers, and work well with other Mediterranean shrubs such as rosemary and lavender.

Helianthemum

Helianthemum, also known as rock roses, are reliable, easy-going shrubby plants that can be guaranteed to put on a good show throughout early and mid summer. They are perfect for growing at the front of a mixed sunny border or rock garden. Grow in full sun. Plants may need protection during harsh winters.

Salvias

Salvias (perennial sages) look wonderful in ornamental borders, producing summer-long displays of spiky, nectar-rich flowers. They come in a huge range of colours. For best results grow in a sunny, sheltered spot and deadhead spent blooms regularly to encourage flowers into mid-autumn.

Phormium

With their elegant, long and evergreen leaves, phormiums (New Zealand flax) add an architectural touch to any garden. They make a good focal point in gravel gardens and large borders, and are well suited to seaside gardens because of their tolerance of salty winds. Grow in a sunny spot.

Achilleas

Achilleas (yarrow) have feathery foliage and striking flat, circular heads of flowers throughout the summer. They look good in all kinds of planting schemes, including cottage gardens and prairie schemes. They attract a wide range of pollinators, too. Grow in a sunny spot.

Allium

Alliums have pompon-shaped flowers on tall stems in spring and early summer and are a fantastic choice for a sunny border. They come mostly in shades of purple and look fabulous planted in drifts. Plant the bulbs in autumn – they should come back year after year.

Tips for improving sandy soil

• Adding organic matter helps to retain moisture and will release nutrients.
• Use garden compost, council green waste, manure or spent mushroom compost.
• Watch our video guide to the types of organic matter.
• Try to add around two bucketfuls per square metre to borders.
• Add four bucketfuls per square metre to areas where you intend to grow fruit or veg.
• You can dig the organic matter into the soil or spread it on the surface as a mulch.
• If you don't have enough organic matter, concentrate on one area at a time.
• Water newly planted plants in well, and continue while they establish.
• Mulch around newly planted plants to keep moisture in the soil.
• Spring is the best time to dig sandy soil.

More plants for sandy soil

• Acanthus (bear's breeches). Try Acanthus mollis, Acanthus mollis 'Whitewater' or Acanthus spinosus

• Alcea (hollyhock)

• Alstroemeria

• Buddleja (butterfly bush)

• Centaurea (knapweed)

• Crocosmia (montbretia)

• Dianthus (pinks)

• Echinops (globe thistle - pictured)

• Erigeron (Mexican daisy)

• Eryngium (wallflower)

• Euphorbia

• Gaura

• Daylilies (Hemerocallis)

• Hylotelephium (sedum)

• Kniphofia (red hot poker)

• Lupinus (lupin)

• Nepeta (catmint)

• Papaver (poppy)

• Penstemon

• Perovskia

• Santolina

• Stachys (lamb's ears)

• Vinca

• Yucca

• Mediterranean herbs

• Ornamental grasses

]]> How to grow grape hyacinth (Muscari) https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-muscari/ Thu, 07 Aug 2025 13:09:47 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-muscari/ All you need to know about growing muscari, or grape hyacinths, in this detailed Grow Guide. Grape hyacinths (Muscari) are small spring bulbs with bright blue flowers that look like a cross between a bunch of grapes and miniature hyacinths. They look good at the front of a border, naturalised in grass or in shady places such as at the edge of a woodland or under deciduous shrubs. Grape hyacinths are perennial plants that come back every year and have a tendency to self-seed, so you might find them invasive – if you'd rather keep them contained, plant them in containers.

Grape hyacinths attract a wide range of pollinators, including bees, providing them with an early source of pollen and nectar after hibernation.

Where to grow grape hyacinths

For best results grow grape hyacinths in moist but well-drained soil, in sun or shade. They work well when naturalised in a lawn but also in container displays, such as a window box.

When to plant grape hyacinths

Plant grape hyacinth bulbs in autumn, as you would any spring-flowering bulb, like daffodils or alliums. If buying pots of flowering grape hyacinths in spring, you can plant these straight away.

How to plant grape hyacinths

Plant grape hyacinth bulbs in small clusters. Dig a small trench 10cm deep and toss in a handful of the tiny bulbs. The same principles apply when planting in a pot, but you can get away with planting the bulbs closer together as the display won't be permanent.

How to care for grape hyacinths

Grape hyacinths don’t need VIP treatment and will spread quite happily once established. If you want to prevent seeds from developing, cut back flowers as soon as they have gone over. There's no need to water or feed the bulbs.

Lift and divide established clumps to help them spread around the garden or control their spread – this can also rejuvenate old bulbs and increase flowering potential.

How to propagate grape hyacinths

Propagate grape hyacinths by division when plants are dormant in summer. Dig up a congested clump and split apart into smaller clusters and replant. You can also save seed and sow this in spring, but it's much quicker and effective to propagate by division.

Pests and diseases

Grape hyacinths are not affected by any pest and diseases.

Advice on buying grape hyacinths

• You can buy pots of flowering grape hyacinths in spring but it's cheaper to buy dry bulbs in autumn
• Grape hyacinths are widely available at garden centres but you'll find a greater choice online

Where to buy grape hyacinths

• Thompson & Morgan
• Suttons
• Van Meuwen

Grape hyacinth varieties to grow

Muscari azureum – a Turkish variety with typical flowers in a soft sky blue. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it its prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM). Height x Spread: 5cm x 10cm

• Buy Muscari azureum from Crocus

Muscari pallens – this rarely found variety has soft, translucent pale blue and white flowers. H x S: 5cm x 10cm

• Buy Muscari pallens from Rare Plants

Muscari armeniacum – a vigorous species variety, growing to 20cm in height, with grass-like leaves and stems bearing spikes of white-tipped, deep violet-blue, egg-shaped flowers in spring. H x S: 20cm x 8cm

• Buy Muscari armeniacum from Crocus

Muscari armeniacum 'Blue Spike' – has larger, double-flowered heads and looks good naturalised in grass with other spring bulbs or in containers. H x S: 20cm x 8cm

• Buy Muscari armeniacum 'Blue Spike' from Crocus

Frequently asked questions

What do you do with grape hyacinths after they flower?

There's no need to do anything with grape hyacinths after they flower. They are spring bulbs so will die down naturally and then regrow the following spring. If you want to stop seeds from developing, remove the flowers as soon as they go over.

How toxic is grape hyacinth?

Grape hyacinth is not toxic to animals, pets or wildlife.

]]> 25 of the best spring flowers https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/top-spring-flowers/ Fri, 14 Mar 2025 09:30:08 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/top-spring-flowers/ Looking for beautiful spring flowers to grow in your garden? We've picked 25 of our favourites. Nothing marks the end of winter like a cheery spring flower. From the first snowdrops and daffodils to classic spring flowers like primroses and hellebores, gardeners use these blooms as a 'spring marker' to count down the days until temperatures increase again and we can spend more time in our gardens.

Spring flowers are important for pollinators, too. Many pollinators, including bumblebees and some butterflies hibernate over winter, and they rely on spring flowers to provide them with nectar and pollen when they emerge from hibernation. Nectar from spring flowers provides pollinators with the energy to fly and find a mate or nest site, while pollen from spring flowers helps bumblebees start laying eggs for the next generation.

Choosing spring flowers

When choosing spring flowers it's important to think about the site you intend to grow them in. Most do best in sun or dappled shade – indeed they will flower sooner if grown in a sunny spot, as the soil they're growing in will be warmed by the sun. Consider also whether you're growing spring flowers in a pot or the ground, whether you want a temporary or permanent display, and if you're planting bulbs, which are usually planted in autumn.

Consider colour combinations, too. If planting spring bulbs, think about the flower colours – will they complement each other or clash? Will they flower at the same time or one after the other? In this video, Frances Tophill shares her favourite spring flowers, including beautiful blooms to grow in pots or in the ground. These plants will provide food for pollinating insects and trees with spectacular spring flowers.

Primrose, Primula vulgaris

This beautiful British native primrose is one of our most well-loved spring flowers, with its pale yellow blooms and fresh green, crinkled leaves. Over the years, primroses will grow into clumps that can be divided and replanted around the garden, for a larger display. Primroses will also self-seed in the right conditions, lending a natural look to your garden borders. Cultivated forms, known as 'polyanthus' are also available, and flower in various colours including bright purple, red and pink.

Best grown in moist soil in partial shade, plant primroses among forget-me-nots, snowdrops and other spring flowers.

