BBC Gardeners World Magazine 2026-05-06T10:30:56.000Z https://www.gardenersworld.com/garden/balcony-garden/feed/atom BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[The best eight planters and containers for strawberries]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/the-best-containers-for-strawberries/ 2026-05-06T10:30:56.000Z 2026-05-06T10:00:37.000Z Strawberries are easy to grow and do well in containers, as long as you give them rich, fertile soil and a sunny, sheltered position. Strawberry planter pots take up very little space and can easily fit on a balcony or patio so anyone, no matter how small their space, can have a go at growing their own.
One advantage of growing strawberries in a planter is that the ripening fruit doesn't fall onto the ground, so is therefore less likely to be spattered by mud or munched by hungry slugs and snails. You can also give your plants the exact conditions they need, moving them into the sun to ripen the fruit, just when they need it.
Bear in mind that whatever the type of strawberry planter you choose, you will need to water your strawberries regularly to keep them hydrated. It's also important to feed container-grown strawberries weekly with a high potash fertiliser during the growing season, to ensure a good crop.
The best container to plant strawberries in has plenty of space for a few plants, is kept off the ground so slugs and snails can't get to the fruit, and doesn't dry out. There are advantages and disadvantages to all containers, as some will need regular watering and/or feeding, while others take up more space or don't keep the plants off the ground. Browse our list of strawberry planters, below, and find out which one works best for you.
Growing bag
Standard growing bags are cheap to buy, take up little space and you can cut planting holes cut into the plastic.
Size: 95cm x 35cm (33 litres)
Number of plants: six
Advantages: cheap, and contains slow-release food that will last for six weeks.
Things to consider: not the most attractive option, the fruit may be eaten by rats or slugs and snails.
Bespoke strawberry planter
A classically designed terracotta strawberry planter can be planted in the top as well as in pockets dotted around the side.
Size: 35cm x 35cm
Number of plants: variable, depending on design
Advantages: bespoke planters look attractive and a good-sized pot holds plenty of plants. These strawberry planters also produced the highest yield of strawberries in our trial.
Things to consider: planting pockets can be prone to drying out.
Planting trugs
These free standing ‘V’ shaped planters on legs make great use of space. Some models are made using wood, others are made using felt or sturdy woven plastic, and can be folded down for easy storage after use.
Size: variable
Number of plants: variable, depending on size of planter
Advantages: great for a small space and practical if you find bending difficult.
Things to consider: some designs don't hold water well. May be unstable in a windy spot.
Hanging basket
A hanging strawberry planter is simply a hanging basket planted up with strawberries rather than ornamental plants. This will enable you to grow strawberries off the ground, making them ideal for protecting from slugs and snails.
Size: 40cm diameter
Number of plants: six
Advantages: an interesting change to a traditional hanging basket and fruit is kept away from slugs.
Things to consider: hanging baskets need regular watering and feeding as plants are growing in a limited amount of compost
Terracotta pot
Simple terracotta pots are simple, attractive options that enable the fruits to spill over the side and are kept off the ground.
Size: variable
Number of plants: three to six
Advantages: terracotta pots are perfect for a patio, balcony or step.
Things to consider: this growing method produced the smallest crop in our trial, so plant up several planters for a bigger yield. Terracotta pots dry out more quickly than those made of plastic or other materials.
Window box
Window boxes provide a space-saving way to grow strawberries, helping to keep the fruit off the ground. Make sure you fix the box to the windowsill using brackets, so it doesn't fall off in high wind.
Size: typically 60cm x 15cm x 18cm
Number of plants: three to six
Advantages: window boxes can save on space if used on a windowsill or a balcony.
Things to consider: you may get a small crop so if you can, plant up several planters.
Vertical planting pockets
A vertical strawberry planter takes up very little space and allows you to grow fruit protected from wet soil and/or soil pests, such as slugs and snails. Cloth options are cheapest but more longer lasting versions are available.
Size: typically 1m x35cm
Number of plants: 16
Advantages: takes up very little room for the amount of plants you can grow.
Things to consider: you will need to keep the plants regularly watered.
Raised trough planter
Size: variable
Number of plants: variable
Advantages: larger trough planters provide more soil volume so strawberry roots can grow deeply and the soil won't dry out as quickly as smaller containers.
Things to consider: larger troughs can be expensive.
Frequently asked questions
How big of a planter do you need for strawberries?
Starwberries should be placed around 20cm apart, so measure the amount of growing space you have and plant accordingly, for example, a window box measuring 60cm long should comfortably fit three strawberry plants.
Are strawberry planters worth growing?
Yes! Strawberries are delicious and nutritious fruits that taste so much better when grown yourself, than anything you can buy in the shops. Planted in spring, strawberries are easy to grow, as long as you can protect them from slugs and snails, and they come back every year.
