How to care for succulents

Watering

Water your succulent every four weeks between April and October, and every six weeks for the rest of the year, and reduce watering further, to once every two months, if the temperature falls below 12ºC. Remember that the colder the location, the less frequently you'll need to rehydrate your succulents. Only rehydrate your succulent once its compost becomes fully dry for at least a week. Generally speaking, this will be once every four weeks.

As mentioned above, you must let the compost become fully dry between waterings. Use the phrase 'drenches between droughts' to guide your watering regime, as your succulents will do best when fully drenched before being left for at least a month for the compost to dry out. When watering, pour the water through the soil until the compost is completely saturated and the water drips from the pot's drainage holes below – if the water drains through the pot immediately that means the compost is too dry to absorb the water and you may need to sit it in the water for a few minutes to hydrate fully, before allowing it to drain. Once the compost is completely saturated, place the pot on a drying rack to drain for 10 minutes before moving it back to its usual spot.

Light and location

Grow succulents in the sunniest parts of your home, such as a south-facing windowsill. Succulents need at least three hours of sunshine per day – anything darker than an east- or west-facing windowsill is not appropriate for a succulent.

The only succulent you can grow away from the windowsill are mistletoe cacti (Rhipsalis) and Christmas cacti.

Compost and fertilisers

Use only use a peat-free cactus and succulent compost, which is free draining and has the right balance of nutrients for succulent plants.

Feed succulents every three months, ideally using a liquid cactus fertiliser. Make sure the compost is moist at the time of application.

Temperature and humidity

You may be surprised to learn that succulents do well in low temperatures, down to 8ºC. In winter, if you have single glazing and temperatures on your windowsill are likely to dip below 8ºC, move your succulents away from the window to protect them. Use a thermometer to guide you if necessary.

Average room humidity is perfect for succulents, but avoid more humid environments such as bathrooms.

Pruning

You'll notice the oldest leaves (those closest to the soil) may yellow or crisp over from time to time. This is entirely normal and is typical as succulents mature. It's a good idea to keep any yellowing leaves on the plant until they naturally drop off, as the plant may be taking some of the nutrients from that leaf and using them to promote new growth.

Some succulents can be pruned. Those with branching stems can be pruned down to your desired size, to promote branching at the lower end of the stem, creating a bushier habit. You can use either a clean pair of scissors or secateurs for this job.

Staking

When an upright-growing succulent has become old and lopsided, simply use a thin chopstick-sized cane to prop the succulent up. For those growing trailing succulents like sedum or Christmas cacti, allow them to freely hang over the pot to create a beautiful pendulous display.

How to repot a succulent

Succulents thrive when potbound for several years, so repot yours only every four to five years. Only use a cactus and succulent compost, as other house plant composts will retain too much moisture that could cause root rot in the future.

1. Water your succulent 12 hours before you repot it to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. Choose a pot that’s only slightly wider than the original, then add around 3cm of fresh, peat-free cactus and succulent compost into the newer, empty pot.
3. Remove the plant from its original pot and sit its rootball on top of the compost in the new container. Check you're happy with the level it sits at in the pot and then fill any remaining gaps with further compost and tap the side of the pot several times to remove any air pockets. Never compact the compost down with your fingers as it may stop the compost draining efficiently.
4. Finally, give the plant a thorough soak until the water drains out of the drainage holes. Leave it to drain for 10 minutes before moving it back to its original location to minimise shock.

How to propagate a succulent

There are three ways to propagate a succulent: leaf cuttings, stem cuttings and basal ('pup') division. They are all relatively easy, with the exception of the latter that could disturb the plant as you'll be handling its rootball.

Leaf cuttings

This is a fun, easy way to propagate succulents like sedum, crassula (jade plants), and more.

1. Choose the largest leaf from the plant and bend the leaf downwards until you hear the snap. You must ensure the leaf doesn't tear or have a damaged node as this will stop any chance of it rooting.
2. Place the leaf on a dry tissue for two days in a sunless windowsill to callous over its wound. Avoid direct sunlight during this two-day period as this may cause stress.
3. Fill a 7cm pot three-quarters with peat-free, cactus and succulent compost.
4. Vertically place the bottom quarter of the leaf into the soil, at a slight angle of 45º.
5. Water the soil and place it in a bright, sunless window to root. Only rehydrate the soil once it becomes fully dry, which unusually will be every three weeks. Roots will emerge first within a few weeks, followed by new leaf production soon after.