Flowers: March to May

Height x Spread: 20cm x 35cm

• Buy Primroses from Suttons, Crocus, and Thompson and Morgan

Snowdrops, Galanthus spp.

Snowdrops are some of the earliest spring flowers to bloom, sometimes flowering as soon as January. Choose from the species Galanthus nivalis to larger cultivars with different flower shapes, such as Galanthus 'S. Arnott' and Galanthus elwesii 'Abington Green'.  Snowdrops gradually clump up over the years, making them easy to dig up, divide and replant for a bigger display.

Plant snowdrops 'in the green', after they have flowered in March and April, for the best results.

Flowers: January to March

H x S: 12cm x 5cm

• Buy snowdrops from Suttons, Crocus, and Thompson and Morgan

Crocus, Crocus tommasinianus

Crocuses are some of the cheeriest spring flowers, providing masses of pollen for early queen bumblebees. Most crocus flowers are purple, but you can buy yellow and white varieties, too. They grow from bulb-like corms, best planted in autumn, and they grow best in full sun in moist but well-drained soil. Plant crocuses in pots on their own, in gaps at the front of the border or naturalised in your lawn.

Flowers: February to April

H x S: 15cm x 5cm

• Buy crocuses from Crocus

Daffodils, Narcissus spp.

Would spring even be spring without daffodils? These cheery yellow flowers bloom in even the harshest conditions, offering a splash of colour when there's little else in flower in the garden. There's a huge range of daffodils, or Narcissi, to grow, including white and salmon-pink flowered varieties, tall types and dwarf 'Tête-à-tête' daffodils, and early- and late-flowering species. If you really love daffodils you can plant a range of early- and late-flowering types so you can have daffodils flowering in your garden from February to May.

Plant in moist but well-drained soil in full sun, in the ground or in pots.

Flowers: February to May

H x S: 30cm x 5cm

• Buy daffodils from Crocus and Gardening Express

Hyacinth, Hyacinthus

Hyacinths are lovely spring flowers that have fallen out of favour in recent years due to their slightly old-fashioned look. However they work well in pot displays and are extremely fragrant, offering a blast of spring colour and scent early in the year. Choose from purple, pink and white varieties. Plant hyacinths in moist but well-drained soil in full sun.

Flowers: March to April

H x S: 25cm x 10cm

• Buy hyacinths from Crocus, Gardening Express, and Waitrose Florist

Tulips, Tulipa spp.

Tulips are some of the most popular spring flowers, coming in a range of colours, shapes and sizes. Choose brightly coloured tulips for a cheerful display or pair maroon and white tulips for a more dramatic look. You can also buy frilled and peony-flowered varieties. Although tulips aren't popular with pollinators, they still make a worthwhile addition to spring pot and border displays in spring. Plant tulips in moist but well-drained soil in full sun.

Flowers: April to May

H x S: 45cm x 20cm

• Buy tulips from Crocus and Hayloft

Forget-me-nots, Myosotis sylvatica

Forget-me-nots are cheery, low-growing blue spring flowers. They're perfect for growing at the front of a border or combined with tulips and daffodils for a bright spring display. Forget-me-nots self-seed readily, but they do start to look tatty after flowering, and it's best to pull them out and plant something in their place instead.

Grow forget-me-nots in moist but well-drained soil in partial shade.

Flowers: April to June

H x S: 20cm x 15cm

• Buy forget-me-nots from Suttons, Crocus, and Thompson & Morgan

Wallflowers, Erysimum cheiri

Wallflowers are popular in spring bedding displays. Most are biennials, so you need to sow them in late spring, ready for flowering the following spring. You can also buy bare-root wallflowers for autumn planting. Wallflowers come in dark red and yellow. Grow them in moist but well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade.

Flowers: March to April

H x S: 50cm x 50cm

• Buy wallflowers from Suttons, Crocus, and Thompson and Morgan

Lungwort, Pulmonaria

Lungwort is a gorgeous perennial herbaceous plant that tolerates more shade than other spring flowers. It's named after the markings on its leaves, which were thought to resemble diseased lungs. The flowers can be purple or pink. Lungwort is a firm favourite with the hairy-footed flower bee, one of the first bees to emerge from hibernation in spring. Plant lungwort with primroses and forget-me-nots for a natural spring look.

Flowers: March to April

H x S: 35cm x 45cm

• Buy lungwort from Crocus and Thompson and Morgan

Snake’s head fritillary, Fritillaria meleagris

Snake's head fritillary is a gorgeous spring-flowering bulb, in the lily family. It bears chequerboard-patterned flowers in shades of mauve and pink, but you can also get white varieties. Grow snake's head fritillaries in moist soil in partial shade.

Flowers: March to April

H x S: 35cm x 45cm

• Buy snake's head fritillary from Secret Gardening Club and Hayloft

Hellebores, Helleborus spp.

Hellebores flower from late winter to spring in a range of flower colours, including white to pink and dark purples. There's a range of hellebores to try, including the earliest flowering Christmas rose, Helleborus niger, to the later-flowering hellebore hybrids. Stinking hellebore, Helleborus foetidus, is taller and more suitable for growing in larger beds and planting schemes.

Grow hellebores in moist soils in partial shade.

Flowers: January to April

H x S: 45cm x 45cm

• Buy hellebores from Suttons, Crocus, and Thompson and Morgan

Reticulate iris, Iris reticulata

Reticulate irises are early spring flowers with delicate, fragrant purple flowers with yellow markings. Growing to just 15cm in height, they're perfect for pots and alpine displays on a table or windowsill. Plant them in pots for the best results.

Flowers: January to April

H x S: 15cm x 15cm

• Buy reticulate irises from Hayloft

Heather, Erica spp.

Winter- and spring-flowering heathers, Erica carnea and Erica x darlyensis provide flowers when there's little else in bloom. A magnet for bumblebees, they provide an essential source of pollen and nectar on early spring days. Unlike summer-flowering heather, these hardy heathers tolerate neutral to alkaline soil. Plant them in pots with other spring flower displays, or at the front of a sunny border.

Flowers: December to April

H x S: 50cm x 100cm

• Buy winter- and spring-flowering heathers from Crocus and Hayloft

Winter aconite, Eranthus hyemalis

Winter aconites are early spring flowers with bright yellow blooms. They're perfect for naturalising in lawns and work well with snowdrops. Choose a sunny to partially shaded spot with moist but well-drained soil. As with snowdrops, plant them 'in the green' after flowering.

Flowers: January to February

H x S: 13cm x 10cm

• Buy winter aconite from Suttons and Thompson and Morgan

Pasque flower, Pulsatilla

The pasque flower, Pulsatilla vulgaris, is a beautiful late-spring flower, traditionally a symbol of Easter. It bears silky purple, star-shaped flowers, in contrast with ferny foliage. Grow pasque flower in well-drained soil in full sun.

Flowers: April to May

H x S: 20cm x 20cm

• Buy pasque flowers from Crocus, Thompson and Morgan, and Hayloft

Grape hyacinth, Muscari

Grape hyacinths, Muscari, are small, spring-flowering bulbs with bright blue spring flowers. They're not related, despite sharing part of their common name, to regular hyacinths. Plant them at the front of a border, in grass or in pots. Be careful – they spread easily.

Flowers: April to May

H x S: 20cm x 10cm

• Buy grape hyacinths from Hayloft

Bearded iris, Iris germanica

The bearded iris is a popular, tall-growing iris, bearing flamboyant blooms over sword-like foliage from May to June. Each flower comprises large outer and inner petals, known as ruffs and falls. The hairs growing along the centre of the falls give the bearded iris its name.

Grow bearded iris in a hot, sunny bed, in moist but well-drained soil. Make sure the rhizome sits above soil level and gets sun for most of the day – this will ensure it flowers reliably.

Flowers: May to June

H x S: 90cm x 10cm

• Buy bearded irises from Suttons, Crocus, and Thompson and Morgan

Foxgloves, Digitalis

Flowering from late spring into summer, foxgloves bridge the gap between spring- and summer-flowering perennials. Foxgloves traditionally bear pink-purple spring flowers with beautiful spotted insides, but you can also get white and orange-flowering varieties. Most foxgloves are biennial, meaning they flower and set seed in their second year, but perennial foxgloves are increasingly available.

Grow foxgloves in moist but well-drained soil in sun to shade. Biennial types self-seed readily.