]]> BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[How to grow sweet peas]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-sweet-peas/ 2026-06-29T09:40:25.000Z 2026-04-21T09:40:11.000Z Perfect for picking, fragrant sweet peas are easy to grow and come in a range of beautiful colours. You can grow them in pots or in the ground, training them up a frame for a beautiful display. Plant sweet peas near a seating area so you can smell them as you sit and relax in the garden. Or pick some for the vase – even a small amount can fill a room with fragrance.
Jump to...
- Where to grow sweet peas
- Sowing sweet peas
- How to care for sweet peas
- How to propagate sweet peas
- Pests and diseases
- Where to buy sweet peas
- Types of sweet peas to grow
Where to grow sweet peas
Plant sweet peas in an open, sunny position in a well-drained but moisture-retentive soil. Sweet peas are well suited to growing in pots – make sure you use a good, peat-free compost with a slow-release fertiliser mixed in.
When to sow sweet peas
You can sow sweet peas anytime from October to April. Those sown in autumn will enter dormancy in winter and then start into growth again when temperatures warm up in spring. They will flower sooner than spring-sown sweet peas. For a long display, sow successionally from autumn to spring, so you have sweet peas flowering from May through to August.
How to sow sweet peas
Sweet peas are easy to grow from seed in either autumn or spring. If sowing in autumn ensure you have the room to grow them on in a frost-free place until spring.
Sweet pea seeds germinate relatively easily. But you can help activate germination by nicking the seed coat with a knife, avoiding the 'eye' area. Either sow seed in 9cm pots (3 to a pot), in root trainers or trays. Sow the seed in a good quality, peat-free compost, and place in a cold frame or greenhouse.
When to plant out sweet peas
Plant out your sweet peas from late May, once all risk of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by putting them out in the day and returning them to a frost-free place at night. Pinch out the tips of young sweet pea plants when they reach about 10cm tall, to encourage bushy growth.
You can buy sweet pea plug plants in spring. Plant them in fertile soil beneath a support, such as a wigwam made of bamboo canes. Most sweet peas will grow to about 2m in height. Water in well until they’ve put on good growth. Space sweet pea plugs or pots about 20cm apart - don't worry about separating individual plants.
Watch Monty as he plants out sweet peas and explains how to plant out shop-bought plants. Learn why it's best to plant them out only once the soil has warmed up, and the benefits of giving them a good drink after planting:
View Green Video on the source website
Where to buy sweet peas online
How to care for sweet peas
Sweet peas require training up a suitable support and can be grown as cordons. They don't need pruning but if there are wayward stems that can't be trained up a support, you may want to trim them back.
Watch David Hurrion's No Fuss video guide to tying in sweet peas:
View Green Video on the source website
Start feeding with a high potash fertiliser, such as tomato food, when flowers appear. Regular picking will encourage more flowers and prevent plants from setting seed. Water sweet peas growing in pots, and during very dry weather.
Find out how to prolong your sweet pea crops, in Monty Don's practical video. Monty explains how picking at regular intervals will keep your plants flowering right through summer and into September. You'll also have a steady supply of cut flowers for the house:
View Green Video on the source website
How to propagate sweet peas
Sweet peas are easy to propagate from seed but there's no guarantee they will come true to type – they may flower in a different colour or have a different fragrance from the variety originally grown. Some pure-bred types will bear similarities to their parent plants, while F1 types will look markedly different. Still, it's fun to save seed and see what you get.
To save sweet pea seed, leave the seed pods on the plants until they have turned brown. Collect them on a dry day, remove them from their pods and store in paper bags in a dry place until you a ready to sow them.
How to take sweet pea cuttings
Sweet peas will root from cuttings taken from young plants, and grow on to produce identical plants that flower a few weeks later than the parent plant. Simply take a 10-12cm cutting from a plant with about six pairs of leaves, just above a pair of leaves. Dip each cutting in rooting hormone and then place in water to develop roots. After about a fortnight, the rooted cuttings can be planted into peat-free, multi-purpose compost. Plant them out once established.
Pests and diseases
Young sweet pea plants are prone to slug and snail damage. Try using beer traps, copper bands, or nematodes to control them.
Sweet peas can sometimes become leggy. Here, David Hurrion explains how to save them:
View Green Video on the source website
Advice on buying sweet peas
- Bear in mind that some sweet peas have a stronger fragrance than others. If you're keen on scent, check the variety to make sure it won't disappoint.
- Buy a mix of colours to grow together – different coloured sweet peas make the best looking posies.
- Check the height and spread of your sweet pea vareity, and how much support it needs to grow. Knowing how to care for your sweet peas before they arrive will stand you in good stead for a brilliant sweet pea harvest.
Where to buy sweet peas online
Great sweet pea varieties to grow
- Lathyrus vernus ‘Alboroseus’ – a hardy perennial bush-forming sweet pea that has tiny pink and white flowers in April. Reaches 35cm in height and spread
- Lathyrus latifolius ‘White Pearl’ – perennial climber with pure-white flowers from June to late August. Reaches a height of 2m
- Lathyrus odoratus ‘Matucana’ – hardy annual that is hugely popular and fondly known as the old-fashioned sweet pea. It has scented two-tone purple flowers in summer and is ideal for picking
- Lathyrys odoratus 'Lipstick' (pictured) - a wavy-edged, Spencer type with good scent
- Lathyrus odoratus ‘Lord Nelson’ – hardy annual grown for picking. Blue flowers with a highly rated scent in summer. Plants reach 2m
- Lathyrus odoratus ‘Painted Lady’ – hardy annual grown for picking. Bi-coloured blooms of pale and dark pink. Highly scented old-fashioned type. Great for early flowers
Frequently asked questions
Why are the leaves on my sweetpeas turning yellow?
Yellowing sweet pea leaves are usually caused by over-watering. On dull days, plants don't need watering every day as this can cause root rot. Your sweet peas may be salvagable – stop watering immediately and ensure they're not sitting in any water. Then, if plants recover, start watering again, gradually, checking the compost first to make sure it's not still moist.
Help! My sweet peas are leggy!
Leggy sweet peas are usually the result of too little light. If you can, move them to a brighter spot, and turn the pots regularly so the plants don't lean too much in one direction. Once plants are 10-15cm tall, use your thumb and forefinger to pinch out the tips. This will encourage bushy growth and should stop them being leggy.
Do sweet peas trail well?
Sweet peas are climbing plants and therefore don't trail well. If you try to grow sweet peas in a hanging basket you may find that they trail a little but then stop growing, or will put on growth towards the base, rather than at the tips. Some dwarf or patio varieties of sweet pea are said to trail better than conventional types, and could be worth a try.
]]> BBC Gardeners World Magazine <![CDATA[How to grow gazanias]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-grow-gazanias/ 2025-10-20T10:34:36.000Z Gazanias, also known as treasure flowers for their jewel bright blooms, are fantastic for bringing colour to patios and sunny borders. They're grown either as annuals or as spreading, evergreen perennial plants. The daisy-type flowers need sunshine and if they don't get enough of it, they will close up. The blooms come in shades of rose, red, pink, bronze, gold and orange and are set off by the cool green foliage.
Where to grow gazanias
Native to South Africa, gazanias need a hot, sunny position in the garden. Soil should be moderately fertile and well-drained. Gazanias do well in coastal and gravel gardens and suit containers and hanging baskets.
When to plant gazanias
Annual gazanias can be sown from seed in late winter to early spring under cover. The best time to plant out gazanias is in early summer, when the danger of frost is over as gazanias are not frost hardy.
How to plant gazanias
Sow in pots or trays of seed compost. Sow on the surface of the compost and then lightly cover with either compost or vermiculite. Gazania benefit from heat to germinate, so either place in a heated propagator or in a clear plastic bag on a warm windowsill. When your gazania seedlings are big enough to handle, transplant into small pots and grow on indoors until the danger of frost is over. In late May or June, harden off plants for a week or so, moving plants outdoors during the day and bringing them undercover at night.
When planting gazanias outdoors, choose a sunny spot either in the border or a container full of multipurpose compost. Plant so that the rootball is level with the surrounding soil or compost and firm in. Water well and regularly during any dry periods, especially if gazanias are growing in pots or hanging baskets.
How to care for gazanias
Deadhead gazanias regularly to ensure a continuous supply of flowers right through the summer.
Water well after planting and check containers regularly during dry periods. Plants will need watering during dry periods but let the compost dry out between waterings to avoid root rot.
Feed container grown gazanias fortnightly with potash-rich fertiliser.
Pot-grown perennial gazanias can be overwintered indoors. Cut back plants by two thirds before bringing under cover.
How to propagate gazanias
Take basal cuttings of gazanias from late summer to autumn to create more plants. Basal cuttings are taken from the bottom of new shoots.
Take a cutting that is 10-12cm long, cutting as close to the base of the shoot is possible. Cut off any leaves that are near the base and pinch out the top.
Plant cuttings 2.5cm deep in a small pot of compost and cover with a plastic bag until the cutting has rooted.
Overwinter the cuttings undercover and plant out in early summer once the danger of frost is over.
Pests and diseases
Gazanias are generally pest and disease free when grown outdoors. Look out for aphids when brought indoors overwinter. They can also occasionally be susceptible to grey mould. To avoid this, keep the greenhouse well ventilated and cut off any dead or drying stems promptly.
Advice on buying gazanias
- Both annual and perennial varieties of gazania are available. Annuals can be grown from seed or from garden ready plants in the spring. You may get a wider range of perennial
- Always check plants for signs of damage or disease before planting perennial varieties
Where to buy gazanias
Gazania varieties to try
Gazania 'Big Kiss White Flame' - the large white and pink-striped petals are almost as big as your hand. Perfect for filling gaps in a sunny summer border, or for growing in a container.
- Buy Gazania 'Big Kiss White Flame' from Just Seeds
Gazania 'Tiger Stripes' - has bright yellow and orange-striped blooms. It's perfect for using in a tropical container display with other fiery coloured flowers, as well as in the border to fill gaps. There are also seed mixes available with striped flowers in yellow, pink, bronze and cream.
- Buy Gazania 'Tiger Stripes Mixed' from Thompson & Morgan
Gazania 'Christopher Lloyd' is a perennial variety with vibrant pink-purple flowers between May and October.
- Buy Gazania 'Christopher Lloyd' from Crocus
Frequently asked questions
Why are my gazanias dying?
The most likely cause of death for gazanias is overwatering because they thrive in dry, sunny conditions. Frost or cold weather will also kill these frost-tender plants.
Do gazanias come back every year?
Many gazanias are annuals and complete their life cycle within one year. Perennial gazanias are often treated as annuals because they are not frost hardy. However, some may survive winter outdoors in very mild regions of the UK or they can be brought indoors and overwintered undercover.
]]> BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[How to make fat balls for birds]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/diy/how-to-make-fat-cakes-for-birds/ 2026-04-15T09:03:57.000Z 2024-12-01T07:29:24.000Z As well as feasting on our garden berries, seeds and other natural food such as earthworms, caterpillars and beetles, birds seem to love energy-rich fat balls, which give them a calorie boost that may help them get through cold winter days and nights. You can buy fat balls in the shops but they're easy to make at home. Simply mix kitchen scraps such as cheese, cake crumbs and dry porridge oats with melted lard or beef suet, and set in the fridge overnight.
Which birds benefit from fat balls?
While the jury is out on whether birds actually benefit from fat balls, they are popular with blue tits, great tits and long-tailed tits, house sparrows, blackbirds, robins, woodpeckers, nuthatches and blackcaps.
Alternative ingredients
Try rehydrated raisins, currants and sultanas, small pieces of apple or pear, or grated cheese. Crushed peanuts can also be added.
Foods to avoid
Avoid using turkey fat, which doesn't set like suet and lard, and can coat birds' feathers, preventing them from being able to fly. It can also spread disease. You should also refrain from using raisins and sultanas if you have a dog, as they are poisonous to them. Bear in mind that mealworms are harmful to hedgehogs, so only add these if don't have hedgehogs visiting your garden.
Our fat balls for birds shopping list
You might already have what you need to get started on making your fat balls. If you don't, we've done the hard work for you with our handy shopping list.
- Lard | from 42p at Tesco
- Twine | from £4.97 at Amazon
- Unsalted peanuts | from £1.40 at Sainsbury’s
- Currants | from £1.90 at Sainsbury’s
- Sultanas | from £1.25 at Tesco
- Oats | from £1.30 at Sainsbury’s
- Grated cheese | from £2.65 at Tesco
How to make fat balls for birds
You will need:
- Bowl
- Lard or beef suet
- Saucepan
- Spoon
- String or twine
- Old yoghurt pots
- Unsalted peanuts
- Currants
- Sultanas
- Oats
- Breadcrumbs
- Cake crumbs
- Grated cheese
Total time: 12 hours Including overnight refrigeration time
Step 1: mix the ingredients
The best ratio for this fat ball recipe is one part fat to two parts dry mixture. Mix all your dry ingredients together in a bowl.
Step 2: add the fat
Melt some lard or suet in a pan and add the dry mix. Stir well until the fat has all been absorbed by the dry mixture, and everything sticks together.
Step 3: make the fat balls
Make a hole in the bottom of a yoghurt pot and thread through a length of twine or string, then pack the pot with your warm fat mixture, to make fat balls.
Step 4: remove the yoghurt pots
Place your fat balls in the fridge overnight to set, then cut through the pot and and peel it away. Tie a big knot at one end of the twine to secure the ball.
Step 5: hang the fat balls
Hang the fat ball in a tree or shrub and wait for the birds to come and feast.
Kate Bradbury says
Keep a store of fat cakes in your freezer, taking just one or two out at a time on cold winter days. Never put them out in summer – in very hot weather the fat may melt and could smear onto birds’ feathers, preventing them from being able to fly.
Where to place fat balls for birds
You can place fat balls anywhere you place bird food, such as from a specially designed hanging feeder to the bird table. If you have made them with string you can hang them from branches of shrubs and trees.
How to place fat balls for birds
If you added string or twine when making your fat balls, you can hang them from a branch of a tree or shrub. If you made them without string then you can add fat balls to a bespoke hanging feeder, or simply place them on your bird feeding table.
Frequently asked questions
Do fat balls for birds attract rats?
Fat balls for birds can attract rats, yes. Rats are grain eaters and are therefore attracted to bird food, but they are also generalists and may be attracted to the fatty mixture. If you want to help the birds but avoid attracting rats, focus on growing plants for birds that will help them to feed naturally.
Are fat balls healthy for birds?
