Hollyhocks (Alcea) have long been associated with cottage gardens. Perfect for the back of a border, they grow up to 2m in height. Each stem bears masses of open, bee-friendly flowers measuring up to 10cm in diameter, from July to September. Hollyhocks are biennial or short-lived perennials. In the first year they put on root and foliage growth and in the second they flower, set seed and then die.

Advertisement

Double hollyhocks are stunning but they don’t have the appeal that single varieties have to pollinating bees. If creating a bee-friendly garden stick to single varieties, where you can see the central part of the flowers.

How to grow hollyhocks

Grow hollyhocks in moist but well-drained, light soil in a sunny spot. Taller varieties may need staking. Let seeds develop after flowering before removing and composting the plants, so you can sow seeds of the following year's hollyhocks without paying a penny for them.


Where to plant hollyhocks

How to grow hollyhocks - hollyhocks growing at the back of a border
Pink hollyhocks growing at the back of a border

Hollyhocks do best in a south- or west-facing position in moist but well-drained soil. Chalky, sandy or loamy soils are ideal. Plant them at the back of a border as they can reach heights of 2m or more.

Hollyhocks aren't suitable for growing in pots.

More like this

How to plant hollyhocks

Prepare the soil by removing weeds and digging in plenty of well-rotted organic matter. Plant hollyhocks in the ground, firming gently, and water well. Tie them to a stake such as a bamboo cane, in exposed or windy gardens.

Hollyhocks self-seed readily – these seedling can be lifted carefully and replanted in your desired position, to flower the following year.


Caring for hollyhocks

How to grow hollyhocks - caring for hollyhocks
Pink hollyhock flowers

Hollyhocks need very little care. Stake flowering plants and water in dry weather. After flowering cut the flower spike off. If you want your hollyhocks to self seed, only do this once the seeds have dispersed.

Discover three Golden Rules of growing hollyhocks, in this video featuring hollyhock expert, Mary Baker:


How to propagate hollyhocks

Sowing hollyhock seeds
Sowing hollyhock seeds

The easiest way to propagate hollyhocks is from seed, sown in spring. Prepare a seed tray with peat-free seed compost and water well, allowing the water to drain. The seeds are large enough to space evenly on the compost surface. Place them about 1.5cm apart from the next. Sieve seed compost over the seeds. Ideally place the tray in a propagator set at about 15-20°C.

In about 2 weeks you should see signs of germination. It can take a further five weeks before plants are ready to prick out. The plants should be ready to plant out in June but won’t flower until the following year.

Alternatively, sow seed in summer, and plant out in autumn. These plants should flower the following year.

If you are using seeds that you have collected yourself from hollyhocks that have finished flowering, seeds from perennial varieties are best sown straight away, as they need a period of cold to help them germinate. Seeds saved from biennial types are best stored somewhere cool and dry, and sown the following year.

It is possible to propagate hollyhocks from cuttings. These need to be basal cuttings (cuttings from the base of the plant). In spring, at the base of the plant look for a young stem growing from the ground. Clear soil away and use a sharp knife to cut the stem away from the roots, as near to the base of the plant as possible. Remove any low growing leaves and pop into a prepared pot of cuttings compost, around 2.5cm deep – cuttings are most likely to take root if placed near the edge of the pot. Water the pot thoroughly and allow to drain, and then cover with a clear plastic bag to boost humidity around the cuttings. Roots should develop within a few weeks – remove the plastic bag and start watering the cuttings when you see signs of new growth.

You can also propagate hollyhocks by division, but bear in mind that hollyhocks have a taproot so division isn't as easy as it is with plants that have fibrous roots. Do this in spring, cutting back any foliage to about 10cm, and then dig the whole root out of the ground. Use a sharp knife to cut the taproot into sections, insuring each piece has at least one stem, and plenty of root. Replant immediately and water thoroughly, then continue watering for another week or until you see signs of new growth.


Growing hollyhocks: problem solving

Hollyhock rust
Hollyhock rust on the underside of a leaf

Hollyhocks can be susceptible to hollyhock rust. This is easy to spot as the leaves and stems will be covered in orange-brown spots. In extreme cases the plant will die. The first signs of the problem are visible on the undersides of the leaves.

Remove infected leaves as soon as you spot them and burn them. In autumn clear away and destroy any fallen leaves as the fungus will overwinter in the soil.

Advice on buying hollyhocks

  • Hollyhocks come in a range of colours and heights, so check you have the right plant for your intended growing spot, before buying
  • Hollyhocks are prone to rust: check plants thoroughly before buying or planting

Where to buy hollyhocks online


Hollyhock varieties to grow

Alcea 'Black Knight'
Alcea 'Black Knight'

Alcea ‘Rosea Nigra’ – deep maroon flowers from June to September. Reaches a height of 2m

Alcea ‘Chater’s Double Icicle’ – a pure white double with flowers that resemble puff palls. Flowers from July to September. Reaches a height of 1.5m

Alcea ‘Black Knight’ – nearly black, single flowers anytime from June to September. Reaches a height of 2m

Alcea rosea ‘Crème de Cassis’ – purple semi-double flowers with a white rim. Flowers from June to September. Height 2m

Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement