How to grow amaryllis

Watering

The best way to water amaryllis is to drench the compost and then wait for it to completely dry out before drenching again. Water only when the compost feels dry to the touch, or when the pot feels light when you pick it up. Remove the pot from its outer, decorative pot, and add water until it comes out of the pot's drainage holes at the bottom. If the compost is really dry, you may need to sit the pot in water for a few minutes to fully rehydrate it, but then remove it and sit the pot on a draining board for 10 minutes so the water fully drains, before returning it to its growing place. Don't allow the pot to sit in water after it has drained, or allow water to sit on the top of the bulb, as this could lead to rot.

Water more often when your amaryllis is in growth, especially when in flower, and then reduce watering as it starts to die back. When your amaryllis is dormant, wait for two weeks after the compost has dried out, before watering again. Then increase watering frequency again as the bulb starts to grow.

Light

The more light the better with amaryllis. Flowering times may be reduced in darker areas, so a sunny windowsill that doesn't have an operating radiator directly below it, is perfect.

Compost and fertilisers

Like succulents, amaryllis store a lot of water in the stem, so use a peat-free, cactus compost, as heavier composts hold too much water, which could lead to root rot.

Feed every fourth water with a liquid house plant feed, all year round. When growth resumes in its second year, switch to using a high potash feed to promote flowering. Continue using this until the flower drops.

Temperature and humidity

Average room temperatures and humidity are fine as long as you keep your amaryllis away from an operating radiator, which can make the immediate environment too hot and dry. After flowering, move your amaryllis to a cooler spot, such as a partially sunny windowsill, or outside, where temperatures stay between 12ºC and 19℃. This will encourage the bulb to enter dormancy, which will improve the likelihood of flowers the following Christmas.

Pruning

Pruning is important to keep your amaryllis looking its best. With a clean pair of scissors, you can:

• Prune any leaves that have snapped by cutting where the snap is located to improve your plant's appearance
• Prune any yellow or brown leaves from the base
• Prune the base of the flower stalk once its final bloom has faded or when the stalk becomes floppy. Ensure you cut only around 5cm above the tip of the bulb to avoid accidentally cutting off the foliage or bulb

When the flowers start to fade, cut off the flower stalk but keep the leaves intact to continue gathering energy for the bulb. Leave these in place for at least three months.

Staking

Amaryllis will need staking only if the foliage starts to flop. Use a small, 30cm stake (no thicker than a chopstick) and place it vertically into the soil, right beside the bulb. With string or twine, wrap the base of each leaf to the stake so when you tie a knot, the leaves will rest on the string and remain upright.

How to repot amaryllis

As long as its pot has drainage holes, your amaryllis will do well in the same pot for at least four years. After four years, repot in spring or summer, when the plant is dormant. Choose a pot that's only a few centimetres wider than the original, and use a free-draining cactus compost.

1. Remove the rootball from the original pot and loosen a few root strands so they can grow into the bigger pot easily.
2. Pour around 2.5cm of the fresh compost into the new pot.
3. Place the rootball on top of the compost, and add or remove compost to ensure it's at the right depth – aim to have the top 20 per cent of the bulb above the compost line.
4. Fill around the rootball with more compost, then water thoroughly and allow to drain.

How to propagate amaryllis

Propagating amaryllis isn't often done by home gardeners, but that needn't stop you trying. It's relatively easy to do, but you must wait several years for the plant to mature. In this time period, the bulb will produce smaller bulbs (called bulbils) that are carbon copies of the mother plant, albeit much smaller.

You will know when bulbils have started to form as you will see a small cluster of leaves developing at the side of the larger bulb. You will be able to separate the bulbil from the mother bulb when you come to repot your amaryllis, when the plant is dormant.

1. Water the soil a few hours before transplanting and while the plant is not currently flowering. You can, however, do this in any season. To separate, remove its pot and simply scrape away the soil between the mother bulb and its offset with your hands.
2. Then, with a clean pair of scissors, cut the join between the two bulbs, and gently tease out the bulbil's attached roots.
3. Plant the bulb into a 10cm pot with peat-free, cactus compost, and replace the mother bulb back into its original pot, adding more compost if there are any new gaps from the separation. Water both bulbs thoroughly and allow to drain.
4. Treat the bulbil as you would a mature amaryllis. It may take up to three years to flower.

Common issues

Red leaves are the result of your amaryllis receiving too much light. Move it to a new location, with less direct sunlight
Snapped leaves may just be a case of damage or slight dehydration. Simply prune these off, 2.5cm above the bulb's tip, to improve appearance. Increase your watering frequency if necessary
Aphids may appear on the flowers if your bulb blooms in spring time. They're unlikely to cause damage but it's best to remove them in case they move to other house plants, where they could cause more problems
A rotten bulb indicates over-watering. Sadly nothing can be done to save it at this point.
A softened bulb could be either over-watering or under-watering, depending on your watering habits. Take the plant out of its pot and search the sides of the bulb for any brown, rotten areas. Discard the plant if you find a rotten puncture wound on the bulb. If no damaged areas are found, replace the bulb back into its original pot and ensure you allow the compost to fully dry out between thorough waterings. This usually means watering roughly every fortnight.
Droopy stems can be due to too much warmth, which encourages the stem to grow too quickly. Use a cane to support them and grow on a cooler windowsill the following year.