As reported by the British Trust for Ornithology, recent studies have found that productivity in great tits and blue tits reduced when fed fat balls over winter, but increased in great-spotted woodpeckers. This raises concerns that fat balls might not be good for some birds, but more research is needed. What's certain is that growing berrying trees and shrubs, leaving seedheads on plants and growing caterpillar foodplants such as long grass, dandelions and nettles, is very good for birds as it helps them to feed naturally all year round. The more natural food we grow in our gardens, the more birds will be able to feed themselves.\
- The secret life of garden birds in winter
- See latest advice from the RSPB on feeding garden birds
]]> BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[How to deter grey squirrels]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/how-to-deter-grey-squirrels/ 2025-11-11T16:21:13.000Z 2024-11-14T12:30:36.000Z For some gardeners, the antics of grey squirrels are a source of entertainment, but for others squirrels are a nuisance, due to their habit of digging up bulbs and raiding bird feeders.
Introduced to the UK from the United States in the 1870s, the grey squirrel is legally classed as an invasive, non-native species and has since expanded its range, displacing our native red squirrel. The adaptability of the non-native squirrel means it's highly successful at surviving and reproducing in urban environments, which is why we encounter them so frequently.
More garden problems solved:
- Dealing with rats in the garden
- Spring bulb problems solved
- Plants resistant to honey fungus
Find out how to deal with grey squirrels in the garden, below.
Protect your plants
One of the most important things you can do if squirrels are an issue is to protect your plants. Seeds and young plants are particularly vulnerable, as squirrels will nip off soft shoots and dig up and eat seeds. Get around this by protecting young plants by sowing and growing in a greenhouse, propagator or cloche so the squirrels can't get to them.
Protect spring bulbs growing in pots by covering them with a layer of chicken wire or metal mesh. You can remove this after the bulbs start producing shoots. Tulips and crocus are particularly vulnerable. Watch the video above to discover several clever tricks for protecting your bulbs from squirrels.
In this video, Alan Titchmarsh offers his advice on how to stop squirrels digging in your pots.
View Green Video on the source website
Squirrel-proof your feeders
Nutritious bird seed mixes and peanuts are a magnet for grey squirrels. There are a number of ways to deter them, such as buying squirrel-proof bird feeders. These are usually surrounded by a metal cage that birds can get through but prevents squirrel entry, though there are many other designs, too.
Bird feeders on top of metal poles can be greased to prevent squirrels ascending them. Try smearing oil or vaseline on the metal pole to prevent them from gripping it – they'll soon give up. Remember, squirrels can leap surprising distances, so site feeders and tables away from fences and other high points that make it possible for them to reach their goal. Hanging bird feeders from washing lines or string is often not enough to stop squirrels from reaching feeders – their agility means they have little trouble walking these tightropes.
- What to feed garden birds all year round
Use fruit cages
Larger areas, particularly those used for growing tasty fruits and veg can be protected with the help of a fruit cage. Use a metal mesh to form the cage, as squirrels can nibble through plastic meshes, and non-metal meshes can act as nets that birds and other wildlife get tangled in. Fruit cages can be as big as you need them – some are waist height and others tall enough for you to stand in. You can also buy smaller cloches and tunnels to protect your crops from squirrels.
Grow food plants
Squirrels have a number of favourite food plants that, if grown, may distract their attention from your plants. Cobnuts and hazelnuts (Corylus) are a particular favourite and will provide a bounty of nuts for them to feast on. Keep in mind that they may be looking to bury or 'cache' these nuts, so they may dig up bulbs or other plants growing nearby in the process. If you do plant a hazel or other food plant for squirrels, it's best sited away from the most cultivated areas of your garden.
You could even go a step further and avoid buying bird seeds and feeds altogether, or at least in smaller amounts, by growing plants that provide seeds and berries for birds – hawthorn, holly, ivy and crab apples are some of the best.
Frighten them off
You can use a number of visual deterrents to scare off squirrels. Some gardeners have turned to artificial decoy birds of prey such as owls and falcons placed in a tree or other spot to fool squirrels. They can eventually become used to the presence of the decoy figure, so you may have to move it to a different area of the garden every so often.
- How to make a scarecrow
Watch out for breakable containers
In their quest for food, squirrels can knock over containers, which is particularly annoying if the containers are breakable and placed off the ground. Avoid any breakages by siting only the heaviest, unshakeable containers off the ground, as smaller ones are more likely to be pushed aside and broken.
]]> BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[How to create a contemporary Christmas door wreath]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/diy/how-to-create-a-contemporary-christmas-door-wreath/ 2024-12-02T19:58:46.000Z 2024-11-14T11:30:34.000Z It's easy to make a traditional Christmas door wreath using materials gathered from your garden. You can adapt our ideas to what's available in your garden or local hedgerows – simply pick whatever is looking good.
This contemporary Christmas wreath is created using birch twigs, Scots pine sprigs and the fluffy seedheads of old man's beard (Clematis vitalba). You can then leave it as is, or add some finishing touches using silver baubles or bells, to catch the eye.
Make this contemporary Christmas door wreath using birch and pine, in four easy steps.
Looking for ideas for plants to gift this Christmas? We share our favourite Christmas plants and flowers.