Stem cuttings

This method of propagation is great for old leggy specimens that need to be pruned back, or for succulents that have a serious case of root rot and the base of the plant cannot be saved. What's more, if a branch has been accidentally snapped off, you can easily reroot it and grown on as a separate plant. However, in some cases, the branch may be a little too large, so you should consider dividing the stem up to make smaller cuttings.

1. Prune the top quarter of the stem using a clean pair of scissors. Ensure the stem is mature enough though, so avoid doing this propagation for now if the stem will be shorter than 5cm.
2. Sit the stem cutting on a dry tissue for around two days to callous its wound. A sunless windowsill would be the perfect location to keep it for this period.
3. Fill a 10cm pot with 'cactus and succulent' labelled potting mix and use your finger to push a hole three-quarters deep. Place the cutting's bottom into the hole and push the soil fill the remaining gaps.
4. Only water the soil once it fully dries out and ensure your cutting is kept in a windowsill. Roots will form within around six to eight weeks, with new leaf production taking a few weeks further.

Basal offset division

Often referred to as 'pups', many succulents including Haworthia, Gasteria and Aloe will produce offsets from the base of the stem, slightly beneath the soil. Consider this method of propagation only once the offset is around half the size of the mother plant.

1. Water your succulent around 12 hours before separation to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. Take the plant out of its pot and begin to locate the pups using your fingers – you may have to scrape off the top layer of compost to locate them.
3. Once you have found an offset, pull it downwards until you hear a 'snap'. Gently loosen the soil if you can't gently pull the offset's root system out on the first time, or use a sharp knife if this is proving difficult.
4. Then, gently tease the offset's roots from the main rootball and pot it individually into a 7-10cm pot, filled with peat-free cactus and succulent compost. Avoid using a terracotta pot while the cutting is young, as terracotta can dry out the soil too much.
5. Keep the parent plant in its original pot for another year, filling any gaps created by the division with fresh compost, and continue to care for it in the same way as you did before. The offsets can be cared for in the same way as the parent and placed in a similar location, too.

Common issues

Yellowing or crispy older leaves is normal for succulents and usually is a sign of good health. If, however, the succulents stem has become soft and the soil is moist all of the time, take it out of the pot and scan the rootball's outer edge for signs of rot (brown, deflated roots that can easily be pulled off from the soil with no resistance).

Red or purple leaves is also normal behaviour and indicates that the plant is blocking the sunlight's intense rays. Unless the foliage remains wilted/wrinkled all of the time (even a few days after being watered), don't relocate the plant. Keep it in the same location and it will slowly get used to this location.

Mealybugs are a common pest that can attack all succulents. Although plants can take two years to show signs of ill health from mealybugs, it's best to remove them as soon as you notice them. Remove them by hand and wipe the foliage down regularly to ensure they have been completely eradicated. For large infestations, consider using a predatory wasp such as Anagyrus vladimiri, which works best at temperatures around 25ºC.

Toxicity

Most succulents are non-toxic when eaten, but some plants to avoid are Kalanchoe (flaming Katie) and Euphorbia (African milk tree) which can cause an upset stomach if ingested.

Succulent varieties to grow

Ledebouria socialis – a unique succulent with leaves that have a purple underside and spotted green top. Height x Spread: 35cm x 35cm

• Buy Ledebouria socialis from Piccolo Plants Nursery

Haworthia fasciata – an excellent, low maintenance rosette-shaped succulent with zebra-patterned stripes on its leaves. Varieties include 'Big Band'. H x S: 15cm x 15cm

• Buy Haworthia 'Big Band' from Crocus

Sedum morganianum – a slow-growing trailing succulent that can be propagated via stem and leaf cuttings. Boasts a glaucous appearance that'll contrast well with other trailing plants nearby. H x S: 80cm x the width of its pot

• Buy Sedum morganianum from Crocus

Sedum × rubrotinctum – the jelly bean succulent is a fun, easy-care plant that will produce small pearl shaped leaves that often sport a red, yellow or green tone. H x S: 30cm x 20cm

• Buy Sedum × rubrotinctum from houseplant.co.uk

Frequently asked questions

Can succulent plants live outside?

Most succulents can tolerate temperatures down to around 8ºC, but some, such as sempervivums and agaves, can easily tolerate freezing conditions.

What to do when succulent leaves fall off?

The gradual loss of its older leaves is normal and should cause worry. If, however, the leaves are dropping off much quicker than usual, we recommend having a look at the root system for signs of root rot.