Flowers: May to June

H x S: 1.8m x 90cm

• Buy foxgloves from Suttons, Crocus, Thompson and Morgan, and  The Secret Gardening Club

Alliums, Allium spp.

Alliums are bulbous perennials, typically with globe-shaped purple spring flowers. Flowering from late spring into summer, they're loved by bees. They make excellent cut flowers, both in fresh and dried flower arrangements.

Grow alliums in moist but well-drained soil in full sun, ideally among other foliage plants, which hide their unsightly strappy foliage.

Flowers: May to June

H x S: 20cm x 15cm

• Buy alliums from Suttons, Crocus, and Thompson and Morgan

Lily of the valley, Convallaria majalis

Lily of the valley is a low-growing, spreading perennial plant with arching stems of bell-shaped, white flowers. It's perfect for shady borders and woodland settings and works well as a cut flower.

Grow lily of the valley in moist soil in partial shade.

Flowers: April to May

H x S: 25cm x 30cm

• Buy lilies of the valley from  Suttons, Crocus, and Thompson and Morgan

Red campion, Silene dioica

Red campion is a beautiful meadow flower that thrives in sunshine and partial shade. It makes an excellent meadow plant and also works well in a shady woodland border.

Grow red campion in moist soil in sun to partial shade.

Flowers: April to September

H x S: 1m x 50cm

• Buy red campion from Crocus and Naturescape

Snowflake, Leucojum aestivum

Unlike snowdrops, which are low-growing and flower from late winter, snowflakes (often called summer snowflakes despite flowering from March) are tall and less delicate in habit. This bulbous perennial thrives in shade and tends to spread if left unchecked, however it can be a useful addition to a shady border where little else blooms as early. Snowflakes work well when planted with other shade-tolerant plants, like red campion.

Grow snowflakes in moist but well-drained soil in partial shade.

Flowers: March to May

H x S: 50cm x 10cm

• Buy snowflakes from Crocus and Suttons

Cowslip, Primula veris

Cowslips are beautiful native wildflowers closely related to primroses. They thrive in moist soil, so they do well at the pond edge, and many pollinators visit them.

Grow cowslips in moist but well-drained soil in sun to partial shade.

Flowers: March to May

H x S: 25cm x 25cm

• Buy snowflakes from Crocus and Suttons

English bluebell, Hyacinthoides non-scripta

English bluebells are known for carpeting the woodland floor in mid-spring, but can be grown easily in gardens. Bear in mind that they could hybridise with Spanish bluebell (Hyacinthoides hispanica), and already hybridised bluebells (Hyacinthoides x massartiana). Make sure you buy your bluebells from a reputable supplier or grow from seed so you can be sure the plants haven't been dug from the wild. If you have other bluebells growing in your garden, remove them to prevent hybridisation.

Grow English bluebells in moist but well-drained soil in sun to partial shade.

Flowers: April to May

H x S: 40cm x 8cm

• Buy English bluebells from Naturescape

Elephant's ears, Bergenia

Known as elephant's ears, bergenia flowers from mid-spring and thrives in partial shade, so is a great choice for adding a burst of colour to a shady border early in the season.

Grow bergenia in moist but well-drained soil.

Flowers: April to May

H x S: 60cm x 75cm

• Buy bergenia from Crocus and Suttons

Alan Titchmarsh's favourite spring flowers

In this short podcast, Alan Titchmarsh shares his favourite spring flowers:

View oEmbed on the source website]]> How to grow bluebells https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-bluebells/ Mon, 22 Apr 2024 15:16:21 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-bluebells/ Find out how to grow our native English bluebell and how to tell it apart from the introduced Spanish bluebell. Flowering en masse, the English bluebell, Hyacinthoides non-scripta, makes a spectacular display in its natural woodland setting, carpeting the floor before the tree leaves have fully unfurled. It's thought that 25-49 per cent of the world's bluebell population is found in the British Isles, making it a nationally important plant. A small bulbous perennial, the English bluebell flowers in April and May, and spreads easily in the right conditions. Bluebells will grow happily in a shady garden, and they make good spring ground cover.

In recent years, the English bluebell has hybridised with the larger Spanish bluebell, Hyacinthoides hispanica, which was introduced to Britain as a garden plant in the 17th century. This has posed problems for the native bluebell, which could eventually die out due to hybridisation. The Spanish bluebell is larger and has a much more vigorous growth habit than the native variety. Hybrids (which are fertile and therefore able to reproduce themselves) are the most commonly grown bluebell in British gardens. They look similar to the native bluebell but don't have the beautiful 'drooping' quality that English bluebells have. Also, their petals are lighter in colour (sometimes pink) and their leaves are thicker. Hybrids are also able to hybridise with the native bluebell.

While Spanish and hybrid bluebells are not on the Government's list of invasive plants for England and Wales, the charity Plantlife recommends that you don't grow them if you live near a native bluebell colony, for example, a woodland. This prevents any accidental hybridisation and therefore protects the native British bluebell. Hyacinthoides hispanica is considered an invasive non-native plant in Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, where it is an offense to plant or cause it to grow in the wild. In Scotland, it is an offense to plant any non-native plant in the wild.

How to grow bluebells

Grow bluebells in moist but free-draining soil in partial shade. They're particularly suited to growing beneath deciduous trees, which provide dappled shade in spring and deeper shade in summer. You'll get the best results from planting bluebells in the green, but it's also possible to grow bluebells from seed. if they're growing in grass, avoid mowing until after the leaves have fully died down. Mulch in autumn with a thick layer of leaf mould to mimic the habitat found on the woodland floor.

Find out more about growing bluebells, below.

Where to grow bluebells

Bluebells thrive in moist, free-draining soil, ideally with plenty of leaf litter. Partial shade is best but they will also tolerate some sun.

How to plant bluebells

The easiest and most reliable method is to plant bluebells 'in the green' in late spring, after they have finished flowering. Plant in naturalistic drifts, 10cm deep and approximately 10cm apart. It’s possible to grow bluebells from seed.

Bluebells look wonderful growing in drifts in woodland. Find out how to create this effect in your own garden – Monty Don explains what conditions bluebells need, how deeply to plant the bulbs, and how to create a natural-looking colony in grass:

View Green Video on the source website

How to care for bluebells

Where bulbs are planted in grass, don’t cut the grass until after the leaves have died back.

How to propagate bluebells

You can plant dry bluebell bulbs in autumn, but you're more likely to have success by planting the bulbs 'in the green', in late spring. Divide and replant the clumps after flowering and before the leaves die back. Bear in mind that it's illegal to dig up clumps of bluebells in the wild, and this method applies to bluebells growing in gardens only.

You can also save seed from bluebells and sow them immediately in pots of compost. Bluebell seeds can take several months to germinate and need a period of cold weather to get them going. However, this method means you could end up with hybrids. It's much better to buy bluebell seed from a reputable supplier for the best results.

Growing bluebells: problem solving

Bluebells are generally pest- and disease-free. The main problem is hybridisation. Also, Spanish and hybrid bluebells are very difficult to remove once they have established. If you want to remove bluebells you will likely have to make several attempts.

Find out how to identify Spanish bluebells and how to get rid of them, in our Quick Tips video with David Hurrion:

View Green Video on the source website

Bluebell varieties

• Hyacinthoides non-scripta – our native bluebell has dark-blue, nodding flowers, with curled-back petals and a delicate fragrance. The pollen is white, and the foliage is narrow and recurved.
• Hyacinthoides hispanica – the Spanish bluebell is larger than the native English bluebell. The flowers are more open, have blue pollen and no scent.
• Hyacinthoides x massartiana – this is the hybrid mix of British and Spanish bluebells. It is similar to the native English bluebell, but has characteristics of both parent varieties.

Frequently asked questions

What do I do when my bluebell flowers go over?

Avoid mowing the grass while bluebell foliage is dying down to ensure good flowers next year. Leave the foliage until it has died back, but remove faded flower spikes if you don’t want bluebells to spread. All parts of bluebell plants are toxic and the sap can irritate skin, so it is best to wear gloves when handling.

What is the most effective way of getting rid of Spanish bluebells?

Spanish bluebells are difficult to get rid of once established. Dig up and dispose of the deep-rooted bulbs in council garden waste collections, not on the compost heap. To get them all out, you may need to dig up the bulbs for several years in a row. Don’t use weedkiller on bluebells as it isn’t effective, and can damage other plants and animals.