You Will Need
- Birch twigs (15), measuring roughly 90cm
- Scots pine sprigs and cones
- Fluffy seedheads of old man's beard (Clematis vitalba) (Five)
- Silver heart or bauble decorations
- Garden twine
Total time: 30 minutes
Step 1
Use the birch stems to make a circle roughly 30cm in diameter (tie the ends together if necessary). Weave more birch twigs into the loop to thicken up the sides and create the wreath frame.
Step 2
Push sprigs of pine into the wreath frame (including any cones you have). Push the sprigs in at an angle to create a neat effect.
Step 3
Add a few seedheads of old man's beard, binding the stalks into the birch to lock them firmly in place.
Step 4
Add some silver hearts to bring the wreath to life - any silver decoration with hooks that will latch onto the birch will work well. Now simply hang your wreath in a suitable location.
]]> BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[How to plant an acer in a pot]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-plant-an-acer-in-a-pot/ 2025-02-12T14:57:04.000Z 2024-09-13T11:00:32.000Z Japanese maples, or acers, are ideal for pots as they're slow growing and make stunning focal points.
As well as being easy to look after, they'll reward you with feathery plumage all summer that slowly changes colour as the weather turns colder. Look forward to a blaze of fiery reds, russet browns, oranges and butter yellows.
Best soil for Japanese maple in container
Japanese maples need nutrient-rich soil that's moist but well-drained. They tend to do best in slightly ericaceous soil but, for pots, a loam-based soil like John Innes number 2 or 3 is needed for soil structure and moisture retention, so a 50:50 mix of John Innes and ericaceous compost is ideal.
My potted acer keeps dying - why?
In this Quick Tips video, Kate Bradbury, BBC Gardeners' World Magazine, explains how to provide the best growing conditions for potted acers, and how to keep them looking their best:
View Green Video on the source website
Follow our step-by-step guide to planting an acer in a pot, below.
Where to buy acers
You Will Need
- Acer
- Large pot
- Compost, equal-part mix of ericaceous compost and John Innes No.3
- Decorative mulch
Total time: 20 minutes
Step 1
Half-fill the pot with compost, then remove the acer from its container and position it in the middle of the pot.
Step 2
Fill in around the plant with fresh compost and firm it in gently, making sure it's planted at the same depth as it was in its original container.
Step 3
Top the compost with a layer of decorative mulch, such as pebbles or crushed shells – this will help to avoid water loss in summer. Water well.
]]> BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[Keep summer bedding plants flowering]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/keep-your-summer-bedding-flowering/ 2024-08-26T20:27:25.000Z 2024-08-26T17:00:41.000Z As temperatures rise and summer sets in, it pays to give your container plants, and especially bedding plants, a little time and care so that they keep on flowering and looking their best, right into autumn. The secret, as Alan Titchmarsh explains above, is to water, feed and deadhead them regularly, and choose the right location - here's how.
Step 1
Water pots daily, particularly bedding plants, and twice daily in the heat of summer - morning and evening. Water with half-strength feed twice a week to ensure plants have all the nutrients they need.
Step 2
Pick off dead flowerheads regularly - every day if possible. If you leave them in place they can start setting seed and this triggers an end to flowering, so removing them will encourage the plant to flower again. Find out more about deadheading.
More summer bedding plant advice
- Three pots for summer colour
- How to care for bedding plants
- Flowerbed ideas for your garden
]]> BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[Potato types explained]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/potato-types-explained/ 2025-06-11T17:27:52.000Z 2024-08-08T06:02:36.000Z There are three main types of potato to grow, named according to when you plant and harvest them: first earlies, second earlies and maincrop. First early or 'new' potatoes are so-called because they are the earliest to crop, in June and July. Second earlies (also called 'new' potatoes) are hot on their heels, taking a few more weeks to mature. They are ready from July.
These two types are expensive in the shops and taste better when just harvested, so many people grow these. They also take up less room in the veg patch, and are less prone to potato blight, as they are generally harvested before the disease has taken hold. There are also some more unusual seed potato varieties that have blue, purple or red flesh – if you're looking for something different, try the maincrop varieties 'Heidi Red', which has red skin and flesh, and makes a good salad potato, or 'Blue Annelise', which has blue flesh.
Maincrop potatoes take the longest to mature and are harvested from late August to October. They are suitable for baking, roasting and mashing, and can be stored for a few months. Floury potato varieties are good for baking and mashing, whereas waxy potato varieties make good additions to a salad. Growing potatoes is easy – plant one seed potato, and you dig up lots of potatoes a few months later.
According to Kew Gardens, there are now over 5000 varieties of potato. We've listed some of the most popular early and maincrop potato varieties to grow in the UK, below.
Potato varieties to grow
‘Red Duke of York’
Potato type: First early
When to plant: March
When to harvest: June and July
A large new potato with red skin and yellow flesh that has a floury texture. This heritage variety is a versatile all rounder that can be baked, mashed or roasted.
‘Lady Christl’
Potato type: First early
When to plant: March
When to harvest: June and July
‘Lady Christl’ is a high-yielding waxy variety with medium, oval potatoes. It has good disease resistance.
