Camellias are popular evergreen shrubs that produce a beautiful display of flowers from late winter to early spring, when little else is in flower. There are thousands of varieties to choose from, with white, pink or red flowers, which can either be single or double. Their shiny, evergreen leaves look great all year round.


In their native range of south Asia, camellias are woodland plants, so do best in shade. This makes them useful for growing in shady parts of the garden or as part of a woodland border.

Camellias are acid-loving plants, which means they need to grow in acidic soil, ideally with a pH of around 6 to 6.5. If you're unsure whether you have acid soil or not, you can do a soil test. Alternatively, simply look at neighbouring gardens and see which plants are growing. If rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias are abundant, you will almost certainly have acidic soil. If they are not growing then you are likely to have alkaline soil and won't be able to grow camellias in the ground. However some camellia varieties can be grown in pots of ericaceous compost.

How to grow camellias

Grow camellias in moist but well-drained, acidic soil or ericaceous compost, in a sheltered spot in partial shade.

Where to grow camellias

Camellia plant
Camellia plant in flower

Camellias do best in dappled shade or full shade. An area that gets morning shade is best as direct sun in the morning can dry out the developing flower buds too quickly. Choose a sheltered spot, as an exposed, windy position is likely to cause leaf and flower damage.

How to plant camellias

If growing in the ground, plant camellias in autumn, when the soil is still warm and the roots have plenty of time to establish before winter. If growing in pots you can plant from spring to autumn, just bear in mind that you will need to water the pot regularly in summer.

In this video, Monty Don demonstrates how to plant a camellia in neutral soil:

How to grow a camellia in a pot

Planting a camellia in a container
Planting a camellia in a container

Camellias grow well in pots and this is a good option if you don’t have acidic soil in your garden. Use a soil-based, peat-free ericaceous compost mix and a pot that is at least 30cm wide.

Before you start, water the camellia thoroughly (ideally with rainwater) in its original pot. Ensure the roots are fully saturated and allow to drain. Move your intended pot to its final position before planting it up as it may become heavy.

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Make sure there are plenty of holes in the base of your pot and add crocks to improve drainage. Fill your pot about two-thirds full with ericaceous compost, leaving enough room for your plant.

Make a hollow in the compost big enough for your camellia’s rootball and place it in the pot.

Position the plant centrally in the pot with the top of its rootball about 5cm below the rim. Fill in around the roots with compost and push down with your fingers. Water well and allow to drain.

Camellias are slow-growing plants so don’t need to be repotted often, but it’s best to do this before the plant gets visibly pot bound. Repot in spring, into fresh compost.

How to care for camellias

Frost-damaged camellia flower buds
Frost damaged camellia flower buds

You can deadhead camellia flowers as they begin to turn brown to prevent the plant looking unsightly. However, deadheading is not necessary to promote new flowers.

Water camellias with rainwater, if possible. This is particularly important in hard water areas with high calcium deposits in the tap water, which can affect the acidity of the soil. If you have no option, use tap water – it's important to keep camellias well watered in summer, between July and September, as this is when next year's flower buds are formed.

If you're growing camellias in the right conditions, they don’t need feeding unless they're showing signs of ill-health. Plants will perk up quickly after a feed. Don't feed too much in summer – this can cause bud drop.Good quality bark mulch in spring will give the plant a boost and act as a soil conditioner.

Camellias don't need pruning to promote flowering. However, some varieties can grow up to 5m in height if left unpruned. So if your space is limited, prune for height and shape as soon as possible after flowering.

Although camellias were at first considered tender plants, and were traditionally grown in greenhouses, they're in fact quite hardy. However, frost and snow can damage flower buds and flowers so it's best to cover plants with fleece according to the weather forecast, or, if your camellia is in a pot, move it into a greenhouse.

How to propagate camellias

Taking camellia cuttings
Taking camellia cuttings

Camellias can be propagated by taking semi-ripe cuttings, hardwood cuttings, layering and grafting. Although they do sometimes produce seed, they're hard to germinate, take years to mature and won’t breed true.

Pests and diseases

Chlorotic camellia leaves due to alkaline soil
Yellow, chlorotic leaves, due to alkaline soil

Brown flower buds can be caused by frost damage or snow, especially if it is followed by morning sun. If a cold spell is forecast, or you live in a cold part of the country, you could cover your plant with fleece. If your plant is in an east-facing spot, you could consider moving it to a part of the garden that does not get morning sun.

If flowers do not open, it could also be due to frost damage. Direct sun in the morning can also dry out the developing flower buds too quickly, drying the outer petals and preventing the flowers from opening.

Brown patches on petals are caused by camellia flower blight, Coborinia camelliae. Although the effects are similar to frost damage, with blight, the whole flower is affected, with flecks on the petals, and they will drop early. There's no chemical solution so remove any affected blooms as quickly as possible and clear away any dead leaves and debris from the base of the plant. Bin or burn them to prevent further contamination – do not add to the compost heap.

Yellowing leaves are caused by lime-induced chlorosis. It's due to high alkalinity in the soil and means the plant isn't getting enough iron. If your camellia is in a pot, repot into fresh ericaceous compost and give the plant a feed with ericaceous plant food. If it's in the ground, add a layer of leaf mould, composted bracken or composted pine needles and treat with a product that contains chelated iron or sequestered iron.

Sooty mould on the surface of the leaves is called by leaf scale insects that stick like limpets to the undersides of the leaves. Use a soft soap solution, formulated specifically for plants, to wipe off the insects and the mould.

Watch our Quick Tips video with Kevin Smith, who explains why camellia leaves can become sticky:

A lack of flowers in spring can be caused by poor growing conditions the previous summer, when the flower buds are formed. Drought can prevent bud formation, so be sure to water well in summer. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser and mulch to keep the roots moist. Here, Alan Titchmarsh explains why your camellia might not be flowering and what you can do to encourage flowers:

Advice on buying camellias

  • Buying a camellia in flower lets you choose exactly the colour you want
  • Make sure you have the right soil conditions before buying – take a soil pH test if you are unsure
  • Always check plant for signs of damage or disease before buying

Where to buy camellias 

  • Primrose
  • Suttons
  • Thompson & Morgan
  • Camellia varieties to grow

    Camellia 'Yuletide'
    Camellia 'Yuletide'
    • Camellia 'Water Lily' – an upright growing camellia, with formal double, deep pink flowers with a rich fragrance from February through to April
    • Camellia 'Cornish Snow' RHS AGM – a compact camellia, bearing masses of small, fragrant, single white flowers with bright yellow stamens from February through to April
    • Camellia x williamsii 'Contribution' – has semi-double pink flowers with bright yellow stamens. The x williamsii hybrids are the toughest and easiest camellias to grow
    • Camellia sasanqua 'Crimson King' RHS AGM – a fast-growing dense upright shrub with large single bright red fragrant blooms, with masses of bright yellow stamens. Sasanqua varieties are among the earliest flowering camellias, with first blooms appearing in October
    • Camellia ‘Quintessence’ – a compact, slow-growing variety that makes a good choice for smaller sheltered gardens. The white single flowers are also sweetly scented