Toxicity

Unfortunately, amaryllis are toxic to both humans and pets when ingested, especially the bulbs. This may cause vomiting, diarrhoea and tremors. Consult a doctor or vet if you, your children or pets have ingested amaryllis bulbs.

Varieties to grow

Amaryllis 'Royal Velvet'

As the name suggests, the flowers of 'Royal Velvet' are a deep scarlet, with a velvety texture. The flower spike, or scape, will reach around 50cm in height.

• Buy amaryllis 'Royal Velvet' from Sarah Raven

Amaryllis 'Green Goddess'

'Green Goddess' is a smaller, more dainty variety, with flowers that resemble lilies. The centre of the flowers is flushed with apple green, fading to pure white. 'Green Goddess' will grow to 45cm in height.

Amaryllis 'Chico'

The spidery flowers of 'Chico' make it one of the most distinctive amaryllis varieties. With a scape growing to 50cm, the green and fuchsia-coloured blooms are unmissable.

• Buy amaryllis 'Chico' from You Tulip

Amaryllis 'Mont Blanc'

Reaching a statuesque 60cm in height, 'Mont Blanc' has large pure white blooms, with a lovely lime-green centre.

• Buy amaryllis 'Mont Blanc' from Farmer Gracy

Amaryllis 'Tosca'

The veined scarlet and white petals give 'Tosca' a particularly festive air. Expect it to grow to a towering 60cm in height.

• Buy amaryllis 'Tosca' from Sarah Raven

Amaryllis 'Fairytale'

Though not growing as tall as other amaryllis (around 40cm), 'Fairytale' is nonetheless stunning. The red and white veined petals are particularly striking.

Amaryllis 'Emerald'

Amaryllis 'Emerald' is all about the detail. The white-green petals are delicately frilled and have pretty red margins. Will reach 45cm in height.

• Buy amaryllis 'Emerald' from J Parker's

Amaryllis 'Clown'

Amaryllis 'Clown' has marvellous blooms with white and red stripes, which are held atop tall stems. Expect this variety to reach 60cm in height.

• Buy amaryllis 'Clown' from J Parker's

Hippeastrum papilio

Unlike other amaryllis, the eye-catching red and white veined flowers of H. papilio are held on several stems, rather than one. Will reach 50cm in height.

• Buy Hippeastrum papilio from Crocus

Amaryllis 'Red Lion'

Growing to an impressive 60cm, 'Red Lion' is surely one of the most impressive amaryllis varieties, with large, deep red trumpets.

• Buy Amaryllis 'Red Lion' from J Parker's

Amaryllis 'Amputo'

A much-coveted variety for its gentle, sweet scent, 'Amputo' has handsome white flowers, similar to lilies. Can reach 45-60cm.

Amaryllis 'Apple Blossom'

So called because of its pink-tinged petals, 'Apple Blossom' is one of the more delicate amaryllis varieties. Will grow to 40-60cm in height.

• Buy Amaryllis 'Apple Blossom' from J Parker's

Amaryllis 'Sumatra'

Like 'Chico', 'Sumatra' is a dazzling example of the cybister amaryllis varieties, which are characterised by their slender petals. This variety will grow to 40cm.

• Buy Amaryllis 'Sumatra' from Crocus

Amaryllis 'Alfresco'

A superb double variety, 'Alfresco' has pure white flowers with an apple-green throat, and will reach 60cm in height.

• Buy Amaryllis 'Alfresco' from Sarah Raven

Amaryllis 'Exotic Star'

The lovely raspberry-coloured veins of 'Exotic Star' are not to be missed. Expect the scape to reach 50-60cm in height.

• Buy Amaryllis 'Exotic Star' from You Tulip

Amaryllis 'Black Pearl'

The deep maroon coloured flowers of 'Black Pearl' are unmistakeable, and have a silky look when light catches them. Grows to 60cm in height.

• Buy Amaryllis 'Black Pearl' from Crocus

Frequently asked questions

What do you do with amaryllis after it blooms?

In terms of fully cutting off its foliage from April onwards, this is entirely up to you. Some prefer to keep the leaves on so the bulb can receive the energy produced by photosynthesis.

How do I keep an amaryllis for next year?

Keeping amaryllis for over 20 years is actually very simple. Once the flowers have dropped off, simply relocate the plant to a cooler windowsill in the house (around 12–17℃) and allow the leaves to grow for another three months. Then, prune each leaf off at its base before watering less frequently (once every three weeks) until October. You can bring the amaryllis back into a more used (or warmer) room a few days before the buds begin to open.