‘Orla’
Potato type: First early
When to plant: March
When to harvest: June and July
This versatile tuber is a first early but it can be left in the ground to mature as second early or maincrop. When harvested early it has waxy, pale yellow flesh. When left to grow bigger the flesh becomes more floury. It's popular
for its blight resistance.
‘Rocket’
Potato type: First early
When to plant: March
When to harvest: June and July
This Scottish first early potato is a heavy cropping variety with waxy, white flesh. It has good disease resistance, including to golden eelworm.
'Charlotte'
Potato type: Second early
When to plant: March (with frost protection)
When to harvest: July and August
'Charlotte' is a good all rounder that makes a delicious salad potato. It's a Scottish variety with yellow waxy flesh and stores well.
'Maris Peer'
Potato type: Second early
When to plant: March (with frost protection)
When to harvest: July and August
This small variety has light skin and firm creamy flesh and is good for boiling as it doesn't fall apart easily. It has good resistance to scab and can also be planted in August for a Christmas harvest.
'Ratte'
Potato type: Second early
When to plant: March (with frost protection)
When to harvest: July and August
'Ratte' is a French variety that is used as a second early and maincrop potato, with crops of white skinned, waxy yellow fleshed potatoes that have a chestnut-like flavour. Although yields are lower than other varieties, this variety is prized for its flavour and popular in restaurants.
'Pink Fir Apple'
Potato type: maincrop
When to plant: mid- to late April
When to harvest: August to October
This old variety dates back to 1850 and has an AGM from the RHS. It's a versatile waxy potato with a nutty flavour that is just as good boiled as it is in a salad. 'Pink Fir Apple' is a late cropping potato and can be harvested early to mid October.
'Desiree'
Potato type: maincrop
When to plant: mid to late April
When to harvest: July to September
'Desiree' is an early maincrop with harvests from July to September. It's a red-skinned variety with yellow waxy flesh that's good for roasting but makes an excellent baked potato. This heavy cropper has good drought resistance and resistance to blight and scab.
'Cara'
Potato type: maincrop
When to plant: mid to late April
When to harvest: August to October
This high-yielding potato has white and pink skin and floury flesh that makes it perfect for chips and baked potatoes. It has good drought and disease resistance.
'Maris Piper'
Potato type: maincrop
When to plant: mid to late April
When to harvest: August to October
Easily found in the supermarket, this family favourite is also easy to grow, with creamy white flesh that makes it an excellent choice for chips. It's a versatile potato that is also delicious roasted, baked or mashed and stores well after harvest.
'King Edward'
Potato type: maincrop
When to plant: mid to late April
When to harvest: August to October
'King Edward' has been grown in the UK since 1902 and is now one of the most recognisable potatoes sold in supermarkets. It's a good all rounder and particularly good for roast potatoes due to its creamy white flesh. Easy to grow, it also has good resistance to a variety of diseases including scab.
'Sarpo Mira'
Potato type: maincrop
When to plant: mid to late April
When to harvest: August to October
This floury, pink-skinned variety produces large potatoes that are good for baking, chips and roasting. It has high, natural resistance to blight and it's drought resistant too.
Growing potatoes in a small space
Potatoes can take up a lot of room on the veg plot but they grow brilliantly in large containers or even large bags. Find out how to grow potatoes in a pot.
]]> BBC Gardeners' World Magazine <![CDATA[23 summer container ideas for your garden]]> https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/best-summer-containers/ 2026-02-09T15:34:30.000Z 2024-06-14T20:45:39.000Z Summer wouldn't be complete without some beautiful containers. Whatever look you're going for, we've done the hard work for you, picking a mix of plants for sun and shade, in a range of different colours and planting styles.
Our selection mixes traditional bedding plants such as garvinea with perennials such as black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), achillea and penstemon, with grasses and foliage plants for extra interest. Take inspiration from our selection, below, and watch these video guides, showing how to plant up a pot for summer colour and how to water and care for it.
View Green Video on the source website
More summer gardening content:
- No Fuss Guide: feeding plants in summer
- Garden guide to summer watering
Just peachy
Place a shorter container display on a table, where you can better admire its blooms.
We used:
- Salvia 'Salmia Orange'
- Pelargonium 'Mrs Pollock'
- Fuchsia 'Coachman'
- Musa acuminata 'Dwarf Cavendish'
- Calibrachoa 'Mini Rosebud Romantic Peachy'
- Aeonium Velour
Delightful dahlias
This scented container comes into its own on balmy summer evenings.
We used:
- Nicotiana 'Lime Green'
- Dahlia 'Twyning's After Eight'
- Isotoma axillaris 'Gemini Blue'
- Glandularia 'Samira Blue'
Bowl of beauties
This collection of sun-lovers will be a magnet for pollinating insects.
We used:
- Senecio polyodon
- Ammi majus
- Origanum laevigatum 'Herrenhausen'
- Erodium variabile 'Bishop’s Form'
Hot colours
This fiery pot is perfect for a sunny spot.