]]> The best shade-loving plants https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/the-best-shade-loving-plants/ Thu, 15 Feb 2024 09:00:35 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/the-best-shade-loving-plants/ Shady garden? We recommend 20 of the best shade-loving plants for you to grow. This article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.

Many gardens have shady areas where sun-loving plants won't thrive. The good news is that there are plenty of plants that can tolerate or even do better in a shaded position.

When choosing plants for shade, the most important thing is to understand the type of shade you have – there are various kinds:

• Light shade means slight shade for all or most of the day
• Partial shade means plants are in the sun for some of the day
• Dappled shade is blotchy shade created when the sun filters through overhead foliage

You also need to consider the soil in your shady spot, which would be damp or dry. The shade of trees, for example, is likely to be dry due to the roots of the tree taking up much of the water in the soil and the canopy of leaves directing rainfall away from the immediate area. Likewise, the area close to a building or high wall can be very dry, as rainfall (which rarely falls straight down) is blocked. All of these factors will determine which plants you can grow, as plants for dry shade differ significantly from plants for damp shade.

When choosing plants for shade, remember that too many dark greens can make a shady area look gloomy. Instead, use them for background structure and texture, then bring the area alive by using pale, pastel colours. White, cream, pale yellow, lilac, light mauve and pale pink show up best. Add variegated plants for splashes of cream, yellow and white.

We recommend 20 of the best plants for shade below.

Stinking iris

Stinking iris thrives in full shade, particularly beneath trees. It has architectural evergreen foliage and dull, purple-green flowers, but it comes into its own in autumn when its large seedpods split open to reveal rows of orange-red seeds that remain well into winter. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

Height x Spread: 75cm x 45cm

• Buy stinking iris at Jackson Nurseries, Burncoose Nurseries and De Jager

(Please note, some plants may not always be in stock at smaller nurseries, and at certain times of the year.)

Wood spurge

There are many varieties of spurge, but Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae is one of the loveliest. From late spring it bears lime-green flowers above dark green leaves. Perfect for dry shade, it works well beneath trees and woodland borders. Left unchecked it can become invasive. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

H x S: 70cm x 1m

• Buy wood spurge at Crocus, Beth Chatto Nursery and Jackson Nurseries

Snowdrop

The snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, flowers at the end of winter, often pushing up through frozen ground and blooming for weeks until the daffodils appear, and even beyond. It thrives in full shade on heavy, moist soils. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

H x S: 15cm x 8cm

• Buy snowdrops at Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, Suttons, and J Parker's

Winter aconite

Aconites grow into clumps, eventually bearing masses of bright yellow flowers in late January and February. They thrive in damp shade so are perfect for growing in a damp, shady border or woodland garden. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

H x S: 10cm x 5cm

• Buy winter aconites at Crocus, Suttons, J Parker's and Thompson & Morgan

Bellflower

There are many varieties of bellflower, most of which thrive in some shade. Campanula lactiflora (pictured) bears pretty clusters of purple-blue bell-shaped flowers, above heart-shaped green leaves, from summer to autumn. It’s perfect for growing toward the back of a border and works well in traditional or cottage garden planting schemes. Like all bellflowers, its blooms are a magnet for bees and other pollinators.

H x S: 80cm x 60cm

• Buy bellflower at Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Suttons

Foxglove

Our native foxglove, Digitalis purpurea, is a woodland plant that thrives in dappled or partial shade. There are many cultivars and varieties that flower in different colours and have different shaped blooms. Most thrive in partial shade but some require more sun.

H x S: 1.5m x 45cm

• Buy foxglove at Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Suttons

Granny's bonnet

Aquilegias are a charming, old-fashioned cottage garden plant with bonnet-shaped flowers, perfect for growing in partial shade. Aquilegia flabellata (pictured) is a dwarf columbine, bearing blue nodding flowers over a compact mound of waxy grey-green foliage. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

H x S: 30cm x 15cm

• Buy granny's bonnet at Crocus, Suttons, J Parker's and Thompson & Morgan

Bleeding heart

Bleeding heart, also known as Lamprocapnos spectabilis, bears pink-red, heart-shaped flowers with white tips, which hang from arching flower stems in late spring to early summer. It grows well in light, damp shade and looks good growing in clumps amongst shrubs. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

H x S: 60cm x 45cm

• Buy bleeding heart at Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Suttons

Lungwort

Lungwort, (botanical name: pulmonaria) is named after its mottled leaves, which resemble lungs. Different varieties produce different leaf markings, which look their best in mid-spring when putting on fresh growth after flowering. They make excellent groundcover plants, especially for shady borders. Funnel-shaped flowers are borne in shades of blue, violet, pink, purple, red and white.

H x S: 50cm x 50cm

• Buy lungwort at Thompson & Morgan, Naturescape, J Parker's and Crocus

Siberian bugloss

Brunnera macrophylla is the perfect plant for shady gardens. With mid-green, heart-shaped foliage and forget-me-not-like blooms forming on tall stems, it’s great for edging paths and mixing with other shade-tolerant plants, particularly in woodland borders.

H x S: 45cm x 45cm

• Buy Siberian bugloss at Thompson & Morgan, Burncoose Nurseries, J Parker's and Crocus

Lords-and-ladies

A native woodland perennial, lords-and-ladies, Arum maculatum, is perfect for growing beneath trees and shrubs. It bears unusual spring flowers, followed by dense clusters of dark red berries.

H x S: 45cm x 45cm

• Buy lords and ladies from Naturescape, Ballyrobert Gardens and Shipton Bulbs

Hardy geraniums

There are many types of hardy geranium (also known as cranesbill geraniums), many of which thrive in shade. Dusky cranesbill, Geranium phaeum (pictured) is particularly shade tolerant, and quickly grows to a dense, weed-suppressing matt of green, deeply lobed leaves with distinctive purple blotches around the centre, from which small, nodding, purple flowers with yellow centres appear on tall stems, from late spring to early summer.

H x S: 90cm x 50cm

• Buy cranesbills from Thompson & Morgan, Suttons, J Parker's and Crocus

Hellebores

A winter-flowering staple in the cottage garden, hellebores thrive in dry shade, bearing large clusters of saucer-shaped flowers with white, pink, green, mauve or smoky purple flowers. Helleborus ‘Garden Red’ (pictured) bears single red flowers.

H x S: 30cm x 30cm

• Buy hellebores from Thompson & Morgan, Suttons, J Parker's and Crocus

Masterwort

Astrantias are superb perennials for growing in the shade beneath trees or in a moist border. They prefer moist soils but will tolerate drier conditions as long as the plants are mulched in autumn to reduce summer moisture loss. Astrantia major ‘Gill Richardson’ (pictured) is a gorgeous variety with large red flowers.

H x S: 90cm x 25cm

• Buy astrantias at Crocus, Thompson & Morgan and Suttons

Hardy cyclamen

Hardy cyclamen, Cyclamen coum, bears delicate, silver-lined dark green leaves and dainty blooms in shades of white, pink and red from late winter to early spring. It’s perfect for growing in partial shade, at the base of small shrubs and trees, and naturalising in grass. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

H x S: 10cm x 10cm

• Buy hardy cyclamen at Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, and J Parker's

False goatsbeard

False goatsbeard (botanical name: astilbe) bears showy plumes of dramatic flowers over fern-like foliage. It’s perfect for a slightly shady corner, where its dramatic blooms add height and colour.

H x S: 60cm x 45cm

• Buy false goatsbeard from Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Van Meuwen

Solomon's seal

Solomon’s seal, Polygonatum x hybridum, is an old-fashioned cottage garden plant bearing graceful, arching stems with paired, oval leaves and dangling, green-tipped, bell-shaped flowers from late spring to early summer. It’s perfect for growing in a partially shaded border or woodland planting scheme, and looks lovely paired with corydalis and bleeding heart.

H x S: 1.25m x 30cm

• Buy Soloman's seal at Crocus, Beth Chatto Nursery, J Parker's and Avon Bulbs

Himalayan blue poppy

Himalayan poppy, Meconopsis baileyi, bears spectacular, bowl-shaped blue flowers with bright yellow centres, in late spring to early summer. It makes a dramatic statement when grown en masse and does best when grown in moist, neutral to acid soil in a partially shaded spot. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

H x S: 1.2m x 45cm

• Buy Himalayan poppy at Suttons, Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Hayloft

Coral bells

Heucheras are attractive, mound-forming plants, perfect for growing in light shade. There are many heuchera cultivars to choose from, in a range of unusual foliage colours and forms. Some are tolerant of dry soils while others prefer damper habitats.

