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Pruning in October with Mark Lane

Mark Lane pruning catmint

Pruning in October with Mark Lane

BBC Gardeners' World Magazine

Published: Friday, 22 September 2023 at 11:36 am

As winter approaches, it’s time to cut back dying plants to prevent pests and diseases, says Mark Lane

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With summer a fading memory, now is the time to expect the first frosts, cobwebs and autumn colour. And with a regular pruning regime, you not only keep your garden tidy, but you also create dramatic effects with silhouettes and seedheads – and remember that brown is a colour to be enjoyed, too.

Right now, you need to focus on keeping your borders looking great for autumn and winter by getting them into shape. Collapsed, soggy or dying-back foliage should be removed to prevent the build-up of slugs, snails and diseases. Plants such as campanula, helenium and sidalcea will be looking their worst, but pruning back this month will result in a healthy plant that will produce colourful flowers next year. Keep in mind, though, that lavender and rosemary will not do well if they are pruned now.

Resist the urge to prune deciduous trees and hardy shrubs, leaving them until midwinter or very early spring, when the plants are still dormant. This will discourage tender new growth from appearing during cold spells, weakening the plant. Hardy yew is one exception, though. Now is the perfect time to give yew hedges or topiary a final prune before winter, so they keep their neat shape.

Plants to prune now:

Autumn is the perfect time to prune several groups of plants to keep them healthy. Make a few judicious snips now and they will perform better next year.

Hardy geraniums

Prune geraniums back to the plant’s crown

Prune back to the plant’s crown. If there is no sign of disease, add geraniums to your compost heap, otherwise, burn or dispose of trimmings.

Virginia creeper

Cut back Virginia creeper stems that are encroaching on windows, doorways, gutters and roofs

Cut back stems of Virginia creeper that are encroaching on windows, doorways, gutters and roofs. Continue this until the end of December.

Dahlias

After the first frosts, prune back dahlia stems and lift tubers for storing

After the first frosts, and once the plant has blackened, prune back the stems, then lift and store dahlia tubers somewhere frost-free and dry.

8 things you need to know about growing dahlias

Buddleia

Cut buddleia back by about a third to prevent wind rock

Cut buddleia back by about a third to prevent wind rock. Come spring, prune the plant hard to encourage new flowering shoots.

Avoid pruning:

Eryngiums provide striking winter features if left unprune

Eryngiums provide striking winter features if left unpruned

Dipsacus, eryngiums and martagon lilies: Leave teasel, eryngium and Lilium martagon to create an architectural feature during winter, as well as to feed the birds, in particular finches
Spring-flowering shrubs and trees: such as magnolia and flowering currant - if you prune these now you'll remove next year's blooms
Ornamental grasses: such as Miscanthus sinensis ‘Kleine Silberspinne’ and Calamagrostis acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ will be fading to buff and silver. Leave these to catch the evening sun
Hydrangeas: faded hydrangea flowers should be left unpruned to protect the new buds forming below from winter frosts and to add texture to the garden

Step-by-step: Cutting back herbaceous perennials

Herbaceous perennials like this nepeta (catmint) will be dying back for winter, but you can give them a helping hand by pruning back dying, tatty-looking foliage and leaves or stems that have signs of mildew, fungus, wilt or leaf spot. Faded stems and leaves can eventually get heavy when wet and rot the plant’s crown, so cut soggy stems right to the ground. This is the perfect time for this job as pruning too early could remove any late flowers. Also, tackling this job now allows you to weed and mulch the soil that was previously covered with soggy foliage.

Step 1

Look for plants that have collapsed or are fading quickly

Pruning can sometimes be daunting and a little overwhelming. Look for plants that have collapsed or are fading quickly. Reach inside the plants to see where the spent flowers, stems and leaves meet the base or crown of the plant.

Step 2

Long-handled shears and secateurs make quick work of removing detritus

Long-handled shears and secateurs make quick work of removing detritus. Use a large bucket or trug and place all clippings into it, to eventually go onto your compost heap. This keeps your working area clean and tidy.

Step 3

Trimming back right to the base and removing all debris provides good air circulation

Trimming back right to the base and removing all debris provides good air circulation, helping to keep diseases at bay. Pests also have no place to hide. Removing faded stems will protect the plant from autumn winds.

Also prune this way:

Alchemilla mollis seedheads – cut back and remove to control self-seeding
Perennials such as brunnera and geum should be pruned to reveal the size of the plant, which can then be lifted and divided in late autumn
Silver-leaved plants such as Artemisia ludoviciana are particularly prone to rotting in wet autumn weather, so check them often to see if they need a trim

How to keep shears in good working order Shears can make a fast job of cutting back messy perennials, as long as the stems are not too tough. Keep them sharp, so you can make clean and easy cuts, and clean, to avoid diseases spreading. A simple solution of two teaspoons of bleach in a bucket of warm water is enough. Use a clean cloth each time, then simply wipe the blades (wearing gloves) and dry them off.

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