Forget the beaches, the real magic of the Seychelles is hidden in its forests

Legend has it that the Garden of Eden wasn’t a myth, but a real place hidden in the Indian Ocean. Standing under the prehistoric canopy of the Vallée de Mai in the Seychelles, it’s easy to see why General Charles Gordon was convinced he’d found it. While most tourists fly here for its world-famous beaches, I was drawn by the unique wildlife, plant life and gardens found inland.

A forest from another age

My journey began on Praslin Island at the UNESCO-listed Vallée de Mai forest. It felt magical, with the afternoon light filtering through giant fronds in dusty, golden shafts and the scent of damp earth filling the air. The only sounds were visitor footsteps and the occasional whistle of the native black parrots.

All six of the Seychelles’ indigenous palms grow here, including the huge coco-de-mer. These ‘coconuts of the sea’ were once a maritime mystery; sailors found the massive seeds floating at sea and imagined they grew in underwater forests. In reality, they are the heaviest seeds on Earth, endemic to just two islands.

Because the trees are dioecious, the species has separate plants that are either male or female and so rely on a tiny cast of characters for pollination. Alongside bees, bright-green geckos skitter along trunks carrying pollen from male catkins to heavy female fruits. It was fascinating seeing them hard at work.

Island of giants

The following day, I traded forest for water. After snorkelling in reefs teeming with tropical fish, I waded onto Curieuse Island. This uninhabited national park is the domain of the Aldabra giant tortoise. Roaming freely through the scrub, there is something grounding about crouching next to a giant that might have been alive since the 19th century.

I spent the rest of the morning wandering boardwalks through mangroves, spotting baby sicklefin lemon sharks in the shallow waters below, before retreating to the shade for a barbecue.

Life on two wheels

If Praslin Island’s defining characteristic is the forest and Curieuse the wildlife, then La Digue is all about tranquillity. The island is blissfully car-free – you simply grab a bicycle and go. I pedalled through L’Union Estate, an old coconut and vanilla plantation, until the path spilled out onto one of the Seychelles’ most recognisable beaches, Anse Source d’Argent. Here, iconic granite boulders, worn smooth by millennia, frame the turquoise water beautifully.

Protecting paradise

I finished my trip on the largest island of Mahé, where I tasted sushi made from fresh island fruit at the organic Vallée des Fruits farm, before learning about the conservation efforts at the Biodiversity Centre, which runs education programmes that teach schoolchildren about the importance of the Seychelles’ unique plant life and encourage islanders to grow endemic species in their own gardens. They have a plant nursery on site where local people can come and buy native plants.

Gardens and markets

In the capital, Victoria, I retreated to the grand botanical gardens – vast but peaceful, with giant palms lining the avenue. Towards the back is a tropical forest area mimicking the one where I started my trip. Here, I became fixated on hundreds of giant fruit bats hanging from branches, fighting over jackfruit.

The garden also dedicates a section to endemic plants, giving me a final, concentrated examination of the archipelago’s biodiversity. Make sure to go for a wander around the city centre, with it's quaint streets and bustling markets before you leave.

Seychelles provides a wonderful escape from everyday life in Britain, but don’t spend all your time at the beach or you’ll miss out on the islands’ incredible nature inland. That’s something you can’t find anywhere else.

What do you need to know to go to the Seychelles?

Seychelles enjoys a tropical climate all year round and there are rarely extremes of weather. Between October and May the seas are calmer and better for water sports and diving.

Most flights from London take 10-14 hours and include a layover.

Where did I stay?

Island hopping is the name of the game here. Thanks to the following hotels on each island, where I stayed:

• Praslin island: the quiet Villa de Mer hotel, with only 12 rooms, which means the staff know every guest.
• La Digue island: the Casa de Leela, with it's homely self-catering style apartments set in a charming garden setting.
• Mahé island: the tranquil Laïla Resort on the south of the island. The ideal place to relax after a day out exploring.
• Mahé island: the Savoy Seychelles Resort & Spa, where I didn't have a chance to get a massage, but did make use of the sauna and steam room facilities.

More travel inspiration:

• Nature highlights from a Nevada road trip
• Best places to visit in St. Lucia
• Top gardens to visit in Portland