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Yes, they are beautiful, aren't they? And sensitive. I have two of my own, a dissectum and an osakazuki. Granted, they are young and small; but the dissectum lost all its leaves suddenly by mid-September. The Osakasuki bore it valiantly till mid-October. And the colours weren't what the glossies promise - but then I was told that the trees would need sunshine to turn their palette on and there has not been much of that luxury in Edinburgh this year. I am also a bit nervous about hardiness. Roots are protected in the earth - but then, there is a relatively small quantity of soil in a pot, not much protection there.
I have 5 acers in pots dotted around my garden and I do not give them any special attention apart from moving them out of the hot(???) midday sun.They looked stunning during the middle of October with leaves of various shades red orange and yellow.These trees are a worthwhile investment as the bare stems come in a range of russets too! enjoy....!
I have in my very tiny back yard aAcer Obtusifolium which i bought from westernburt arbruitum in 2005 as one year whip i potted it in smal blue pot and since it has grown into a bonzi style tree it is evergreen so it never changes leaf colour though it does change leaf sadly to say it realy dosen't do alot for me.
I hate it when experts talk of growing plants I struggle with as "no more demanding than other plants in pots", particularly when I adore acers. We have bought several, from very small, all of which we have lost, to fairly large plants, both green and red, though only one dissected. In Bucks, we lost leaves very early I thought this year, but none seem to thrive, though we have only started growing them 3 years ago max. I have some in pots, some in the ground, all at the back of the house, sheltered as much as possible, but facing north. I take the younger ones in pots in the garage wrapped when a bad frost is forecast, and mulch deeply around the larger ones and ones in soil in late autumn. I haven't used the No.3 compost as I thought they were un demanding soil-wise. Any advice?
I know how people feel. I have an acer doing brillianlty in a pit on shingle in my south facing garden! More the pity the same cant be said for the one I planted in the ground at the front of the house North faceing!


can anyone tell me when's the best time to trim my acer as it is getting out of control for the area it has been planted in. i don't want to move it as it is obviously in the right place
my acer OSAKAZUKI is looking very sad with filiage on only half of tree, it was planted last year in john innes 3 and is a sheltered north facing plot any advice please?
I have a beautiful Acer in a pot, it is about 4ft high, would it be possible to transfer it into the ground and when would be the best time, any advice would be gratefully accepted.
Mary, yes your tree can be transplanted into the ground. A it is a growing tree from a pot then you could do this at any time of year. However, autumn is perfect, as the soil is still warm, and this helps encourage a little root growth before the onset of winter. Thoroughly prepare the soil before planting, digging deeply to mix in plenty of compost. Firm soil well round the rootball of the tree after planting, mulch with more compost, then keep an eye on watering through spring and summer. I'd recommend watering when soil conditions are dry until your tree is well established.
We have two acers in very large pots on a sheltered patio. One acer is red-leaved and one green. The green one is growing much faster than the red. How should we protect the plants this winter and when should we do this? They were very small when they arrived as gifts this spring.
Like everyone writing here, I love acers, but I do agree that they can be tricky. Currently, I have 20 (14 different cultivars), all in containers, some now seven years old, but that's down from 24, as 4 have abruptly died in the last two years. Here are my conclusions from the last six years collecting & growing: 1. even small ones don't mind freezing weather, as long as they have some shelter (eg against a wall) and the soil doesn't freeze solid 2. they HATE wet feet, and will almost certainly die if they spend a winter sitting in a saucer 3. watering in spring at leaf-opening is perhaps the trickiest thing: not too much, and not too early 4. though 'dappled' is often mentioned, they can take lots of sunshine and will respond well in terms of growth - provided it's not all day and particularly not mid-day sun 5. to produce the deepest colour in the purpurea forms, lots of sunlight is actually essential 6. so, for reasons of 4&5, north-facing isn't ideal 7. exposure to wind, particularly in early spring, will wreck their appearance for the whole year, and may kill the plant if you're tempted to overwater to address leaf dessication 8. they love leafmould mulching - and who wouldn't :) 9. if they drop leaves (early frost / overwatering) all is not necessarily lost, even if no more re-grow until the following year, however, if leaf-loss is accompanied by white speckles on a darkened trunk, it's a goner 10. seaweed extract is reputedly (per advice @ RHSChelsea & Hampton Court) a better fertiliser than growmore or Miracle-Gro-types .. so far so good Anyway, I hope all that helps. I'm still learning as I go, but the three most important points for me so far are water, water, water
I have a Acer tree in my garden that I planted a while back I coudn't find a sutable position, so I took the centre out of a Scottish Fir that had to be cut down,planted the acer into the hole and it has grown to be a beautiful tree, admired by all that see it. I would like to share a photo of it if I could
I have a Japanese Maple which I have nurtured. A few days ago I noticed that the leaves were curling. I have fed and watered it as always. I was wondering whether it has outgrown the pot it is in. Can it be saved by re-potting it in a larger container or is it likely to be a goner? Would appreciate any advice.
I too have a medium green leaf acer purchased in early spring this year. The leaves however have very slowly started to dry and curl. Have been watering regularly but not too much I don't feel, it's in 'partial shade', in a decent sized container...and still seems to be slowly drying out. I have been advised to trim back the dead leaves quite harshly and feed more (I give it some liquid tree and shrub feeder once a week - as advised) but it wasn't a cheap tree and so don't want to kill it off...obviously! Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks !
i went to a gardening show in march and saw these acers. straight away i thought i must have 1 of them. i planted it out in my garden and all was well until we had some real bad winds and burnt all the leaves they all fell and now i have a bald acer this was in july.will it come back next year has anybody got any advice please would be appreciated thanks


At present we have a selection of 3-4ft acers which are in a north facing and in a sheltered position in the ground. We are moving house mid october while they are still in leaf and will be digging them up into pots with ericaceous & john Innes 3. Our new location will be 500yds from beach (west coast north Somerset)and open to north facing golf course - any suggestions?
i am very worried my bottle brush shrub is coming out in flower now.It looks fab but will i have no flowers next year.?
hi i have an acer tree that is planted in the ground at the moment but i need to move it as its in the way where a new shed is going would it be ok to replant it now. thanx
three of my acers are in full bloom but one has small buds that refuse to grow bigger and bloom. It is still green under the stems, so I know it is alive. Is there any thing I can do?
It's heartening to hear other people have problems with acers. I love them but in spite of best efforts manage to kill them off with great speed! Have tried pots, in ground and at various aspects around the house without success