Start a new thread

21 to 40 of 41 replies

Weed fairy

I moved here 2 years ago and front garden was a decent sized square of lawn with no plants at all. I started digging up the lawn and making a spiral border that ultimately will fill the whole space with shingle paths following the spiral shape. Soon after I began I noticed a crop of fungi in a very regular pattern across the lawn. Honey fungus. I was therefore not surprised to find when digging huge fat roots of trees that had been cut down and the roots left. This has resulted in bent forks and a sore back plus the worry about the honey fungus affecting the plants I am putting in. Any thoughts on what plants would be at risk? 

As I understand it herbaceous perennials will not,be affected. Woody shrubs of many kinds are susceptible to honey fungus. Can you take out the roots completely? Evergreen perennials like hellebores are ok too I think so you could still make an attractive border. I have planted an area where a large viburnum and. Eleagnus were cut down. I intended just planting for colour, etc in this area when I cut these shrubs and then to remove them the following autumn. However, I have cannas, echinaceas, dahlias, hellebores, pinks, Heucheras, clematis, etc., as well as various bulbs growing well and the stumps, 3 years later, breaking up fast to the extent that they are not now noticeable or problematic

 hello i moved into my house about 3 year ago and have got a large leylandii hedge at the bottom of a south facing garden it has a big hole mid way what plants could i plant to fill the hole please help




 So what on earth am I going to do here?



I had to smile - firstly, it was not our choice to remove these trees but they were upsetting out neighbour ........ its cost us a great deal of money which we couldn't really afford.  We are both 75.

I want to plant a few shrubs to give us some privacy from next door as they overlook our bedrooms.  But the soil is going to be rubbish, even though we've had the stumps ground up and spread around.

The first thing is to sow some lawn seeds, but it'll be difficult to mow right up to the dry stone wall, and we are not really capable of strimming all the way down to the bottom.  We do have a 'ride-on' mower.

What shrubs will grow in these conditions?



Are the piled up trunks staying? Just about anything will grow if you nourish the soil and give it a good water. 

Acid or alkaline or neutral?


Its fairly neutral soil - quite stoney - but with all these ground up leylandii I suspect its pretty acid now - I suppose I should get a test kit.  We've got rid of the piled up trunks, but everywhere is covered in chippings now of course.  We do have access to FYM but its bulky and artificial fertiliser is expensive ..... no worries about water here (Cumbria) although this year has been exceptionally dry. 

I wonder if the best thing would be to just get a lawn established over winter - and then take stock in the Spring to see if we can make life a bit easier in the maintenance department.




Well, if you want some shrubs to block the neighbours' view you should think about them before making a lawn. I am of advancing years myself so I know that you will want something that doesn't hang around looking coy and trying to decide if it should think about growing. Cherry laurels are fast growing, evergreen, don't mind shade, don't mind stones or lousy soil and are cheap.

And now is a good time to get a lawn made. Turf would be quick.

we are in the process of removing a well established leylandi hedge which runs all around our garden luckily there is a fence behind it. All of the comments here have been really useful, so thank you all.

Help! We have moved in to house on a corner plot. All round the corner - some 30mts - there is a 2.5-3.0mt high leylandii which has not had attention in years. It does give privacy to floor to ceiling windows in our lounge, but it is over powering and I hate it!

what can I do after getting rid, grinding out the stumps and then what? No idea what would grow to a height that would give privacy which we can keep to a reasonable height. 

All ideas greatly received.

We cut down our 45 tree leylandi hedge due to cypress afid damage.  It was about 20 years old.  We left stumps cut off at ground level they are about 18 inches apart.  We planted Photina red robin inbetween. And now have a flourishing red shiney hedge.  If you buy from a trade nursery it keeps the cost down.  The roots and poor quality grounds don't seem to have affected their development. Hope this helps.

 I,ve just taken the foliage of a leylandi hedge and am left with a row of trunks approx 9 ft high in a good straight line. Could I use these to support a wood boarding fence built to purpose. How long will the trunks last?


I took down a big leylandii hedge last year, 3m high 1.5m width by cutting them down at soil level.  The soil was rubbish so i double dug all of it with manure grit and screened topsoil. The existing roots i cut with lopers close to the stumps and pulled. It began to be quite fun.  I have been told the stumps of leylandi will rot in about 5years. I planted quite a few rose climbers which have thrived , however I did have to spend the rest of the year with a watering can to help them establish.  Hope this helps


David, you need to start a new thread. Cathy has just answered the original question. 



Weemaw, you could try viburnum as they are evergreen, photinia, solanum (I got given one of these as a stick and now its 8 feet high and 8 feet wide). If you don't mind no leaves in winter you could go for cotinus, cornus or sambuccus.


I've used stump killer on a beech hedge, once all the branches were cut off and the trunks cut to ground level, which worked, but they were no more than 3-4 inches in diameter.


2 years on. The hedge has been vibrant red since Christmas thickening out.  We are keeping it to 6ft so easy to manage - lots of compliments.

Hi, another stump question. I just took out a big Leylandia hedge (6 trees some 30 feet high, in a small garden) but the stumps couldn't be removed as there is no access to the back garden except through a narrow part of the house or through the neighbours' garden, and there's a limit to how much I'm prepared to inconvenience the neighbours, I've only been here a year. So, I have the six stumps, at ground level, and a largish bed mostly covered with leaf-fall. I'd like to plant a native hedge and use the rest of the bed for veg. I shall mulch it energetically but are the stumps going to prevent this plan working? And if so is there any solution which doesn't involve bulky machinery, Schwarzenegger muscles or vicious chemicals?

Here goes....novice gardener here ..  We recently moved and have a row of 7 no.s - 15ft high half dead Leylandia trees at the foot of our sloped garden on the eastern boundary. We want to remove them and replace with a Laurel hedge. The problem is they run along the boundary to just over halfway across on the right and it stops where a small round paved area exists to the left (which is too close to the fence to allow for planting). Our hedge runs 3/4 of the way across which looks out of balance.

How will a new hedge look If it doesn't run the whole way across the rear boundary. Any ideas on how to make this boundary look better? Our soil is neutral to slightly acidic. Rhododendrons, Red Robin, heather and fuschia seem to grow well in our neighbourhood.

What is the best way to remove these trees? Should we leave them as stumps and plant around them? It's March now and we found some 5-6 ft high Laurels on sale but is it too late to plant them? We want a hedge fast. Should we wait until November when the soil is warmer? The little paved area needs something behind it to cover the fence and smell fragrant. We have large fir trees in our neighbours garden beyond the Leylandia that are 50 ft high and block the eastern sun from our garden. They hide the view of a lot of play equipment. We are concerned about them possibly getting blown down and hitting our house as well. Anyone out there who has had to deal with getting a neighbour to top their trees? Will topped fir trees look bad? Too many questions, sorry!

Last edited: 04 March 2017 16:59:37


Mockingbird, start a new thread, this one is old - that way more people will see it and be able to reply