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Wait until its first flush of flowers is over, about July. Then prune it back to 6" below whatever height you want, always pruning to an outward-facing bud. You will inevitably lose some flowers, but it will soon produce more.
Karen, cut back the branches that are dying back to a healthy out growing bud or take it right back to the base. At the same time take out any ingrowing thin branches to give the plant air in the centre.This will not cause any problems with the flowering and it is better to get rid of any disease that could cause further trouble.
Kevin Eastment wrote (see)
I Have got 6 rose plnts comming (bear root) I want to plant them in pots what do i buy to plant them (compost or somthing eles)
John Innes No2 compost, Karen.
Thanks for the feedback Frank. David, unfortunately I'm not in the UK, don't know how to find John Innes of any variety.
Garden centre, DIY store,
When do I prune a climbing rose that is growing over a porch. Is it best to wait until the Spring
Yes, they're normally pruned in spring.
I have to say that I prune true climbing roses in the late autumn, removing older growth and tying in new long branches before the winter winds start blowing them about and loosening the roots which can cause suckering. If you've not done it I'd pick the next fine day. This will show you how to do it http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?pid=189
1. Wait Until Your Roses Are DormantThe climate where the following pictures were taken is very moderate, so roses rarely go into a full dormancy or completely lose their leaves. These roses have, however, been through several hard frosts, are in a slow-growth mode, and ready to be pruned back.
2. Clean All Debris Away From PlantsClear away grass and leaves, anything that might harbor insects and diseases. 3. Remove Dead, Old Dieased WoodStart by cutting out all dead wood and all canes that are diseased or damaged. Any canes that are old and striated (showing deep furrows) also need to be removed.Open the bush up by removing all branches that cross through the center. Cut out very thin canes, and remove any branches that cross or rub together.Keep the nice green healthy canes.
4. Don't Keep Green Canes On Old WoodHere is an example of new canes growing out of an old, striated cane. Remove any cane like this. Keep only new green canes that are growing out of the bud union. 5. Make Flush CutsWhen removing an entire cane, make the cut as flush as you can to the bud union. If you leave a stub, it can die back into the bud union allowing entry for disease and pests.You may need to use a tree saw to get the final flush cut. As the center starts to open up, remove any leaves or debris to keep insects and diseases at a minimum.
6. Cut To a Leaf BudMake all cuts above a leaf bud that points towards the outside of the plant.Make all cuts clean. Try not to make any ragged cuts, as this will allow insects and disease into the plant and open it up to infection.Always prune to a healthy bud. Make sure your cut is at a 45 degree angle going away from the bud. 7. Cut Just Above The BudAlways cut just above the bud. You don't want to cut it too close or too far away. If you cut it too closely, the bud is damaged, if you cut too far away, you can have die back and possible disease.8. Cut Surface Should be White Not Brown If it is brown, cut back further until the plant tissue is white and healthy.
9. Remove Any SuckersThese are long, slender, flexible canes that originate from below the bud union. If you find a sucker pull it down and off the plant. If you just cut it off, any undeveloped growth eyes left at the sucker's base will just produce more suckers in the future
10. Go For Vase ShapeYour goal is to have an opened-centered bush when you are done and your plant has a "Vase Shape." That vase shape might be very wide or narrow, depending on the plant. Both final plant pictures below show correctly pruned rose bushes.Sometimes a perfect Vase Shape cannot be achieved because of what needs to be removed, but keep in mind that the vase shape is what you are after and do the best you can. You should now have only healthy stems, with an open center.
11. Final Plant HeightModerate Prune:Cut back the stems that are left to one third their length, this is considered a moderate prune. A moderate prune is shown here, and it what is recommended for nearly all established bush and standard roses in regular soil. 12. Final Plant HeightHard Prune:You can prune it back even harder so that only 3 or 4 buds are left from the base of the plant, but that is recommended only for newly-planted bush roses, or is sometimes used for established roses grown only for the production of exhibition flowers. Hard pruning can rejuvenate old and neglected roses, but you are better off with moderate pruning.
13. To FinishYou should paint all cuts with a sealing compound because the plant is not actively growing and can't defend itself as well against diseases and pests. If you want to make sure your plants stay healthy, painting the cuts takes just a few minutes.
14. You're DoneIn the spring when the plants begin to break dormancy, give them some fertilizer to help them get ready to flower.Keeping your roses pruned properly every year will ensure healthy plants, and big, beautiful, fragrant flowers, which is why you have roses to begin with!
Lets visit our fresh roses at http://floristhut.com
It's advertising, but still good advice. As we're hardly likely to buy roses from Kuala Lumpur, ignore the advertising and take the advice!