H x S: 50cm x 40cm

• Buy heucheras at Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Suttons

What is the easiest plant to grow in shade?

Ivy

In our experience, the easiest plant to grow in shade is English ivy, the ultimate shade-loving climber. It can be used to cover shady walls and trained to climb up or spread out along a low wall. Being evergreen, ivy is perfect for covering pergola poles or creating a leafy backdrop. As an alternative to English ivy, consider Boston ivy. Bear in mind, however, that this can be a very vigorous plant indeed.

H x S: 7m x 7m

• Buy ivy at Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, J Parker's and Suttons

In this short video, Monty Don selects two beautiful flowering perennials to add instant colour to borders in light or dappled shade. Watch and you'll see why he's chosen them: Thalictrum delavayi, with its airy froth of small mauve flowers, and the elegant white-flowered Japanese anemone Anemone x hybrida 'Whirlwind'.

View Green Video on the source website

More advice on gardening in shade:

• Types of garden shade
• 20 plants for dry shade
• 10 best fruit crops for shade
• 10 best vegetables for shade
• Container plants for shade
• Climbers for a shady wall or fence
• 10 unusual perennials for shade

]]> How to grow daffodils https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-daffodils/ Sun, 04 Feb 2024 11:40:16 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-daffodils/ All you need to know about growing narcissus, including planting daffodil bulbs and great daffodil varieties to try. Daffodils (Narcissus) are spring bulbs that brighten our gardens and herald the arrival of longer, brighter days ahead. There are many different varieties, some flowering as early as January and others as late as early May.

Daffodils range in height from about 5cm up to 45cm, and come in a variety of colours and forms apart from the usual yellow trumpets.

In the video above, Monty Don demonstrates how to plant daffodil bulbs in a border.

How to grow daffodils

Plant daffodil bulbs in autumn in moist but well-drained soil in full sun. They work well with a variety of other spring flowers, including wallflowers and primulas, and are perfect for a spring pot display. Deadhead after flowering and let the foliage die down naturally, for the best display the following spring.

More on growing daffodils:

• Double daffodils to grow
• Top 10 daffodils for your garden
• How to cross-pollinate daffodils
• The secret to better daffodil displays, according to an expert

Where to plant daffodils

Daffodils do best in full sun but will tolerate light shade. Plant them in a moist but free-draining soil. Daffodils can be grown in containers, in borders or naturalised in lawns.

Daffodils look fantastic when planted with wallflowers. Here, Monty Don explains how to plant daffodils with wallflowers:

View Green Video on the source website

When to plant daffodil bulbs

The best time to plant daffodil bulbs is autumn, from September to November. This gives the bulbs time to develop roots before temperatures drop, so they can put on new growth and flower as soon as temperatures rise again in spring.

This doesn't mean you can't plant them at other times of year. There are plenty of bargains to be had from November to January, with garden centres trying to sell remaining stock. Buying a discounted bag of daffodil bulbs and planting them in December is completely fine – just make sure the bulbs are firm and not showing signs of mould. You can plant daffodil bulbs as late as January. After planting, the bulbs may take longer to establish and flower, but they should catch up in years to come.

Find out about when to plant daffodils bulbs in pots, in our project for a spring pot display.

How to plant daffodils

Always choose large and firm bulbs, avoiding any soft or visibly rotting ones. Dig over compacted soils and improve with organic matter such as home-made compost or well-rotted manure.

Most daffodil bulbs should be planted about 10cm deep, roughly twice the depth of the bulb itself (follow instructions given for individual varieties). In open ground, plant up to six daffodil bulbs together – any more than this and they will quickly become congested. In pots you can plant as many bulbs together as you like, because the display will be less permanent, and you can replant the bulbs in the ground in one to two years' time.

If planting daffodil bulbs in a container, use a peat-free John Innes No. 2 or 3 mix, and position the container in a sunny spot. Water pots so the soil remains moist but not wet. It's possible to leave daffodil bulbs in a pot for many years, but remove and replace the compost above the bulbs each year.

Watch our No Fuss video guide with Kevin Smith, on how to layer daffodils and other bulbs in a pot:

View Green Video on the source website

When planting daffodil bulbs in grass, the easiest way to create a natural look is to throw a handful of bulbs onto the lawn, and plant them where they land. Use a bulb planter to pull out plugs of soil and then pop the bulbs in the holes, pointy end up. Cover with the soil and turf you've just removed.

In this video clip from Gardeners' World, Monty Don explains how to naturalise bulbs in grass:

View Green Video on the source website

Bulbs can be planted into open soil using a hand trowel or bulb planter. Space bulbs two bulb-widths apart**.** 

How to look after daffodils

Apply a slow-release bulb fertilizer to pots each spring. Deadhead plants after flowering and leave the foliage to die down naturally, so the nutrients in the leaves are returned to the bulb (this improves flowering potential the following year). If growing narcissus in a grassy area then you might not be able to cut the grass until June.

In this short video guide, the experts at Taylors Bulbs share their top tips for growing daffodils, including how to ensure they flower year after year.

View Green Video on the source website

How to propagate daffodils

Established daffodil clumps can be divided in autumn. Lift clumps carefully with a garden fork and peel the bulbs apart. Replant straight away. If you have time and patience, you can grow daffodils from seed. Rather than deadheading after flowering, leave a few seedheads to develop and then sow the seeds when ripe. Bear in mind that it will take a few years before the daffodils flower.

Growing daffodils: problem solving

Daffodils can suffer from 'blindness'. This is where they produce a healthy crop of foliage but fail to flower. There are several reasons why this may happen, including poor soil, overcrowding and shade. You can usually rectify the problem but it can take a couple of years for the bulbs to flower again. Simply dig them up in autumn and replant. If they were growing in shade, plant them in a sunny spot. If the bulbs are overcrowded then divide them and plant them in smaller groups. If the soil is poor then enrich with well-rotted manure or home-made compost. Water the bulbs in well and top-dress with organic matter. You should see daffodil flowers again within a couple of years.

Find out why your daffodils aren't flowering, in this video with Alan Titchmarsh

View Green Video on the source website

Advice on buying daffodil bulbs

• Always choose healthy, firm bulbs with no signs of mould
• Daffodils range in height, so make sure you choose the right one for the spot you have in mind

Where to buy daffodil bulbs

• Thompson & Morgan
• Crocus
• Suttons

Daffodil varieties to grow

• Narcissus ‘Tete-a-Tete’ – a miniature with bright yellow trumpet flowers in April. Height of 15cm
• Narcissus ‘Rip Van Winkle’ – a stunning multi-petalled daffodil flower that appears in April. Height 14cm
• Narcissus ‘February Gold’ – popular thanks to its early bright-yellow flowers in February. Swept back outer petals. Height of 30cm
• Narcissus ‘Fragrant Rose’ – a soft pink daffodil flower with scent in April. Reaches a height of 45cm
• Narcissus bulbocodium ‘Golden Bells’ – March to April flowers that have just a trumpet and no outer petals. Reaches a height of 20cm

Frequently asked questions

Help! What's eating my daffodils? Both the buds and open flowers of daffodils are popular with slugs and snails, which nibble holes in the blooms. Symptoms can be worse in wet weather, when the slugs and snails can travel more easily around the garden. You can either learn to live with the damage – which usually you don't notice from a distance – or go out at night and remove the slugs and snails manually. For daffodils grown in pots, physical barriers can prevent the problem – copper tape placed around the pots can deter slugs and snails from reaching the flowers. How do I remove daffodils from pots after flowering? There's no need to remove daffodils from pots after they've finished flowering, but if you need to use the pot, you can dig up the bulbs and plant them in the garden. However, it's best to do this after the leaves have died down completely. Like all bulbs, daffodils should be left to die down naturally after blooming, so the leaves can carry on photosynthesising and return sugars to the bulb. This will ensure the bulb has enough energy to bloom the following year. If you want to use the pot to grow bedding plants, there's no need to remove the bulbs – simply wait for them to die down, remove the top few centimetres of compost and plant up the pot above the bulbs. They will remain dormant in the pot and then bloom the following year. 