We used:
- Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora 'Emily McKenzie'
- Penstemon 'Red Riding Hood'
- Rudbeckia fulgida 'City Garden'
- Anemanthele lessoniana
- Libertia ixioides ‘Goldfinger’
Bedding container
This bright pot will thrive in a sunny position. The plants may not be fully hardy, so will need some protection over winter.
- Garvinea (hardy gerbera)
- Begonia sutherlandii
- Carex comans
- Angelonia angustifolia
Meadow planting
This meadow-inspired pot will do best in a sunny spot.
- Centranthus ruber, known as red valerian
- Achillea 'Terracotta'
- Salvia nemorosa 'Ostfriesland'
- Hordeum jubatum
- Linaria purpurea
- Geum 'Mrs J Bradshaw'
Wildlife-friendly
This pot will attract bees and other pollinators.
- Achillea millefolium 'Red Velvet'
- Malva sylvestris 'Brave Heart'
- Penstemon 'Pershore Pink Necklace'
- Salvia nemorosa 'Caradonna'
- Scabiosa atropurpurea 'Black Cat'
Shady container
This planting combination will thrive in a shady area.
- Acer palmatum 'Katsura'
- Tiarella 'Iron Butterfly'
- Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Alba' (Dicentra)
- Ivy (Hedera helix)
Perfumed purples
It wouldn't be summer without some fragrance to fill the air.
- Nicotiana 'Perfume Deep Purple'
- Mixed Solenostemon (coleus)
- Rudbeckia hirta 'Denver Daisy'
Light and dark
Use a black container to contrast with the paler tones of these plants.
- Bidens ferulifolia
- Solenostemon ‘Lime Wizard’
- Tulbaghia violacea ‘Silver Lace’
- Euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’
Shades of pink
Perfect for a sunny spot, this container is packed with shades of pink, purple and green.
- Canna 'Phasion'
- Cosmos 'Casanova Red'
- Nicotiana alata
- Solenostemon 'Lime Wizard'
- Ipomoea 'Black Tone'
- Begonia 'Glowing Embers'
- Petunia 'Bright Lights'
- Celosia caracas
Pink and white
This floaty combination will last for months on end.
- Gaura 'Whirling Butterflies'
- Miscanthus 'Morning Light'
- Diascia 'Juliet Pink'
- Verbena 'Aztec Silver Magic'
- Heucherella 'Tapestry'
Move on up
Extend the interest vertically with climbing plants that flower along their length.
- Tropaeolum peregrinum
- Nemesia 'Easter Bonnet'
Keep it simple
Planted in a rustic metal container, this bountiful lavender exudes south of France charm.
- Lavender 'Hidcote'
Fresh and formal
Planted in a wooden tub, this clipped box cone is ideal where formal containers are required.
- Buxus sempervirens (box)
- Veronica 'Shirley Blue'
- Ajuga 'Chocolate Chip'
Sun-baked spots
Planted with sun-loving succulents, this pot is best sited in those hot spots of your garden.
- Hylotelephium 'Pinky'
- Sedum 'Blue Carpet'
- Saxifraga 'Doctor Ramsey'
- Rhodanthemum 'African Eyes'
- Sedum 'Cape Blanco'
Brilliant for bees
Bees are especially attracted to purple and pink flowers, and this pot is brimming with them.
- Scabiosa 'Blue Diamond'
- Lavender 'Felice'
- Salvia 'Sensation Deep Rose'
Dreamy daisies
This cheery pot is filled with long-flowering daisies, complemented by glaucous brassica leaves.
- Osteospermum 'Glistening White'
- Brachyscome 'Bravo Mix'
- Kohlrabi 'Lanro'
Nicotiana profusion
Nicotianas are brilliant performers. This pared back pairing combines a red-brown and a green-flowered variety.
- Nicotiana 'Tinkerbell'
- Nicotiana 'Lime Green'
Versatile veg
A mix of zinnias are a cheering sight in this pot, but they're supported by beautiful veg and herbs that hide bare soil.
- Zinnia elegans 'Sprite Mix'
- Portulaca 'Calypso'
- Kohlrabi 'F1 Ballot'
Cornfield charm
This refreshingly blue container is planted up with masses of cornflowers, direct-sown in early spring.
- Centaurea cyanus
- Centaurea cyanus 'Black Ball'
Cottage garden
This three-plant blend will lend a relaxed, cottage garden feel to wherever you site it.
- Geranium 'Wargrave Pink'
- Argyranthemum frutescens
- Salvia nemerosa 'Ostfriesland'
Solo sagina
You don't always need to pack a container with different to plants to make an impression. This robust pearlwort will positively sparkle all by itself.
- Sagina subulata
Keep your container displays looking vibrant for longer, watch this video guide to creating a container for late summer colour.
View Green Video on the source website
Keep the display going
Many of the plants shown here are perennials. Cut back after flowering and they should reappear next year. Alternatively, plant in the garden when the display is over.
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