]]> Nine ways to create year-round interest https://www.gardenersworld.com/premium/nine-ways-to-create-year-round-interest-in-2024/ Sun, 03 Dec 2023 15:18:42 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/premium/nine-ways-to-create-year-round-interest-in-2024/ Create a garden that dazzles through the seasons with planting ideas from Nic Wilson The start of a new calendar year is often a time of reflection, on the year that's gone, and a chance to look ahead to the one to come. As gardeners, we're usually dreaming of warmer weather that'll allow us to spend more time outside, and thinking of the changes we'd like to make to our gardens over the coming months.

But a garden needn't just impress in spring and summer. With some careful planning and considered planting, it can be a show-stopper through the seasons. By growing compact varieties, adding evergreens, planting in containers and choosing species with more than one season of interest, you can have a beautiful garden all year round.

Although historic gardens, arboretums and parks often celebrate the seasons on a grand scale, you don’t need a large space to have structure, colour and texture in every month. Visiting them at different times of the year can provide a valuable source of inspiration for your own space. Discover the gardens you can visit using your 2-for-1 Gardens card.

Below, I share my simple planting ideas for each season and some of my favourite gardens to visit throughout the year.

Consider bark and stem colour

Many trees have distinctive and striking ornamental bark. While they contribute to the garden year-round, it's in the winter months - when the garden is looking a bit bare - that they really come into their own.

The iconic Himalayan birch, Betula utilis var. jacquemontii, looks spectacular with the low sun glinting off its ethereal white bark. Choose a named variety to ensure good colour, such as ‘Jermyns’ which matures quickly and grows to around 15m. ‘Silver Shadow’ is a slower-growing variety which reaches about 8m and has silvery-white bark. For smaller spaces, or even container growing, the dwarf birch ‘Magical Globe’ produces a ball of foliage above a bright white trunk.

Ideal for smaller gardens, the Tibetan cherry (Prunus serrula) has rich mahogany bark with a glossy sheen. Multi-stemmed specimens provide even more colour without taking up extra space. In addition to attractive bark, the white flowers in spring and buttery yellow autumn tones make this a superb all-year-round choice. Another excellent tree for winter colour, the snake bark maple (Acer grosseri), has vertically striated bark which is deep purple-red on young stems. Like the Tibetan cherry, this acer is suitable for smaller gardens and has fabulous colour as the foliage turns a fiery orange in autumn.

Not everyone has room in their garden for a specimen tree, but dogwoods have radiant winter colour and can be coppiced in spring so they don’t outgrow their allotted space. Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’ is a classic variety with bright red stems. C. sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’ is also a common sight in winter gardens creating a haze of fiery orange, often contrasted with the green stems of C. sericea ‘Flaviramea’. We love C. alba ‘Kesselringii’, which has deep maroon stems and C. alba ‘Aurea’ with its fresh gold-green foliage.

• Top trees with attractive bark
• Best dogwoods for winter colour

Ensure evergreen interest

Once herbaceous perennials have died back and autumn leaves have fallen, the bare bones of the garden are revealed. At this time of year, evergreens like conifers, hollies and yew provide form and colour. But you don’t need large trees to add winter interest. Compact evergreens create structure and lead the eye through the borders or along a path. Shrubs with small leaves such as Pittosporum tenuifolium, Lonicera nitida and Ilex crenata are ideal to clip into balls, pyramids or cones.

Box (Buxus sempervirens) is traditionally used for topiary, but box blight and box tree moth have made it a less reliable choice in recent years. Instead, we planted clipped balls of Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Tom Thumb’ with its rich chocolate-purple leaves, and an aromatic rosemary hedge in our sunny, well-drained front garden. For alternative foliage colour, try Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’, which is easy to grow, although it needs regular pruning. Also suitable for clipping, Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Golf Ball’ has light green leaves and Ilex crenata ‘Blondie’ has foliage that emerges a fresh yellow-green in spring.

Using evergreens to cover vertical surfaces creates colour and texture during the winter months. Training the silk-tassel bush (Garrya elliptica ‘James Roof’) against a wall or fence provides interest from the dark green foliage and silvery catkins which hang down in glorious profusion through the winter. Itea ilicifolia is another evergreen wall shrub with long pendulous racemes of yellowy-green flowers from mid-summer to early autumn. Although the fragrant blooms are over by the winter, the holly-like glossy leaves add interest. Both shrubs prefer a sheltered spot and are frost hardy, though they may need protection in colder areas.

Evergreen climbers really come into their own in winter. Our Japanese honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica ‘Hall’s Prolific’ retains its foliage, though it can be semi-evergreen, and creates interest winding through the apple espaliers. Winter clematis has the benefit of evergreen foliage as well as flowers. Clematis urophylla ‘Winter Beauty’ is covered in white bell flowers from December to February, and C. cirrhosa var. purpurascens ‘Lansdowne Gem’ produces deep claret blooms during the same period.

• 20 best evergreen climbers
• Alternatives to box

Stimulate your sense of smell

A good planting scheme shouldn't solely be about what you can see. When you walk into your garden, you want to delight all of your senses, and getting the right perfumed plants in the right spots can be transformative to your experience of spending time in your outdoor space.

Fragrance adds an extra dimension to the garden no matter the time of year, but it can be especially impactful in the depths of winter. Perhaps the most alluring of scents at this time is produced by Christmas box (Sarcococca). Its white flowers might be tiny, but they can fill an entire garden with their sweet vanilla fragrance. As an evergreen that thrives in shade, it is ideal to add interest where other plants might struggle. S. hookeriana var. digna ‘Purple Stem’ is a particularly attractive variety with a beautiful scent, young stems flushed purple, and white flowers tinted pink.

Witch hazel has scented blooms in winter that look like thin ribbons of orange peel. We grow Hamamelis x intermedia Magic Fire (‘Feuerzauber’), which has glorious red twists of flowers, and H. x intermedia ‘Jelena’ with her coppery curls. Both hybrids have broad oval leaves which turn orange and red in autumn. Many witch hazels have yellow flowers such as Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Pallida’ and Hamamelis mollis ‘Goldcrest’. Both are particularly highly fragranced.

• 10 witch hazels to grow
• Container plants for winter scent

Gardens for inspiration:

• Anglesey Abbey, Cambridgeshire – Winter Garden and collection of over 350 varieties of snowdrops.
• Levens Hall, Cumbria – impressive collection of topiary in the world’s oldest topiary garden.
• Cambo Gardens, Fife – Plant Heritage National Collection of snowdrops and Winter Garden.

Squeeze in spring bulbs

Bulbs are an important asset in the garden, providing swathes of vibrant colour - not only in spring, when there's little else in bloom, but across the seasons.

There’s nothing quite as exciting as the moment you notice the first spring bulbs emerging. For a succession of colour throughout the season, start with early flowerers such as Scilla mischtschenkoana with its ice-blue star-shaped flowers with a blue stripe. These combine beautifully in containers with blue grape hyacinths like Muscari neglectum or M. ‘Joyce Spirit’. Crocuses are also fantastic in early spring with Crocus ‘Advance’ opening its golden petals in February and March, and C. minimus ‘Spring Beauty’ adding purple tones with its lilac inner petals and white outer petals with deep purple feathering.

Around mid-spring, ancient woodlands are awash with a sea of bluebells (Hyocinthoides non-scripta), snake’s head fritillaries (Fritillaria meleagris) appear in damp meadows and, if you’re lucky, you might see wild daffodils blooming (Narcissus pseudonarcissus). These wild flowers can be bought as bulbs (although bluebells are often planted ‘in the green’ in spring) and all three should naturalise over time. In mid to late spring, tulip displays are at their best. I love the sunset orange tones of ‘Prinses Irene’, alongside ‘National Velvet’ and ‘Paul Scherer’. Perhaps my favourite varieties are ‘Mistress Mystic’ with her smoky pink flowers and the elegant viridiflora tulip ‘Spring Green’.

• Five favourite spring bulbs
• Spring bulb problems solved

Brighten up shady spots

Many spring-flowering perennials grow in deciduous woodland making them perfect for areas of dappled shade. Cowslips (Primula vulgaris) and forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica) create gentle drifts of yellow and blue at the front of mixed borders and among shrubs. The white flowers of wood anemones (Anemone nemorosa) look wonderful in moist, well-drained soil beneath deciduous trees or on a shady bank, and A. nemorosa ‘Royal Blue’ adds impact with its vivid lavender-blue blooms.

As well as beautiful spring flowers, some perennials have attractive foliage which lasts for much of the year. Favourites include Bergenia ‘Mrs Crawford’, a compact cultivar with white flowers and plum-red winter foliage, Pulmonaria ‘Raspberry Splash’ with its delightful raspberry red flowers and silver-spotted foliage, and Brunnera macrophylla ‘Alexanders Great’, which has enormous heart-shaped leaves with silver variegation and small blue flowers in spring.

• Spring pots for shady spots
• Five tips for growing in shade

Gardens for inspiration:

• Clumber Park, Nottinghamshire –apple blossom from the National Collection of apples and tulip displays in the Walled Garden, newly planted orchard and idyllic bluebell woods.
• Bodnant Garden, Conwy – rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias and magnolias (National Collections of rhododendrons and magnolias), and the famous Laburnum Arch.
• Himalayan Garden & Sculpture Park, North Yorkshire – extensive rhododendron, azalea and magnolia collections, and beautiful primula meadow.

Choose drought-tolerant plants

With warmer, drier summers becoming more frequent due to climate change, drought-resistant plants are likely to flower better and for longer than those requiring more water. Many summer-flowering Mediterranean shrubs such as Balearic Island sage (Phlomis italica), lavender, rosemary and rock rose (Cistus) thrive in well-drained soil in full sun. I also love Californian fuchsia (especially Epilobium canum ‘Olbrich Silver’), a semi-evergreen shrub with silvery-grey needle-like leaves and amazing scarlet tubular flowers from late summer to autumn, and the furry grey-green foliage and pink flowers of false dittany (Ballota pseudodictamnus).

In mixed borders alongside drought-resistant shrubs, blue-flowered perennials such as dwarf catmint (Nepeta racemosa), viper’s bugloss (Echium vulgare) and Mediterranean sea holly (Eryngium bourgatii) create a soft contrast with the lemon daisy flowers of Anthemis tinctoria ‘E.C. Buxton’ and creamy-yellow flowerheads of Achillea ‘Credo’. For hot borders, Kniphofia ‘Tawny King’, Achillea millefolium ‘Red Velvet’ or ‘Terracotta’, and Agastache ‘Kudos Mandarin’ create real impact. Grasses such as Stipa tenuissima and Anemanthele lessoniana tolerate sunny, dry conditions and add texture. When planting drought-tolerant species, it is still important to water them until well established.

• Drought-tolerant plants to grow
• How to create a drought-tolerant gravel border

Include late-summer stars

After the early and mid-summer blooms have faded, gardens often slip quietly into autumn. North American members of the daisy family such as sneezeweed (Helenium), sunflowers, black-eyed Susan, and coneflowers inject a new flush of colour into borders from late-summer onwards. Michaelmas daisies flower from August to October and are magnets for pollinating insects, – some of my favourites are Aster amellus ‘Rudolph Goethe’, which has lavender-blue flowers that are great for cutting, Symphyotrichum novae-angliae ‘Andenken an Alma Potschke’, which produces a mass of cherry-red blooms, and Symphyotrichum novi-belgii ‘White Ladies’, which has pure white flowers with yellow centres. Other late-summer to autumn stalwarts include elegant Anemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’ and robust sedum Hylotelephium telephium ‘Karfunkelstein’ with its clusters of red-pink flowers and glorious plum foliage.

• Plants for late-summer colour
• Create a container display for late-summer flowers

Gardens for inspiration:

• Drum Castle, Aberdeenshire – Garden of Historic Roses with over 150 varieties
• Beth Chatto’s Plants and Gardens, Essex – Beth’s garden demonstrates the concept of ‘right plant right place’, and includes her gravel garden which is never watered.
• Trentham Gardens – the Rivers of Grass and Floral Labyrinth Gardens, designed by Piet Oudolf, showcase grasses and herbaceous perennials.

Add compact autumn colour

There are many trees with striking autumn leaves, but if your garden is too small to plant a sweet gum tree such as Liquidamber styraciflua ‘Lane Roberts’ or a crab apple like Malus tschonoskii for their foliage colour, you can choose more compact trees and shrubs. The American redbud, Cercis canadensis ‘Eternal Flame’, can be grown in a container, as can maples like Acer palmatum dissectum ‘Crimson Queen’, which we’ve grown in a large pot for over a decade. The purplish foliage of smoke bush Cotinus ‘Grace’ turns bright red and orange in autumn, and plants can be pruned hard in spring to maintain their compact size. Heavenly bamboo Nandina domestica ‘Fire Power’, as its name suggests, is a small shrub with blazing red autumn colour.

Climbers add interest to walls and fences at this time of year too. The ornamental grape vine Vitis coignetiae has attractive red autumn foliage and the leaves of Vitis vinifera ‘Purpurea’ turn a deep purple colour. Boston ivy has breathtaking autumn colour, but is too vigorous for smaller spaces, and Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is listed as an invasive, non-native species on Schedule 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act in England and Wales, meaning it is an offence to plant or otherwise cause to grow this species in the wild. You should stop them spreading from your garden and avoid purchasing or accepting gifts of these species. However, their close cousin the Chinese virginia creeper (Parthenocissus henryana) is more suitable for small gardens. And edibles can have great autumn foliage too. We grow blueberries in containers and move the pots out onto the patio at the end of summer, so we can watch the foliage turning burnished orange and red from our dining room window.

• Best trees for autumn colour
• Plant combinations for autumn

Don't forget seed heads

By including plants that have attractive seedheads, you get several seasons of interest from a single plant – beautiful flowers in summer, followed by the seedheads, which will add structure to your borders right through autumn and winter, and will look magnificent laced with frost. Many annuals and perennials produce striking seedheads, some of my favourites are wild carrots, honesty and snapdragons.

Globe thistles (Echinops ritro) produce spiky balls that appear to float above the foliage, whereas teasels (Dipsacus fullonum) have conical seed heads that entice goldfinches down to feed. Many frosted flowerheads of umbellifers look like silvery explosions, but my favourite, the wild carrot (Daucus carota), curls back in on itself to produce the most delicate filigree parcels.

You can’t beat honesty seed heads with their papery oval cases protecting the large coffee-coloured seeds within. Clematis seed heads look like puffs of smoke along a wall or fence, and we love the froth created by tufted hair grass seed heads in our borders. For more unusual shapes, Turkish sage (Phlomis russeliana) produces a series of globes on stems that rise out of the seed head beneath, love-in-a-mist has intricate feathered pods and snapdragon seed heads look like miniature shrunken skulls!

• Plants with attractive seedheads
• Carol Klein's favourite autumn plants

Gardens for inspiration:

• Westonbirt National Arboretum, Gloucestershire – with 2,500 tree species including a National Collection of maple species and another of Japanese maple cultivars, the autumn foliage display at Westonbirt is spectacular
• The National Botanic Garden of Wales, Carmarthenshire – explore the autumn tree trail past Japanese maples, Himalayan birch, tulip trees and many more.
• Mount Stewart, County Down – autumn is the best time to walk the woodland trails. Keep an eye out for red squirrels in the trees!

]]> Four steps to success with bulbs https://www.gardenersworld.com/register/four-steps-to-success-with-bulbs/ Mon, 09 Oct 2023 11:17:34 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/register/four-steps-to-success-with-bulbs/ Ensure your bulbs look spectacular next spring! Horticultural expert David Hurrion shares his top tips for planting bulbs in pots, in lawns and in your borders, in these video guides from our masterclass If you want your garden to be filled with flowers next spring, planting bulbs in autumn is the key. But to ensure you get a dazzling display, you need to plant your bulbs well – at the correct depth and in the right type of compost. Find out how to guarantee great results with David Hurrion's masterclass – simply register for free or sign in, to view our masterclass videos.

Whether you're planting daffodils in a lawn, tulips in pots or alliums in your flowerbeds, want to force bulbs for some early flowers, these four videos will guide you through the essential steps to ensure your bulbs flower beautifully. In our four easy-to-follow videos, find out how to choose the right compost, how deep to plant, how to encourage your bulbs to flower earlier and the best tools to use when planting bulbs.

More bulb planting advice:

• Bulb types explained
• What to plant with spring bulbs
• The best bulbs for pots
• Spring bulbs to plant in autumn

Planting bulbs in borders

View Green Video on the source website

For strong and sturdy flowers that bloom year after year, planting your bulbs at the right depth is crucial. Watch as David Hurrion shows you the best way to plant bulbs in your borders, which tools to use and how to ensure bulbs are the right way up.

Lasagne planting bulbs in pots

View Green Video on the source website

If you want your pots to be bursting with spring blooms for months on end, planting several different bulbs into one container is a great way to achieve a succession of flowers. Using a technique known as lasagne planting, David Hurrion demonstrates how to combine several different bulbs in one container.

Forcing bulbs for early flowers

View Green Video on the source website

Look forward to spring flowers as early as January, by encouraging your bulbs to bloom sooner so you can enjoy them indoors. David Hurrion shows how to force spring bulbs – he explains the best types of bulbs for forcing, and what compost and containers to use.

Planting bulbs in lawns

View Green Video on the source website

Transform your lawn into a sea of colours in spring, by naturalising bulbs in the grass. David Hurrion demonstrates the best techniques for planting in grass, which bulbs to choose and how to ensure they can grow through the grass.

]]> How to grow hyacinths https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/how-to-grow-hyacinths/ Fri, 08 Sep 2023 08:50:38 GMT https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/how-to-grow-hyacinths/ All you need to know about growing and caring for hyacinths, both in spring borders and indoor displays. Hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis) are fragrant, easy-to-grow spring bulbs. They flower in a range of colours, from traditional purple and pink to white, and even mauve. Plant hyacinths at the front of garden borders for a spring display, or in pots for a fragrant splash of colour nearer the house. Hyacinths can also be forced for indoor Christmas displays.

In the above video, Monty Don explains how to force hyacinths for Christmas.

Jump to:

• Planting hyacinths
• Planting hyacinths indoors
• Caring for hyacinths
• Propagating hyacinths
• Growing hyacinths: pests and problem solving
• Where to buy hyacinths
• Best hyacinths to grow

Where to grow hyacinths

Hyacinths work well at the front of spring borders, along with other spring bulbs like grape hyacinths (muscari) and tulips. Their small size makes them ideal for spring pot displays.

In the house, grow hyacinths in a bright, airy spot, ideally with plenty of sunshine.

When to plant hyacinth bulbs

Plant hyacinth bulbs in autumn, typically from September to November. However, you can usually get away with planting hyacinths up to Christmas, but you may find they flower later than they would normally.

For Christmas hyacinths indoors, plant the bulbs around 13 weeks beforehand, around the last week of September. For guaranteed Christmas blooms, plant three batches, each at weekly intervals, so if one batch goes over there will be two more in the sidelines ready to flower on the big day.

To force hyacinths into flowering you'll need to cover them for a while. You can cover them with an old blanket, some straw or a thick newspaper, and store them in a shed or garage where they will remain cool (9ºC is ideal), for up to 10 weeks. Check them regularly and give them another light watering if the compost feels dry.

Once the shoots have grown, bring your hyacinths indoors to a bright, cool spot such as a windowsill. Take care not to put them near a heat source such as a radiator, as they can grow too quickly and topple over. Water as and when you need to, typically when the compost starts to feel dry. Once indoors, your hyacinths should take only three weeks to flower.

How to plant hyacinths

It's a good idea to wear gloves when planting hyacinth bulbs, as they can irritate the skin.

Growing outdoor hyacinths:

1. Plant the bulbs in autumn, ideally in a sunny spot in moist but well-drained soil.
2. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and dig to reduce compaction if necessary, then add organic matter such as well-rotted animal manure or compost.
3. Plant the bulbs at a depth of around 10cm, and 8cm apart.
4. Cover with soil and gently firm around them. Water the soil if it's dry.

Growing hyacinths in pots:

1. Plant hyacinths in peat-free multi-purpose compost, around 5cm apart.
2. For long-term displays use a loam-based compost such as John Innes No.2, and plant the bulbs further apart, as you would if planting them in the ground.
3. Add an annual dressing of slow-release fertiliser to help keep the display looking its best.

How to plant hyacinths indoors

Hyacinths make fantastic, fragrant Christmas displays. For the best results buy ‘prepared’ or heat-treated bulbs, which don't need to be forced for as long to encourage early flowers. You don't need to plant indoor hyacinths as deeply as you would in outdoor pots or in the ground.

Simply place the bulbs on a 5cm layer of compost, so they're close together but not touching. Fill compost around them so the top of each bulb is visible. Water lightly to moisten the compost. Cover them and keep them somewhere dark and cool for around 10 weeks until shoots appear, and then move into a light, airy spot to bring on the flowers.

How to grow hyacinths in a glass vase

You can also grow hyacinth bulbs in glass jars or vases, without any compost. Use only heat-treated bulbs for this.

1. Fill each vessel with water to just below where the bulb’s base will sit, then put the bulb in place. Make sure it doesn't touch the water, but sits just above it.
2. Place the glass in a cool (below 10°C), dark place for six weeks for roots to form.
3. Once the main green shoot is about 7-10cm tall, move the glass into full light and watch the flower gradually develop.
4. Turn the glass around by a few degrees every day to prevent the plant leaning towards the light and toppling over. Top up the water as necessary.

Where to buy hyacinths online

• Crocus
• Thompson & Morgan
• Van Meuwen
• Suttons

What to do with hyacinth bulbs after flowering

After flowering, hyacinth flowers and leaves die down back into the bulb, where nutrients are stored to aid growth the following year. Outdoor-grown hyacinths can therefore be left in the soil to reappear the following year. Remove the flowering stem to stop the plant from wasting energy on seed production. Let the foliage die down completely and feed with a potash-rich fertiliser like a tomato feed, which the bulb will use to produce next year's flowers.

Prepared hyacinth bulbs for indoor displays won't be suitable for using indoors again, but you can plant them outside and they'll flower every spring for years to come.

How to propagate hyacinths

Hyacinth bulbs grown in the ground will naturally propagate themselves by forming off-shoots. You can dig up the bulbs and remove these during autumn and winter, or let the clump bulk up naturally.

Pests and diseases

The most common problem when growing hyacinths indoors is that they flop over. This is caused by heavy flower stems and too much heat. Make sure your hyacinths grow in cool, bright conditions, away from a heat source, such as a radiator. This will ensure they grow slowly and don't topple over.

In the garden, hyacinths may not look as floriferous the second or third year after planting. While these look attractive in their own right, you may wish to encourage them to return to their original flowering form. To encourage this, make sure the foliage dies down naturally after flowering and give the bulbs a good feed with a potash-rich fertiliser. For bulbs that have been in the ground for more than a couple of years, it may be best to replace them.

Advice on buying hyacinths

• Only buy firm, healthy bulbs with no sign of mould
• Choose from a range of colours. Bear in mind that specialist nurseries may have a greater variety of cultivars to try

Where to buy hyacinths online

• Crocus
• Thompson & Morgan
• Van Meuwen
• Suttons

Best hyacinth varieties to grow

Hyacinth 'Delft Blue'

This stunning hyacinth variety gets its name from the Dutch city of Delft. The inky-blue flowers are intensely fragrant. A good variety for growing outdoors beneath shrubs and trees.

• Buy hyacinth 'Delft Blue' from Crocus
• Buy hyacinth 'Delft Blue' from J Parker's

Hyacinth 'Amethyst'

'Amethyst' has soft-pink flowers with an intense scent. It looks beautiful growing in the border with spring-flowering pulmonarias and primulas.

• Buy hyacinth 'Amethyst' from Anglia Bulb Company

Hyacinth 'Blue Tango'

'Blue Tango' is a double-flowered hyacinth related to 'Royal Navy' but with soft-blue flowers instead. The blooms release a powerful fragrance, so it's a lovely choice for growing indoors.

• Buy hyacinth 'Blue Tango' from Dutch Grown UK

Hyacinth 'Carnegie'

The white flowers of 'Carnegie' are fabulous indoors or outdoors. Muscari, chionodoxa and forget-me-nots make ideal planting partners.

• Buy hyacinth 'Carnegie' from Thompson & Morgan, Crocus and Suttons

Hyacinth 'Woodstock'

'Woodstock' is a stunning variety with intense purple flowers – a shade rarely seen in hyacinths. It looks especially good when planted with contrasting colours, like pale-yellow daffodils and white anemones. Richly scented.

• Buy hyacinth 'Woodstock' from Thompson & Morgan
• Buy hyacinth 'Woodstock' from Sarah Raven

Hyacinth 'Fondant'

This sweetly fragrant hyacinth has rose-pink flowers, borne in tight clusters. Try planting 'Fondant' with forget-me-nots and white or purple tulips to create a soft colour scheme.

• Buy hyacinth 'Fondant' from Crocus
• Buy hyacinth 'Fondant' from J Parker's

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